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Saturn S-Series Maintenance and Repair
edwardsfamily
Member Posts: 6
in Saturn
Do I need to do anything other than disconnect the battery to disable the airbags on this car so I can replace the ignition lock?
Thanks
Thanks
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i also replaced the throttle position sensor but it still throws a code for it
please help
I bought a new horn (the one with the two mounting sites). However, my Saturn horn has a three-wire relay cap. I cut that off (per seller at AutoZone) and have tried "wrapping" each wire on one mount while the other is attached to a cable that is attached to the grounded horn. Nothing works.
QUESTION: WHAT AM I SUPPOSED TO DO!?!?!? How can I get this work!?!? PLEASE HELP ASAP!!!!
Pull the SIR fuse and disconnect the SIR power plugs for the bags under the dash.
188k miles
A/C works fine, good pressures
Blower motor good (bench tested)
Blower resistors good (bench tested)
Blower relay good (bench tested)
Blower switch good (bench tested)
Alternator output checked
Battery checked
All fuses good
Problem:
Turn on A/C and blower runs fine for about 5 minutes then it slows down and sometimes stops. Same results on any blower speed. Blower light dims as blower speed decreases.
Solutions anyone?
Speed Terminal
LO E
MED D
MED2 B
HI A
Is there voltage at all terminals ?
Do you have a E11 IN ENGINE CONTROLS ?
That will tell you, you have a transmission code set.
For starts right down your codes (engine & trans) and clear them. Drive the vehical till your code comes back and check to see what reset.
What you can try to do is remove the EGR valve from the vehical look into the ports that EGR controls and make sure that you dont have a blockage it one port. One thing to try is with the valve removed start the vehical. Caution you need to keep you hand on the Key to shut the car off cause it will rev to the rev limiter. CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL FIRST !
With the valve removed start the vehical you will here exhaust leaking and if so shut down the vehical. You know the port is open but how much ?
Make further inspection check the electrical connector and then what I recommend you to do after that is get a new valve from Saturn
I will try the things you suggest and see how i make out before purchasing a new valve from saturn being they are pretty darn expensive. not having a starting problem, but sometimes a driveability prob at different speeds either going up hills or initialy starting out...seems to lose power and sort of bog down on me.
There is a repair that can be done but you need to go to Saturn. Tell them you need a new key cut and a Ignition lock cylinder coded.
NOTE: You will need to have your Driver's License (FOR THEFT REASONS) and your vehicle identification number, Registration card. They will need to go into there system to get your key code for your Vehicle so the new key will be the same. And with a new key cut if you have a second key put the two together and see if your second looks the same or worn. If the second key is worn REPLACE it.
For the repair you need to keep in mind if your not sure how to do it's best to go to the Dealer. Why brake more that what’s broken. Ignition lock cylinders are not and easy repair.
Again what Year, Make, Model do you have ?
First thing you need to do is always post your current vehicals informatiom for every responce. It's most helpfull. I don't know what you own.
YEAR/MAKE/MODEL
ENGINE APPLICATION
THANK YOU
-thanks
OK now you do have two (o2 oxygen )sensors.
The Primary oxygen (O2) sensor is located in the exhaust manifold just off the head and that is a 1 wire sensor.
The Secondary oxygen (O2) sensor is located down by the exhaust system converter and that is a 3 wire sensor.
Your SL2 what year is it ?
Engine revs high, all Saturn's came with Tachometer's what RPM is it going to ?
Is it hitting the rev limiter ?
Is your (SES) light on ? Service engine soon
Note: If the engine isn't running correctly the trans will not perform properly.
I believe you can go to your aera parts store and ask them they will pull codes for you. Wright them down.
Thanks
NO S-SERIES Saturn's had a Transmission Control Unit. That was all controlled by the PCM. Powertrain Control Module. Before doing anything pull your codes first(Engine and Transmission) write them down. Compair your notes and see what reset.
Doug
My question to you is:
Do you have ABS or NOT ?
But here are the bleeding procedure's for both systems.
With out ABS:
Front Right,Rear Left,Front Left,Rear Right
And with ABS:
Right Rear,Left Rear,Right Front,Left Front
You have two simple test's that you can perform and both are easy.
Step 1 push your brake pedal down and see if someone can tell you if your brake lights came on. Not to worry about burnt out bulbs.
