Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Before I purchased the Outlander, I asked the dealer how much it would cost to synchronize the sensors to the car two times a year. He gave me an estimate of $45. each time ($90 a year). I got him to agree to do this for free as long as I own the car!
The spare doesn’t have a TPMS since it is only supposed to be for temporary use.
I put the snows on last week, and just had the sensors programmed today (for free) so the warning light is now out on the dash. The dealer even gave me a free oil change to boot!
(somehow I was always able to look after my own tires just fine thank you)
I wonder what's next ? In NYS they will now only install a pair of new tires on the rear, even if you just replaced that set last month. (doesn't make a difference if your car is FWD, RWD, or AWD.)
Perhaps you may give us your experiences of driving your GT with a set of 16” wheels with tyres 215/70R16. How is the grip and maneuverability at high speed on snow and mud? Do you feel more secure driven your car? I think you could give us a firsthand experience of the capability of your car at any road conditions with the brand new set of wheels and tires?
The need for Right to Repair legislation has become a necessity in order to protect the rights of car owners to decide where and how they have their vehicles serviced, whether at a new car dealer or an independent service facility. Right to Repair ensures that the person, who bought the car and not the car company, can decide where that vehicle is repaired and maintained.
Technical Bulletin Service (TBS) is only issue to dealers, Special Service Tools (SST) is only sold to dealers, and some car parts are only available if you service your car in a dealer or franchiser. Many specific procedures for repairing your car (publications, CD/DVD) are only given to dealers with few exceptions.
The main objective of the bill is that manufacturers as for example MMA, provides a section dedicated exclusively to car’s owners where information about Mitsubishi car conveyed to dealers is automatically published in this section for discretional use of car owners
If you can see a tire is low, it's likely to be very under-inflated. So much that the tire is wearing unevenly. I view TPMS as the "early warning system" so that I can keep my tires at the proper inflation, thus maximizing the tire's lifespan. Low tires also hurt a vehicle's fuel economy.
The average consumer does not check their tire pressure at every fill-up like we did in the '70s. Most don't check it monthly. I'd guess many don't check it at all and rely on the tires being checked when the car is serviced for some other reason. And with service intervals getting longer and longer tires will be checked less and less often.
I'm interested enough in cars to be on these forums and I don't even check the tire pressure regularly. Or at all, now that I have a car that checks it for me.
The real question, then, should be if the cost of a TPMS outweighs the value it returns. I'm not sure there's sufficient data to make a determination on that just yet. To the individual who never gets a flat, their advantage would likely be subtle in that they can potentially go a few thousand more miles before they need to buy replacement tires. And they'll get optimal fuel economy (a few percent higher than with under-inflated tires). Replacement tire costs are deferred, not avoided. If they keep their cars a long enough time that may save the price of a full set of tires.
For the tire manufacturers, tires having a longer life = fewer tires purchased so they've no profit motive in this. For the automakers, a properly engineered TPMS will be useful across their entire product line so their costs are spread out. It does add parts cost, assembly cost, and engineering effort but those shouldn't be substantial.
In the end it's probably a wash on consumer cost v. benefit.
BTW if you search for wheels @ TireRack.com, they note prices for the 4 TPMS sensors at around $200 for a '10 Outlander GT.
that's about it for today..david
Anyway, we got a big nail stuck in our passenger/rear tire. The puncture was too close to the edge to patch, so I needed to get, not one, but TWO new tires! Our Goodyear Eagles only had 4000 miles, so this seemed like such a waste.
Eagle 225/55/18s were discontinued, which prompted the purchase of a set. While I've always liked Michelin, it seemed to make more sense for match and cost to get the suggested Dunlops or Kellys. The Goodyear dealer favored the Kelly for road noise.
