Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Have you recently used your tax refund (or are you planning on using your tax refund) toward the payment of a new or used vehicle? Or, are you planning on using your tax refund toward any expenses related to your car?
If so, a reporter would like to talk to you. Please reach out to [email protected] by Friday, January 25 and the Edmunds PR team may connect you with the journalist.

Are you the parent of a generation Z child (born in the mid-1990s to the early 2000s)? Do you have differing opinions on the importance of buying a car, what types of vehicles you're interested in, or just how you view cars in general? If so, a reporter would like to speak with you and your child. Please reach out to [email protected] by Friday, January 25 and the Edmunds PR team may connect you with the journalist.

Oldsmobile Intrigue Maintenance and Repair

pcxpcx Posts: 2
I have a 1999 3.5 GLS with 120,000 miles, auto. This weekend it ceased to catch in any gear. I can move the shifter through reverse, park, Drive, 1,2, and 3 but nothing happens. I only care about being able to drive but will list all known problems in case it helps.

1) Car seemed to hesitate in first gear. This was a one day event when it was foggy. Never happened before or after. Short drive, don't know if it would have persisted once warmed up.
2) Two days later, after oil change, car drove fine. Driving 35mph, a thunk, and then total loss of propulsion. Engine kept running and sounds fine. Transmission doesn't seem to want to engage.
3) After sitting two hours, I started the car. Car shifted into gear. A slight whining noise from engine or under car. Shift to Park to look. Transmission disengages and will no longer find any gear. Shifter moves normally with no binding. Engine light is on, don't have codes.
4) Day later. Mechanic goes to tow car, but says car shifted into gear. Not sure of details if towed or drove to shop. They don't want to touch it because the don't do transmissions.

Other problems, probably not related nor of major concern.
a) Burns 2 Quart of oil every 3000 miles
b) Starts up, then dies. Always starts right back up. Pumping gas helps. Either way car revs high, then runs fine.
c) Refuses to start (once in 3 years)
d) Windows don't work in warm weather
e) Wife wants mini-van but loves the car.

Tonight I I've found a number of posts about the starting/dieing problem, but nothing about the failure to catch a gear. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Remember, I can shift, it just doesn't engage. Thanks


  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    If the transmission not engaging is a regular occurence, you need to have a shop look it over. At the very least replace the transmission fluid to see if this improves or worsens the situation.

    The 3.5L engines burn oil. NO getting around this. At some point after 60k miles they will begin to burn oil. Watch your "low oil" light and keep a bottle of oil in the trunk. I have the Walmart 5 quart jug in my trunk for this very reason.

    The starting and dying sounds like the beginning of an ignition problem. The general consensus is if it continues and the "Check Engine" light does NOT come on, it is most likely related to the ignition switch. If the light does come on, get it scanned. You may also see the "security" light stay on as well. That is related to the ignition switch as well.

    You are simply experiencing some of the many "characteristics" of these vehicles. I'm sure there will be more to follow.
  • pcxpcx Posts: 2
    <<If the transmission not engaging is a regular occurrence
    This weekend was the first time. And it is sitting in the mechanics lot because it won't engage period. We have never had a problem with the transmission until this happened. I always assumed you would experience some type of sign before a complete failure.

    <<you need to have a shop look it over.
    Sending it to a transmission place tomorrow for estimate.

    <<At the very least replace the transmission fluid to see if this improves or worsens the situation.
    I'll be sure to mention it as a first step. I don't have time until next weekend to work on it.

    I forgot to mention that after changing the transmission fluid, it always started looking dirty after 3,000K miles. Might have been trying to tell me something, but I just wrote it off as curious. 60,000K miles later I know see maybe there was something to it.

  • I need some one to tell me how I can replace the passenger side engine mount/s on my 02 Intrigue. A mechanic gave me a bill for almost $400 today to replace one mount on the passenger side (I believe the rear one). The engine shakes and makes rattling or popping sound when it is in Drive. Heck, the problem may be a loose mount bolt for all I know and may just need tightened. Either way, I want to save my money and do the work myself. Please help!
  • You have to first jack under the engine with wooden block and loose bolt so engine will be stayed on wooden block. It's fairly easy. I had loosen engine mount when I was changing water pump in my in-laws Olds 98. Good Luck.
  • I have a 2001 intrigue and have repaired or replaced a couple of the items already. turn signals bulb holders, air pump, trans mount, fuel pump, and now the darn turn signals when activated every once in awhile act up and start screeching!!!! driving me bonkers? has anyone else had same problem? could this be the turn signal switch? even does this when hazzards are activated. really weird, and still fixing my trigue,
    let me know anyone out there!!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I've never heard of this problem with the Intrigue. I would start with replacing the turn signal.
  • I had an issue with wire chafing on the front signals. The wires from the headlamp to the signal had all the insulation fall off, and they shorted out. It made the dashlights get very dim as the electrical system was having a seizure. I ended up using some liquid tape (bought at home depot) and brushing it on the wires. It was a mess. In retrospect, taking off the wires and splicing new ones or using cocktail straws as "conduit" would have been a better choice.
  • For the last two day's me and my father have been struggling to replace the motor in my 2000 intrigue and nothing seems to be going are way. Right now it seems as though we have everything removed, all the cables, motor mounts, and pipes and just five minutes ago we tried lifting it out of the car and it didn't go anywhere, it took the car with it. So now were both lost and don't have a clue what to do next.

