I just found out the same thing from a magazine. I guess my idea of a radar detector is one that just isn't out there yet. SOMEbody's gonna make a jillion bucks if they design one. They'll have my $300.
Before I retired I drove 50 miles one way to work five days a week on two lane highway, and as you can imagine my foot got sort of heavy at times. I knew where Smoky could hide, but often they would use the instant on while patrolling so that didn't help much. The secret to that is to be certain there is another driver down the highway ahead of you a good distance and if he is hit your detector will pick it up, giving you a chance to slow down before he hits you. Never got a ticket doing this. And as to the range of radar detectors, I live outside of a small town whose police force uses radar quite a bit, and I've picked them up coming into the street I was driving from a 90 degree angle or on a parallel street.
can be used to detect a car at 90 degrees. By pointing the radar just in front of or just behind the car, the radar signal will bounce off the road, off the car and return the same way. Usually you will get a good detector signal, from this kind of detection. The reason is that the cop usually does not have a good view of traffic from 90 degrees, and keeps his radar on more frequently than under other situations. This assumes that you aren't the only one he can see and turns it on just for your car. In that case the detector may give little warning.
While we're trying to come up with radar jamming equipment, how about someone trying to make an Electro Magnetic Pulse emitter? I know it's not feasible, but wouldn't it be nice? Just point it at the cop car, zap him, and he has no power at all, all systems down. Ok, I'll keep dreaming...
You have to realize that whenever you start posting anything on the Internet it radiates out all over cyberspace. So, be careful and check your pulse periodically, especially if you are using those new magnetic insoles.
i just want a radar detector in the $100 range--no valentin or other stuff for $400. any recommendations, or do i HAVE to pay $400 to get something just decent--need not be the cadillac detector.
I will be picking up my brand new '01 Cadillac DTS in December. I have a Whistler 1575 hard wired into my current Deville. It is mounted on the windshield between the mirror and the sunshade in a perfect spot. Anyway, I want to upgrade to a V1 for the new car, but it has some kind of "sun-blocker" that my '98 doesn't have across the top of the windshield. My question is will this checker-board type sun blocker effect performance? Has anyone else mounted a radar in a 2000 Deville of any trim level? Any constructive input welcome.
I am sure you can find a detector on the Web that will meet your dollar figure. I would cation you to be aware that all manufactures claims may be stated in the best of all possible conditions. A $100 detector that false alarms at a high rate is not going to do you any good. I would advise you to elect a detector based on more criteria than cost. Cost vs. performance is the real trade off.
thanks, but, all i am asking is...is there a decent radar detector that can be had for $100 or so? i don't want to hard wire anything, or pay $400 for a viper or whatever the brand is that alot of people talk about-- can i just go to walmart or best buy and pick up a cobra model or whistler model in the $100 that is a decent enough model so that i can just plug the thing into the cigarette lighter, turn it on, and be done with it??
Sorry, ral, but you get what you pay for. Any radar detector WORTH having is going to cost you more than $100 bucks new. Maybe you can look in the classifieds near you and buy a descent USED detector from someone who is upgrading. Otherwise, if I were you I'd invest the $100 and hope you can find a rate of return which is consistent with your frequency of speeding violations. Good Luck.
I have a question regarding hard wiring a radar detector into a car circuit. I noticed that the Bel980 that I ordered (www.speedsound.com has the best prices), has a fuse in the lighter adapter. Should I still provide fused protection to a hard wired unit, or should I rely on the fuse that protects the circuit (I think the Bel has a 3amp and the mirror has like 15amp; which is much higher)? If I should provide a fuse, does anyone know say a Radio Shack part number for a fuse holder?
If BEL provides that size fuse in the CLA you should use the same 3 amp value in your hard wiring job....unless you want to toast your detector if there's a short somewhere. The geniuses at Radio Shack can aim you to any in-line fuse holder. Just be sure to buy a couple of 3 amp fuses in case the holder comes with some other amperage fuse.
Blane, thanks for the info. Once I receive my detector, I'm going to go ahead with the hard wire. My car has both lights and an automatic dimmer in the rear view mirror. The connector going into the mirror has a perfect spot to hook up the detector. We'll see how it goes when I get a chance to work on it.
