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what is it worth

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You are right about at break even now. As a totally restored car, it has a potential value of around $6K-7K, and not many prospects for rapid appreciation. However, Mets should at least retain the value they have. If you really like Metros enough to restore one, I would suggest a convertible, which has considerably more value when restored ($10-12K ). But if you put a decent but not show quality paint job on the car you have right now for $2,000 or so, and don't do much else, you'd be borderline okay with the value. So there is a little room for you if you're careful about expenses.

    They're cute car, and I rather like them as objects to look at, or drive around town slowly. As you know, they are a bit frightening to drive with any verve, so as long as you know you're not in a sports car, they can be a lot of fun. And you can steal engine parts off an MG if you need them!
  • rustrust Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advice. That's is what we are going to do. We'll do the body prep ourselves and go for about a $1000 to $1500 paint job.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Good decision, I think. Try to keep the same color, though, and not use too much bondo if you can help it.
  • deshawdeshaw Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1977 Corvette which is in excellent condition with 18,989 miles, garage kept. I would like to get an idea what it might be worth?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    First of all, can you absolutely, legally, without a doubt document those low miles and stand behind them?

    If not, the value would be around $10,000. With those low miles provable, I personally would not refuse an offer of $15,000 if someone made it. This presumes a perfect car...deduct accordingly for defects in paint, upholstery, etc.

    There is a similar car offered in Hemmings for $19,500, but I myself think this is the moon and stars for the car. Of course, more power to someone who gets that price, but it seems too high for the market. But if you're willing to wait, advertise a lot, etc., who knows?
  • munkyhausmunkyhaus Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1971 Porsche 914 that according to your scale I would rate at a 3-3.5.
    77,300mi, good chrome, no rust, no dents,
    red paint is a little dull so it could use a paint job but wouldn't need it to be a daily driver.
    could you give me a ballpark selling figure?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh,....maybe $3,500-4,000 if you cleaned it up really nice and it ran well with no problems....I sold a decent #3 for $3,000 but that was 3-4 years ago...the 2.0 model is the easiest to sell for obvious reasons.
  • chris396chris396 Member Posts: 53
    What about a '68 Mercury "something or another" ex-police car? The car is maroon with black interior and has a 428 in it. It looked to be in good shape when I looked at it a few years ago sitting in a warehouse. I think I can buy the car for around $2,500. What kind of prices are police cars going for?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not much at all *unless* they have all the equipment and markings...then they can be used for photo shoots and movies. Otherwise, if there's no equipment, treat it as you would any old used 4-door car. So $2,500 would be okay if it had all the lights, bars, cage, siren etc. You can always add new markings or put on magnetic ones.
  • wilcoxwilcox Member Posts: 582
    that police cars would be worth alot more money due to all the extra mechanical and body work they required, plus most of them were used 24 hours a day in severe constant duty....(so you know they're reliable..), etc.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yes, one would think, but the value is determined by demand, not logic, and there really isn't much demand for a big old gas-sucking 4-door American car that's been driven in the ground with hard service unless it still has all the police goodies on it. "Clothes make the man" and the car, too. Police cars just don't look very good naked!
  • chris396chris396 Member Posts: 53
    The car is naked. No police stuff on it anymore except for the spotlight.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd think it would be worth even less than a civilian equivalent in equal condition. Police cars are usually pretty tired when retired.
  • andre1969andre1969 Member Posts: 26,023
    Mr. Shiftright,

    I'm just curious what you think of the Mopar M-body police cruisers. I've got a 1989 Plymouth Gran Fury. It was a Richmond VA sheriff's car, pretty well equipped, with power windows, door locks, mirrors, tilt wheel/air bag (how many cars had that combo back then ;-) cloth interior, stereo system w/ cassette, etc. It's a lot nicer than most of the cruisers back then, which usually only had vinyl seats, rubber mats, and no power accessories.

    I've got about 110 K miles on it (bought it in the summer of '98 with 73K on it, and it's been pretty reliable. I would think something like this, while hardly a classic, would at least be worth more than a civilian M-body. It has a 318 4bbl with 175 hp, 2.94 gearing, cop tires, cop suspension, etc. By comparison, the civvie versions would have only had 130 (maybe 140 hp), 2.43 gearing, limp suspensions, etc.

    As far as ridiculous pricing, how does this sound...I saw a civvie Gran Fury, 1987 or so, at the Mopar nationals at Carlisle. It was in nice shape, but not much nicer than my ex-police car. He wanted something like $7 grand for it! I guess it just goes to show that some people think just because it's old, it's valuable!
    -Andre
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    People can ask whatever they want I guess.

    My reasoning abou the civilian vs former police car value is that without the equipment, the police car is just a repainted and pretty well used civilian car anyway. True, it might have some special equipment, and perhaps that would appeal to someone, but in general most old police cars, once stripped of their equipement, don't have much eye appeal. There could be exceptions, but all those bells and lights and sirens are what people want.

