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The car worked fine one day then the next morning it would not start. It now has a new starter, new battery, but it still will not start.
When the key is turned only a clicking sound from the dashboard is heard. It will not turn over.
Has anyone run across this? Any info would be helpful.
The door dinger coming on even though the key is out of the ignition seems to be a normal thing I believe. Now, if the door dinger is going off with the door closed this would indicate a problem for sure, causing battery draining. That would need fixing of course. Maybe a bad door switch stuck in the 'on' or 'closed' position.
The engine service light is something I've been dealing with on my Nissan Pathfinder since it rolled over 100k miles. It comes and goes but I pay no attention to it knowing I've serviced everything and all is up to date.
I'm no expert on cars but I do have experience in electronics and electricity.
Good luck to you.
Other times, tonight for example, I slow down to turn into a parking lot and all of my warning and engines lights come on, I lose power to everything, I pump the gas pedal and it all comes back to life.
Any insight into this would be great, it's scary driving around like this, especially when it happens on the highway and occurs when I try to gun the engine.
Did you ever find out why your car did it?
"Check Brake System" message followed by ABS light and alarm tone, then entire insturment panel, radio, and cruise control go out, and a second or two later the instrument panel returns to normal. On one occasion at highway speeds, I tapped the brake to slow down, the sequence described above occurred, and the engine stalled. Local Ford dealer was unable to replicate the problem during test drives and computer produced no codes except for one instance of low voltage and one instance of high voltage. If I have to throw money at this problem, I like to go into it with an educated guess on what the problem might be. Thanks to the forum for any thoughts provided.
Any geniuses out there know what's up with this car? I'd appreciate it.
I have a wiring or computer problem that nobody in my area can seem to find. Or find out what's wrong. I was driving down the road and the car just shut off. There is no power to the fuel pump, no power to the inertia switch which is in line with the pump to break the circuit in case of a collision. I tried a new control module that's located above the radiator and it ran for a short period of time (about ten minutes) with the "check engine" light on. But soon after that it stopped running and I cannot restart it. I know the engine is o.k. because I can give it a shot of ether in the intake and it starts. The eng. is a 3.0L v6. It ran great until this happened last week. The mechanic I took it too has had it since Monday, and today he says he can't find out what's wrong. Please help. This is an old car and I have to drive this until times get somewhat better and I get back to work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,
Barry
I see online there are 110 and 130 amp replacement units some have lower cycle numbers than others as well. I tend to use a good bit of in car chargers and run my lights all the time. Would the 130 amp be better for my car or would 130 amp be too much for the vehicle?
I think the power windows will work when the car is in reverse. That would confirm it.
I checked the fuse diagram and cannot locate one exclusively for the radio. I tried #22 for the cluster (15A), but it was OK....
ANY IDEAS???