Slugline - Good link. I've read that before, but forgotten about it. Congrats on your milestone post. ;-) Engine noise is only a problem when you rev that little bugger up above 4,000 rpms. But the same can be said for any car. The real trouble is tire noise. This is where the '02 has a marked improvement, IMHO. As the owner of a '99, I noted the familiar tire song when I drove the '02, but it was significantly muted.
- For the earlier post about 5 speed gearing: Raise the 5th gear if you like, but leave that 1st gear nice and low. It's great for getting out of tough spots and makes for good acceleration when you really need it.
Juice - Thanks for the info on the Goodyears. I hadn't read that. I've been to tirerack.com (which is where I read about the Aquatreds), but I'll also check that other site. I'll also gotten decent reponses about Mich X1's. I'm a bit concerned about snow performance with those.
Plus one on the rim would be nice, but, if I were going to spend that kind of money, I would get a set of steelies and mount snow tires on them. Then I can get the GTs for Spring/Summer/Fall and put the Winter treads on for snowy months and off-road trips.
Aren't the tires the same as before? I guess there is more sound deadening material.
My Forester came with the same Desert Duelers offered on the CR-V, same size even, and they were a relatively loud tire. After my tire swap road noise diminished.
I recall C&D tested a CR-V when it got the power boost in '99, and the tires were BF Goodrich. The thing was a full 3 dB quieter at highway speeds. What a difference tires can make.
varmit: my buddy Hutch also checked the Tire Rack surveys, but I guess the tires had not been out long enough for those problems to creep up.
juice: yep, mine's an auto-tranny 2000 CR-V EX. It runs around 2500 rpm cruising at 55 mph (soon to be the speed limit in Houston!), then pegs exactly 3000 rpm at 75 mph. During these passages, the tires and wind are definitely the lead players in the cacophany, with the engine playing a rather muted third chair.
varmit: My set of Bridgestone Dueler H/Ls from The Tire Rack should be installed by the end of the week. I'll be sure to let you know how I like 'em. So far, this is looking like a great deal. Even after paying for local mounting/balance, getting this new rubber through Tire Rack will save me more than $100 versus the local tire stores.
It's very interesting to consider Honda's factory tires for the CR-V. The Tire Rack classifies the Bridgestone Dueler H/T as a "Highway All-Season" tire for trucks, while the BF Goodrich Touring T/A falls under the "Standard Touring" category for passenger cars -- truly a reflection of the truck/car line straddled by vehicles in this class.
My choice of the H/Ls was based mostly on positive commentary from The Tire Rack and Consumer Reports. Plus, CRVIX founder Bing runs with these tires, satisfied with their performance and treadwear even after 45,000 miles. However, if I was never planning on leaving the pavement again, a passenger-car tire like Michelin X-Ones would have probably topped my list.
Oh, and in case anyone is wondering when they should start looking for new tires, let me illustrate:
yesterday while driving approx. 55-60MPH thru I-80, the wind was kinda gusting strong as my 'V sways like them old NYC subway cars. as the wind growls like mad, i still am able to control my steering but with significant effort. although bearable, wind noise can be swamped out by an iron maiden cd. the V's severe reactions to wind gusts are unpredictable.
You might be right. I might be subjecting my CR-V to a little too much "spirited" driving. Also, I have only been doing a four-tire rotation, not including the spare, so those four have been on the road for the entire time. Are you doing the same?
Anyway, if the UTQG ratings are accurate, the Dueler H/Ls should have roughly 2.5x the treadwear of these ratty ol' H/Ts, which means I should be able to look forward to 75,000 miles on the new tires.
The maintenance & repair section has a board on "Fords new 5W20 oil" Lots of members did a lot of very impressive research on this topic. If you missed it take a look you can use this info on this board. Only 41 messages.
Slugline - I'm comparing info from here and the CR-V IX, so thanks for the cross-posting. Great pics, BTW. You should take that and your rear diff fluid change and publish your own CR-V handbook.
