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Comments
Ed
Greg
Ken
Ken is correct; it is off the law boos now. It used to be a real pain having to paint on yellow dye when you went to France and then stripping it off when geting back to England.
The Yellow was a hold over from one of those bizarre Gallic ideas that yellow gave better lighting. Took them a long time to see it didn't work.
Cheers
Graham
Thanks!
David
-mike
Said '99 had the cheesiest replacement tires previous owner could find, and upon discovering that the original spare had never touched ground, I replaced the tires with the OEM Geolanders. First serious snowfall here last week and difference is profound.
TAFN. j0elboy
Welcome to the club, j0elboy. :-)
Noone even brought this up, but that spare almost completely blocks the rear view to one side. Forester may be too low for that setup.
One CR-V owner had his daughter back into a pole, and $1500 later he regrets it. I think things might be different on a much taller SUV with a hitch extension.
So intriguing, but not quite, not for me. The angles of approach and departure are improved tremendously by those bumpers, though!
-juice
Some things to look for in aftermarket warranties:
Is the company re-insured by a major company? Re-insurance is backup for claims if a company goes out of business or gets hit with a huge claim volume that it cannot meet. Unfortunately, this is still no guaranty because re-insurers are sometimes separate entitites from their parent companies or are joint ventures.
Do they allow you to use any repair shop or only "approved" ones? In the latter case, they may coerce the shop into doing inferior repairs.
What does the Better Business Bureau have to say about them? If there are unresolved complaints, that is a possible sign of trouble.
Does anyone you know recommend them? Good experience is the best recommendation.
The latter is probably why you asked here, and I also would be interested in any experiences people have had with extended warranties. Perhaps that should be a new thread.
Ken
tidester, host
I never did like the spare tire on the outside rear design. It's one of the reasons I chose the Forester over the CRV. One of the first things I noticed about the CR-V was its poor rear visibility.
The salesman removed the rear seat headrests, and that helped quite a bit. Yet, there still remained the smallish rear window and the sliver of spare tire still visible in the mirror.
The rear view of the Forester, on the other hand, is expansive, and even more so after the rear headrests were removed. The generously sized rear window combined with the large side mirrors enables even this witless spud to back into parking spaces confidently and safely.
Oh, you don't check it at least monthly? Why not? It's no good to you or your loved ones if it's flat.
John
paisan,
I'm probably just a little paranoid. It's never happened to me (because I don't have any cars with a rear mounted spare) but I don't want to give anyone the chance of doing it. There's just a lot of random vandalism sometimes, and checking a spare tire is one less thing I want to worry about. One thing I do notice is that people on the east coast aren't as paranoid with their stuff. In california, we have locks for everything, wheel locks, car cover locks, light locks, roof rack locks, snowboard and ski locks, etc. I guess it's just assumed that if you leave it out unlocked, you didn't want it that much in the first place. Not that california is full of thieves, but I think people just aren't as trusting.
That's always an excellent idea. I think a lot of folks forget to check the spare. I typically fill it to the max PSI since I know I can always bleed air off if necessary.
Ken
Well, if they APPEAR to be more glaring, then they ARE more glaring. It's not as though people are imagining it.
I'm a pretty sensible person, never caused an accident in 30 years of driving. I've been blinded by those headlights a few times, and it wasn't my imagination. They need to be better regulated or eliminated, IMO.
Went to a dealer this morning to buy an OUTBACK; decided on the FORESTER instead! Mainly due to the better room.
The XS 5-speed in green. Sound nice? (I did not buy today, because the dealer tried to steal my trade-in! KBB/NADA = $5,400 Their offer = $2,000. Looks like I'll be selling it myself!)
Anyway, before I buy the Forester, there are two questions for the experienced Forester people:
1) Rumors of the Turbo coming here. True? Any details? Should I wait?
2) Are the dealer-added options, like Tweeter Kits and Auto-dim/Compass Mirror, pre-wired; and you just pop them in? For example, if you pull the plastic door triangle, is the Tweeter wire right there? Likewise in the center headliner, is the wire there for the mirror, or will I have to wire it - or get the dealer to do it?
Looks like a great car. Preferred the interior room over the Outback. It's quite obviously a newer design. Plus, more glass makes it less claustrophobic.
Thank you!
Sounds like my tale of woe. Even if my car were in rough condition, which it isn't, the dealers were offering $2000 below that.
The excuses were that Ford was dumping a lot of them from the rental market (hmmm and it's a four year old car, and that no one buys cars in december and january. My response to that one was "Well, I guess not!" and walked out.
I guess it is better make no money, than to make a little money, at least according to their thinking...
- Lou
My car's in beautiful shape. The Subaru dealer said they could only wholesale it out "...we won't make a penny..." for $2,500. I assume he's lying, and would sell it to a wholesaler for $3,500. Then the wholesale guy sells it to a used car guy for $4,500... who puts it on his lot for $6,500 (which, by shere coincidence, is what KBB/NADA says they're selling for at retail.)
I love cars. I love driving. Why do so many of these guys make it such a terrible experience?
bit
Bottom line it is almost always better to sell the car yourself!
OK...just my .02
Eric
Update on my springs: i took the subbie to the most reputable people in town, got my front springs changed but, it being the 13th and friday, the back ones were wrong (misfit). iSR made a mistake and they are sending me the correct ones laters this week. as far as i can tell for now, it's a bit stiffer, though surprisingly not much, and about 1.5" higher. i think once the back springs are in, i'll be very happy with my full-of-stuff Subaru. cheers.
Replacing the clutch on the Forester is pretty much like with any vehicle. The manual transmission AWD is handled by a viscous coupling that is a completely sealed unit. You don't need to deal with it when replacing the clutch.