I also prefer to make my connection near the mirror, as it gets your detector up high where it will give you maximum range. You might want to check to see if the power source that you are planning to tap is switched on/off by your ignition switch. That would be best, as you might not want your detector to remain powered on (overnight?) when you remove your ignition key and don't manually switch your detector off.
Any thoughts? One web sight says the Bel is just as or more sensitive than V1. And the price of the Bel is $225. And it looks better than the V1 (not that that matters much when performance is the same). Am I missing something?
No directions or hit counter. But I'm not sure that will be very beneficial to me. I also like the dimming features on the Bel. The jury is still out though ... haven't made up my mind just yet.
My money was and IS on the Valentine 1. The arrows' indication of the direction from which the "threat" is coming, are hands-down the best, most valuable, feature. You can't beat the range either.
All anyone needs, to convince themselves of the virtues of the V1, is to pay the cost of the ticket and several years of higher insurance premiums after getting a citation with a lesser unit.
Just ordered the V1 with the concealment thing. Why do I trust my $450 to you guys!! Oh well, I do, you convinced me.
I hate wires hanging all over my car, but I'm not the mechanic-type. The guy at V1 said all I need to do is attach the main unit to a visor, tuck the cord behind the windshield and run it down to the fuse box to an adaptor that comes with it. And the concealment unit can be plugged into the fuse box too. I have a 2001 Acura CL-type S. Will it be as easy as it sounds?
Before you say something that might hurt our collective feelings, why not take your car down to a "Car Toys" , "Good Guys" or "Best Buy" and have a professional install your deal. I mean what the hell, you've already spend $450 buying the unit. Another $50-75 won't kill you.
And besides, after the V1 saves your sorry [non-permissible content removed] from Smokey, you'll be loving us all over again.
sanfranfamily asked if anyone ever purchased anything from Speed and Sound (www.speedsound.com). I did, twice now. I found (and several of my friends as well) that they have the best prices. I purchased an Alpine stereo from them about a year and a half ago. I also purchased my BEL980 from them and it arrived today (why not V1? I didn't feel like the extra $200 was worth it; I don't always need the best, and the Bel was well rated; even the operator at S&S said it was their hottest seller). They have a good return policy as well. They only sell factory new equipment (not refurbished). They even remember who you are and what you purchased in the past.
to blane, I have confirmed that the lead that I'm going to use from my mirror is switched with the ignition. considering I have left my current detector on over night several times, I'm really looking forward to not having to worry about it. Let me ask you this, does the quick on, off, and on that occurs with many electrical systems at start-up turn the detector on, off, then on again, and can that cycle fry the detector (even with the fuse, of course)?
I have always had my unit hard wired to a switched source. I have never had a problem with "frying" any part of the detector. I don't see the difference between turning it on by on/off switch or by ignition switch.
Does anyone know anything about K-40 detectors? I purchased a used car that had one installed. The dealer said K-40 will pay the ticket if you get one in the first year (for new installation). It says it's "sonaradar" and it beeps constantly, like sonar on a ship. It's hard-wired into the dash, and supposedly has a front and rear sensor. It doesn't seem to get too many false hits, but it also hasn't gone off before when I know I see a cop. I don't trust it but I would like to -- I haven't gone over 80 mph since my last ticket about 5 years ago (cost almost $200).
Also, if it's not any good, can I replace it and still hard-wire the new one in to the dash or does it have to be windshield to get full range?
I was looking into one of these since I live in VA. From what I have heard, they are equivalent to an above average detector.
Theoretically, the sonaradar should get faster as you approach a radar trap. If it is not doing so, it may be that it is an older unit and the police have newer radar guns with a different frequency.
I have a Uniden WeatherTracker/BearTracker BCT-12 and have yet to find a correlation between its Highway Alert and any law enforcement vehicles nearby. For those of you who have one, does it seem to work?
I have a BCT-7, which is a slightly more scanner-like version of the same unit. Yes, it works. But, it works within certain limitations. Namely, it's range is (on a good day) about three miles, but that three miles is in front, behind and to the sides. I used to get lots of alerts on the highway from cops in local towns and sometimes courthouses that I was breezing through.
My BCT-7 saved my butt a couple of times. Paid for itself in two trips.
I asked Uniden twice how often they verify/update the list of built-in frequencies for the BCT-12, etc., since you can only set it by state and Canadian provice, not frequency. They never answered.
