I finally sold my 02 Highlander with 104,000 miles (AC problem was never resolved). I replaced it with a new Honda Insight hybrid. So far after 1000 miles it is averaging 41 mpg.
Thanks a ton for posting here. Thanks to Edmunds and moderators for hosting this great forum. Fixing the nut solved the heating problem ... a great and simple solution save my money.
I have 03 Highlander, I was ready to have it fixed but read all the posts. Thanks to all the posts i was able to save my self a lot. Just to add to post # 73, You have to be very careful soldering the tiny connections. Also, to take out the three knob assembly and radio you will need a 10 mm socket.(three bolts on each side) Again,.thanks to all the posts it works great!
Read post # 73 (kburger1) It has very good explanation on how to take apart.I took a gamble soldering the two boards back together but at that point i had nothing to lose because i'd have to replace it any way. Good luck.
I have a 2004 Highlander. Whenever I turn on the heat, it appears that the air conditioner is also coming on. I say 'appears to come on' because the light on the A/C button turns on. I always just press the A/C button and the light goes out. The car heats up okay.
I'm always wondered about this and my warranty is about to expire so I thought it was time to find out. The service rep at the dealer said he didn't know without seeing how another Highlander operated and I guess he never did check because he never got back to me. We both wondered if maybe it was designed to turn on the A/C to get humidity out of the air. Seems weird though, to have this happen when the weather is below freezing.
I also have 2004 Highlander, with manual AC. It will turn on automatically in heat/defrost and defrost modes but the AC light will not light up. It will not turn on automatically in heat or other modes other than mentioned.
My 2006 Highlander Limited AC and fan controls stopped working. I called Toyota and was told to have the problem inspected by the dealer. Did that and found the issue as described by everyone here was the problem. Toyota indicated they might cover the cost. Turns out they won't because not enough people have complained to Toyota. If they receive enough customer complaints, then they will pay the cost of replacing the AC Control Head. Call Toyota at 1-800-331-4331. If enough of us let them know about this issue, then we may get it covered by Toyota.
I don't think so. Let me provide more detail. My car has climate control, so when I want heat, I press a button marked "Auto". There is also a knob control for selecting the desired temperature. I have this set at 80 or higher in the winter. There is also a button marked "Mode" where I can adjust which vents are being used. There is also a button marked "A/C" and a button marked "Defrost".
When I press the Auto button and have the temperature set at like 80 or 85, hot air flows from the lower vents. The A/C button lights up, but it is still hot air coming out. I think other people were reporting getting the wrong temperature of air coming out. That is not the problem here. I just wondered if the A/C should be running when the car is not in defrost mode.
Modern automatic climate control systems only turn off the A/C compressor under certain situations. Low refrigerant, OAT below 35F, engine coolant approaching an overheat condition, or WOT, Wide Open Throttle.
The thinking, horribly FLAWED thinking IMMHO, on this seems to be to use the A/C to help dehumidfy the cabin atmosphere thereby lowering the potential of windshield fogging and at the same time raising the human comfort level. Seems we are more comfortable with an Rh near 40F
There is a C-best option, 2 actually, that the dealer can set which will allow you to disable the A/C indefinitely by simply turning it off once. The second c-best option unlinks A/C from operating automatically, with no operator indication, in any of the defrost/defog/demist modes.
My '01 F/awd RX300 has had both of these set for many years now. Prior to those C-best options I always simply unplugged the wire to the A/C clutch during the winter months.
For those experiencing the intermittent A/C cooling and heating issue that is very common with the Toyota Highlander you might want to use this source which detailed the problem and fix. Pretty simple fix (aside from the soldering) that can save you a bundle of money.
Thx for th info. The issue with my HL is getting worse. I have the bolt tightened right down, no play in the knob, and just yesterday I had to jiggle the knob to get the A/C to blow real cold air. Is this the soldering issue?
Passenger's side is barely cold while the driver's side is warm...don't know why? I thought both sides share the same flow volume but why one side is warm, the other barely cold???? it baffled me....
My Highlander had the exact same problem and I thought that it was a mixing valve or solonoid of some sort...took it to dealership, they told me that the compressor had a "hole" in it. Solution - new compressor 1,000.00. :mad:
Just got the Highlander back from dealership - air is cold on both sides now.