YES go to step 2
NO possible brake switch.
Only if lights came on in step 1 go to step 2.
Step 2 get into your car (key on engine off) and turn every thing off. Windows up will help you cause you need to listen to a noise. DON’T TOUCH THE SHIFTER OK.
Now push your brake pedal down gently and listen for a clicking noise. Stop, let go, and push the pedal again
Did you here a clicking noise ?
If you don't
you will need a (DVOM) Digital Volt Ohm Meter. And you need to remove the console.
You will have a (BTSI)Brake Transaxel Shift Interlock control problem.
EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid
Location is in back of the engine block look for the starter. It's behind the housing of the starter. You will see a black/plastic line coming down from the intake that is the vacuum hose for the EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid/Valve. You will need a 10MM socket to remove it. Take note of the lines to the valve before you remove them. Don’t cross them when reinstalling the new Solenoid/Valve.
P1650 Quad Driver B Circuit
The computer performs a system check every time you key on. So what you need to do is key on but don’t start the vehicle. The (PCM) Powertrain Control Module command’s a bulb check.
Look at your indicator lights in the cluster when you do this to see if all of the bulb’s are working ( low fuel, ses light, temp, ..). Not back lighting.
Check cooling fan control with AC operation turned on. Is fan on
Check the fuse in the (UHJB) Under hood junction block for Maxi fuse. See if it’s blown
There is a lot of criteria associated with this failure. If you cant find your problem here you will need to take it to the Dealer
Look in your (IPJB) Interment Panel Junction Block.
Location is down by the passengers left foot.
Pull the panel off then you will see the (IPJB). Now on the panel you pulled off look at the back side of it and you will see all the information you need. You will be looking for the lighter fuse. 20 amp fuse.
Yes that is correct. You have 2 fuse boxes a (UHJB)&(IPJB).
Under Hood Junction Block
Instrument Panel Junction Block
On acceleration from low rpm to higher rpm the engine hesitates (coughs).
When the throttle is held steady there is no noticeable problem, but once you release the throttle and begin to accelerate you get a hesitation.
I have a cruise control that it will not stay on because of the hesitation. The cruise control shuts off after you release the throttle.
I have a new ignition, new air cleaner, new spark plugs, new engine temperature sensor, new map sensor, new throttle position sensor, new spark plug wires.
Help
Is your check engine light on ?
If so you need to go to your area parts store to have your codes checked. 1996 Vehicles and on have OBD2 “ On Board Diagnoses”. That will capture any misfires you may have going on with your vehicle. Wright down all information before clearing.
I have an OBD2 scan tool by AUTOTERRA for Palm OS.
I took the EGR VALVE off today and it was clean at the pinnacle and around the port on both the cylinder head side and the valve side.
I did spray it with brake cleaner and scrubbed with a tooth brush. All the came off was a little bit of black. The pinnacle moved freely before and after treatment.
Reinstalled it and torqued the bolt and nut. Started it up and it ran. I am going to work soon and report on any change if any.
The EGR has 100,000+ Kms on it.
If your sure that the EGR valve is fine, unplug the valve and drive the vehicle. The engine light will come on but you understand why. See if it still hesitates. Driving under a load your testing the performance of the secondary ignition.
If it still does.
Start at the plugs look at them and see what color they are, lightly pepper looking is fine but black is not. Check your fireing order over. Plug gap .040. One other thing you can do is remove all spark plug wires from the coils and put them out of the way. Look at the coil towers and have someone crank the engine over. See if they arck together 4-1,2-3. If not you may have a bad coil.
I unplugged the EGR and drove the car with no change. I got the engine light on and reset it.
I checked the spark plugs and they are white. They are bosch copper plus gapped at .050.
I have Nology capacitor discharge plug wires, AEM cold air intake, a ceramic coated exhaust, and a flow thru cat and muffler, as well as a Complete MSD Ignition.
I am not comfortable with shorting the coils.
But I have run on the stock ignition and have had the same problem.
I have changed the stock coils on the same stock ignition module and had the same problem.
I have changed the stock ignition module and run the stock coils and and MSD coils and had the same problem.
I have changed spark pug wires and had the same problem.
One other thing I have noticed is that the hesitation always starts after the temperature gauge gets to normal operating temperature.