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manhonda.com is another great parts resource. They have every genuine Honda part and accessory plus aftermarket performance stuff. And, they're a Honda dealer. Prices are generally very good too.
Will the CRV help alleviate that somewhat?
Of course the other car is a Civic Hatch so, anything bigger than a shoe feels larger to me.
Doesn't look like it would contain any spills, though. Also doesn't seem like it would cover the extra floor space from moving the rear seats forward (hard to tell for sure). Handa is cheaper than Manchester in this case ($136 vs. $141).
I'd prefer the rubberized one with a lip to contain spills. My Forester came with one standard; for our Legacy we paid about $80 for an OE one.
I'm 5'11" or so, though I usually round up to 6' even. Try the front passenger seat out if you're gonna sit there for long periods, just make sure you can get comfortable.
If you wanna see tight, try a Miata, I had to modify the seat track to fit in it. Still, I wouldn't take it on long trips, it just doesn't have the leg room.
No doubt the CR-V sits higher than an Outback. It's a little higher than the Forester, even. BTW, they just announced the Forester 2.5XT, which will have 210hp and a whopping 235 lb-ft of torque, the most in any sport/cute. They'll arrive in June if you wanted to wait to see those.
-juice
Thanks!
Steve
Is this OK or is it low ?
How "new" is your CR-V? Engines take a few thousand miles to break-in. Your mileage may increase over the first 10,000 miles.
Where are you driving? Winter weather typically lowers average fuel economy by 1 or 2 mpg. I average 25-26 during the summer and 23-24 during the dead of winter. The cold air, different formula fuel, and longer warm up times all contribute to lower mpg.
I am driving in New Jersey
Thanks
http://cartalk.cars.com/Survey/Results/Repair-Costs/rc-top-bot.ht- ml
Go to 1998, CR-V is rated as having the highest repair costs in the entire survey? I checked other years and it doesn't seem to appear, was that model year any worse than the others? It wasn't the first year of production.
I was checking Miatas since I'm considering a '99, but that also rates poorly in the survey. But other year Miatas make the top 10 lowest repair costs. In this case, '99 was the first model year.
-juice
The problem appears to be the way the survey was conducted. It's a self selected population, which means the population surveyed are those people who found the survey on the website and decided to respond, which doesn't make for a valid statistical population.
If you look at the actual reported costs charts, there are no responses for 1998 CR-Vs in the following categories: brake, exhaust, cooling system, air conditioning, electrical, suspension/steering, automatic transmission, or manual transmission.
In the Engine category it says 60% of the 1998 CR-V owners responded that they had engine work done. The average cost of maintenance for those responses was $1520. Sounds like one person had an engine problem not covered by warranty and has therefore skewed the results.
“There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies, and statistics” - Disraeli as (mis)quoted by Mark Twain.
They reamed the '99 Miata, which is a model I'm considering upgrading to.
-juice
Which is why I rely more on the reliability data published by Consumer Reports. When they don't have enough data to provide a rating they don't.
JM2C
BTW...they rate the Miata as "exceptional" in reliability. Have fun!
2025 Toyota Crown Signia Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
Two Idahoans find Canadian car not worth price
What You Need to Know About Canadian Cars in the U.S.
Insurance may also be an issue:
insur_suvs "is it possible to buy a CR-V from Japan?" Feb 14, 2003 11:50pm
Steve, Host
Thanks for the links.
2025 Toyota Crown Signia Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
I've had to use my spare twice (darned nails!). Undo the bolts and lift the tire off. Not a big deal. Getting the spare tire cover back on and aligned correctly is the hard part.
The reason I am asking is I saw a bike rack in a shop the other day that attached to back of vehicles with the external spare tire. You have to leave the tire at home or throw it in the back and then put the bike rack where the tire was. Anybody ever used one of these or removed spare tire?
I've seen 2 kinds of spare tire bike racks. One has brackets and straps that mount to the tire itself. Here's an example of one over-the-tire model:
The other kind has a plate with a post that sticks out that bolts to the same bolts as the spare tire, but then you can mount the spare tire over it. An example of the plate mount kind:
The tire is full-sized and comes with the same rim used for the other tires. If you have an LX, you get a steel rim. Buy an EX and your spare rides on an alloy rim just like the other four.
Many thanks to you both! I'm still hoping to buy a V this summer.
Bob346 - What happened is normal.
4X4 and AWD systems do not power all four wheels. Well... they do... but not in all circumstances. A typical system will send power to both the front and rear axle.
Each axle has a differential that sends power to the wheels (think posi-traction). The differential also allows one wheel on the axle to spin faster or slower than the other. If this did not happen, the car would not turn very well.
A side affect to this is the fact that a free spinning wheel will get all the power. The wheel with the least resistance will get all the power. If one wheel is spinning, power is sent to it and not the one that has traction. Your wife had this happen on both the front and rear axles.
There are ways to prevent this. One is a locked differential. These should only be used when driving on slippery surfaces and are most common in off-road vehicles (modified Jeeps). Another is a limited slip differential. These allow only a certain amount of power to leak out the sides, not all of it. Hence the term "limited slip".
The CR-V does not have either of these. In fact, most small SUVs do not. The Subaru Forester is the exception. Soob offers a limited slip on their top line model.
So within each axle, power will take the path of least resistance, think of it that way. If one side is on ice, that tire will spin and get all the power, while the other basically sits there.
But you do have that same situation on two axles, so at least two tires will get some power.
A couple of things Honda could do:
* add traction control
* add a limited-slip differential (torsen or viscous)
-juice
Edit: varmint beat me to it. Forester does get a LSD on the rear axle on XS and XS premium models. The XT (turbo) also gets it. RAV4 has the option, I think Liberty too.
* add traction control
* add a limited-slip differential (torsen or viscous)"
They already have a third option with the VTM4 system used in the Pilot and MDX. It's a clutch pack which creates something similar to a locker. It locks the two half shafts together. It automatically engages and disengages just like the rear diff in the RT4WD set-up. Therefore it's safe for use on dry roads.
Forgot about the RAV4. Thanks.
I think simple traction control is the cheapest solution, I'm surprised noone offers it in this class. You can get traction+stability control in a basic Ford Focus.
-juice
Ditto on traction control. It works well enough on my wife's TL.
How much did you folks get? We're past 2 feet in our DC suburb!
-juice
We had a 626 and a Corolla get stuck basically right in front of my house, what were they thinking?
-juice
Thanks.
John
Probably the bumpers will get body colored as some say is available in Canada.
But here's the thing - you don't want to increase unsprung weight too much, else you'll end up with a stiff ride that bounds up and down. The spring rates are set according to the stock unsprung weight.
So forget about 18"s. They'll weight several pounds more than the OE factory alloys, and easily overwhelm your suspension. Unless you go with aftermarket springs with a higher spring rate.
17"s, maybe, but even that is a stretch. A Plus Two would take you to size 215/55R17. Those would be some pricey but sweet tires. But that tiny sidewall would mean a stiff ride, and don't even think about going off road with those tires.
But I dunno, the CR-V isn't tuned to be sporting, seems like the wrong vehicle to start with if the goal is ultimate handling. A WRX wagon would be better suited, or maybe a Protoge5 or Matrix.
-juice
For 2004, we might see a new exterior color and a few minor tweaks.
On top of that, the rain gutter on the back of my house (snd story) fell off under the weight of the ice and snow. I'm all snowed out.