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If the turbo car is throwing a code, now's the time for a diagnostic tool to help point us in the right direction. I certainly wouldn't want any whining sounds with a turbo mounted onto the engine, either!
After the car is cool, take the radiator cap off and start the car. Let it run until it warms up so the fluid flows. Keep fluid in your reserve tank because as the air burps out of your radiator the fluid will back fill from the reserver tank. Check it every day for a while.
I had my thermostat replaced three weeks ago and everything was fine until this week. I burped the system and it gurgled for 1.5 minutes. It sucked in more than half of the reserve tank fluid. Everything is good now. I probably did not have a bad thermostat in the first place.
Two ways to check if you have a head gasket problem - check reserve tank fluid and oil; Smell reserve tank fluid. If it smells like exhaust or fuel there may be head gasket problem. Check your oil to see if there is water in it. Also indicative of a failing head gasket.
Typical HG problems occur on 1996 - 1998 models. It was fixed after that I've been told.
It has never been a problem on the 3.0L and 3.6L H6 engines.
As far as the radiator goes, for a while there was a "burp plug" on the top of the radiator near where the upper radiator hose enters the unit. That is good to remove when trying to get the air out. On newer models, the shape of the radiator was revised to make the cap the highest point, with the rest of it sloping toward the cap.
Parking on an inclined surface (with the nose up) or on automotive ramps will help as well.
My 2011 Legacy has 650 miles when CEL, Cruise, Brake, lights came on while driving. Dropped off car at Puente Hills Subaru Sunday night. Was just told that it is an engine misfire and that they are still working on it.
Am I in store for a ton of problems?
I've researched this issue and have not found a definitive answer, just a bunch of "loose gas cap" posts. :confuse:
With so many CEL problems, I am surprised no law firm has started a calss action suit yet. I have lost lots of money on my Legacy, and I have no doubt I am not the only one!
a. It is presumed that a manufacturer or its dealer is unable to repair or correct a nonconformity within a reasonable time if, within the first 18,000 miles of operation or during the period of two years following the date of original delivery of the motor vehicle to a consumer, whichever is the earlier date:
(1) Substantially the same nonconformity has been subject to repair three or more times by the manufacturer or its dealer and the nonconformity continues to exist; or
(2) The motor vehicle is out of service by reason of repair for one or more nonconformities for a cumulative total of 20 or more calendar days since the original delivery of the motor vehicle and a nonconformity continues to exist.
b. The presumption contained in subsection a. of this section shall apply against a manufacturer only if the manufacturer has received written notification, by or on behalf of the consumer, by certified mail return receipt requested, of a potential claim pursuant to the provisions of this act and has had one opportunity to repair or correct the defect or condition within 10 calendar days following receipt of the notification. Notification by the consumer shall take place any time after the motor vehicle has had substantially the same nonconformity subject to repair two or more times or has been out of service by reason of repair for a cumulative total of 20 or more calendar days.
I assume that all the states lemon laws are similar. They are all online
You've had a car for the best part of a year, and up to now it's been pretty much trouble free. This past weekend you suddenly have a 'first event' problem and before you even have the dealer check it out you are already talking 'Lemon Law' and Class Action Lawsuits. What's wrong with this picture?
Now the problem, about a month after we got it, I got the code for the rear o2 sensor passenger side and just replaced it with OEM from dealer, and cleared the code. I just blamed it on time.
In third week of February I got the p0154 code, bank 2 sensor 1 no indication. I Replaced this one with OEM also and cleared the code. But this time the code keeps coming back after
20 miles or so. Well now put my meter on it at the connection when the sensor connects to the harness at the manifold and here are the reads with engine running.
harness side: blue- 3.77 white - 3.77 blk(under blue) - 14.0 blk(under white) - 14.0
sensor side: yellow - 3.18 red - 14.0 white(under yellow) 3.77 blk(under red)3.77
I also damp wiped the throttle body, but it didn't need it.
there were no vacuum leaks found. and no brittleness in the hoses.
Fuses are good
With the mileage I don't feel a tuneup is neccesary, as the car runs like a top.
Question is, where do I go from here, ECM reflash?
TIA
I had a misfire and it turned out to be the ignition coil. I had rodents in the engine bay and they chewed up some of the wires, too.
after about 50 - start, wait 30 seconds, and shut off cycles, on a fully warmed up engine the light went away on it's own and as soon as it did that I erased the p00154 code, No indication, and rechecked it.
I have the Haines book which I've used for my 02 OB vdc, but wanted to try the Chiltons book. While they are quite similar, there are differences.
I think that between the two books I have better reference material to go by.
Just do it before it goes out completely and shoots oil in places it shouldn't be. It ran like a champ right before I traded it in for a Ford F-150, got a great deal so I couldn't pass it up. Also replace the knock sensor and the cam shaft sensors too and the timing belt. Don't hesitate cuz it will screw you out of money.
After an oil change 4 weeks ago, now it starts at 21+_ and takes forever to count up to the average. (On a recent trip, 120 miles 'downhill' it took all of that 120 miles to stabilize at 26 mpg.
Before this started, we, on average, got 28 - 29.5 mpg, now the mileage is down to 25 - 26 mpg. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS COME ON, same gas station, same route every day...65 miles to and from Carson City, Nevada and Reno, Nevada...all freeway driving.
Oil used is full synthetic Castrol.
Dealer says nothing wrong.....makes no difference whether or not the average mpg is ascending or descending. WAIT A MINUTE!! Something had to have happened to make it change from a start of 31 and working down, to starting at 21 and going up, with the actual mileage dropping 3 - 4 MPG.
Any thoughts as to what might be the problem?
Is the average economy you stated above (28-29.5 vs. 25-26 now) calculated or based on that readout? If calculated, then something has changed (or is wrong, such as a sensor providing erroneous/poor feedback). If taken on faith (e.g., based on readout only), I would do some calculations before getting too concerned.
Read it, then do what it says. The day of working blind are over! Could not be simpler. Modern cars are NOT more complicated...that is mere shop=talk...get a cheap code reader...if you don't understand the code, Google it and a hundred people will have already posted the solution.
Don't work blind.
Everyone should have their own $50 code reader. Its made owning a car soooo much simpler and cheaper to own.
Cam sensor? Crank sensor? MAF? MAP? Knock sensor? Bad plug wire? Couldn't be easier. Just plug it in...press the button. Done. Never...ever...need to get suckered by a shop. Remember AAA? They report that a full 50% of all car repairs are unneeded & unnecessary. Its true! Save grief...save money...get a code reader! (the cheapest ones are fine)
Every Subaru owner knows this. Telling the owner of a 95 that they need an OBD1 reader is nuts. If ya dont know an answer why do ya say ya do?
when they scratch their head and say I don't know, they are really saying, sucker! because when your not around the mechanics are joking about what a piece of crap a car is when they are all by themselves without management.
MC
Good luck, though.
In short...gang....don't let these dealerships get away with the loose gas cap crap...mark your caps and make sure you get the info documented before you take your vehicle into the dealership for the umpteenth time for the warning light issue. There is no doubt in my mind that Subaru is trying to cover their asses because they do NOT know how to fix the problem.
Feb 2012- code P0304- misfire cylinder 4, replaced all spark plugs
March 2012- misfire Cyl 2 and 4- update on ECM done
July 2012- code P0304- loose connector on ignition coil 4
will wait and see what next code is ---