    So my question is does anyone have any big problems getting this engine out (there's not much room to work with) and what could I be missing?

    Another thing is when we looked at the other engine that were putting in, we noticed an extra bolt hole way down on the right, but for some reason it doesn't have any threads and we can't seem to see it or find it anywhere in the car, so could there be a bolt in that and could that be what's keeping the engine from coming out?

    Anyone else with a similar experience?
  • I own a 2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL with about 180,000 miles. We really like this car and have had it for almost 4 years. However, there has always seemed to be a shimmy or a shake in the front end. We've had it aligned at least 3 times, new tires, tie rod ends and had the dealership and our tire guy look it over more than once--still no answers. It feels like a really bad tire when you accelerate with the worst being when you drive between 25-40 miles per hour. You can feel a vibration in the steering wheel too. When you slow down it almost acts like the rotors are bad, but we've replaced those also, more than once. Anybody have any ideas or experienced these problems?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Have them look at the wheel hub bearings. Or a bad sway bar.
  • Have you had the the motor and tranny mounts inspected?
  • alright so i own a 00 intrigue with 140k miles on it. ive put 20k of that on the vechical.

    recently ive been having trouble with the battery holding a charge over night.

    i originally thought it was leading from an aftermarket alarm system that was installed at circuitcity about 10 months ago.

    hears a time line:

    2 weeks back i was visting my gf in pittsburgh. car sat from friday to sunday with alarm armed. it was completely dead sunday. -also very cold that weekend

    monday night it was i didn't arm it but it was dead tuesday.
    -again pretty cold outside

    took it to walmart. they said it was either the battery going bad or something draining the battery. so we put a new battery in.

    ok with the new battery i tested it over night again with the alarm on and again it was dead.

    took the car to circuity city and the alarm brain was replaced. - i dont think its the alarm installation at this point.

    also worth mentioning is a stereo system i have installed. if you need more details on that i can provide them. but i run about a total of 700rms. (included sub amp and front stage amp). this has been installed for about a year so there could be some alternator failure going on...?

    this week after have the alarm brain replaced i tried it over night again.

    sunday night i had the alarm armed and i had barely enough juice to get it started.

    monday night i didnt arm it but again i had barely enough to get it started.

    last night i armed it again but i went back over my stereo install and tightned everything up. ( i doubt it's the stereo but i have to rule it out). again it was about to dead to start in the morning.

    tonight im trying with alarmed arm but the fuse for the power wire that goes to amps removed so the electronics will not see any power.

    if its dead then its not the stereo.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Cold weather should not affect a new battery. So either the battery is not charging properly while you are driving or something is drawing down the battery when the car is off.

    First do not go to Walmart to try to resolve an electrical problem. Oil change, new battery, tires, sure but not problems with the car.

    What was the result of pulling the plug on the radio overnight?

    If the battery is still dead in the morning, have your charging system checked by a mechanic. It could be a bad alternator. Also check the battery cables.
  • I just had a similar situation with my 02 Intrigue, 132k miles. Had to jump it earlier this week in the morning. Car ran fine all day till my drive home from work when the battery light started flashing on and off. Took it straight to my mechanic and told me it needed a new battery and alternator was fine. Two days later, again car wouldn't start. Took it back to the mechanic. After a half a day of searching, the problem was found to be the cable that runs from the battery to the alternator was corroded and shorting out. I pick up the car today so I don't know for sure if it fixed the problem but this might be something to check.
  • interesting. ill have to check it out. i've been trying all sorts of things to trouble shoot the problem before taking it to the mechanic.
  • tboom13 have u had any results?

