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Toyota Corolla Electrical Problems
My wife called last week from the Target parking lot and said the car would start but wouldn't stay on. When I got in it, if I gave it gas it would stay on. I drove it around the parking lot and noticed when I turned the A/C on, the parking brake light came on and when I signaled left the wipers would come on. I immediately drove to the nearest repair place, which happend to be a Toyota dealership. The tech said the entire main fuse box had melted and that he smelled something burning. They have had to replace two new computers and still no answer. Anyone ever had this. 2000 Corolla with only 82000 miles.
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I guess I've been lucky with my '98!
i unplugged the light from behind where the thelittle guys are that have the arrows going to their feet or face
i realized i didnt have the right LEDs to put in there so i went to plug it back in and the LED blew and i believe it shorted out the spedemoter, gas guage, and temp guage as well because they wont light up now
please help
I've been having trouble with the Starter. The symptoms are intermittent. Sometimes the starter will not crank. It'll just "Click". If I turn the ignition enough times it will start. (I have Sears Die Hard Gold Less <2 yrs old)
One time when I started up the car the starter motor kept cranking with the engine resulting in a noisy clicking sound. When I shut the engine off through the ignition and pulled out the key the starter kept cranking! I had to unplug the battery to get it to turn off.
Since then I have replaced the starter. It was ok for a while but sometimes it will still only "click" when I turn the ignition and eventually (after many tries) it will catch and crank the engine.
Today my wife while driving the car complained of a noisy engine and the automatic "lighting" didn't turn on. She had to turn on the parking lights manually.
Note: I have had the engine swapped with the same engine model 1ZZFE. Old engine was eating oil and then died cause wify didn't check oil. Thank you to ProLong prob eating my seals.
Sometimes when the gas tank is filled the motor will rev and drop rpm for a little while and then return to normal. (this has appeared since engine swap)
I know I have a lot of questions but please if you have any solutions to the multiple of questions I have post them.
Thank you for everything.
-Mao
is there a way to have an on off switch for separetly for lights in the bumper.?
pls give ur suggestions
Also, for two days the temp. gauge would not report an increase in engine temperature until midway through the day. Any thoughts.
Good luck!
BigShot: Here is a list of the ideas I have come up with, arranged in order of increasing difficulty:
1. play with the steering wheel for a while, and then it starts right up.
2. try putting on the brake and moving the gear shift into neutral and cranking it again.
3. buy or make a remote starter switch
4. replace the pick-up coil in the distributor.
Poppy10
Is there anybody had an issues like this before?
Thank you very much in advance for helping me with this matter
Good Luck
MNF
left front and rear right window will stop working occasionally, It doesn't matter the switch being used
The fuse spouse to be Under nee of steering wheel, on fuse box cover one mark refer to 30A P/W fuse iCon, fuse spouse to be there right?
Wondering no referring fuse there is empty slot. Please help me to find out what control of power window fuse or Rely and where they located.
By the way I’m asking because all window stop working automatic door are working fine.
Thanks
- drivers side switch bad
- individual doorlock or window regulator bad
- wiring bad between the drivers side door jamb and drivers door, due to many years of flexing and unflexing every time the drivers door is opened.
These problems are not technically difficult to identify and fix, just tedious. You'll need a voltmeter/ohmmeter. Start at the drivers door switch, and verify that each switch is working properly with a voltmeter. Then move the voltmeter to the doors, and verify that the same voltage that you had on the drivers switch, has made it thru the wiring to the individual doors. Using the drivers switch, and the meter on the doors, verify each is working properly. Then move to meter out the door switches. Verify that the remote switch is working correctly, and then also providing the voltage to the locking mechanism.
went o the mall this afternoon. when I came out and tried to start the engine, it didn't. according the manual, I should take it to the dealer because of the warning light symbol. I called the tow truck company. the guy checked the the car and told me that it could be either battery or the alternator. after a few minutes of charging the battery, I tried to start the car and it wouldn't. so, the guy told me the alternator is the problem. so, he took the car to the shop for complete checkup and called back to let me know that I need a new alternator and a battery. so, my question is what happend to the "QUALITY"? I have ownd 10 cars in my life and never had an alternator problem. the technician told me that it's going to cost me about $500 - $600. unfortunatley, I lost my job last month and can't afford it. what's the reasonable cost to put in a new alternator? the technician price is based on AC-Delco alternative and Interstate battery. Thank a million in advance of your help.
Mason
Massod, It is a bit soon for an alternator and a battery. My guess is that they have not both failed, or that one is the result of the other. Stuff happens, no car is perfect.