GatorGreg recommended the Michelin X-Ones and I've seen positive reviews, but, like yourself, I do head off-road from time to time and (unlike you) I need good snow traction. In order, my priorities are traction, noise, and then tread wear as the least important. The trouble is, good all-weather traction and less noise seem to exclude one another.
Like yourself, I was only doing a four tire rotation. I let the dealer do it the first few times and that's the pattern they started. Now I have a brand new tire on one rear corner, while the rest have 53K on them. If it were possible to repair the punctured one, I'd consider that. The boyz at the dealer said they still have another 10K left in them. Since the snow is starting to fall, it's probably best to replace them now.
Yep, any SUV is going to be a challenge in strong crosswinds. I drove up to Bethel Maine this weekend. On the way up, the drive was reasonably calm and I got about 28 mpg. On the way back, there was falling snow and gusting winds. Judging by what the gas gauge is telling me, I'll bet I get around 23 mpg despite it being mostly highway driving.
slugline: 3000rpm at 75mph is pretty good. My wife's 626 hits 4000rpm at around 70mph, and it's a V6!
Those tires look mighty familiar! Mine lasted 28k miles, also with very spirited driving. Wear was nice and even, so your alignment is good.
They are rated 180BB, which means not very long lasting tread, B for heat resistance, B for wet braking. Overall, not so good, but it's a truck tire and that's the compromises it comes with.
I did a plus one, but my new tires are 460AA. Substantially longer tread life, A for heat and A for wet braking. Sure enough, 15k miles and they still look brand new, and they handle nicely. They are not a good tire for snowy climates though (Nitto NT460).
varmit: you sure it's OK for the RT4WD to drive with tires that have a different diamter? I'd get 4 new ones ASAP, or try to find one used tire that matches the other 3 more closely.
The difference in diameter isn't all that significant. Just in case, I underinflated the former spare just a bit and then overinflated the others. I drove about 500 miles over the weekend without any trouble.
good to here because i paid 22740 including front muds and security system. Looks like i paid 1400 or 1500 over cost. Not bad for car in limited supply with ggod demand.
I looked at the highlander but the equivalent to the CRV EX with 4V, 4WD, sunroof, privacy glass, remote entry, aluminum wheels was about 28K. A big difference (23%) over 22.7K.
The highlander is defintaley bigger looking from the outside and a little more plush in my opinion, but interior volume is very comparable, especially the back seat where the CRV has much more leg room. Head room about the same and hip room better in Highlander. Cargo in Highalnder a little bigger. Overall I found it hard to justify the +5K price difference so I bought the CRV.
By law you cannot use higher wattage bulbs, but Hella and Phillips do make bulbs that they claim are brighter than stock 55/60 watt bulbs. Hella makes an H4+30 they sometimes call "Xenons" with 30% brighter light, while Phillips has a super white with supposedly 50% more light. You'll pay $28 to $40 or so for a pair.
I've seen photos of both side-to-side vs. stock, and even used the Hellas for a year. They are slightly brighter. The catch is both lasted less than a year, compared to 5 years or longer for a stock halogen bulb. To me it wasn't worth it to keep replacing them.
You can go to a higher wattage bulb (80-100 watts), but then it's no longer street legal. I've heard they also do not last as long, because they run hotter.
Zops - A number of folks wanted the upcoming Pilot to have a less expensive model (to compete directly with the 4 cyl Highlander), but I would agree that the CR-V can be compared favorably.
There's definitely a difference between the CR-V and the Highlander. The CR-V was and is based off the Civic platform. The Highlander is based off the Camry platform.
That's why the highlander seems more plush than the CR-V. On and off the road the Highlander is smoother, more powerful, and more refined than the CR-V, but you pay for those attributes with your checkbook.
It's all up to you. The CR-V meets the same basic needs/wants as the Highlander, but the Highlander will be more sophisticated. It depends on what you want and how much you're willing to pay for it.
Fitzmall.com has 8 in stock and all are V6s. That's par for the course, I don't think I've ever seen a 4 banger here. At least they're finally discounting them - $900 over invoice. But an AWD V6 still starts around $28k.