Ken
Millions and millions of drivers have learned to drive a stick without destroying their clutches. Did you ruin the clutch when you learned to drive a manual? I suspect not.
-Frank P.
-Frank P.
I do check the psi on my spare tires. The one on my Miata was about 40psi low when I bought that car (that donut calls for 60psi). Like Ken, I keep the psi high because you can always let air out. Each of our cars has a tire gauge in it.
Here's a bonus if you're teaching stick on a Forester - the Hill Holder will make it a LOT easier. The toughest thing for a newbie is not letting it roll on an incline, so not having to worry about the brakes lets you focus on the clutch.
So yeah, a new clutch will cost you $300 or so in parts, but to fix that inevitable bumper bash on any other vehicle you get will likely cost $500-600. :-)
Sell or trade? I say sell. We were offered $500 on an old Mirage trade, got $2450 for it. $500 for our old beater Sprint, sold privately for $2250. I even managed above book value on the 626 we sold earlier this year. Always came out thousands ahead.
kajko: bummer about the wait, keep us posted? 1/5", eh? Maybe it'll be 2" when they've all been installed.
-juice
The gain is a savings on the part of oil companies that receive federal and state exemptions on the excise tax. "Oxygenated fuel" used to be called "gasohol" when ethanol was the oxygenate and the more general term now includes the use of ether.
Another gain is a reduction in the demand for petroleum during winter months when the need is more acute.
I'll leave it to others to decide whether the alleged performance gains are real.
tidester, host
Having the dealer replace the clutch will cost about $800. These days, that is not too bad.
I too had a bad experience with my dealer offering far below book for a car that was in top condition. However, there are tradeoffs. In New York, if you trade, you pay sales tax only on the difference in price between the new and old cars. If you sell privetely, you pay the full tax on the new car. Of course, if it is a bad deal, the tax might not make much difference.
Also, you do not have to worry about letting strangers test drive your car. And you do not have to pay to advertise and wait for a response. Of course, you could always sell to that neighbor who has always admired it. After all, it is a Subaru. : )
Here in WNY we start to see oxygenated gas in the fall and it continues thru spring. It does NOT improve performance or mileage and most everyone sees a decline in mileage as soon as it reaches the market.
I personally RESET my ECU as soon as I think I'm getting oxygenated fuel in an attempt for the computer to adjust more quickly. My normal mileage is right at 27. When the oxygenated gas arrives ..I have seen as little as 20 mpg. Resetting usually gets me back to about 25....so I plan on losing 2 mpg with the oxygenated stuff. Nothing to do but live with it until spring when I do another RESET and back to the 27 mpg.
Sorry for the lengthy comment..but its how I understand the issue. Does it keep the air cleaner....probably. Does it improve performance...hardly. Does it mean more profit?...maybe (sell more gas) but it may cost more to produce so....??????
Or teach them on an old, worn clutch (it's easier because it slips more). Then get the Subie.
-juice
In order to allow the ECU to re-learn properly, most people wait until the car is cold before doing the reset procedure. After the 30 minutes are up, start the engine and let the vehicle idle for about 15 minutes.
The ECU does learn over time by averaging various driving conditions and inputs (ie. gas). Resetting it simply speeds up the process since it has no previous memory to weigh in.
Also, keep in mind that resetting the ECU will cause your engine to run rich for 1-2 tanks. You'll notice gas milage will drop and that the vehicle is a little peppier.
Ken
Why the reset: Each time you operate your car is an "event" which gives the data base information to average into how it operates. By resetting you remove that large data base and return the settings to those entered by the manufacturer. This gives the ECU a chance to adapt faster. Now does it mean you will have poor gas mileage after the reset....it has NOT been my experience....remember you are back to factory settings!
OK..How to reset.
1. disconnect "negative " terminal from battery
2. wait 1-2 hrs * (I've heard you can reduce this time by depressing brake pedal ...I've not done it)
3. reconnect negative terminal to battery
4. start car * DO NOT touch any controls.gas pedal etc
5. allow car to warm up to normal operating temp
6. shut car off
7. restart car...ECU is now reset and ready to start adapting to whatever you changed.
NOTE: you will lose the radio presets/trip meter and clock settings when you reconnect...I just reset them. Also IF you have an alarm hooked up...IT WILL TRIGGER (be ready : ))
OK...thats my story and I'm sticking to it.....for now ; )
I chart my mileage, and it's happened twice that way, so I doubt it's coincidental. Keep in mind the ECU learns *my* driving habits, which are different than yours. So YMMV.
-juice
Sorry it was your experience to lose mileage with a reset.....all I said was "it has not been my experience"....I fully expect that "we" all have different driving habits.
If what I said stepped on your toes...I appologize!
Now YMMV..???????
Our ECUs are programmed for fuel economy and engine longevity. In most cases, the ECU has optimized for one's driving habits so resetting drops it back to a preset conservative state where it runs rich. Over time, it slowly leans out the fuel mixture to strike a balance between running lean and improving gas milage.
Ken
No toe stepping occurred, just sharing my experience to have a greater knowledge base.
-juice
When my ECU has been reset after service, I have seen a slide in economy of about 10% coming back up to normal values over about three tanks full. That's rather longer than I would expect as I understood that the database that the ECU works off is biased heavily to the last ten to twenty minutes of driving.
Cheers
Graham
Greg
bit
Thanks
- Lou, thinking ahead...
I own an orbital buffer, but I usually end up doing everything by hand.
Ken
Now to sneak the OEM wheels into the basement for claying and waxing for the next three nights...
Ed