Darn...$1K !!! But that did not explained the problem though. I have a technician at independent shop to look at the problem and he said the hi-side pressure was on target; it wasn't like the compressor couldn't "compress" the freon any more....Did they explain exactly what the "hole" was about? Anyway, thanks for the info.
Problem fixed. It wasn't the condensor. The line was vacummed, checked for leak. Refill with freon plus die for leak check and it works now, cold on both side. Probably there was small leak some where and the line might have some air in there.
A/C seems to change to a tepid temperature during long trips. We were out of town 3 times in the last 3 months, and the A/C did this continually. Took to the dealer and they "changed the filter" before our last trip. Still happened, though.
Would the 2004 Highland "fix" work for my 2009? Or should I print those instructions out and take them with me to the dealership?
Do you think that the service department would do anything different? Should I point out the "obvious", that it still doesn't work after their filter change? My husband seems to think that there must be something in the "fix-it book" that should address this problem. What do you think?
Your problem is a difficult one for the dealer to diagnose because you've said it only happens on long trips. I'd agree with your husband, let them do their job, but be firm about it with them.
Hi! I recently replaced my blower motor, after replacing it I found that the blower motor works only in one speed(High) so after some search on the net found that the problem is something to do with the Blower Motor resistor. I bought the part from Toyota and replaced it. All the speed started working for about 5 mins after that the the resistor got too hot and melted the solder on it. Can someone please shed some light on why the Resistor got too hot.....? Thankyou
I have lost control of my temperature rotary control( I have a "auto" unit)...so like so many others I talked to the dealer who told me the standard deal $1000 buck and you are good as new....so looked on Edmunds and after reading so many posts I called the regional and the 800 numbers and got the same runaround....not enough complaints....So here I am with the front trim piece off the hvac/radio and see 6 bolts for the whole unit plus 4 screws for what looks to be the hvac unit....Those screws are not budging but the 6 10mm bolts are ready to go.....so once the unit is out what next....are there a couple connectors???? Any help would be most appreciated...Joe
Here is the link with excellent images, showing how to fix. The simple fix is to check if the nuts around the shafts for fan and heat control are secure (that was my problem - if the rotary knobs seem to wobble, that is a fair guess). Try tightening these first and if they don't work, go for the whole fix detailed in the attached link. The soldering is supposed to be very fiddly so may need to find an electronic geek friend to do this and check that there is no shorting between tracks
It's a defect and I could not repair and paid the $1000 to fix. But then I sent a detailed letter to Toyota 3 months ago. I had complete diagrams and included details that this problem will happen on every Highlander over time. The connecting wires are so tight that the movement of the knob causes slight right and left movement of the switch. Over time the wires snap off. WRITE Toyota! At some point they will owe a bunch of people alot of money!
Have a 2002 Highlander. I get heat on the driver side of vehicle but not the passenger side . What is this an indication of? Thanks in advance for your advice.
Many thanks to Devalcourt for his excellent instructions. Just repaired my son's heat/ac control on his 2006 Highlander Limited for only a $75 charge by my TV repairman for disassembling the control box and repairing and soldering the broken cable wires (he replaced them with longer wires). One caution: it is easy to drop the socket for the 10 mm bolts down in the console...also the bolts themselves! I lost a socket down in the console and never was able to find or retrieve it. But it seems to be causing no problems...not even a rattle! Use a good socket that snaps on the driver - I was using a cheapo that did not snap on. Also use a piece of double stick tape placed over the end of the socket and push the bolt head into it. By the way the Toyota dealer wanted about $1000 to repair it - $800 for the board and $200 labor. Look on automotix.net if you need a used board.
I wrote to Toyota about this issue and their response is, after your warranty expires, TOUGH-S--T!! They also said that they don't consider all these posts worth their time and effort, they will only act on issues brought up by their dealership service departments. So, if you had the problem, and fixed it without taking it to the dealer, the issue will never be addressed.
Typical corporate arrogance, DENY DENY DENY. I had the same experience with a new 06 Tundra that had 3 tires that were out of round when I bought the vehicle.
I doubt they would issue a recall since A/C and heater controls are not safety issues. Toyota has become no better and no worse than other car companies. They really don't care.
I have a 2001 Highlander. Manual A/C controls. Currently, I am experiencing a situation that the A/C quits at low speed or idling at a stop. I am tipped off that the A/C is "off" when the green indicator light on the A/C button starts flashing.
I can immediately "restart" the A/C by pressing the A/C button twice. Once to turn off and once to turn back on. Once on, the green indicator light is steady "on". However, as soon as I slow down again, the light begins flashing and the A/C quits.