Masood
no head lights or power to the fuel pump. No warning lights ever came on. Will start with
either so we have ignition. Any suggestions?
I drive a 2001 coroola, and both of the headlights and the passenger foglight went out. I've had the car since 2006, and have never had a problem with this before. I replace both headlights (but not the foglight) and this seemed to solve the problem on the driver's side of the car, but the passenger side the headlight is still out, as is the foglight. I checked the fuse for the headlights and replaced the one for the passenger side headlight and still no luck. I am pretty sure it is an electrical problem, but not quite sure what it could be. any suggestions?
thanks!
Now my problem lies in the driver side door, the handle broke off in my hand so I have to open the door from the outside. Plus the driver's window hasn't worked for a long time. We are looking for a door at a junkyard.
I'd say time for a new car.....
The first time this happened I played with the fuses first before buying 2 new bulbs to replace them thinking they had burned out as the fuses were fine. As I was about to replace them I set the screwdriver down on the frame and the vibration triggered the light to come back on. I then tapped around the frame near the other headlight and the same thing happened.
Before this occurred I had decided the car was an electrical lemon. I also have a problem where the speedometer console lighting on the right first died, later followed by the left. Then after that the heating/radio console lights went out.
I also have an intermittent dome light. If switched on it will turn off for a bit, then come back on at random times.
Ohh, and my drivers electrical side door locks are fussy as well. The switch doesn't always lock the doors. I have to lean my self over like an idiot and use the switch on the passenger side half the time I park to get out. (I'm not usually bright enough to remember i can use my key from the outside to lock all 4 doors as well, though even then Ive had problems with that though I fault a poorly cut key which I had ordered or had made as a backup and has since become my primary)
I don't recall the figure I was quoted to have both the dash lighting and the door locks fixed but at the time it seemed ridiculous to me as the car is over the hill and frankly I don't care enough about it to have the whole cars electrical system replaced, assuming that's what needs to be done. It's just unfortunate that I can't sell the car for a few bucks or give it to anyone in good conscience knowing at night they may freak out and crash if both low beams fail at once or they're traveling at unsafe speeds cuz they can't read the speedometer in the dark, pre-warned or not.
Anyways, just wanted to share that, interested to see how many other 01's are lemons in the electrical department. The next time I have it in for service I'll have the electrical system looked at and get newly quoted and hopefully remember this thread to share that info here.
And 01corolla, try my tip in tapping the frame near the headlights, use the grip end of a screwdiver while the lights are turned on. If it works for you it's a nice, cheap (if only temporary) fix.
The dome switch sounds like it's nothing more then a switching opening up on occasion. I would remove the cover, check that the switch and bulb contacts are all making good contact and probably spray it with a little WD-40 or an electrical contact cleaner spray and repl;ace cover.
The intermittant headlights are telling you that there is nothing more than looseor non-conductive contacts on the plug. Pull out each headlight plug, spray and push in all the way.
Door locks are most likely the same problem, remove the inside door panels, check contacts and clean and spray.
In an older car you have to realize these electrical switches and contacts are subject to many various temperature changes and road vibrations over the years and can oxidize or loosen up very easily. You would have this problem regardless of whatever brand or model you would have.
Now the dash panel lights are a different story. Depending on which ones are burned out it could be a little labor intensive to replace these small bulbs. But really in a 2001 I would just live with it rather then spend the money to replace them.
As for the tips and suggestions I appreciate very much the time you have taken to post them.
- The dome and headlights advice I will put to the test tonight.
- The door locks I will keep in mind but will probably just retrain myself to use the key to lock the doors from the outside.
- The dash lights I will probably leave; the last time I had it in I scoffed at the estimate to repair something Toyota really should have made much easier to access / cheaper to fix. (If I recall correctly the windshield I had replaced was overall cheaper then what was needed in labour to replace a light bulb in the speedometer console and compared to each other the light bulb cost seemed absurd)
- For the brake lamp I will try your same suggestion for the headlights and dome problem.
- The gear selector and lights on heater/radio console I will likely have to leave.
Again, thanks for your time.
Is there a way to bypass the seat belt warning? I was able to bypass the alarm on my Subaru.
I have a 2000 Corolla that has been a fine car till now. On the way home today the power, electrical, engine, everything went out for just a second 4 different times. The first three times the engine maintained life, but the fourth time it died. The power came right back and I could restart it. Anyone know what causes all of the power to go out momentarily? Radio, engine, all ectrical.
Thanks,
Ted