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Subaru Forester (up to 2005)
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Although the hand cranked blenders look interesting....
Steve
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Ken
Too bad there's no REI Forester - prolly more Subaru's in Seattle than all of Maine.
Steve
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What size you have upgraded to? How much it costed you?
I have a '00 Forester S.
I am annoyed with the slight body roll also.
I was thinking upgrade the rear sway bar and maybe adding front and rear tower strut.
To others living in SF Bay area. Any shops you have experience with upgrading the sway bars?
Thanks.
-Kin.
Well just 2 weeks ago I traded in my Kia, don't ask
Back to the original problem, it has now been two weeks and I have to bring the Subaru to the dealership because it is having problems starting. As it is a manual tranny you have to push the clutch ALL the way to the floor before it will start (and I do mean ALL the way). Sometimes it starts fine, other times it doesn't, about a 50/50 mix. While cranking, it will just stop cranking and go dead.. there is kind of an electronic "blip" like something is electronically stopping the car from starting. OK fine, I would be happy to chalk that up to the clutch sensor needing adjustment... but more than once, after I wait about 10 seconds and turn the key again, it will start but it hangs and almost doesn't start right as the engine starts to take hold and starts running... you know, the same thing that happens to old beat up Buick's or something, you hear them "start" to start and you have to keep cranking for a couple of extra seconds before it finally just starts running... I'm not quite sure how to put it better than that.. In any case, that worries me.. especially since I forked over a large sum of money for this vehicle. It has almost left me stranded a couple of times. My fear is since it doesn't happen every time I will take it to the dealership and they'll fire it up once or twice (and of course it will work), and they'll say No Problem Found.. I know all of you have been there before. Any ideas as to what this could be?? I'm guessing it's the starter motor or the clutch sensor but I'm no mechanic
In addition to that, when I crank the engine, the entire car shimmies from side to side... the Loyale didn't do that, maybe it's because the 2.5 litre is that much more powerful..??
tidester
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I upgraded from the stock 13mm to the 18mm rear bar. I purchased mine from a Subaru dealer through the mail for around $85 or so. Unfortuantely, they're out of business now, but you can find it from any dealer. Here's one independent shop I found on the internet that sells them:
http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/parts1.htm
You can use any rear sway bar designed for the 98-01 Impreza RS. There are fatter ones out there, but 18mm seems to be a good balance for the Forester. It really firms up the rear without overdoing it.
Here's some good reading on sway bars:
http://www.spdusa.com/newpage4.htm
Also, here are some installation steps. It's super easy.
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=098397e96d0667165d8ef77dd83a3ebe&threadid=34
Ken
Another question. Now I know my rear sway bar is 13mm. What about my front sway bar, is it 19mm?
I am very careful on minimizing my turns.
With that, will you prefer a 18mm or a 20mm, assuming the front is 19mm and not changed.
As it turned neutral steering, does it means safer for me to put in the strut tower bars for lateral chassis movements?
-Kin.
Your english is great! I look forward to more post from you.
Patti
Thanks!
Patti
Thanks and thanks for the bike rack information!
Patti
2nd - sorry for the problem. I'd strongly suggest that you call us to start a case. Please ask the Representative to review the file with me. On a side note, I had that problem (with the clutch pedal) once before. I hadn't noticed that my floor mat was pushed up near the pedal and was interfering. I doubt that is causing your problem but I thought it was worth sharing.
Once we get involved, I promise we will do our best to address the situation quickly. I'm not in the office today (jury duty), but I'll check for your case tomorrow.
Thanks!
Patti
What might be better in the stock 205X70-15 range.
I have not had any experience with Bridgestone and am in need of someone's experience.
Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.
Gene
Indeed, I did not notice that the gas cap might be the problem. The last time the gas was filled by my wife, not me. I have checked it (clicked for several times) and let's see what will happen. If the light won't go off, the dealer said probably I would like to go back to have the electrical signals "reset" by using computers or something.
The forester Asia version seems exactly the same as the US ones in spec. I just wonder why it is not like other cars that the gas door can be locked. I can open the gas door whenever I want. It's weird and makes me feel uneasy.
Thanks for all your support.
best wishes
Chuanfang
-Frank P.