    Even so, police cruisers in top shape with all their equipment don't really pull big prices, nor do ambulances or fire trucks, etc. Your best bets are still convertible anythings or coupes with monster engines.
  • additurpadditurp Member Posts: 9
    I love classics. My mom sold her 1964 Impala and my sister sold her 1967 Stang before I could drive but I love the muscles.
    My problem is: Stupid, beginner looker for a great old classic - Which numbers matching are the most important , if looking for original. How much does not having matching numbers hurt?? If you modify, will this change the value, if you do not touch numbers?? Mostly common sense, I know, would tell you the more original "sitting in my barn for 54 years....only 15 original miles" is worth more BUT what are the guidelines? Everyone I ask has a different answer...Is there a book to read or internet for Very Naive New Collectors?
    By the way, I will NOT buy until I have researched so thanks but no thanks to the sellers who see me as an easy mark..I may be cheap but not easy.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    People who are "cheap" usually end up with the "cheap" cars.

    They are usually cheap for a reason.

    First, you need to define what you really want.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Exactly....you need to know what you are looking for in order to find it!

    Ultimately a car is worth what someone will pay for it. But there are certain guidelines when choosing your first "collectible" car.

    First of all, however, you have to ask yourself this question:

    Am I interested in a car that will retain or increase in value, or do I just want to drive an old car? (BIG DIFFERENCE therefore in what you buy!)

    RE: MATCHING NUMBERS--- I really don't know how this crazy business got started with mass-produced cars, but there's no turning back and there seems to be no way to apply common sense to it--so we are stuck with this idea that matching numbers are important.

    But are they with all cars? I don't think so. Probably they are important in cars that are a) truly, truly rare and can be counterfeited (e.g., certain muscle cars) or b) cars that identified the engine in the car's VIN number. But does it matter if a 1964 Impala 283 V8 has matching numbers from a factory build sheet? No, I don't think so. Do old Jaguar owners care? Often they don't--as long as the correct engine is in there. Do vintage race car owners care? Often not, as long as the engine is a contemporary power plant.
    Does a 1980s Corvette owner care? Yes, he does, but for the life of me I don't know why he should worry about that on such a car. Does someone shopping for an original Hemi Cuda care? Yes, big time, and he probably should.

    Basically, ANY kind of "special equipment", ANY kind of "rare option", ANY kind of low production number.....all of this ONLY MATTERS IF SOMEONE CARES!

    In other words--a 1965 Blatomobile with pink sun visors and optional power mirrors is a very rare set of options...in fact, no one has EVER seen these options on a '65 Blat...and you know what, it's worthless, because nobody cares about the '65 Blat, so why care about the options?

    As a general guidelines, open cars from well-known manufacturers are the most valuable and collectible, with two door hardtops following. The least collectible are 4-door cars, with a rare exception being 4-door American muscle cars...TRUE muscle cars, however, like Hemis or 409 Chevys...not just a big 4-door with a big engine...that won't cut it in the collectible market.

    "Off-makes" will be worth less, like Studebakers and Deloreans and Nashes and modern (50s) Packards, with certain rare exceptions such as open cars.

    Also, certain eras of cars are worth less...20s cars are not as desirable as most 30s cars, and late 40s and early 50s cars do not attract the attention that late 50s to early 70s cars do. Most 1980s/90s cars are not collectible, and may never be, again with the rare exceptions of supercars and rare expensive models in an open or coupe configuration.

    Last of all, you should always try to get your information from "disinterested" parties. Club owners are GREAT for technical and historical info, but they tend to overinflate the value and sometimes the importance of their cars (understandable, I do the same thing, so don't ask me about Alfa Romeos!).

    A great publication to subscribe to would be Sports Car Market Magazine --have a look at www.ecarcentral.com

    good luck with your search!

    Shiftright your host
  • calikidcalikid Member Posts: 1
    Growing up my dad had a triumph TR250. I've heard these cars are very rare but I don't know a lot about them. I remember how much fun it was and have since bought an alfa. Would this car be worth a lot today?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Not really, although it has some appeal as a "classic" British type of sportscar...probably $10,000 would buy you a fantastic example. It's a case where rarity doesn't necessary mean more value than the TR6 with the newer body style. I think an Alfa would outperform it in every category except maybe low end torque, and the Alfa would be way more comfy.

    That being said, the TR250 and TR6 will probably continue to go up in value as their numbers decrease...you have to remember these were not expensive or high performance cars to begin with, so they can't pull prices like old jaguars and ferraris.
  • armyhooksarmyhooks Member Posts: 1
    1961 starfire olds good cond 90000 miles
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Check the class of condition topic #5 in the Topic List for this board and then come back and tell us what you have in terms of the condition rating. The prices vary widely depending on condition for this car. You can also use a = or -, as in +3 or -4, etc.
  • erucehteruceht Member Posts: 26
    Does anyone know the value of a 1975 Cadillac Eldorado? Its in very good condition inside and out with only 55,000 miles.
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