Thanks... that may be why my spare key fob doesn't work either. Apparently, in showing off the car (locking it with the fob, then opening the trunk), I accidently put it in VALET mode, but the fact that I can't get it back to regular mode is what the dealer is going to fix by re-programming both my keys. Normally, I should be able to lock then unlock with the fob, resetting it back from valet mode. But it's not working. Will let you know if the dealer was able to fix...
I just bought a 2010 xle fully loaded w/ Navigation, bluetooth, leather with heated seats, rear seat adjuster, dual seat auto adj moonroof, alloy wheels etc etc minus the keyless entry for $27,607. plus processin fee of 389, Tax of 839, 7 yr 75k Platinum Extended service warranty + 3yr 40k free maintance/Premium auto care for 1,916, Gap insurance for 600 and with all other fees. So by the time I walked out of the door, the car cost me about 31.2k. I think it was a good deal. please le tme know if anyone thinks otherwise.. I still have 2 days to cancel the deal..!!
If I were you, I would look elsewhere for the warranty, that price is WAY too high!!! Look around, I believe you can get a 100K for under $900 that is a Toyota warranty. Besides, with the reliability of the Toyota, do you really need the warranty?
To alzz84: congrats on your new XLE purchase -- enjoy it. I bough my '09 LE in April 2008 and probably paid too much. Gas was headed for $4 a gal and those 4 cyl models were in high demand. More than likely you paid a fair price for what you got.
Besides, with the reliability of the Toyota, do you really need the warranty?
I agree. The probability of actually having to use the 100K from what I've read is pretty low. But, if it provides peace of mind then it's worth it.
SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good starting in cold weather.
If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used. However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.
I will get my first oil change when I reach 5k from the dealer. Does the 2010 Camry come from factory with synthetic 0W20? Will using 5W20 void the warranty? I would later do the oil change myself.
I doubt if the dealer will use the synthetic instead of regular. This remains to be seen.
If you open the hood and look on the oil cap, you will see it states 5W20. Best bet, use Mobil 1 with a Toyota Filter. Running 5W20 will not hurt anything and will not void the warranty. The reason they want you to use 0W20 is more for CAFE and EPA standards than anything else. Think back to the old days when the norm was 10W30 in the winter and 10W40 in the summer, now they use 0 and 5W20 instead. I run 5W20 year round in upper IL where it gets cold in the winter, the car sits outside and never have I had a problem with starting it. Using Mobil one also prevents sludge from forming, and my oil changes are anywhere from 7500 to 15000 miles between changes, with just a filter replacement between changes. The engine is spotless, and the oil analysis comes back with life still left in the oil. Using a good quality oil is key to longevity, and getting more miles out of a quart of oil also helps keep the waste out of the environment.
"If you open the hood and look on the oil cap, you will see it states 5W20."
THIS IS WRONG! It says 0W-20 on the cap of 2010 Camry I4s. You must have a 2009 or earlier with the 2.4L engine. 2010's have a 2.5L.
I agree that the manufacturers are going to 0W20 for CAFE and EPA purposes, but I would NOT take the risk of running 5W-20. If a problem with the engine occurred, and they see that you used 5W-20, they could very easily deny coverage. Also, they will deny coverage if you do not change your oil at 5,000 mile intervals.
If you are willing to take the risk, go for it, but the manual says 0W-20 on 5,000 mile changes.
I know I opened up the hood when I was @ the dealer and the cap says 0W20. I verified again and it is 0W20. So it's synthetic oil for me.
When I get the 1st oil change from the dealer I will make sure they put synth... not dino oil. After that, I will DIY every 5,000 with orig Toy filter.
Dealers, generally, only have re-refined (used) oil in stock, if you want synthetic your best bet is to buy it and take it to the dealer. But don't be surprised if its still in the car when they're done. McD "flipper" graduates do a lot of the dealer's ROUTINE maintenance procedures and they do not always remember to step outside the ROUTINE.
Worse yet is to drive away only to later find that your engine is filled with ~5 qts of "used" AND YOUR 5 qts.
Toyota corp. cannot control the dealers, so make sure your dealer is good. The one I go to has synthetic oil. However, I do it myself. By the way, if you save your receipts for purchasing oil and filters, and log your miles and dates of oil changes, it is perfectly acceptable to change the oil yourself. Your warranty will be valid if you have this info - this is the law
I have had several kinds of filter wrench. The best that I have for the Camry would be "Lisle 63250 Wide Range Filter Wrench"link title I bought mine from Pepboys.