AFAIK, they never update that list of frequencies. That's why I like the BCT-7 unit instead of the BCT-10 or -12. With the BCT-7, you can input up to 10 of your own frequencies into each of the frequency lists (police, highway, fire) that will trigger the alarm. I would hit the WWW for a list of frequencies in my area, punch them into the unit and presto!
As a point of curiosity, how often do you think the police change their frequencies? I don't think the Fla Highway Patrol has changed freqs since I used to be in law enforcement (and that was many years ago). I would think that the costs of doing that would be substantial and not particularly beneficial. I certainly could be wrong, but I used a bearcat on a trip to and from Va-Fl and I certainly heard plenty of chatter on the turnpikes and interstates which was identified by the receiver as "HP". I really don't much care about the local police. If I am on a small rural road, I would say it is less than prudent to rely on this for much. I just think this is not much of an issue.
Comments
http://www.copradar.com/preview/chapt7/ch7d1.html
I know it's not feasible, but wouldn't it be nice? Just point it at the cop car, zap him, and he has no power at all, all systems down.
Ok, I'll keep dreaming...
Besides, can you imagine trying to install that on your car? I bet your mpg would stink.
You have to realize that whenever you start posting anything on the Internet it radiates out all over cyberspace. So, be careful and check your pulse periodically, especially if you are using those new magnetic insoles.
My apologies...you are EMPtirely correct. Those tanks would be totally destroyed, therefore EMPty.
Anyway, I want to upgrade to a V1 for the new car, but it has some kind of "sun-blocker" that my '98 doesn't have across the top of the windshield. My question is will this checker-board type sun blocker effect performance? Has anyone else mounted a radar in a 2000 Deville of any trim level? Any constructive input welcome.
Thanks!
If BEL provides that size fuse in the CLA you should use the same 3 amp value in your hard wiring job....unless you want to toast your detector if there's a short somewhere. The geniuses at Radio Shack can aim you to any in-line fuse holder. Just be sure to buy a couple of 3 amp fuses in case the holder comes with some other amperage fuse.
I also prefer to make my connection near the mirror, as it gets your detector up high where it will give you maximum range. You might want to check to see if the power source that you are planning to tap is switched on/off by your ignition switch. That would be best, as you might not want your detector to remain powered on (overnight?) when you remove your ignition key and don't manually switch your detector off.
No directions or hit counter. But I'm not sure that will be very beneficial to me. I also like the dimming features on the Bel. The jury is still out though ... haven't made up my mind just yet.
Anyone ever made a purchase there?
My money is on the V1.
My money was and IS on the Valentine 1. The arrows' indication of the direction from which the "threat" is coming, are hands-down the best, most valuable, feature. You can't beat the range either.
All anyone needs, to convince themselves of the virtues of the V1, is to pay the cost of the ticket and several years of higher insurance premiums after getting a citation with a lesser unit.
http://www.speedzones.com/companys/valentine/valentine.html
you will see that the V1 beat the 980 in the comparison.
I hate wires hanging all over my car, but I'm not the mechanic-type. The guy at V1 said all I need to do is attach the main unit to a visor, tuck the cord behind the windshield and run it down to the fuse box to an adaptor that comes with it. And the concealment unit can be plugged into the fuse box too. I have a 2001 Acura CL-type S. Will it be as easy as it sounds?
And besides, after the V1 saves your sorry [non-permissible content removed] from Smokey, you'll be loving us all over again.
to blane, I have confirmed that the lead that I'm going to use from my mirror is switched with the ignition. considering I have left my current detector on over night several times, I'm really looking forward to not having to worry about it. Let me ask you this, does the quick on, off, and on that occurs with many electrical systems at start-up turn the detector on, off, then on again, and can that cycle fry the detector (even with the fuse, of course)?
I agree with joe166. You should not be concerned.
Also, if it's not any good, can I replace it and still hard-wire the new one in to the dash or does it have to be windshield to get full range?
Any info will be appreciated.
I was looking into one of these since I live in VA. From what I have heard, they are equivalent to an above average detector.
Theoretically, the sonaradar should get faster as you approach a radar trap. If it is not doing so, it may be that it is an older unit and the police have newer radar guns with a different frequency.
It's also possible that the cops are using laser.
and have yet to find a correlation between its
Highway Alert and any law enforcement vehicles
nearby. For those of you who have one, does it
seem to work?
My BCT-7 saved my butt a couple of times. Paid for itself in two trips.