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Ed
Has anyone ever experienced a roaring noise (sounds like roaring noise is coming from the engine) when you first start the engine or first accelerate while taking off? It seems that after a couple of minutes of driving the noise quits.We recently bought a 18' travel trailer but before we did we had the transmisson beefed up and completly rebuilt. Yesterday while driving on the interstate with the travel trailer I had the Bravada on cruise contol and as we went up a small incline the engine started roaring as if the Bravada was in neutrial and some one was pushing on the gas and revering the engine. This happened only once on the interstate. After getting off the interstate we had made a complete stop at a red light and as I accelerated the roaring noise started again. The transmission didn't seem to slip and we didn't lose any power. After that it never did it again. Our Bravada's max towing load is 5600 LBS. and we were towing 4200 Lbs. It's really hard to exactly figure out if the noise is coming from the engine or the transmission.If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated. I just don't want to blow an engine or tear the transmission up.
Thanks,
Sonny9
Kruz
About three months ago I was stopped at a traffic light and at acceleration there was a little pop under the hood and the car died in the middle of an intersection. Right before it died, all of the gauges went crazy, then nothing. It wouldn't start. Had it towed to the service station and they said it was the fuel pump. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter, and one month later the Service Engine light came on and a few miles later, DEAD again. I had it towed again and was told it was the fuel pump (again). It was replaced at no cost to me.
About three weeks after that the vehicle started over heating on short (four mile drives to work), it was the radiator and I had it replaced. Now, I don't have any heat. The blower must be working because the AC works.
Yesterday, less than one month later, the car started idling really rough while stopped at a traffic light. When I put my foot on the gas, there was no power, just hesitation, (hard to explain) then the car died, again, in the middle of a busy intersection, no warning lights came on. It started up in about a half hour but did the same thing about two miles down the road. I'm scared to death to drive it.
Does anyone know what's going on? I have so much money invested at my service station and I don't know if they're missing something or doing something wrong. I'm scared to death to drive it because there is no warning when it dies and it's always at an intersection.
Two days ago I spent $800.00 for new tires so I really hate to sell it, plus, aside from these last three months (I've had it for four years), I've had no problems and I do love the vehicle, it has all the bells and whistles on it and it handles great in all kinds of weather and it's in beautiful condition. Can anyone help this lady in distress?
If I find out what it is I will let you all know unless you find out first.
Goodyguy~
Next!! Big issue! Only when the truck is cold, like in the mornings, it takes forever to start (about 8 tries). We have had the fuel pump checked and been told that it is fine. We have had the distributer cap, plugs and wires all replaced, along with the fuel relay. Can anyone help with the diagnoses?? Could it be the MAPS sen.? We were told to stop sinking money into it but it runsd GREAT after we get it started. We also noticed when we take the gas cap off, there is a release of fumes, you can hear the hiss for a few seconds.
its very hard to start without starting fluid
I'm getting a lot of mixed information on tread wear differences putting a strain on the AWD system, ABS system, and differentials. Some say 1/32" tire tread difference, 1/8", 1/4"!
My manual says nothing AT ALL about it and only comments on importance of not using mismatched tires/sizes. Since my 98 is full time all wheel drive, and not on automatic demand, I wonder if that's why one dealer serviceman said it shouldn't make any difference unless I notice the ABS light go on.
Does anyone review year models to determine how crucial this issue is, or just accept the latest status quo, that newer vehicles demand...1/32"?
Is there a tech out there with the low down?
This may be helpful: Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Goodbye to all.
How did you fix your problem?
I am going to try and change my transfer case oil first, I have not done that in a while.
I found this on the internet in a forum:
Also started noticing "crow hop" in the front end, due to the transfer case shift module.
I started doing some research, and have found that there is supposed to be power to the front axle all the time, but the transfer case shift module may be jammed causing the transfer case to apply maximum torque to the front axle all of the time. GM wants $980 CAN for a new encoder motor. That's a bit ridiculous I think.
I think it could one of 3 things. I put close to $1700.00 in to my awd system this year. It could be an internal problem. It could be the computer board that runs the whole system. The most likely problem is the encoder motor that is on the side of the transfer case that engages the internal clutch plates to engage the awd. I paid close to $600.00 for this motor from my GM shop. Best thing to do is that the bravada to a GM shop and they can plug a computer into it and drive it around and try to find out the problem. Also my GM shop said to flush the transfer case every 10,000 to 15,000 miles to keep the transfer case in best working condition.
I hope this helps. Please let me know what you find out.
Kevin
This might be so simple as to be too easy. We just purchased a 1999 Bravada. Driving it home was an ease until I lost all power. Lucky to get it off the highway and into a truck stop.
We needed to leave it there all night so wanted to get it in a good position. We could not get it out of park. So charged the battery enough to start the car and get it moved into a good position.
A mechanic there stated it was an alternator. The battery is new.
We are going back tomorrow but want to make sure the alternator is bad before we purchase a new one.
Anyway, hope this helps.
I didn't think anyone responded to these messages, you're the first person who has, thanks. I'm not sure I'll be much help though. I've replaced two fuel pumps, the radiator, the thermostat and had other things done that I don't even remember. The vehicle has cost me a small fortune and it still isn't running right, although replacing the thermostat has given me some heat, but not quite the way it was before all this started. And yes, it still acts like it wants to stall out when stopped at a traffic light. The latest Idiosyncrasy is the fuel gage, it is fluctuating from full to half full even when the tank is full. Someone told me never to let the tank go less than half which seems to have stopped the car from quitting while driving it, I think, but I still don't trust the vehicle on long trips. The sad part is I really love the cars but I totally understand why they stopped making them. Please let me know if you get any answers.
I just purchased a 2002 Bravada yesterday and drove it home. It does have a squeek in the steering column when you turn the wheel and this morning when I started it, it made a very loud clicking noise in the dash or steering column. Does anyone know what this is? I recieved a 3 month 3,000 mile powertrain warranty will that cover whatever the problem is?
Thanks for all of your help!
Robin
thanks
Be sure to check out the other topics here (click on the Oldsmobile Bravada link near the top of this page) where you can get help from other members and you can share your ideas and knowledge with them.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper