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Oldsmobile Aurora Transmission

holly2883holly2883 Member Posts: 2
I have a 1997 Oldsmobile aurora...The transmission acts like it has no power at all it wont go into any gears at all even reverse or drive unless you get the rpms up to like 5000 then it will go into gear but to get it to drive you have to stay at the high rpms....just wondering if it is the tranny or something else causing it...and also the car has always started then one day someone left a light on in it and the battery went dead so we jumped it and it started right up....then like 2 weeks later went to start it and it started right up i turned it off then went to start it again and no noice at all only a clicking sound in the fuse box in the back seat....tried to jump it and still same thing...and also my turning signals come on but dont flash just stay on solid just wondering if anyone else has had these problems.

Comments

  • ghenkelmannghenkelmann Member Posts: 3
    I have recently purchased a 2001 3.5 Aurora, and was advised by the previous owner that the transmission occasionally had bouts of rough shifting. I experienced this today, and it is like popping the clutch between gears. Even shifing from Park to drive, the power train "clunks". Shifts occur where they are supposed to, but there is no cushion. I'm told that turning off the engine and restarting usually solved the problem in the past. We'll see.
    Can anyone point me in the right direction? Past inquiries at the garage came up empty, says the prior owner.
  • pullchordpullchord Member Posts: 4
    Driving my '98 Aurora (140K miles) at about 80 when I feel a slight "clunk". 15 seconds later, a HUGE "clunk" (felt like I hit something). I immediately pull over, but as I'm slowing, the engine is missing and there is some jerking deceleration. As I coast the last few feet in neutral, the car jerks to a stop - I never touched the brakes. I managed to 'baby' it off the freeway, but it was stuck in 4th gear. Got it into a gas station. Checked the tranny fluid (engine running) and it was surging up & down in the filler neck. Engine was idling all over the place too from 500 up to 1500 rpm. Tried reverse - no reverse. Only forward in 4th. The tow home cost $300. Next day I check trans fluid again, and it's empty. Put some in, started her up, put her in gear and she dropped smoothly into 1st. Tried reverse, it worked. BUT, just coasting in neutral in the driveway, I kept feeling these "grabs" like someone stepping on the brakes. At one point, the car would not move in neutral. Got out & tried to push, and could not. It will go in gear, but feels like something is hanging up in the tranny. Any guesses? Love this car, but I'm done with the majot repairs.
  • johnnieboyjohnnieboy Member Posts: 16
    To the 1995 and 1998 aurora owners with tranny issues.

    I have a 1998 Aurora with 175000kms on it. My tranny went at 75,000. I started it on the garage pad, heard a large noise and stopped the car. I started it later and everything seemed fine, One week later, the gears all went. Maybe there was a weakness in the tranny--I do not know.

    I checked with various tranny rebuilders and they told me that since it is a cadillac tranny, the costs of rebuilding could cost more that getting one from GM. I got a new tranny with 80,000 Kms warranty. The new tranny still runs as smoothly and perfectly as a tranny can ---as does my entire 1998 Aurora, which I intend to keep for many years. I just bought myself a 2008 Solstice GXP as a fun roadster car since e I could not find an adequate replacement for the Aurora---so now I have 2, which is silly, but fun!!!.
  • pullchordpullchord Member Posts: 4
    Johnnyboy, how much did that cost? I've heard upwards of $3000. I love my Aurora so much I am tempted to go for it against the protests of my friends and family ("good money after bad...."). Easy for them to say (they all drive premium leased cars). Until you have owned and driven an Aurora, you don't know what falling in love with a car really is.
  • hilltopperdadhilltopperdad Member Posts: 2
    I had the exact same issue. It is in the shop currently and I am waiting on them to take a look at it. They are going to drop the transmission to look. ($225). The codes indicated the speed sensor was not functioning properly... that makes the pressure go up.. the result is the hard shifting. I will know more tomorrow.
  • ghenkelmannghenkelmann Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, Hilltopperdad, for the update. I've had this problem occur twice since taking possession of the car in October. Please let me know whart you find out. The previous owner said he'd had it in the garage, but not faults were detected.
    I really like the car, and am glad that I purchased it. If this can be resolved without too much pain it will really be a joy.
  • pullchordpullchord Member Posts: 4
    Called a local dealer today....$4600. And that's the end of that story.
  • hilltopperdadhilltopperdad Member Posts: 2
    Got the rebuild price... $2700. I have 100k on the car.. will need to replace the AC in the spring... But,motor is fine.. I can't find a car like mine in any used lot for $3000...
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    $2,700 sounds pretty reasonable on a rebuild for this car. I've had more luck using private transmission shops versus national chains over the years (decades), referred by folks who drive cars cradle to grave like I do. Funny how the tranny problems in my fleet faded when the teens were out of the house and driving their own cars.

