Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Subaru Outback/Legacy Brakes
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Big Breakers.
10mm bolts to extract the rotors if they are frozen on.
-mike
92371 Brake Fluid Flush
95368 Resurfaced =Rotors on my complaint of extreme pulsating (2/1/207)
105320 DS Front Caliper frozen, replaced and
replaced Front Pads...(11/24/2007)
Now...111.500 miles...extreme pulsating brakes---
Special comments: I will not return to the shop who has done this work, they told me after turning the rotors they would not warranty these repairs again since he was sure I was doing something to cause this chronic issue.
I think there is an underlying problem here, what do you guys think?
thanks
vicki :confuse:
92k brake flush- This should be done every 30k miles or 3 years whichever comes first, it's part of the 30k/60k/90k/120k etc. mile service required
10k later the brakes are resurfaced due to pulsations- This can be due to the bad caliper that you had replaced at 105k or some other issue.
6k later you have pulsing brakes, could be due to the stuck caliper damaging the rotor while stuck.
On a side note you said this work was done at a "shop" was it a dealer using Subaru parts? Aftermarket Parts? Generic Parts? There are some very very cheaply made cheap rotors that a lot of shops will slap on your car, these rotors will warp/get pad deposits very quickly and are basically crap.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
BTW the car has been running great with zero problems. although I already had to replace the windshield because of a pebble attack
Yes basically you bleed em til the fresh fluid starts to come out the bleeds.
I alternate between ATE Superblue and Gold so that I know when I've fully flushed each line.
The proper flush/bleed method is to have 2 people.
One pumps up the brakes.
The other cracks the bleeder (with a tube on it to catch the fluid).
The person in the car says "Floor" and holds the pedal to the floor.
The Cracker says "Closed" after the bleeder is closed.
The Pumper then pumps up the brakes and says "Hard".
Cracker opens the bleeder again.
Repeat this til the tube shows that there is fresh fluid coming out. Make sure to refill the resivoir along the way.
On subies you start at the drivers front -> Pass Front ->Driver Rear ->Pass Rear.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
1) Passenger front
2) Driver rear
3) Driver front
4) Passenger rear.
Then bleed the 2 slave cylinders.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Mountain Rotors if you can find them are great quality. For pads I really like the Hawk HPs pads on the street. Also make sure to flush your brakes every 2 years.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
You might test it on a gravel road to try locking up the brakes (engaging the ABS), just to see how the whole system behaves.
The original brake fluid on this car may never have been replaced, and at that age, it is certainly due.
Have them bled to make sure there is no air in the lines, and you should be fine.
-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
Has anyone else had any similar problems? I have browsed the web and have come across ice related abs problems but nothing conclusive.
M.
What were the temperatures at the time? Far colder than normal?
I wonder, perhaps, if old brake fluid is the culprit here....
The ABS had been working as it had activated when I slowed up turning out of our road on a slight down slope in the snow and the ABS also activated moments afterwards when I tested them on a snow covered downhill slope, also checked again numerous time this evening.
The temperature this morning was actually slightly warmer than it has been for the last few days, around freezing, the outside temperature gauge on the Subaru said 0 C.
This car is a new one for me, only about 2 months old, so I don't know the state of any of it's fluids, when I've got some spare cash I'll propbably take it to a Subaru dealer for a complete service.
Usually, I found that if I let off the brakes, tapped the pedal a few times, then pressed real hard again, it would let loose and go back to normal operation. Quite disconcerting when it happened though. The hand brake comes in... handy... during those moments.
I'd just replace them at this point, they're probably too thin anyway.
However, given the recurrence of the warp, I expect the stock rotors are insufficient for your application. I agree with AJ - you should consider replacing the rotors with something aftermarket that can handle the added heat.
Question - my research online shows that this car has 293.5 mm rotors in the front and 289.7mm in the rear. Looks like you can get 255mm rear discs also, but I think the larger ones also fit.are these the right size rotors? My understanding when we got the car was that the Limited model wagon got a bit bigger rotors than the standard 2.5i model. But now I can't find that piece of info anywhere.