If I am traveling at a constant moderate speed, the A/C stays on.
"Restarting" the A/C always seems to work...but it is a nuisance to have to keep doing it...especially in city driving.
Also, the temperature with the A/C on seems to be plenty cool.
Same here. When the a/c on my '05 Highlander started acting up(and of course the car is out of warranty), I got really nervous. I could see a repair bill in the thousands of dollars. But out of curiosity, I googled to see if there were similar reports of problems with the a/c on Highlanders. Turns out there are more than I would care to know. But anyway, I took this posters suggestion of checking the temperature control knob. Was it loose? YEP. Gently remove the knob by pulling the knob away from the panel. OK. Do you see a hex nut on the metal post that the knob attaches too? YES. Is it loose? YEP. Then tighten the nut until it is secure. OK. Re-attach temperature control knob. OK. Test running the a/c by turning on the fan. Is the temperature control accurate? YES!!!!!! Thank you so much for posting. I was getting ready to take it in to the mechanic. I can only imagine what they would have diagnosed and charged me for!
Lesson to this story: Do your research BEFORE resorting to the repair shop. The internet is a wealth of information. Take the least invasive approach first, and if that doesn't provide the results you seek, then proceed to the next step.
Highlander 2003 with 267000km, 4 cyl. Whether you put cool air or air condition, while driving it sudently swith to very hot air. Either I take the air condition off and on again or I switch the knob from coolest to warmest and then back to coolest, and everything comes back to normal. Hate to do that, but it's the only way I found. Am I the only one? Any idea to solve the problem? It may appear one , twice or even three times on a run of 50 km.
May be late in day for this one, but I had same problem, and pulleed the knob cover off from the dashboard, that controls the temperature. The nut was loose holding the variable switched to the dash, and shorting out below. Tightended nut, put knob back on, works great...Dan
Thank you so much for posting your message . . . I too have an 05 Highlander with the AC issues, just taking the knob off, not even tightening it, I got immediate cold air it was wonderful. Just yesterday I had gone to a mechanic who told me it would be about $700 to replace the panel for the repair, you just saved me $700 and now I have cold air in my car, Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Just drove a 2011 highlander off the lot 5 days ago. Air blows warm for 6-9 minutes after car has been sitting for awhile like in garage overnight. Took it in they found leaking o-ring and filled the freon. Again brand new car 200 miles. Still blows warm- left a baseball game tonight after the car sat for 3 hours. Took a/c 5 minutes to blow cold. It literally blows warm air then seems to kick in. Service mgr tells me it takes the highlanders 5 minutes to cool the cabin. It takes mine 6 minutes to blow cool air. Any similar problems? Considering taking it back. We live in a hot climate and our 18 year old BMW cools better. Help
I had the same problem with my 2005 Highlander. Googled it and tons of people had the same issue. If you take it to Toyota they tell you they have to replace the whole board which costs about 1k. In actuality it is just that two of three wires coming to the control button has come undone because they are too short. You need to just have them resolder on the other side and it works like new. Cost me $40.00. I can't remember the site but if you look hard enough you will find it where a guy give you detailed instructions on how to fix it with pictures.
Did A/C improve at all after repair? You might want to ask your dealer to let you compare any other new HL cooling with yours, see if any difference. I have a 2008 HL and A/C might take few minutes to cool off if car seats for long time on the sun. I can feel cold air coming from the vents pretty soon though, whole cabin space might take time to cool off if it gets really hot. If you live in hot climate then you should have chosen optional rear A/C when you bought the car.
The control switch will not move the tempture up or down it's stuck at 65 degree. i check the hex nut and it tight.is it time for a new control switch?
model year? I have a '05 and initially I had the same problem that was remedied in msg #155. Problem occurred again this winter and it turned out that the "blender door" control is broken. It controls how wide to open the door (underneath the dash) to blend the warm/cool air into the cabin. Right now, I have a stiff wire propping the door wide open to get me thru a Chicago winter. I only get one temperature control HOT or OFF. Not sure if this is your problem, but it's my experience with lack of temperture control.
Comments
Thanks a ton for posting here. Thanks to Edmunds and moderators for hosting this great forum. Fixing the nut solved the heating problem ... a great and simple solution save my money.
Thanks,
Manoj
thnks.