    The shop I use now was recommended by a friend who drives high end cars and puts a ton of miles on them. When he developed a serious tranny problem, he took his Acura back to his regular local dealer of many years/cars, got quoted $5,400, flipped out, went transmission shop shopping, and wound up at one that did the same job for over 35% less. No follow up issues, and that same car soldiers on five years later.

    When I pulled up to the same transmission shop (located in a lower rent industrialized area of town), I saw Acuras parked there. When I asked the owner what all the Acuras were doing there, he said he does that same dealer's overflow.

    I like the idea of getting the same level of quality without getting ripped off. Ask your more knowledgeable friends and acquaintances, and shop around.
  • aurand210aurand210 Member Posts: 9
    I have an 01' and also have had that problem recently. My check engine light came in and that was a sensor about $500 from dealership to fix. Anyway power one day out of nowhere stopped and couldnt drive it past 20 mph kind of shaked al ittle. turned out it was 3 fuses that were out the injector fuses. Who knew fuses had that much power to make your car loose power, check that out first.
  • dkocchidkocchi Member Posts: 6
    Today my trans started slipping. On a cold engine all was fine, after the car started to warm up the trans started slipping. It did not completely go out yet. Is there an adjustment or fix for this problem or is the trans on its way out? After it cooled off the same symtom arose again, was fine at first then started slipping. Please advise.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    dkocchi......start by checking the transmission fluid level, color, and smell. You didn't mention your car's mileage or previous routine transmission service in your post.
  • dkocchidkocchi Member Posts: 6
    The car has 94K miles, the car has been dealer serviced since new from prior owner. I would imagine the fluid has been changed at least once. I was told today its a strong possibility that the solenoid clip or bracket may have broken, which I guess is common for this tranny. That would be the only way I would fix the car. For the cost of labor and a new trans its not really cost effective to fix the car. Hoping to sell it to someone who can get this car back on the road.
  • dennismbenkedennismbenke Member Posts: 1
    can you tell me where fuses for this issue are located
  • virginian52002virginian52002 Member Posts: 1
    I ordered a transmission solenoid upgrade kit today from GM. I have a 1995 Aurora with a 4.0L and she has 129,000 miles on her. Apparently, this might be a fix for this intermittent problem? Has anyone else heard of this possible solution? They say it's a fairly simple job, only two to three hours and a lot of tranny fluid.
  • oldwinooldwino Member Posts: 20
    There's a real nice write=up on how to do the solenoids here;
    http://aurorah.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=1stgen&action=display&thread=2376
  • bigdonald1bigdonald1 Member Posts: 1
    I owne an 2001 aurora 3.5 ingine. It has a hard shift at a speed of 10-15 mph. had input speed sencer replaced, but problem still remains. HELP my wife loves this car.
  • law3015law3015 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 olds aurora with just uner 90,000 miles. The car will not shift into 4th gear. At 60 miles per hour the rpm's are at 3000 and at 80 mph the rpm's are around 4000. Besides this, the abs does not work nor does the traction control. Recently the cruise control went out as well. If anyone knows anything about any of these problems please let me know.
  • baethkebaethke Member Posts: 8
    I have a 97 Olds cutlass sup with the 3100 and 4T60E trans. It has 116k on it. My problem is it drops out of overdrive on flat surfaces or in and out during gradual accel. I drive it 145 miles a day. it happens with cruise on and off but wont do it every day. It just drops out and rpms go up then shifts back. but it will happen several times in a minute then stop for awhile. only does it at i say 45+ mph
  • akfisherakfisher Member Posts: 2
    edited April 2010
    I recently purchased a 01 Aurora with about 160000 miles on it, (3.5) I was driving home yesterday on the highway and stopped to make a turn and when I went to accelerate again, it would not shift into overdrive. No other problems, no clunking sounds and runs great except no overdrive. Any ideas what that could be?
  • balt102484balt102484 Member Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 95 AURORA WITH 167000 MILES AND TODAY THE CAR JUST STAYS IN SECOND GEAR. IT IS THROWING A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AND I'M WONDERING IF THIS IS SOMETHING MECHANICAL OR ELECTRICAL. HAS ANYBODY ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM? I REALLY DON'T WANT TO PUT ANYMORE MONEY INTO THIS CAR, BUT IF IT CAN BE A SIMPLE FIX THEN I WOULD BE WILLING TO DUMP TH MONEY INTO THIS CAR...
  • ron173ron173 Member Posts: 1
    I was driving down the road an the trans. quit working. no noise. car will not move in any gear? HELP
  • dmcomberdmcomber Member Posts: 2
    4.0 Service light came on. the codes are Po741 ( Torque converter clutch circuit stuck off) and Specific power train trouble code P1860 ( mfg TCC PWN Solenoid electrical fault) was told must pull transmission as this solenoid is in interior of transmission cost 1 to $2,000. Car seems to work fine can"t tell any differences in shifting or performance. Any ideas or sugestions?
  • nodlew1nodlew1 Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    I have an 01 Aurora with 77k on it. It recently has started to make a winding noise around 50-65 mph (real noticeable when I leave off the gas). Just had it in the shop and spent over 1100.00 on it. Was told that this could be a possible tranny problem. Are you aware of this type of issue? If so, does this require a rebuild or new tranny to fix it?
    Thanks
  • viznesviznes Member Posts: 3
    Note it has been four years since you posted your problem and hope I can be of some help. Like yourself have a 2001 Olds Aurora with 3.5 engine. Have exactly same problem as you described; occassional hard shifts, check engine light coming on with transmission codes, occassional whine from transmission.