My bad, didn't see the year as 2010, I have an 09 Hybrid, and it has 5W20 stamped on it. Also, if you use 5W20, and the manual states you can use 5W20, they cannot void your warranty. I also run oil analysis on every oil or filter change and have that report in the maintenance logs to show the status of the oil properties which can tell you what kind of wear is in the engine, the different elements relate to the different parts in the engine, Nickel/copper for the bearings, Aluminum for the pistons, etc. After 32000 miles the indicators for mine have been below average, which means the engine is wearing very well, and if something were to let go right now, it wouldn't be due to an oil problem.
FYI Volkswagen TDI recommended oil intervals are 10,000 miles on synthetic.
Yes, the 2007-2009 use 5W-20 OR 0W-20. Well, the 2010 manual states you can use 5W-20, BUT you should change back to 0W-20 as soon as possible, or something like that. So I'll be running 0W-20 on my '10, 5W-20 on my '07. Based on your oil analysis, these engines should last forever using the required 0W-20 on 5,000 mile changes!!
Are you talking about the washers, for putting windshield washer fluid on the windshield? If so, on my 2007 (same new body style) they are tucked underneath the trailing edge of the front hood, so you don't see them.
My wife wants the little spoiler accessory added to the new 2010 LE she just bought. Is it a bad idea to let the dealer do this? I worry they will damage the integrity of the paint or something and she will have a rust problem in a few years. I would not have a problem if it had come with it, but we bought just the basic LE. How do they attach it? Appreciate any input.
We just got our 2010 LE last week and I was thinking about the spoiler. But when I asked the dealer, he said it would be $450 for the spoiler where it was only a $300 option. Also, I'm not even sure it really adds much, if anything. tp the overall looks. Our white Camry looks very sharp to me as is.
I am considering an overall ground effects kit for my 09 Camry, and found a spoiler that is a little better looking than the Toyota one. It costs $255 + Shipping.
I don't like the spoiler either, but hey it is my wife's new car and she likes spoilers. What can i say, different strokes for diff. folks. I got the car so cheap at Zero that I could be generous, she wants a chrome tip on the exhaust to. So, back to the original question. Can the dealer install it without screwing things up body integrity wise? I drive the 03 model, "no spoiler." I hope this one is as reliale as that one has been.
Most new automatic climate control systems moderate the cooling level so as to not discomfort the front seat passengers. To find out just how COLD these systems can get run them in recirculate, maximum cooling setting, and a low blower speed.
Mine is great. On really hot, humid days, I put it on recirculate. But nothing beats the old R-12 freon that they used until the early '90s. All cars now come with R134A, and it is not as cold. Again, my '10 and '07 are just fine on hot and humid days. There's a slim chance that something was not done properly at the factory, but I'd bet it is fine. Try recirculate.
I found out today that Mobil 1 is available at Walmart 6.27/qt. Didn't see this in the 5qt jug. I checked also another Walmart but they have only the 5W20 and other grades. Pep Boys has it 6.99. Now I know where to go if the Toyota OEM oil is expensive.
Autozone has 5 quarts of Mobil one and a Mobil one filter for $30 right now.
I agree about the spoiler spoiling the car. Hurts rear visability and breaks up the natural lines of the car. California won't allow a small gps on the windshield, but it is OK to block a large portion of your rear view with a spoiler.
I just paid $5.49 a quart for 5W20 Mobil 1. I got that for the Veracruz, but finding a filter was a chore, only Fram makes one, unless I go to the dealer.
Yes, Mobil 1 0W20 for the 2010 Camrys is only available right now in quarts, and yes, WalMart is $6.27 per quart, the cheapest I've seen. I've seen it at Autozone, but again, only in quarts. I cannot remember the price at Autozone, but it was more than WalMart.
For the 2007-2009 I4 Camrys, 5w-20 is available in synthetic and dino just about anywhere.
My Dad just leased a new 2010 Camry XLE in FL. 3 - 4 times he has been unable to unlock the steering wheel and start the car. Toyota claims that "unless you part the car with the wheels pointed straight ahead - this will happen." They claim "it is most likely to happen if the wheels are turns 10 degrees in either direction."