Already on the ride home, I think the front-mounted Kellys track better and steer less squirrely verses the Eagles. Anyone with Kelly Navigator Touring Gold experience? I still might like to get Michelin Primacys, but these Kellys seem decent for now.
my Goodyear Assurance triple treads tires have been trouble free with the exception of an annoying vibration from one tire that can't be fixed with balancing ( could be my tire or the rim, just don't know). hasn't been a problem in rain or general handling. and my tires are going strong with minimal tread wear.
my Hakepelleta's will be going on in a month or so; but i may look at the hankooks or michelin mvx4 for a replacement if i can get more feedback from the forum.... or just go with the newer Goodyear assurance tires recommended( by Goodyear). Consumer reports just did a review on all season and all terrain tires and the Goodyear assurance tires were not mentioned. michelin's were, but the tire sizes aren't available for the recommended models. the cooper's and hankook's are also top picks. don't know about sizes.
thanks
david
Don't know why these tires wouldn't work, if I would need snow tires for sure, where to put them (front or back only), and what would be a good brand and item. These Grabbers are rated S, just as the prior ones. I know it says H rating for this car, but my research indicated H was fine. Can I put two snows on with different ratings? I see mention of stability control - not sure if this is a switch that needs to be turned on. In the past in snow, the car would automatically put itself in 2 or 1 when the road was slippery. I did not see this happen. Don't know if when new tires put on a stability control would be turned off to do that? Also tried 4 more times that night on other stretches of road, same problem - did not break in time. One posting here mentioned harder sidewall, presumably relating to H, may have to do with traction, although General GS80 were also S rated. Please help - afraid to drive car!
According to Tire Guides, a 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander should take a P215/70R16 at 32 psi. Please check your vehicle tire placard to make sure this is correct.
The vehicle tire placard is usually loacted on a doorpost or in the glove box, but sometimes it is located on the fuel filler door or in the trunk.
Check that and I'll bet you will find the shop put in the wrong pressure - a common occurance.
If that doesn't work, post back.
Turning the car on today, the ABS light does go on, then off seconds later, as normal. Car does have ACS system (noted manual says if so equipped). Didn't look to see is ABS or ACS lights on or off when I had situation, or tested that night. Tomorrow am to snow - will look then.
What is the other system called where car seemed to automatically downshift in snow - didn't happen in situation or tests that night. Could putting on new tires disengage it?
Thanks so much for being a part of a great team of responders.
The ASC is always automatically activated when the ignition switch is turned to the ON position. On rare occasions if you should find yourself stuck in snow, sand or mud the ASC may limit the engine speed making it difficult to move. In these circumstances traction may be improved if (while the vehicle is at rest) the ASC is deactivated by pressing the ASC OFF button for three seconds. This is not normal operation and you might want to consult your owners manual to read up on it.
You mention about being stuck in snow or mud, but I remember other times when the car would automatically shift downward, and it only occurred when there was noticeable amounts of snow - anywhere from 1/4 or 1/2 inch up to an inch or two. I thought it was a good thing that the car automatically did this (particularly with a new student driver with little years of experience). You indicate its not normal and to check the manual, but there is no referenceto the car automatically downshifting, at all. It also did not seem to downshift during the clear slippage two days ago, as it did in the prior snowy season. That's why I wondered if the new tires could affect that, or perhaps the difference in pressure.
Are you indicating its best to turn off ASC only when stuck, but not when there is a snowy condition of half-inch on upward of snow? By having ASC off or on, would it affect the tightness of the steering, and would dry or wet conditions be a factor? If there is a good way to operate (turn it on or off) in wet/snow conditions (not totally stuck in snow) with an inexperienced teen, please advise. Seems the steering is now a little too sensitive, and concern may overreact to situation.
The ASC can limit your engine speed (as you have noticed) and normally the only reason you might want to switch it off - TEMPORARILY- is if your are stuck in snow, sand or mud and need more revs to help you get out.
Now on my Lincoln LS with rear drive, I need to switch the traction control off frequently to get the tires spinning enough to get the car going. Really makes me appreciate the Outlander, my wife won't even drive the Lincoln in winter.
When I am driving at slow speed for more than 15 minutes sometimes I switch off the ASC because I think that I am able to control the car at that speed (regardless of the condition of the road). The advantage of doing this is less consumption of petrol, I think. Nevertheless, please do not take my words as if I were an expert.
Did check a week after this incident, tire pressures in front both down to 22 from 32. I put in air, saw mechanic next day, said recheck in few days. Now four days later one front 26, and other front 32. Taking it today
re-inflated them 4 days ago. Checked last night - down to 26 for one of them, the other stayed at 32. I have noticed "slippery road" notice written come on, but I was hardly driving fast - maybe even at 20-30 mph, even in dry road, or rain. Hasn't snowed much last year to recall what happened then.