    Had input output sensor replaced under warranty with no success. However mechanic at private service station I deal with advised that there is a technical service bulletin out on this problem. Apparantly it is caused by a faulty electrical connector going into transmission that creates a false signal and causes problem. This is a large, gray connector is located on the right side of the transmission (as you are looking at it from front of car). To alleviate the problem I simply wiggle the connector. Typically check engine light goes out immediately or maybe after several start-stop cycles and transmission works just fine. When in for service have mechanic check codes and inevitably come back as transmission codes, though I cannot tell you which ones.

    Problem is getting worse as time goes on. Now have 123K on car. Big problem I face is getting through emissions testing. Have to have check engine light off and car go through several start-stop cycles after resetting light. Was able to get through in August and have almost two years before need retesting. However thought of having to spend $700 on a non-repair to pass emissions (and stay registered) is not comforting one.

    Have you had any success with resolving problem?
  • viznesviznes Member Posts: 3
    Note it has been two years since you posted your problem and hope I can be of some help. Like yourself have a 2001 Olds Aurora with 3.5 engine. Have exactly same problem as you described; occassional hard shifts, check engine light coming on with transmission codes, occassional whine from transmission.

    Had input output sensor replaced under warranty with no success. However mechanic at private service station I deal with advised that there is a technical service bulletin out on this problem. Apparantly it is caused by a faulty electrical connector going into transmission that creates a false signal and causes problem. This is a large, gray connector is located on the right side of the transmission (as you are looking at it from front of car). To alleviate the problem I simply wiggle the connector. Typically check engine light goes out immediately or maybe after several start-stop cycles and transmission works just fine. When in for service have mechanic check codes and inevitably come back as transmission codes, though I cannot tell you which ones.

    Problem is getting worse as time goes on. Now have 123K on car. Big problem I face is getting through emissions testing. Have to have check engine light off and car go through several start-stop cycles after resetting light. Was able to get through in August and have almost two years before need retesting. However thought of having to spend $700 on a non-repair to pass emissions (and stay registered) is not comforting one.