It is Camry based, and fairly wide for 3-across seating. The platform was used for the RX300, so it is refined, but the pricing is definitely on the high end. Toyota just moved up to a 5/60 powertrain warranty last year, too. I hope Honda matches it.
AN had a little snippet on the Pilot, and said price would be in the $25k-30k range. I hope that's true, and we don't see a $29,999 base price on a 2WD stripped model. It's a bit boxy but seems like it'll be extremely practical.
Honda sent Toyota back to the drawing board for the Sienna after Odyssey demand was so much higher, so Pilot may do the same for Highlander.
But in terms of size it does seem like the CR-V is half way between the RAV4 and Highlander, maybe even closer to the latter.
I'm deciding between a 2002 CR-V EX and a 2002 Highlander. I like everything about the CR-V better, except the warranty, the cargo space, and the road noise. The cargo space difference is not that big of a deal. I could buy an extended warranty on the CR-V and still pay $4000 less than a Highlander. But the road noise in the Honda kind of bothers me. Does anyone have any ideas about how to reduce it, and how much it would cost? Undercoating? Carpet padding? I really like the feel of this rig over the Highlander, but I drive on the highway a lot so I'd like to do something about the road noise. Also, a dealer near me quoted me a price of $22740 (MSRP) for a CR-V EX, Auto. From what I've found that seems to be a great price. Any comments on that? Thanks.
Someone posted a little earlier that changing to a different brand of tires would markedly reduce road noise. Those Bridgestone Dueler H/T's that come standard are pretty cheap tires.
Looks like you want an 02' Aztek! The Aztek is as quiet as the Lexas RX300, has more cargo room than the CRV or the Highlander, comes standard with a V6, gets better mileage than the Highlander or the RX300, comes with more standard features than any SUV in it's class, has the same tow rating as the Highlander, it's about the same price as the CRV, has more optional features than anything in it's class, oh and it's as car like as it gets.
Hey by the way, I was wondering what the point of the CRV is anyway? Is like the apple jacks don't taste like apples? I mean the CRV can't tow anything, has limited cargo space, only comes with a 4 cyllinder, can't really off road (they even say it in their commercials), and really there are so many better choices out there why would you ever get anything like the CRV?
is that it was never meant to off-road or tow anything bigger than a tent. I disagree about the cargo space. I think it has plenty. If you need more space, the Odyssey (or the new Pilot) is for you. The V is designed to be an all-weather, all-purpose, urban runabout with an occasional jaunt to the ski slopes or campground. For that, it sits near the top of the class.
Sounds like a bigger more powerful Rav4 to me. Again what's the point. I mean look at the competition, Saturn VUE, Aztek, Escape/Tribute, Hyundai Santa Fe, all of these have far more capability. Oh well just my opinion I guess, I'll take more for my money anyday.
The CRV's quality is superior to anything except Toyota and some European brands. I like to see the Saturn,Aztek,Escape and Santa Fe when they hit 10yrs and 150,000 miles. If they make it that long!
Jeffteel - There are a number of things that you can try. As mentioned above, better tires will make a significant difference. Also, for about $200-300, you can purchase quite a bit of sound dampening material like Dynamat.
While I won't dispute CR-Vs quality, I think you are wrong on the competition. Domestic and European brands are much better and will indeed last. I know people in the Aztek and Rendezvous forums are nothing but pleased with their vehicles. No recalls or major trouble at all. I know the Escape/Tribute has had a few bumps, but I think it's a pretty well build machine for the long haul now that the kinks are out. My neighbor is a Honda guy and thinks the same thing, but his Hondas have been far from trouble free.
I actually read a review of the RAV4 and it was not very complimentary at all. RAV isn't anywhere near as good as even the old CR-V.
If I wasn't planning to keep a vehicle past its warranty period and lived somewhere where there were no accidents -- or daylight -- I might consider one.
