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Toyota Sequoia Rear Hatch Door Problems

peterson70peterson70 Posts: 5
edited March 2017 in Toyota
I am having a problem with the rear hatch on my Sequoia. Opening it is becoming harder and I must push in on the door as I try to activate the latch. Am I bending the cable holder on the inside of the door??? Anyone else experiencing this or have a remedy?


  • 03sequoia03sequoia Posts: 2
    I have a 03 Sequoia having the same problem. I can hear it locking
    & unlocking but most of the time it will not open. Dont know how to fix it either.
  • ichiro51ichiro51 Posts: 4
    I have a 2004 limited with a similar problem. It started with the back window not working. The power lock failed to open. Toyota found that problem as an electrical short in the rear area. It cost me $250.00 to fix. The short was also the reason for the window not working. Toyota told me I had a bad motor and wanted to charge me $700.00 to replace.
  • 03sequoia03sequoia Posts: 2
    do you think u could have fixed it yourself are not.
  • ichiro51ichiro51 Posts: 4
    Not an electrical short! There is much trouble shooting that would be needed.

    You may have no choice but to bring it to a Toyota dealer.

    Be prepared to pay $$$ for them to look at it. Good luck!
  • My Sequoia hatch handle broke with moderate use. I had it repaired at the dealership for $270.00. I asked to have some compensation and contacted corporate office to ask if there was a recall on this. At this point I have not been compensated, but I am going to pursue it. My complaint is on file. I think it is a manufacturers defect and if a number of other sequoia owners have the same problem, maybe we can be compensated and Toyota will design it better next go around.
    Corporate Toyota phone number is 800-331-4331
  • nick621nick621 Posts: 1
    I also have a 2004 limited with the same problems. The rear window stop working all together about a year ago. On 08/12/2008 I shut the rear door and the latch broke. I called the Toyota dealership and of course this part is not under warranty. I will definitely call Toyota's 1-800 # to make a complaint. I believe the latch is a defect, this vehicle is hardly used.
  • Since the itital handle I broke on my hatch, I just had the latching mechanism on the bottom of the hatch door seize up and would not latch. I pulled apart the hatch door and removed the latching mechanism, It was all rusted and would not move. I drilled out the rivets and whick hold the latch together and from all the salt used up here in Michingan the internals of the latch rusted not allowing the latch to actuate. I have cleaned up all internal parts to the latch and reinstalled. Problem is when I shut the hatch the first time it will not open back up................ I guess what I'm thinking is that the rust problem in the latch was the itial problem when caused me to use more force on by handle to open the hatch, rusulting in a broken handle. Oh, any ideas on getting my hatch opern???
  • I have 2002 sequoia and my lift door does not open now. I took off all the panels on the inside and I see the cable is fine but somehow the electronic lock is locked. I cannot get the electronic part to unlock so I can open the lift gate.

    How do you UNlock when your cable is fine but door does not UN lock when I press the remote botton? How do you remove the black piece inside the hatch door that locks the door to the main body?
  • Peterson70, how do you remove the Latching Mechanism when the hatch door is closed and I cannot open it? I think my Lock Actuator is broken so I have to open the hatch door first and then replace the part inside the hatch door.