    im still trying to figure mine out. seems all things are point to the alt or wires...
  • im going to clean the wiring and reground the battery later this week. its hard to get to the alt on the 00 intrigue but i think if i take the batttery out, i can get in there. any advice with that???
  • I picked up my Intrigue Friday afternoon and have been driving it around since. No problems. It was 9 degrees outside this morning when I started it up and it turned over with no problem. My mechanic told me it was the end of the cable that connects to the alternator. It was an $8 cable and a couple of hours of labor to replace it.
  • me and my dad are going to see if we can find the problem are selves to avoid labor cost. ive pretty much isolated that its the wiring or the alt. im trying to jump my car right now but it so dead idk if ill get it started with this little battery charger's 80amp thingy...
  • wow that was funnnn. good thing i check it this morning. i got a college final at 1. took me 30min to get it goin. had to charge the battery then use the 80 amp jump. im going to let it run for alittle then take it around the block.
  • alright i got smart last night and desided to try something. i charged the battery up and then i let the car sit all night with alarm armed and system hooked up. this morning the battery was dead. voltage read with the chargers was below 9. i charged it again tonight and ill check in a few hours to see if its draining. i can run the test all night because i have finalls in the morning and i need the car to be able to start when i get up.
  • The AC compressor does not cycle on defrost causing the windows to fog/frost up really bad. A local independant diagnosed it as a bad climate control. AC pressures are good and when the relay is jumped the compressor runs. Pricing a new control through GM is over $1100!!!! Is there another avenue for a new control, or a reputable used parts source? Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    For new, check or

    For a used climate control, check E-Bay. A bunch of parts stores sell used Intrigue parts on E-Bay with a warranty. I've bought 3 things for my Intrigue off E-Bay and have not had a problem.
  • If you keep letting the battery discharge that much you will kill it.

    If itis cold enough a discharged battery will freeze and it will kill it faster.

    Have you verified that you trunk and or glove box lights are going out?

    You will only solve this problem by a logical approach. Recharging the batt and hoping that it will mysteriously start working is a waste of time and possibly a battery.

    You need to hook an ammeter in series with one battery lead and measure te current drawn. It should start around an amp and settled down to a 100 milliamps after the cpu cycles after rehook up.

    If the current stays higher than 1/4 amp then you need to start pulling fuses one at a time until the current drops down and there ya go.
  • sorry i didnt discribe what i was trying to do very well. i think we might have some leads to possible corrosion on the wiring.

    even with the charger on it all night the battery wasn't holding a charge. i think the battery is fried. plan is to get the free replacement from walmart and go to advance auto. they can do the real testing to see if the alternator is putting out the juice.

    back to the my corrosion thing. reason im leaning towards it is because
    1) battery terminal corrosion could explain low charge on battery
    2) wire corrosion along any point on the charging system could explain low charge on battery
    3) car will run with dead battery so alt is still functioning

    **please correct me if im wrong**

    also it appears that the previous owner may have had a corrosion issue at the battery pos end of the wire. it looks like its been cut back afew inches. reason i suspect this is because my car is suppose to fit a larger/longer battery but the wire wont reach the terminal.

    **this is mostly speculation. please advise me with other idea's and solutions**
  • This is really getting frustrated and expensive. I got a used heater control, didn't help. Went to RockAuto and got a new one. Still no help. Replaced the vacuum solenoid pack under the dash as it was giving eradic vacuum to the vacuum actuators. Nothing. I've heard the compressor cycle once, so we hotwired it to run all the time to see if that would help. Going down the road scraping the side windows is not real safe. It has a hard time keeping the windshield clear and the side windows are a disaster. It seems to switch OK between def, vent and floor. I'm wondering if the actuator could be bad for the cold air door. If it ever warms up enough to work outside that'll be the next thing to look at. Dynamite may come next! :mad:
  • The AC compressor does not cycle on defrost causing the windows to fog/frost up really bad

    You do not need an air compressor to keep windows from frosting up in the winter. Although it does speed up the process. There are thousands of cars that do not have AC. So ignore that for now.

    If'n you have air flow from all vents and you have proper heat control then I would look to the recirculating door vent. This is used for AC mileage/efficiency.

    It has a damper door like the others that block the fresh air intake and simply recirculate the air within the car. Called MAx air on some brands. It conditions the interior air instead of constanly cooling new air, resulting in less load for the AC hence better mileage. Twoo problems, If you have a sicky in the car, then your spreading disease and if its cold outside the problem is that it recircs your breath and moisture and that hitting the windows causes instantcondensation. I believe that if you have recirc selected and select defrost it defaults to fresh air for this purpose.
Sign In or Register to comment.