The solution is to turn the steering wheel hard in the direction the wheels are turned while at the same time engaging the ignition and the key will be allowed to turn in the column and the car will start.
Has anyone out there heard about this or experienced the same?
This doesn't just happen in Toyotas, it can happen in any car. What happens is the wheels are in a position that once the power steering is off, they move ever so slightly so that pressure is exerted against the locking pin in the steering wheel, so when you try to start it, the pin is bound against the lock plate making it difficult to turn the key. Dealer isn't blowing smoke this time, it happens to a lot of cars, and usually when the car is parked in such a way that it will roll after the car is in park and the brakes are released. I had a Ford LTD that you couldnt get the transmission out of park if it rolled back any little bit and put pressure on the parking pawl, the steering lock is nearly the same thing. In some cars if you lock the ignition and try to turn the steering wheel, you can, until it clicks and locks, and then you will find that it is hard to unlock the ignition.
Did you get the spoiler installed on your wife's car? If so, what did it involve? Now, I'm sort of thinking of having it put on my wife's new white 2010 LE having seen a couple of white Camrys that look good with it. But I should have just ordered it with a spoiler. It's a $275 option, but now the dealer wants $415 for the part and installation. Dumb.
Toyota dealers do not only have re-refined (used) oil in stock. No Toyota dealer in the US sells used oil. What a crock. They used all grades of oil which can be used for your vehicle and all have to meet GF4 requirements. Toyota is not bound to use the Toyota oil but all the oil meets GF4 specs. the 0w20 is a full synthetic oil and you can get the 5w20 in full or blend. To say dealers only have used oil is nothing but a lie.
Since most 2010 owners have not yet have their first oil change, what would it normally be at the dealer, synthetic 0W20 or just regular 5W20? The manual specifies 0W20 which only comes in full synthetic therefore I would think that an oil change would be pricey. This leaves no recourse but to do it yourself.
I'm about to buy a 2010 XLE V6 Camry sight unseen. I've seen the model...but it has an option listed as "Nano Heat Rejection Window Tint-TWHR50". Has anyone seen this? Is it dark? Does it look like a mirror?
Before you do, give the Ford Fusion a try out. I just traded my Camry Hybrid on a Fusion Sport, and it is SOOO MUCH BETTER!!!!!! They also have 0% for 60 if you are looking to finance. The Fusion rides on rails compared to the Camry, and looks better too.
Seriously, check out the Fusion before you put any money down, you may like it more, or you may not, but at least you wont be wondering "what if".
I just bought the Camry Hybrid fully loaded after comparing to the Fusion Hybrid. The Fusion was nice but I thought the interior was cheap looking, the engine moaned and struggled to accelerate and was nisy. The Camry appeared to be better built and in black I thought looked better. Finally, I purchased the Camry at close to invoice while I could only buy the Fusion at MSRP. Oh yeh, one more thing, the camry was buily in Kentucky while the Fusion was built in Mexico. So far I love my Camry.
I am getting a periodic rattle under the dash towards the passenger side. Like I said, it's random in nature and sounds like a cell phone on vibrate sitting on the table for lack of better description.
I have read in other year Camry forums this has been a problem in prior year models.
It's not consistent enough yet to take in as it might not present itself on the test drive. I have a recording of it and have offered to send it to the service department but they are uninterested.
I was told at sale the 2010 Camry is straight Synthetic. Especially since the maintenance interval is 6 months or 5K miles. My guess is it's about a ~$125.00 service including tire rotations.
$125? WOW, The oil itself is only $35, $10 for a filter. What the heck else are they doing that is costing $90?
This is why I do my own maintenance, I can do all that in my driveway and save $90.
Do yourself a favor, find a reputable mechanic and save yourself some money. Heck even a local Goodyear tire store can do all that for you and cost maybe only half as much.
It happens to my 2010 base L4 camry as well. The rattling noise seems coming from the air vent. It randomly happens when I have both air condition and air recycle control turned on in medium to full blast. I took it to dealer and they said there are nothing inside the vent because it is hallow inside and they don't know why that is happening.
I just decided to live with it because I don't want the dealer dismentle the whole dashboard for troubleshooting. Dismentling the whole dash will losen up things inside and may worsen the problem.
I posted previously about the seat noise, it is coming back with the newly replaced seat. I think Toyota has to address these quality issues for the furture design/production. My trust to Toyota is fading. I am not sure if these quality issues are the result of cost cutting and trying to stay compatitive in this seden market segment.
