Toyota Highlander Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning
i have a 2005 Toyota Highlander with approx. 12,000 miles on it and the air conditioning works intermittantly. Since the problem is not all the time i'm afraid i'm going to spend make many many trips to the dealer trying to get them to find the problem. Has anyone else had this problem with the A/C working now and then??
Thanks for your replys
Thanks for your replys
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I have a 2003 v6 Highlander 4WD. It has the manual 3 knob controls for the heater. I am looking to switch it to an Automatic Climate control. Can this be possible? If so what do I need to get this done? Someone told me that the wiring is different.
Was checking the forum and noticed your question. I know it was Dec 31 when you posted, but have you done anything with this. I too, was considering changing to Automatic Climate Control in my 01 Highlander. Were you able to accomplish this or is the wiring indeed different? I already have a replacement panel. Thanks,
wconnors
I'm wondering if when the radio/CD had to be replaced if they messed up something then and it has just now shown up. The whole radio system died last month and had to be replaced
Thank you for your reply and help
Thanks, Gary
Phil
I am trading mine in asap for something else. With the other problems that I have had, I will not be getting another Toyota. :mad:
Cost:0$ but a $20 tip!
After posting my problem (#19), decided to check if the nut on the heater knob post had come loose. Sure enough, it was loose enough to cause the irregular heating issue. Amazing. I'm so glad I found this forum and your posting. It saved me hundreds of dollars, I'm sure. Thanks again.
To everyone else, it's an easy thing to check and rule out.
As Webgood said, the heater knob should be nice and firm when turned and you should slightly feel position indents or stops as it turns. Mine didn't until I tightened up the nut.
Pull the heater knob straight off and feel if the nut is loose.
Keep spreading the word.
I plan on checking the AC knob to fix the AC problem tomorrow but have no idea about the fuel gauge. Could these possibly be related?
I found this site after a general search for Highlander Heater Problems. I did as they said, "take the knob off, added a drop of Loctite, and tightened the nut." It works. I'm sending a copy of this post to Toyota. What lousy customer service from the dealership where I bought my car and have had all my previous repairs done.
G
When I picked it up - they didn't have the colored decal on it and told me I could pick it up today. I went to get it put on - and now they want an additional 40.00 just for the decal (looks awful without). Has anyone else run into this??? They said, "well that's toyota for you" - Needless to say I didn't buy it (yet). Does anyone know where I can get a colored decal for the unit without paying yet another sum of money???! I am really choked about this. Thank!
L=fan speed Center=temp select R=discharge outlet selector
The one that's been an issue is the center temp control.
better yet, turn it all the way (either way) before you remove it, then it will be easier to get it back aligned the same.
My A/C is fully charged but intermittently I don't get cold air. I know this cuz I have used temp guage and know the temp when cold and warm. The temp setting knob works fine. But do not get cold air, while driving intermittently it will start sending cold air but consistently.
Anyone run into this problem and know the fix. Any help is helpful.
:confuse:
never take your vehicle there. I would say 90% of dealerships are crooked
Being stopped for awhile or moving slowly along in stop and go traffic with the engine mostly idling and A/C still going on a hot day will result...
Are there sensors that prevent it from turning on?
Has anyone else had similar problems?
I'd take it to the dealer as it has probably lost some gas. The Air Con is super efficient and copes well with Australian summers (similar to Nevada) so there sounds to be something not wrking correctly
Cheers
Graham
There are times when Toyota's design engineers seem to be a little TOO concerned with passenger discomfort and "this" is undoubtedly one of those times. You can be cool the cabin down quickly by discomforting yourself briefly with system airflow that is a bit TOO cool.
First, move the temperature setpoint to the COLDEST position. That should result in the blower speed going to the highest level once the A/C begins cooling the airflow. It will also, typically, result in the system switching to recirculate mode. If so then immediately switch it back into fresh mode and lower the rear windows an inch or so.
The object of this "stage" is to move the "super-heated" airflow out of the passenger cabin and in the process hopefully reduce the interior surface temperatures slightly.
Over time and trials you will begin to be able to judge when to switch to the next stage.
Now switch the system to recirculate mode and lower the blower speed to adjust your noise intrusion comfort level. At this point the lower the blower speed is the lower will be the temperature of the system airflow. If you continue to need it cold, TOO COLD, in order to more quickly cool down the cabin then you might want to switch the airflow to footwell or mixed dash/footwell mode.
I found it helped quite a bit cooling wise, COOLDOWN, to purchase and install a manual water flow shutoff valve in the engine coolant flow line to the heater core. That not only serves to bypass the reheat.remix mode of the HVAC system but results in a significantly lighter load for the A/C compressor and thereby an improvement in FE.
To cool a car down quickly after sitting in the sun, 1st put down ALL the windows, switch the AC to NON-recirculate and the highest fan speed. After about 1-3 minutes of driving, roll up the windows and switch the AC to RECIRCULATE.
Why? The fastest way to move the cabin temp down from 140 is to get it to 100 by rolling down the windows. Then let the AC take it from 100, instead of trying to make it work against 140 air.
If you mean the reheat/remix vane/door then it will only be fully closed, and REMAIN fully closed, with the system in the max cooling position. On the other hand if you mean the actual coolant flow valve then the beancounters have been successful in eliminating that feature some years ago now.
If the hot engine coolant is allowed to flow through the heater core then the radiant heating effects can be rather substantially adverse to the cooling capability of the system.
Anything like this out there???
Also my V6 is using excessive oil and has blue exhaust when started in the morning. My dealer insists on measuring the oil usage requiring me to take it to them periodically to measure oil. Last trip used a quart of oil in 500 miles. I'm aware of the slug settlement but my dealer pulled the head cover off and told me there was no sign of slug. It's not sounding like they want to help me.
Anyone have any suggestions, please help. thanks.
Perhaps letting Toyota know may do something?
http://toyota.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/toyota.cfg/php/enduser/ask.php?p_sid=3Yi8sVbj- &p_lva=&p_sp=&p_li=&p_accessibility=