I don't put much stock in anectodal reports....."my aunt Grace never had any trouble with her (fill in blank)". What IS credible is unbiased information taken over the course of years on makes and models. Get the last Consumer Reports Car Issue (4/01). CR takes no advertising and is unbiased as you will get on this topic. Go to the back under Reliabilty Reports. There, are surveys, tabulated over the last 10 years on specific makes and models, and trouble spots for each. Red=Good, Black=Bad. Don't look to close....hold the whole thing a ways away from your face and then look at Honda......GM......Dodge.....Chrysler....Ford....Subaru...Toyota. What you will find is that Honda, Subaru and Toyota are mostly red......Chrysler, Jeep, GM and other domestics, have lots of black. You will not beat those Japanese brands for quality and reliabilty!
The 02' Aztek looks great, they redid the exterior of the vehicle. It's also very safe, despite the crap the IIHS is trying to pull. The safety cage, which to me is the most important part of the test was maintained very well. Let's face it, your chances of getting in an accident like they are testing is remote. Wouldn't you like to know that in most cases the Azteks cage wasn't penetrated. Also wouldn't you like having side impact airbags as standard equipment. You know what else, the Aztek was rated as the most appealing vehicle for 01' by it's owners. That honor is typically held by the Lexus ES300, but not anymore, what does that say about quality?
This isn't a comparison topic - we have a very nice Pontiac Aztek discussion already well established for your reading pleasure. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Lets compare the Aztek with eveything in it's class! See if we can find anything better out there! Maybe someone will have enough insite to find something better about the CRV or the Escape, or one of those!
Is posting the same message twice your method for proving that you're twice as smart? And it's "insight", not "insite". Which is another thing entirely from the "incite" which seems to be your purpose here.
What class does the Aztek fall under? It's too big to be a small (formerly known as "mini") SUV. It's certainly heavy enough to compete with the Pilot, Highlander and JGC. It slurps fuel well enough to compete with most mid-sized utes. But I do agree that they are cheap.
Which brings us to the fact that they are "cheap" in more than one sense of the word. The fact that Aztek owners have built a fanatical defense around their odd-ball choice is really no surprize. And I don't blame them. It is a very functional vehicle. But that has nothing to do with mechanical quality or reliability. A "most appealing" survey tells us about the owners, not the vehicles.
As for safety, penetration of the safety cage is a bad thing and the lack of it is an important safety feature. But it doesn't do a lot of good if the person goes splat on the inside of that cage.
Ironically, I think the Highlander comes with the same tires. So it too can be made even quieter.
I test drove a Rendezvous and the engine is coarse and unrefined. I've also rented a Montana and was not impressed at all. Top that off with poor reliability, awful resale, and bad crash test results. Usually, if she's ugly at least she has a personality...
;-)
llofgren is spot-on about reliability, but I would add Nissan to his list. The top 7 nameplates, per CR, are Toyota, Honda, Nissan, and Subaru. Plus Lexus/Infiniti/Acura, but IMO those are redundant.
JD Power APEAL study does not say anything about quality. In fact, that's why they created it.
I didn't want any of the Honda people to get it confused with the Hybrid thing! Oh by the way, the Aztek is less than 4" longer than the CRV. It's 2" shorter than the Highlander. So if it isn't small then CRV isn't either?
Frequently if you post, and then leave for a while to get some coffee, come back and refresh your browser, the refresh will repost your last message. A little quirk of our software that happens frequently around Town Hall, and it happens to the best of us. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Only Jaguar and Lincoln placed ahead of Honda/Acura...and they belong to Ford, not GM.
"Infiniti ranks second with 219 PP100, followed by Jaguar (250 PP100), Lincoln (253 PP100) and Acura (255 PP100). Honda and Toyota tie at 278 PP100 to rank highest among non-luxury nameplates."
I just test drove a 2002 CR-V. My wife drove it home to show it to me. Anyhow, the thing had NO front seat arm rests!! Does Honda not equip the 5 speed with arm rests for ergonomic reasons relative to the stick stift? I found this disappointing.
Comments
- For the earlier post about 5 speed gearing: Raise the 5th gear if you like, but leave that 1st gear nice and low. It's great for getting out of tough spots and makes for good acceleration when you really need it.
Juice - Thanks for the info on the Goodyears. I hadn't read that. I've been to tirerack.com (which is where I read about the Aquatreds), but I'll also check that other site. I'll also gotten decent reponses about Mich X1's. I'm a bit concerned about snow performance with those.
