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Oldsmobile Intrigue Maintenance and Repair



  • wow that was funnnn. good thing i check it this morning. i got a college final at 1. took me 30min to get it goin. had to charge the battery then use the 80 amp jump. im going to let it run for alittle then take it around the block.
  • alright i got smart last night and desided to try something. i charged the battery up and then i let the car sit all night with alarm armed and system hooked up. this morning the battery was dead. voltage read with the chargers was below 9. i charged it again tonight and ill check in a few hours to see if its draining. i can run the test all night because i have finalls in the morning and i need the car to be able to start when i get up.
  • The AC compressor does not cycle on defrost causing the windows to fog/frost up really bad. A local independant diagnosed it as a bad climate control. AC pressures are good and when the relay is jumped the compressor runs. Pricing a new control through GM is over $1100!!!! Is there another avenue for a new control, or a reputable used parts source? Thanks.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    For new, check or

    For a used climate control, check E-Bay. A bunch of parts stores sell used Intrigue parts on E-Bay with a warranty. I've bought 3 things for my Intrigue off E-Bay and have not had a problem.
  • If you keep letting the battery discharge that much you will kill it.

    If itis cold enough a discharged battery will freeze and it will kill it faster.

    Have you verified that you trunk and or glove box lights are going out?

    You will only solve this problem by a logical approach. Recharging the batt and hoping that it will mysteriously start working is a waste of time and possibly a battery.

    You need to hook an ammeter in series with one battery lead and measure te current drawn. It should start around an amp and settled down to a 100 milliamps after the cpu cycles after rehook up.

    If the current stays higher than 1/4 amp then you need to start pulling fuses one at a time until the current drops down and there ya go.
  • sorry i didnt discribe what i was trying to do very well. i think we might have some leads to possible corrosion on the wiring.

    even with the charger on it all night the battery wasn't holding a charge. i think the battery is fried. plan is to get the free replacement from walmart and go to advance auto. they can do the real testing to see if the alternator is putting out the juice.

    back to the my corrosion thing. reason im leaning towards it is because
    1) battery terminal corrosion could explain low charge on battery
    2) wire corrosion along any point on the charging system could explain low charge on battery
    3) car will run with dead battery so alt is still functioning

    **please correct me if im wrong**

    also it appears that the previous owner may have had a corrosion issue at the battery pos end of the wire. it looks like its been cut back afew inches. reason i suspect this is because my car is suppose to fit a larger/longer battery but the wire wont reach the terminal.

    **this is mostly speculation. please advise me with other idea's and solutions**
  • This is really getting frustrated and expensive. I got a used heater control, didn't help. Went to RockAuto and got a new one. Still no help. Replaced the vacuum solenoid pack under the dash as it was giving eradic vacuum to the vacuum actuators. Nothing. I've heard the compressor cycle once, so we hotwired it to run all the time to see if that would help. Going down the road scraping the side windows is not real safe. It has a hard time keeping the windshield clear and the side windows are a disaster. It seems to switch OK between def, vent and floor. I'm wondering if the actuator could be bad for the cold air door. If it ever warms up enough to work outside that'll be the next thing to look at. Dynamite may come next! :mad:
  • The AC compressor does not cycle on defrost causing the windows to fog/frost up really bad

    You do not need an air compressor to keep windows from frosting up in the winter. Although it does speed up the process. There are thousands of cars that do not have AC. So ignore that for now.

    If'n you have air flow from all vents and you have proper heat control then I would look to the recirculating door vent. This is used for AC mileage/efficiency.

    It has a damper door like the others that block the fresh air intake and simply recirculate the air within the car. Called MAx air on some brands. It conditions the interior air instead of constanly cooling new air, resulting in less load for the AC hence better mileage. Twoo problems, If you have a sicky in the car, then your spreading disease and if its cold outside the problem is that it recircs your breath and moisture and that hitting the windows causes instantcondensation. I believe that if you have recirc selected and select defrost it defaults to fresh air for this purpose.
  • when you apply medium brake pressure the car moves up and down. also the rotors are really hot after you drive it for a while. it's not the rotors or the anti lock brakes.
  • when you apply medium brake pressure the car shimmies. also the rotors are really hot after you drive it for a while. i don't think it's the rotors or the anti lock brakes.
  • oldwinooldwino Posts: 20
    Most likely it is the rotors. They will get very hot, even from normal use, but they shouldn't be glowing red or smoking. Excessive heat will warp the rotors. The front rotors and brake pads are easy to change if you're a little mechanically inclined.
  • I have a 2000 Intrigue GL. The factory radio (cassette and cd player built int) is giving me an issue. I am not sure if the radio is bad or it just came this way. Once I turn the car on and I proceed to listen to the radio, only the display and cd insert indicators light up. Why are none of the other buttons lighting up??? Is it time to replace the radio or did the car just come this way?? Also, I have factory built in steering wheel radio controls and those work fine also. Any advice would be great. Thanks !!!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Does the radio, cassette and CD work?

    Check to make sure the dimmer switch is not in the off position. I know it sounds obvious but.....
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    You may want to get the front suspension checked (wheel bearings, tie rods, sway bar, etc.). It could be the rotors as well.
  • I have 2 broken motor mounts the right front and the right rear ones, and here lately we are having problems with the check engine light coming on and the transmission acting like it is not wantin to shift from 2nd to 3rd, can the motor mounts be causeing this?
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