Thanks -
M
If the rotors are bigger than most likely the mounting brackets would be different. I doubt they'd be interchangeable.
Bleed each brake cylinder starting with front right, rear left, front left, rear right. Keeping main reservoir topped up and keep bleeding till new fluid comes out of nipple.
Is that it?
While driving back home the headlights slowly dimmed and the steering became difficult. Just made it before the car died. So, there is one, lucky deer and one dead Subaru. The pads and rotors were worked on recently. However, the brakes on this car have never been great.
Is there anyone that can shed some light on this. What is hard to believe that so much commotion came from stepping on your brakes.
Where is the rolleyes emotorcon?
But hey, I learned my lesson about owning a Subaru.
I see no reason to go to the dealer for that service.
I don't recall what I paid for the front brake pads on my Forester, but for my 93 Miata they cost $17. Both sides, front axle.
No kidding.
What is going on with my brakes??? Haven't driven the car hard - mix of city/highway. Is there some kind of chronic problem with this model's brake system? No way am I going to pay anyone to do any brake work unless they can pinpoint why 4 rotors fail first after 25k miles and 1 or 2 again after 20k miles.... I'm first going to bring the car back to the same Subaru dealer since I would think they'd have the most experience with this model, but the problem isn't under warranty, and I find that repairmen look for the quickest fix, and don't know how to look deeper for systemic problems, unless you tell them where to look.... So would appreciate anyone's thoughts and advice. Thanks!!
Subie#2: 210k, drove from queensland to western australia, thru tasmania
Subie#3: 230k, drove from alberta to baja california
Subie#4: 120k, drove from oregon to louisiana and back, twice
A Subaru has never failed me on the road.
When I follow the link, I find a recall from the 1968 Plymouth Valiant. I'd call that false and misleading advertising on your part!
Cheers
Graham
However.
I'm on my third set of front rotors in the last 60K miles. IIRC, the originals lasted considerably longer but after that it was frequent front rotor/pad relacements with OEM parts. This last set was not OEM, figured I'd try them to see if they were any better. They're worse and and need replacing after 12K.
It seems DIY is easy enough but I really need to see it being done first.
Anyway, what's with this rotor problem? My friend also has an Forester with 23K and his front rotors are starting to go. I've also heard of rotor issues on other non-Subaru vehicles.
What's the deal? Is it poor manufacturing or design... uneven wear or warpage due to rotors being too thin to begin with? Could faulty installation be a problem? Rotors should get over 60K, easy.
Yes, they should. My '96 Outback had originals through 220,000 miles, which is when I ceased owning it. It braked smoothly that whole time. Of course, it was only on its second set of pads (both front and rear), too.
Proper installation is important, as is even pressure from the lug nuts, but neither of those things is difficult to achieve, even by a home DIY'er with no experience.
If you brake hard and frequently, it may just be that the rotors are undersized for your duty requirements and cannot shed the heat fast enough. Have you tried drilled/slotted rotors? Those are often used in performance applications and may be able to resist warping by shedding heat better. Of course, I am assuming that warping is the problem that is killing your rotors.
Most of you that have followed my experience with my '02 OBW know that I have two issues with the car - Head Gaskets & Front Brakes. Otherwise I love the beast.
My '02 was a very early production unit and actually uses the front brakes from the '01. They are just too small for the weight of the vehicle and I get chronic overheating. I've used stock pads & rotors, as well as Powerslot Cryo rotors & Hawk HPS pads. I just put stock pads on after cleaning up the Powerslot rotor.
I'm getting decent longevity out of the various setups, but the amount of pad transfer onto the rotor causing 'warpage' symptoms (it's actually thickness variation) and steering wheel shake is unacceptable. Never had anything like this in any other car. I have to be extra careful sitting at a light to allow a little bit of movement to not end up with a high spot.
So yes, I feel your pain.