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Subaru Outback/Legacy Brakes



  • grahampetersgrahampeters AustraliaPosts: 1,786

    When I follow the link, I find a recall from the 1968 Plymouth Valiant. I'd call that false and misleading advertising on your part!


  • ingvaringvar Posts: 205
    Wow!!!! It is story about my old Honda accord!!!! BTW, I switched my IS350 to Legacy 3.6R Limited and I'm happy!!!
  • designmandesignman Posts: 2,129
    edited July 2010
    My 02 Outback has over 160K miles. I really like the car. You know, it's like an old dog, you don't want them to leave. I want it to be around 'til it needs to be put out of its misery.


    I'm on my third set of front rotors in the last 60K miles. IIRC, the originals lasted considerably longer but after that it was frequent front rotor/pad relacements with OEM parts. This last set was not OEM, figured I'd try them to see if they were any better. They're worse and and need replacing after 12K.

    It seems DIY is easy enough but I really need to see it being done first.

    Anyway, what's with this rotor problem? My friend also has an Forester with 23K and his front rotors are starting to go. I've also heard of rotor issues on other non-Subaru vehicles.

    What's the deal? Is it poor manufacturing or design... uneven wear or warpage due to rotors being too thin to begin with? Could faulty installation be a problem? Rotors should get over 60K, easy.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,895
    Rotors should get over 60K, easy.

    Yes, they should. My '96 Outback had originals through 220,000 miles, which is when I ceased owning it. It braked smoothly that whole time. Of course, it was only on its second set of pads (both front and rear), too.

    Proper installation is important, as is even pressure from the lug nuts, but neither of those things is difficult to achieve, even by a home DIY'er with no experience.

    If you brake hard and frequently, it may just be that the rotors are undersized for your duty requirements and cannot shed the heat fast enough. Have you tried drilled/slotted rotors? Those are often used in performance applications and may be able to resist warping by shedding heat better. Of course, I am assuming that warping is the problem that is killing your rotors.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,780
    edited August 2011
    Should have checked here more often - didn't see this comment.

    Most of you that have followed my experience with my '02 OBW know that I have two issues with the car - Head Gaskets & Front Brakes. Otherwise I love the beast.

    My '02 was a very early production unit and actually uses the front brakes from the '01. They are just too small for the weight of the vehicle and I get chronic overheating. I've used stock pads & rotors, as well as Powerslot Cryo rotors & Hawk HPS pads. I just put stock pads on after cleaning up the Powerslot rotor.

    I'm getting decent longevity out of the various setups, but the amount of pad transfer onto the rotor causing 'warpage' symptoms (it's actually thickness variation) and steering wheel shake is unacceptable. Never had anything like this in any other car. I have to be extra careful sitting at a light to allow a little bit of movement to not end up with a high spot.

    So yes, I feel your pain.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,895
    Steve, you may have addressed this before, but can you not up-size the front brakes? If you could, do you think it would help?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
This discussion has been closed.