Makes one wonder about the so called "dealer prep" if they leave the tires at 60 psi !!
I've got an LS with the 16" tires and I like them because it gives a bit more sidewall when falling into a pothole. Living in NY, the narrower, taller tires are also a more practical choice for a CUV and a little bit better for winter traction (not as much as a better tread though). I'm really amazed how the trend has gone towards 20" and beyond over the past few years. (Fine for a show car, but toss those rims in the trash at the first pothole)
This plus sizing gains sharper tire turning response at the expense of ride comfort (suspension should take into effect less sidewall cushioning so going to large rims tires may feel harsh over bumps if the car wasn't already designed for that) In a CUV I'd prefer the ability to take bumps over sharper steering response. (sports car is another animal all together)
That link reminds me of when I had a loaner car when our previous car was at the body shop. It wouldn't start (Olds Intrique, ended up being a fried computer.) Anyway, the shop sent their mechanic in his Tahoe on like 24" rims. He had to stop, back up and hit my driveway perfectly straight to not scratch his rims on the curb lip. Look at any of those rims used, they are scraped up.
I didn't check my Outlanders tire pressure until it was about 6 months old, it was about 45 psi then. I didn't lower the pressure because it was riding fine. Now I have pretty good wear on the center of the tire with about 23K on the car.
2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
The Subaru Forester and the Outback (2010) have the rear coil + shock absorber as one unit. The Toyota Land Cruiser, the rear suspension is like the Outlander XLS. The 2010 Lexus 350 has the rear suspension like the 2.4L SE Outlander (Coil + shock in one unit).
A cargo load of about the weight of 3 adult passengers usually drops the rear suspension of my XLS AWD for about 2-3 inches. The self levelled xenon light didn’t react to this weight accordingly (as the brochure says).
I adventured with this car to Alaska (Dead Horse) and indeed I kept an average speed in not paved road of about 50 miles per hour. The XLS was very good, socked the bumps, mud, and stones pretty well.
A cargo load of about the weight of 3 adult passengers usually drops the rear suspension of my XLS AWD for about 2-3 inches. The self levelled xenon light didn’t react to this weight accordingly (as the brochure says).
How do you know that? You mean to say the auto-levelling in the Outlander does not work as described?
Are the rear suspension diffrerent on the XLS and 2.4 SE models for 2009. The reaason I ask is because the XLS seems rough ridding to me, I know the tire account for some of this but may be the suspension, if different, is also the answer.
hI i have an 07 outlander with 20k miles on it. i just picked it up from the dealer a month ago. so far i love the car love its power its look everything about it. BUT im wondering if i have a steering or suspension problem. In highway driving when hitting bumps and breaking at the same time example the car steering goes left and then when i try to straighten it out it might go right.. I had this problem before with an envoy it could have been either one of the suspension arms or ball joints. could i be having the same problem?? should i bring it in to the dealer or have my local mechanic just look at it?
Take it back to the dealer, you bought it from, it is still on warranty. If they would found it is not covered, try the trick with them not checking/ fixing it when it was sold to you. If you end up paying (part damaged on a pothole, etc) go to place which is cheaper, or the one you trust.
its certified and still under warranty, i am the second owner and it was bought from a mitsu dealer, clean car fax and everything looks brand spankin new. covered under the 5 year and 60,000 mile warranty still but lost out on the power train warranty no biggie i can by a extended after.. should i take it to a mechanic i trust just to have it checked?? i want to rotate the tires anyways.
Comments
I've got an LS with the 16" tires and I like them because it gives a bit more sidewall
when falling into a pothole. Living in NY, the narrower, taller tires are also a more practical choice for a CUV and a little bit better for winter traction (not as much as a better tread though). I'm really amazed how the trend has gone towards 20" and beyond over the past few years. (Fine for a show car, but toss those rims in the trash at the first pothole)
This plus sizing gains sharper tire turning response at the expense of ride comfort (suspension should take into effect less sidewall cushioning so going to large rims tires may feel harsh over bumps if the car wasn't already designed for that) In a CUV I'd prefer the ability to take bumps over sharper steering response. (sports car is another animal all together)
http://www.discounttire.com/images/plusSizingGraphic.gif
Tell me how this SUV fairs after the first large pothole!!! ;-)
http://image.sporttruck.com/f/14376998/0511st_04_z+truck_wheels_and_tires_plus_s- izing+cadillac_escalade_26s.jpg
I didn't check my Outlanders tire pressure until it was about 6 months old, it was about 45 psi then. I didn't lower the pressure because it was riding fine. Now I have pretty good wear on the center of the tire with about 23K on the car.
A cargo load of about the weight of 3 adult passengers usually drops the rear suspension of my XLS AWD for about 2-3 inches. The self levelled xenon light didn’t react to this weight accordingly (as the brochure says).
I adventured with this car to Alaska (Dead Horse) and indeed I kept an average speed in not paved road of about 50 miles per hour. The XLS was very good, socked the bumps, mud, and stones pretty well.
How do you know that? You mean to say the auto-levelling in the Outlander does not work as described?
My headlamps was pointing to the trees or above the traffic signal on the road. This only happen when the car was loaded.