I'm always wondered about this and my warranty is about to expire so I thought it was time to find out. The service rep at the dealer said he didn't know without seeing how another Highlander operated and I guess he never did check because he never got back to me. We both wondered if maybe it was designed to turn on the A/C to get humidity out of the air. Seems weird though, to have this happen when the weather is below freezing.
When I press the Auto button and have the temperature set at like 80 or 85, hot air flows from the lower vents. The A/C button lights up, but it is still hot air coming out. I think other people were reporting getting the wrong temperature of air coming out. That is not the problem here. I just wondered if the A/C should be running when the car is not in defrost mode.
The thinking, horribly FLAWED thinking IMMHO, on this seems to be to use the A/C to help dehumidfy the cabin atmosphere thereby lowering the potential of windshield fogging and at the same time raising the human comfort level. Seems we are more comfortable with an Rh near 40F
There is a C-best option, 2 actually, that the dealer can set which will allow you to disable the A/C indefinitely by simply turning it off once. The second c-best option unlinks A/C from operating automatically, with no operator indication, in any of the defrost/defog/demist modes.
My '01 F/awd RX300 has had both of these set for many years now. Prior to those C-best options I always simply unplugged the wire to the A/C clutch during the winter months.
http://bit.ly/9zGHkU is the short URL.
If you don't like short URL's here is the original:
http://www.devalcourt.com/2010/03/fixing-2004-toyota-highlander-ac-and-heat-issu- e/
Hope others find this useful.
Just got the Highlander back from dealership - air is cold on both sides now.
Damage = $200.
Would the 2004 Highland "fix" work for my 2009? Or should I print those instructions out and take them with me to the dealership?
Thanks!
I have lost control of my temperature rotary control( I have a "auto" unit)...so like so many others I talked to the dealer who told me the standard deal $1000 buck and you are good as new....so looked on Edmunds and after reading so many posts I called the regional and the 800 numbers and got the same runaround....not enough complaints....So here I am with the front trim piece off the hvac/radio and see 6 bolts for the whole unit plus 4 screws for what looks to be the hvac unit....Those screws are not budging but the 6 10mm bolts are ready to go.....so once the unit is out what next....are there a couple connectors???? Any help would be most appreciated...Joe
Here is the link with excellent images, showing how to fix. The simple fix is to check if the nuts around the shafts for fan and heat control are secure (that was my problem - if the rotary knobs seem to wobble, that is a fair guess). Try tightening these first and if they don't work, go for the whole fix detailed in the attached link. The soldering is supposed to be very fiddly so may need to find an electronic geek friend to do this and check that there is no shorting between tracks
http://www.devalcourt.com/2010/03/fixing-2004-toyota-highlander-ac-and-heat-issu- e/
Cheers
Graham
WRITE Toyota! At some point they will owe a bunch of people alot of money!
They also said that they don't consider all these posts worth their time and effort, they will only act on issues brought up by their dealership service departments. So, if you had the problem, and fixed it without taking it to the dealer, the issue will never be addressed.
I doubt they would issue a recall since A/C and heater controls are not safety issues. Toyota has become no better and no worse than other car companies. They really don't care.
I can immediately "restart" the A/C by pressing the A/C button twice. Once to turn off and once to turn back on. Once on, the green indicator light is steady "on". However, as soon as I slow down again, the light begins flashing and the A/C quits.
If I am traveling at a constant moderate speed, the A/C stays on.
"Restarting" the A/C always seems to work...but it is a nuisance to have to keep doing it...especially in city driving.
Also, the temperature with the A/C on seems to be plenty cool.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
But anyway, I took this posters suggestion of checking the temperature control knob. Was it loose? YEP. Gently remove the knob by pulling the knob away from the panel. OK. Do you see a hex nut on the metal post that the knob attaches too? YES. Is it loose? YEP. Then tighten the nut until it is secure. OK. Re-attach temperature control knob. OK. Test running the a/c by turning on the fan. Is the temperature control accurate? YES!!!!!!
Thank you so much for posting. I was getting ready to take it in to the mechanic. I can only imagine what they would have diagnosed and charged me for!
Lesson to this story: Do your research BEFORE resorting to the repair shop. The internet is a wealth of information. Take the least invasive approach first, and if that doesn't provide the results you seek, then proceed to the next step.
Thanks if there is a genius among us !!
Here's the site.
http://www.devalcourt.com/2010/03/fixing-2004-toyota-highlander-ac-and-heat-issu- e/