    Have you had any success with resolving problem?
  • kandilainekandilaine Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem my boyfriend says it's because we need another motor mount because one is missing gone or idk. But I have had my "black box" for lack of actual name diagnosed and read not just the diagnostic codes but the gm one that actually basically has a convo with the computer and I had an internal mode switch failure which is in the transmission I could go on in detail of what that switch does but I believe from my reading numerous factual information on the ims that my rough shift is being caused by that it's located inside the transmission just spoke to boyfriend he agrees that I'm most likely right does the rough shift happen all the time or just some of the time after the car has had time to warm up. My 01 v6 Aurora had a rebuilt transmission put in about 4 years ago a few months after we purchased the vehicle thank God we had a year warranty also the rack and pinion went twice the air injection system is also a problem the thing I don't know actual name of the part but it's located behind the front driver side wheel well behind the plastic splash protector is bad gm acknowledged the problem and made another one and another place to mount it at being that if water gets in that "which I've gone through 4 secondary air injectors before I started looking up other failure problems" your air injectors are shot or singular but just thought I'd throw that info in here too I wish I remembered the actual name of it but I'm on my cell so not able to look it up without this being deleted. But I'm sure if u have an 01 Aurora you have an air injection problem too almost all do his many miles ya got I just hit 111111 lol took a pic at 100000 and that not very often u get to see that let me know if you have gotten your trouble codes do you have a vented battery and if not any problems with electrical and do you still have the stock Radio
  • truckerboy79truckerboy79 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem and it turned out to be a relatively inexpensive fix. It was a solenoid that was causing the problem... the parts were like 130 and the labor was about 120.
  • ghenkelmannghenkelmann Member Posts: 3
    Not much new to report on my original problem, as it does reappear now and then (several times per year), generating an audible whine to go along with the jolting shifts. At 191K now I won't do anything costly to address it. I stop the car and turn off the engine, and then re-start after a minute or two, and the problem disappears. It's like there's a blockage on an intake that gets stirred up once in a while causing a starvation problem that affects shifting. Shut it off and the blockage falls away. Or so it seems. I note that the fuel economy is adversly affected too, when it is acting up. The posts referenceing a torque converter solenoid problem really sound like they are on the right track.
  • realazzgenerealazzgene Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 aurora and mine is doing the same thing my dad said it is the Belt inside the transmission that is slipping,which they will have to go inside the transmission to fix. Hope this helps
  • b2200b2200 Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2013
    I have a 2001 Aurora with a 3.5 Litre engine and I believe it is the 4t65e transmission. A couple of days ago, the car suddenly shifted back into second gear while on the highway. It did have some harsh or different shift patterns up until I cleared the codes. Now, the car goes into gear well. It shifts into second gear normally , but that is where it stays. It will not upshift further. The codes it did have were P0716 (Input/ turbine sensor out of range). Code P1811 set also. (Maximum adapt and long shift) As I understand it P1811 is a limp in mode that the trans goes into to protect itself by raising pressures. What happens now is with the car starting in Drive, 1-2 solenoid is on as is the 2-3 solenoid. According to the scanner when the car shifts into second gear, 1-2 shift is immediately shows off. Scanner shows car is now in second gear. As you accelerate further, the 2-3 solenoid switches to off and the scanner is showing that the car is in 3rd gear. However, the car does not physically shift into 3rd. It stays in second. As you accelerate a bit more , the scanner shows the car being in 4th gear. However , the car is still physically in second gear. Reverse and the 1-2 shift is the only thing that seems normal. No actual shift happens after that and the car only revs higher.
    I only took it for a short drive to test it and no codes reoccurred. I have to check the data to see if it shows any kind of signal relating to that P0716 code. Could that be my only problem or does anyone knowledgable of these transmissions think there are more issues based on the info I have provided. I suppose even anyone's previous experience with perhaps the same issue would be appreciated.
  • b2200b2200 Member Posts: 2
    To follow up my last post, I have found two problems with this transmission. A common problem with regards to fourth gear is that the fourth gear hub shaft has splines which are prone to shearing and thus slipping. This has been a problem up to 2003 when they updated the replacement part to a more hardened shaft.
    My loss of third gear was in the 3rd gear clutch pack where I found the clutched to be completely burnt out. Replacement of the above items and I now have all four gears back.
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