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Comments
I can think of throttle position sensor as one item to check, not replace, unless it tests as not operating with a smooth voltage change through its range.
I could see a vacuum leak causing unevenness at idle, but I don't think it would give a big change at 70 mph.
MAF can be cleaned with a spray chemical and a small artist's brush hairs. The wires inside the MAF are very sensitive. I would expect a MAF to give idle trouble or stalling at low speeds as the usual symptom.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I am new to this forum and I did check this thread hoping to find something similar. Did not, so this query!
I recently purchased a 1997 PA with 89000 miles on it.
1. The locks for the rear doors don't work and have to be done manually. And neither the glasses roll up & down.
2. Two days ago, I started getting a false 'Door Ajar' indication.
3. And all the exterior lights that used to come on briefly with a small beep from the horn whenever the car was locked/unlocked from the remote, are not coming anymore even though the car is still locking/unlocking remotely.
4. And also, the power controls for the driver's seat (Seat forward, reverse, up & down) stopped functioning for a while yesterday, but on second try, they worked and are still working.
What could be possibly wrong with the car? Where should I be looking to fix this myself? Are all these problems connected to each other somehow?
Please reply, this is baffling me and I do not like the idea of predicting what will go wrong next.
Thanks.
Do you have water in the carpet on the floor under the front seats? AC drain stopped up causing the water to go into the floor of the car? Sunroof? Drains on those on the H-body come loose in front where they go into the floor and under the car. Door water barriers come unsealed and water leaks into the car over the door sill instead of being forced to drain into the metal cavity of the door and out the openings on the bottom of the door under the rubber seal.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Took to local GM dealer, mechanic thought problem was Twilight switch, tested, OK. Suggested Latch problem, think drivers door latch most probable, as most used. Replaced door latch, no joy, put in new module, door latch started contineous clicking and module got hot. Disconnected module. Now car does not turn on IL when parked, but keyless entry not working and IL lights stay on all the time while driving.Ilegal at night in this state. So far it has cost $462.00 to find out what ISN'T CAUSING THE PROBLEM. Mechanic states he believes problem is short under the dash board, worst case senerio $975.00 to tear apart and check each wire. No garentee problem would be solved.
Small town, went to Ford, was told only knowledgeable about Fords. Toyota, same story. No other dealerships to choose from. I am willing to spend the money if I had a garentee that problem will be solved.
Any help and/or advise would be greatly appreciated.
Are you saying it's an 11 amp draw? You didn't leave out the decimal?
My first guess would be to disconnect the alternator from the circuit and see if that's it.
And then there's the starter. You can disconnect the positive red cable, but I'd disconnect it from the battery first and then insulate the end you took off and reconnect at the battery.
If it's an 11 amp draw, you should be able to feel warmth in the cable going to the item with the draw--at least that's my thinking on it.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Sounds like you've done some testing already, have you also tried to pull the little silver circuit breaker boxes as they are usually higher amp. You may try to feel them and see if they are warm.
If you haven't considered it yet, has anything changed or have you had any maint done on the car just before this started happening?
As an example, I had a new exhaust put on my old truck (which I rarely drive) and the next time I tried to drive it some time later at night, I found I had no dash lights or rear running lights. I got underneath the truck and found where the muffler shop employee had attached an exhaust hanging strap to the frame with a bolt, he had shorted out a wire when he carelessly caught it under the metal strap. It would blow a fuse as soon as you turned the lights on.
Keep us updated with what you find.
I've asked about this at the dealership when I was having other things worked on. They told me the only thing they could do was replace the power window modules at a cost of $800 each. That's not a reasonable option to me.
I was wondering if anyone else had experienced this, and what options I might have other than replacing the power window modules.
btw, still getting 25.8 mpg figured by gas and mileage. The computer is always 3 mpg higher.
If you replaced with a used model, did all the wire colors match the unit you pulled out? I'm sorry, but I don't a schematic that lists the wire colors with their purpose for a '97.
You might also double check that all the connections are tight, and that no wires pulled loose from the connectors when you install.
If the wires all match, and the connectors are tight, the only other thing I would check would be the fuses.
I have read ( just today) where some people swap out to a LED bulb because it draws much less amperage, but I have not pursued that avenue yet. I'll have to take a look at that.
If you look on eBay, you can find several models that look exactly like ours at the column, but the wiring harnesses are different lengths or connectors. I'd guess internally, they'd be the same as ours. At one point I considered getting one, ( I think it was for full size GM SUV) and just matching up the wires to my connectors... but then that got pushed to the back of the long list of chores, once I got the turn signal working again. :P
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2002 Buick Park Ave., the LED lights that illuminate the odometer and transmission shift selector, i.e. D, R, N, 1, 2, 3 quite working. The lights that illuminate the analog tach, speedometer are ok. I want to know precisely what electronic component (probably on a circuit card) it is that goes bad. I believe it possible to desolder that component, and replace it. I believe this is something I can do, instead of replacing it or having it sent off to be rebuilt. I had the same problem with the AC & Heater control, that displays the temp. in LED mode, yet still provided control for AC, heater. Eventually I replaced it with a used one that does light up.
Is there anyone that can help??
Different bulbs for each.
Webshots pics of my '98 headlights
I've never tried the LED bulb, perhaps you can try and post your results? Both with no bulb , and with LED bulb?
Can anyone give me an idea if I'm looking in the wrong area or looking in the wrong direction?
Also, there's another lamp control module mounted on the firewall to the right of the gas pedal behind the heater duct work that you might want to check first. It contains circuit board with the relays that turn the headlights, park lights and dash lights on and off. It's a little difficult to find because it's partially concealed by the carpet. It's a breeze to remove compared to the 12362231. There's a video about repairing it on YouTube, just search for "Buick Park Avenue" and you should find it. On my 96 park avenue the part number was 16215659 but I've seen what looks to be the same module listed under different numbers like 12088534. You can find the current numbers on the AC Delco website by using your VIN in their parts search.
How do i remove and test the dimmer switch?
GM put a grease in that dries up over time, just grease it up. Door panels are pretty easy to take off. Just remember to pop lower clips and then lift UP, not out.
No ideas on what yet. I have pulled cluster out for inspection, but nothing found yet.