I noted to mechanic tire pressure light did not go on after I discovered week after incident, 2 weeks after installation, down to 22 PSI fronts - he said didn't know calibration Mitsi set for it to go off. It could be only when its remarkably more. Makes sense, as other times I could actually see low tires after I noted light on. Said to check tires again, four days later now down to 26 one front, other 32. Bringing it in - any theories why loss?
Car's reaction during incident definitely not like typical ABS response - whole car thundered. Mechanic explained ABS relationship - would have been better to let foot slight off brakes or all off brakes, then re-apply - would have had better control, and for future events. When I tried 4 experiments on same road that night, also pushed gradually to firm hold (did not slam from start) and car shook. Noticed even slight pressure on brakes made car swerve. (Didn't look at screen to see notices).
I note your remark re turning off ACS only snow - fortunately haven't had much at all.
like you are.
Anyway, i've got over 50,000 miles on them and my question is this: can I replace just the two front (where the bad one was last) which would still leave me with 50 k miles on the rears and zero on new ones...or must i replace all 4 because of the mileage difference that would result? thanks for the help someone...P.S. i may try 4 Michelins per Consumer Reports last tire review, but that'll be a $1000+ expense and i just went on a fixed income....thank u
Good to hear from you. From your previous posts you've tested the Outlander on difficult South American road conditions that most of us will never see, (even in Southern Ontario!).
For less experienced drivers though, reliance on ASC to keep out of trouble in tricky road conditions should be good advice even though having the ASC suddenly do its own thing takes a bit of getting used to. As you indicated, the safe thing for drivers in these circumstances is to slow down!
I have a lot of praise for these tires. I think they have been very good indeed especially on inhospitable terrain where they were used 90 % of the time. In my opinion, these tires fit nicely with the overall image of the Outlander GT as a capable and reliable 4WD SUV.
The tires, when they were new, created noise. However it appears nowadays that that noise has diminished, and that phenomenon may be attributed to the natural wearing off of the rubber and the loss of the 7 mm groove depth.
My new Outlander GT 2012 will kept its OEM tires (i.e. Good Year), but I will buy a set of four Yokohama Geolander A/T-S to bring with me when shipping this car to Norway (Europe).
I am aware that in the last 2-years brand new tires have appeared on the market and perhaps they may be superior to the Geolander. However, I may say, it can be scientifically demonstrated that if you want tires with good grip in all terrain, the design of the grooves and deepness are essential. If the grooves have an aggressive design (pattern), the tires will be noisier, I think.
I drove the Outlander XLS 2008 to Alaska (Dead Horse town) with the original tires. Although the road was without tarmac, the road itself was very well maintained. The OEM tires were no match and the overall performance was poor (with the exception of the tire’s noise that was minimal).
I think, although I have not yet gained experience, that if you want to take your Outlander on inhospitable terrain the best choice may be the combination of tires and wheels, i.e. 215/70R16. Few people will like to have 2, 4-set of alloy wheels at home; for this last situation perhaps 225/60R18 will be useful.
South American roads (no tarmac) commonly called “ripio” are very hard for any type of tires.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
The other one I'm looking at is the Goodyear Fortera Tripltread, but it's very costly. However, it is mountain/snowflake certified for severe snow storms.
i'm going to switch out to new tires next month. has anyone run MIchelins?
I will be in Norway and Scandinavian countries for about 6-months. From there I will make my way to Moscow (Russia) and tour the south of Russia (e.g. Sochi ski resort).
I am just an adventurer. I get more of the money from bank loans. During my adventure I rent my house and go away. I am lucky because my wife also like to do the same. My children are adult now, so not commitments. To do what I do is a lot of fun. Live is very short man. I do this before I get serious ill or decrepit.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
Definitely a worthy replacement tire.
I bought a new 2012 Outlander... still the same Goodyear garbage. I'm starting my new tire fund now, knowing that I'll only get about 26k miles out of them...
Congrats on the new ride!