Comments
I thought waiting for after the C4C. How long should I wait?
...late Nov. or Dec.
Besides, with the reliability of the Toyota, do you really need the warranty?
I agree. The probability of actually having to use the 100K from what I've read is pretty low. But, if it provides peace of mind then it's worth it.
SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and good
starting in cold weather.
If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 oil may be used.
However, it must be replaced with SAE 0W-20 at the next oil change.
I will get my first oil change when I reach 5k from the dealer.
Does the 2010 Camry come from factory with synthetic 0W20?
Will using 5W20 void the warranty? I would later do the oil change myself.
I doubt if the dealer will use the synthetic instead of regular.
This remains to be seen.
THIS IS WRONG! It says 0W-20 on the cap of 2010 Camry I4s. You must have a 2009 or earlier with the 2.4L engine. 2010's have a 2.5L.
I agree that the manufacturers are going to 0W20 for CAFE and EPA purposes, but I would NOT take the risk of running 5W-20. If a problem with the engine occurred, and they see that you used 5W-20, they could very easily deny coverage. Also, they will deny coverage if you do not change your oil at 5,000 mile intervals.
If you are willing to take the risk, go for it, but the manual says 0W-20 on 5,000 mile changes.
I verified again and it is 0W20. So it's synthetic oil for me.
When I get the 1st oil change from the dealer I will make sure they put synth...
not dino oil. After that, I will DIY every 5,000 with orig Toy filter.
Thanks.
Worse yet is to drive away only to later find that your engine is filled with ~5 qts of "used" AND YOUR 5 qts.
Is this the by product of the Recycled Oil that we turn in to Autozone
Pep Boys and Kragen?
Toyota would be taking a risk with their cars. Unbelievable.
"Lisle 63250 Wide Range Filter Wrench"link title
I bought mine from Pepboys.
Do They care? They should its their warranty on the line
FYI Volkswagen TDI recommended oil intervals are 10,000 miles on synthetic.
tia,
Chris
2010 Toyota Camry Spoiler Painted
RK Sport It may fit the 2010.
A/C is not as cold as I think it should be. I'm taking it into the dealer this morning and will post outcome.
I have had Nissan's previously and this is my first Toyota. Like the heavy feel and very roomy cabin. And at 0 % for 5 years that's hard to beat.
Just need a cooler A/C system.
Pep Boys has it 6.99. Now I know where to go if the Toyota OEM oil is expensive.
I agree about the spoiler spoiling the car. Hurts rear visability and breaks up the natural lines of the car. California won't allow a small gps on the windshield, but it is OK to block a large portion of your rear view with a spoiler.
They also hurt fuel economy.
For the 2007-2009 I4 Camrys, 5w-20 is available in synthetic and dino just about anywhere.
The solution is to turn the steering wheel hard in the direction the wheels are turned while at the same time engaging the ignition and the key will be allowed to turn in the column and the car will start.
Has anyone out there heard about this or experienced the same?
Gary
http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/Automotive/pdf/Mobil1Rebatepdf.pdf
http://www.pennzoil.com/documents/04946%20PZ%20online%20form.pdf
castrol
You may be correct, it's only a Lexus dealer that I know for sure sells re-refined engine oil.
Seriously, check out the Fusion before you put any money down, you may like it more, or you may not, but at least you wont be wondering "what if".
I have read in other year Camry forums this has been a problem in prior year models.
It's not consistent enough yet to take in as it might not present itself on the test drive. I have a recording of it and have offered to send it to the service department but they are uninterested.
Any idea what that rattle could be?
This is why I do my own maintenance, I can do all that in my driveway and save $90.
Do yourself a favor, find a reputable mechanic and save yourself some money. Heck even a local Goodyear tire store can do all that for you and cost maybe only half as much.
The dealers around my area only use regular oil and I usually get their $24.99 coupons w/ free wash, no tire rotation.
I just decided to live with it because I don't want the dealer dismentle the whole dashboard for troubleshooting. Dismentling the whole dash will losen up things inside and may worsen the problem.
I posted previously about the seat noise, it is coming back with the newly replaced seat.
I think Toyota has to address these quality issues for the furture design/production. My trust to Toyota is fading. I am not sure if these quality issues are the result of cost cutting and trying to stay compatitive in this seden market segment.