-mike
-Dave
Haven't posted here in a while but work and personal issues have taken immediate precedent. I do try to read the boards regularly, though.
I second Chuanfang and Frank P. I always feel a little uneasy about not being able to restrict access to my Forester's fuel filler - especially when I go into urban areas or, for that matter, suburban and rural areas where there may be bored, mailicious teenagers.
What I'd like to know is whether a commercially available locking gas cap would trigger the notorious CEL. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Ed
There's something else that will trigger the CEL, as I found out early on with my '01 Forester S. If you refuel with the engine running, it can cause the light to go on. (It will reset itself after the next fillup.) Needless to say, I no longer make that particular mistake.
Ed,
I seem to recall someone on these boards having posted some good results (ie: no CEL) with an aftermarket locking gas cap, but that was about a year ago.
Len
Gene: I thought the Duelers were pretty good in snow. I swapped to a more quiet passenger car tire, and they are not nearly as good. They lasted 28k miles for me. I did not think they were good in rain, nor did they handle in the dry very well. But in snow, for me, they were fine.
-juice
I'm not sure about the front sway bar size. However, many people don't upgrade it because it's both difficult to access and doesn't make as big a difference compared to the rear sway bar upgrade. You also need to consider the relative stiffness between the front and rear bars. If you stiffen both the rear and front by the same amount, you probably will not get the same benefit as doing just the rear.
I'd recommend going with 18mm. You certainly can go stiffer, but keep in mind what sway bars do -- they connect the two wheels on an axle. The stiffer the bar, the less independent your suspension becomes. If you do a lot of offroading, you don't want fat sway bars. In fact, hard core off-roaders often remove their sway bar to maximize wheel travel. Also, fatter sway bars will make it easier for you to spin out in slippery road conditions.
If you want, you can try one of those adjustable rear sway bars (ie. Whiteline) that allow you to change the effective stiffness by altering the sway bar mounting points. I believe they offer 3 settings: 19,20,21mm. You get the benefit of experimenting with three settings with just one bar.
Strut tower bars are an expensive way to reduce body flex and improve chassis responsiveness. Again, you'll get more bang for the buck by installing a rear strut tower bar since the front is relatively stiff due to the chassis layout.
Ken
Also, if a person really wanted to get to your tank, I don't think an internal release would provide much protection.
Ken
It was like he was getting a commission on anything they would do. It started with me declining the "Recommended list for the 15,000 mile service"
When he read my odometer, he went back behind the desk and "presented" me with a clipboard of the list for this service.
I asked him, "If this was the Dealers list or Manufacturers list" He said it was the recommended list. Sure that this was the dealers inflated list, I then presented him with a list I had studiously copied from the "Warranty & Maintenance Booklet". His reaction to this was "If it was a snake and was going to bite him."
His reply was that he and Subaru would not stand behind the car if it developed problems due to his list not being followed. My reply back was, that if the manufacturer had required that these extra things be done they would have added it to their list, yeesh.
Again, he tried to have me sign off on 250 bucks worth of "service" with an air of superiority and arrogance.
Again we went back and forth, by this time I had enough.
This time I asked him if he was trying to start a fight with me over what service I wanted performed on my car?
Again I firmly stated that I only wanted what was on the list, which is what the Manufacturer recommends performed on my car!
He shut up after that and began entering and adding on his computer and came up with an unitemized bill for an estimate of $179. I was sure he only said $79 when he said it, but there on the sheet it said $179. it came out to a bit more than this with some unitemized "misc. charges."
My question to you all is this - Is this a fair amount for the 15,000 Mile Service.
Thanks for letting me voice what in my gut tells me I still got took.
To all who live or will travel through Minnesota - avoid Morries Subaru - Brooklyn Park (a suburb of Minneapolis) for service, with both hands clutched onto your wallet.
As far as buying a car from - we had a great experience with their Fleet person (Mike Zickermann).
BoBo39 aka another Brian.
-juice
-mike
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I hear your anger and it pisses me off too that the service advisor pulled that on you. Unfortuantely, I think $179 is high for even if you went above and beyond what Subaru recommends in the owner's manual. At 15K it's usually just an oil change, tire rotation and inspect everything else.
You still can have the last laugh. If you think you were not treated well, log a complaint at Subaru customer support: 1-800-SUBARU3.