The grooves of the Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S ought to be softened or smoothed a bit to decrease the tire noise that is very evident when they are new (perhaps with a few exceptions). Most probably Yokohama will manufacture the A/T-S (which are very good indeed in any weather conditions) with a softer groove pattern (or little less aggressive look).
I have done a quick search about tires that may have the same grip as the Geolandar but with much less noise. They are: Falken HS-439 (Eurowinter), 225/60R18, $160.00 each; Falken HS-439 (Eurowinter) 225/55R18, $185.00. Equally: the Continental Winter Contact TS 830P, 225/60R18, $282.00 each. The A/T-S 225/55R18 is about $215.
Reviews about these tires give 4.5 stars (from 5-star excellent) to the Winter Contact and 4.0 for the Falken HS-439 for driving in snow/ice. I do not have any facts about the tire noise, but independent tire testers give both types of tires 4-stars on noise. The same independent testers give the A/T-S 2-3 stars on noise.
When I bought my 2010 GT I did a deal with my dealership (CEO) where he will buy my OEM tires. I do not remember but I think he gave me $450-$500 for the four tires. I ordered from Tirerack the A/T-S to be shipped directly to the dealer’s address. The dealer balanced the new tires and kept the OEM tires. Remember the tire man will balance your tire with sticking/adhesive weights (5 gm -10 gm weights). The original wheel from Japan came with balance weights of 30 gm -50 gm -70 gm. My wheels (after the dealer returned my car to me) were packed with 10 to 15 little balance weights because they usually do not stock balancing weights above 10 gm. If you do not like the new look of your wheel packed with so many little balancing weights you may order adhesive balancing weights heavier than 10 gr.
Here are the part numbers: MN103216 (15 gram), MN103217 (20 gram), MN103218 (25 gram), MN103219 (30 gram), MN103220 (35 gram), MN 103221 (40 gram), MN103223 (50 gram).
You may order these weights before the dealer balances your wheels and give the weights to the tire man when balancing the wheels. If the tire man needs 50 grams to balance one point of your wheel he most probably will stick onto your wheel 5 (10 gram) or 10 (5 gram). You just give him only one 50-gram balancing weight and the tire man will be happy to do it. Talk with the tire man first and make clear to him/her your wishes.
Tire Rack does not deal with Falken tires so you may need to look for another company, e.g. 1010tires.com or discount tires, etc.
I think good car handling (zig/zag curved roads) depends mainly on the electronics that accompany the car for maneuvering at high speed (e.g. Tarmac, Snow, and Look). I was on Vancouver Island, on my way to Tofino, and it happens that a Subaru Forester (it looked very new) wanted to have a go on those curved roads by harassing me behind my Outlander. The speed limit was 55-60 miles per hour. Light rain was falling (wet roads) on the road. Based on my past experience driving this car I set the car to snow driving and set the cruise control to 50 miles per hour (only to get the Forester out of my sight). I drove the car for about 45 minutes without changing the cruise control setting on these curving roads and after 15 minutes I did not seen anymore the Forester harassing me at all. Suddenly I remembered that my tires were the OEM tires (Goodyear) and not the Yokohama A/T-S!
Perhaps 90 % of drivability (safety) of the GT rests in its front limited slip differential that the Subaru Forester does not have, even the Outback does not have it. Based on this past experience I may change the Good Year OEM tires after 25K – 30K for the Falken.
Today I have installed 5-tires on my 5- full size alloy wheels. My original Goodyear tires are still operational. They still have 2 mm of deepness (groove), and I am keeping those tires for later use.
I am preparing the car for my next project that consists of driving to Sochi (Russia) for the Winter Olympics in February 2014. I bought 5-tires Falken HS449 (Eurowinter) 225/60R18. The result of changing the OEM tire profile can be sensed almost immediately. The ride is smoother, silent, and consumption of petrol seems to have decreased. Road imperfections are not as noticeable. In summary the ride is much better.
Each tire has the "winter" logo which is a requirement in some countries in Europe when driving in winter
Changing the stock tires to 225/60R18 was the best action I did to drive in Russia. The roads in Russia are horrendous with few exceptions near Moscow and St. Petersburg. 10,000 miles of use and they still look very good indeed.