Plus one on the rim would be nice, but, if I were going to spend that kind of money, I would get a set of steelies and mount snow tires on them. Then I can get the GTs for Spring/Summer/Fall and put the Winter treads on for snowy months and off-road trips.
> exactly do you roll over a sedan that was rated
> the least likely to roll over?
least likely to roll over doesn't mean impossible to roll over.
Consider what might have happened had you been in a Suzuki Samurai...can you say "cartwheel"?
My Forester came with the same Desert Duelers offered on the CR-V, same size even, and they were a relatively loud tire. After my tire swap road noise diminished.
I recall C&D tested a CR-V when it got the power boost in '99, and the tires were BF Goodrich. The thing was a full 3 dB quieter at highway speeds. What a difference tires can make.
varmit: my buddy Hutch also checked the Tire Rack surveys, but I guess the tires had not been out long enough for those problems to creep up.
-juice
I'll check around about the Aquatreds. In the meantime, I'll start looking at the alternatives.
varmit: My set of Bridgestone Dueler H/Ls from The Tire Rack should be installed by the end of the week. I'll be sure to let you know how I like 'em. So far, this is looking like a great deal. Even after paying for local mounting/balance, getting this new rubber through Tire Rack will save me more than $100 versus the local tire stores.
It's very interesting to consider Honda's factory tires for the CR-V. The Tire Rack classifies the Bridgestone Dueler H/T as a "Highway All-Season" tire for trucks, while the BF Goodrich Touring T/A falls under the "Standard Touring" category for passenger cars -- truly a reflection of the truck/car line straddled by vehicles in this class.
My choice of the H/Ls was based mostly on positive commentary from The Tire Rack and Consumer Reports. Plus, CRVIX founder Bing runs with these tires, satisfied with their performance and treadwear even after 45,000 miles. However, if I was never planning on leaving the pavement again, a passenger-car tire like Michelin X-Ones would have probably topped my list.
Oh, and in case anyone is wondering when they should start looking for new tires, let me illustrate:
i know, drive slower :P
maybe time for stabilizer bars or something?
Steve
Host
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Anyway, if the UTQG ratings are accurate, the Dueler H/Ls should have roughly 2.5x the treadwear of these ratty ol' H/Ts, which means I should be able to look forward to 75,000 miles on the new tires.
GatorGreg recommended the Michelin X-Ones and I've seen positive reviews, but, like yourself, I do head off-road from time to time and (unlike you) I need good snow traction. In order, my priorities are traction, noise, and then tread wear as the least important. The trouble is, good all-weather traction and less noise seem to exclude one another.
Like yourself, I was only doing a four tire rotation. I let the dealer do it the first few times and that's the pattern they started. Now I have a brand new tire on one rear corner, while the rest have 53K on them. If it were possible to repair the punctured one, I'd consider that. The boyz at the dealer said they still have another 10K left in them. Since the snow is starting to fall, it's probably best to replace them now.
Those tires look mighty familiar! Mine lasted 28k miles, also with very spirited driving. Wear was nice and even, so your alignment is good.
They are rated 180BB, which means not very long lasting tread, B for heat resistance, B for wet braking. Overall, not so good, but it's a truck tire and that's the compromises it comes with.
I did a plus one, but my new tires are 460AA. Substantially longer tread life, A for heat and A for wet braking. Sure enough, 15k miles and they still look brand new, and they handle nicely. They are not a good tire for snowy climates though (Nitto NT460).
varmit: you sure it's OK for the RT4WD to drive with tires that have a different diamter? I'd get 4 new ones ASAP, or try to find one used tire that matches the other 3 more closely.
-juice
-juice
If true, then they are aggresssively pricing them and liitle room to negotiate in my opinion.
-juice
1400 or 1500 over cost. Not bad for car in limited supply with ggod demand.
-juice
remote entry, aluminum wheels was about 28K.
A big difference (23%) over 22.7K.