Ken
Thank you all for letting me get that off my chest - I feel so much better today you would not believe it. You are all a wonderful.
By the way, I checked the site Steve recommended - it should have only cost me $112.00. Anyone know who it would matter to at SOA what this dealership is doing? Or should I just count the money I saved, by not going with the dealer recommended.
Now can I ask a second question. How do I avoid being ripped off at 30,000?
Tx again, BoBo39
Ken
Steve
I've been rushing up to anyone I see getting out of a Forester or OB in parking lots to ask about good service. I hear good about Metropolitan Subaru and White Bear Lake.
Still, I'd get a price quote from Edmunds' wonderful tool, then call around and ask who can match it. Let them know you'll go to the dealer with the lowest quote, or the first to match Edmunds' price.
-juice
Guess they can afford to, eh?
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Since you said you were looking to buy - let me give you some unsolicited information about some twin city dealers we found.
We found the White bear salesmen that approached us on the lot to be "overbearing." The Internet salesman seems to be quite genuine. A complete difference.
The Richfield dealership was impossible to get into because of the freeway/road system - we gave up after circling completely twice. Our good friends did buy there and had a good experience they say.
We bought ours through a car buying service at Hiway Credit Union (www.hiway.org). You do not need to be a member of the credit union to use this service. It seems they rent space or something.
We told the person what year, model, color, etc. and they called around and found us a price very much in line with Edmunds price. Then I went to Morries in Brooklyn Park and finalized the deal with Mike Zimermann in what seemed like less than half an hour. Put 160 on the odometer that afternoon!
*I am a member of this credit union, but I believe the two are separate. I have no other connection with this than that.
BoBo39.
It's been a great car ... I've owned it for 22 months now and with 33.5K only had very minor problems.
I can fit two RC planes (or a greasy bike) in the back, and not worry about the fuel stains on the carpeting ... what more can you ask for :-)
Ken
So I'm up in Banff Canada this week on vacation.... having a great time.......check my cell messages and I got a call from my local Southern Cal. Subaru dealer. He told me that 2 '03 foresters just got into the port and they'll have them by Thursday or Friday. I'm back next Monday so I'm planning a test drive it.... can't wait.
How much difference does this feature make in the snow?
The "S" offers more important advantages for wintry climates: heated mirrors & wiper defroster. These make a big difference in visibility & peace of mind in icy snowy weather. That's why I bought the "S" and am glad I did.
John
-juice
I've never spent this much money on a car before, and I just want to be happy with my decision after I've forked over the money.
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
But autos have advantages, too. They're better for towing, and off road it's easier to control the throttle. They're easier to resall later, and easier for bumper to bumper commutes.
I find the Forester is very "user friendly" in many ways, and even the clutch pedal isn't stiff.
You can get an L model for about $19k with a 5 speed, under $20k for an auto. Or all the way up to $23k or so for an S Premium automatic with leather, which has that gargantuan moonroof.
Put it this way - I have a 1998, and the 2003 is on our shopping list for a 2nd car. That says it all.
-juice
I thought they were very good, cheaper and more friendly than the some of the bay area dealers. Plus they rented me a car (another Forester) for $19.95 and I was able to still get to work by 9:00
As for the 5-speed, I think it's a better combination with all four-cylinder engines. The 2.5L boxer in our Foresters is quite torquey, but the 5-speed allows you to take full advantage of it.
Ken
Besides what Northerner or Canadian hits the gas hard to get out of snow, stuck or not? Hello, spinning wheels get you nowhere.
I neither felt it would help or hinder my ride. Maybe if this were the first time driving under snow conditions this would help, but if you've learned and lived with winter driving you can do without. Even when I was in the process of buying my '02L I asked the salesman about having or not-having LSD. He said he hasn't lost a sale because one had LSD and the other not.
We choose the L because it satisfied our needs. We felt we didn't really need the bells and whistles and PRICE of the S, besides we hated the colour of the titanium trim of the '02S.
Basically LSD is a neat little option but it, by itself, should not determine which level to get.
p.s. If I remember correctly the LSD demonstration required the driver to hit the gas in order for the LSD to kick in when slipping or control was being lost, totally going against the instinct of taking the foot off the gas and a quick tap on the brakes. Can someone confirm this for me?