The highlander is defintaley bigger looking from the outside and a little more plush in my opinion, but interior volume is very comparable, especially the back seat where the CRV has much more leg room.
Head room about the same and hip room better in Highlander.
Cargo in Highalnder a little bigger.
Overall I found it hard to justify the +5K price difference so I bought the CRV.
I've seen photos of both side-to-side vs. stock, and even used the Hellas for a year. They are slightly brighter. The catch is both lasted less than a year, compared to 5 years or longer for a stock halogen bulb. To me it wasn't worth it to keep replacing them.
You can go to a higher wattage bulb (80-100 watts), but then it's no longer street legal. I've heard they also do not last as long, because they run hotter.
-juice
But purely in terms of passenger space the CR-V can hold its own.
-juice
That's why the highlander seems more plush than the CR-V. On and off the road the Highlander is smoother, more powerful, and more refined than the CR-V, but you pay for those attributes with your checkbook.
It's all up to you. The CR-V meets the same basic needs/wants as the Highlander, but the Highlander will be more sophisticated. It depends on what you want and how much you're willing to pay for it.
Ty
It is Camry based, and fairly wide for 3-across seating. The platform was used for the RX300, so it is refined, but the pricing is definitely on the high end. Toyota just moved up to a 5/60 powertrain warranty last year, too. I hope Honda matches it.
AN had a little snippet on the Pilot, and said price would be in the $25k-30k range. I hope that's true, and we don't see a $29,999 base price on a 2WD stripped model. It's a bit boxy but seems like it'll be extremely practical.
Honda sent Toyota back to the drawing board for the Sienna after Odyssey demand was so much higher, so Pilot may do the same for Highlander.
But in terms of size it does seem like the CR-V is half way between the RAV4 and Highlander, maybe even closer to the latter.
-juice
Hey by the way, I was wondering what the point of the CRV is anyway? Is like the apple jacks don't taste like apples? I mean the CRV can't tow anything, has limited cargo space, only comes with a 4 cyllinder, can't really off road (they even say it in their commercials), and really there are so many better choices out there why would you ever get anything like the CRV?
The Aztek... LOL
I actually read a review of the RAV4 and it was not very complimentary at all. RAV isn't anywhere near as good as even the old CR-V.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
What class does the Aztek fall under? It's too big to be a small (formerly known as "mini") SUV. It's certainly heavy enough to compete with the Pilot, Highlander and JGC. It slurps fuel well enough to compete with most mid-sized utes. But I do agree that they are cheap.
Which brings us to the fact that they are "cheap" in more than one sense of the word. The fact that Aztek owners have built a fanatical defense around their odd-ball choice is really no surprize. And I don't blame them. It is a very functional vehicle. But that has nothing to do with mechanical quality or reliability. A "most appealing" survey tells us about the owners, not the vehicles.
As for safety, penetration of the safety cage is a bad thing and the lack of it is an important safety feature. But it doesn't do a lot of good if the person goes splat on the inside of that cage.
I test drove a Rendezvous and the engine is coarse and unrefined. I've also rented a Montana and was not impressed at all. Top that off with poor reliability, awful resale, and bad crash test results. Usually, if she's ugly at least she has a personality...
;-)
llofgren is spot-on about reliability, but I would add Nissan to his list. The top 7 nameplates, per CR, are Toyota, Honda, Nissan, and Subaru. Plus Lexus/Infiniti/Acura, but IMO those are redundant.
JD Power APEAL study does not say anything about quality. In fact, that's why they created it.
-juice
Darn it! You guys are right! GM is behind Honda!
Oh ya but they are ahead of everbody else! Honda is 2nd and GM is 3rd. Look out Honda!!
Steve
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http://www.jdpa.com/studies/pressrelease.asp?StudyID=585&CatID=1
Only Jaguar and Lincoln placed ahead of Honda/Acura...and they belong to Ford, not GM.
"Infiniti ranks second with 219 PP100, followed by Jaguar (250 PP100), Lincoln (253 PP100) and Acura (255 PP100). Honda and Toyota tie at 278 PP100 to rank highest among non-luxury nameplates."
rofl!
Thanks!
Tom