    I already took off all the panels inside the hatch door so I can access the cable and everything.
  • I have a 2002 Sequoia with 125000 miles and ran into this problem several times while under warranty. It is definitely a defect. However, the last time I took it in to get fixed, the dealer tried to blame the window tracking system. It was all rusted out and corroded. Told me they could fix it for $700! I am now in the process of having the back latch replaced along with the entire window tracking system by my local mechanic...NOT THE TOYOTA DEALER!
  • I have a 2004 with the rear hatch not opening. The window works. I don't see where the inside panel comes off. Any help? Thanks!
  • What you'll need to do is put the rear window all the way down and pry the panel off from the top(bottom of window). Get your fingers underthe trim and pry back gently. If you take care you will only bend metal clips holding the trim in place. After doing this you will be able to remove entire panel, remove inner panel than actuate the latch mechanism by hand.
  • Thank you! I have a tail light out so I need to change the bulb and can't do that until I open the hatch. Thanks, again.
  • cazelcazel Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2007 sequoia and the rear hatch handle just broke. I will call Toyota to find out the recall status.
  • I have a 2004 Toyota Sequoia, the rear window stopped working about a year ago, the back latch just stopped working this week and the door will not stay closed. I called Toyota requesting help as this seems like a safety issue; no recall. The Oxygen Sensor has also gone bad. I bought the Toyota based on reliability and reputation. Lol! Does anyone know where I can buy the latch and the Oxygen Sensor outside of the dealership? :sick:
  • My rear door hatch just broke for the 3rd time (had it replaced in June 2009--lasted for 4 months). Found out by calling Toyota at 800-331-4331 that the cheap piece of inferior plastic (sold for around $70) was warranted for 12 months. At least I'll get the part for free this time. Please everyone call and file your complaints maybe we can get it recalled.
  • :mad: When I went to pick up the replacement handle under warranty, my husband ran into the driver from Toyota who was delivering the handle to my mechanic. During a short conversation, the driver told my husband that he "delivered that particular part all the time". And this is not a large metro area. Tell me this isn't a recall issue--but why would they recall when they are making megabucks on the part replacement--the only way to open the back door. SPEAK LOUD. Toyota told me they had no intention of doing anything to help but recorded my complaint, assigned a Case No. to the problem and told me if there was a recall they would contact me.
  • I have a 2002 also and have the same problem not once but three times already, I have complanit to toyota and they would do nothing all the while the dealers are laughing al the way to the bank (the first time it was repair under warranty the next time about two years later it cost me 500.00 this time I'm going to try to fix it my self )
    but we need to get together and let toyota know this should be a safety issue and a recall should happen I talk to the FEDERAL TRADE COMMISSION and unless they get a flood of complaints to push toyota hand nothing will be done. SO LETS GET TOGETHER AND LET TOYOTA KNOW WE ARE FEED UP
  • labrenlabren Posts: 1
    I too have replaced the door handle on 2001. They are approx. $70.00 at dealer. Remove rear inside panel and take cable off of handle. Then you must remove your license plate and remove rear outside panel to get handle off. The little clip breaks. I don't understand why this isn't made off medal instead of plastic.
  • I have a 2001 and I am replacing mine for a 2nd time tomorrow. Problem is my window doesn't work at the time so I have to tear into it with the door down and window up( not much room to move around). It's a pain but doing it yourself is far less painful than a $500 replacement bill. I got a replacement latch for under $25 on line and it appears to be as well made as the one I bought from the dealer last time. Also by tearing into it myself maybe I can figure out the problem with the window and save even more cash.
  • i ended up pulling out that broken black plastic mechanism that was attached to the lift latch with a pair of pliers , then i unlocked doors to vehicle the i inserted a phillips head srew drinder into hole where i removed the plastic piece o felt around until it seemed like i was on top of something then i pulled crew driver handle upwards towards me doing this made the head of the screw driver to descend dodownward deepressing onto a button or something inside that allw the door to open , i repeated 5- 6 times for practice i even had my 16 yr old son do it repeatedly n now we have access to rear compartment , although u have to have a screw driver readily available it works thats all what matters for now until i gather funds to repair this problem, my rear window and wiper stopped working on my truck 4 yrs ago , the sequoia is a nice driving vehicle but its plagued with lil thing s that can inconvenience the hell out of you also my driver side window wont roll down all the way i believe its off the track again , this is the 2nd time it happened , i secured it the first time with epoxy 2 part adhesive , but someone told me i should use a black epoxy adhesive because its stronger, my door handle on driver side on indside broke off , toyota repaired it free of charge and this was in 2004 , by the way i have an 02 sequoia and now my passenger side inside pull door opener is broken , currently the passenger would have to roll window down to open door from outside handle , also my button to check the temp and gaseline mileage thats located above near eyeglass holder broke so i called toyota service dept they wanted $700 to replave the whole electronic mechanism , i ended up taking it apart i got to the housing where the broke button was , ended up going to lowes and buying an assorted small spring bag, i looked for the right sixe to fit into button housing , i inserted spring into housing in order that the spring will push downwards on the button and i crewed everything back together and it worked fine since i save myself $696.47 .
  • showemrightshowemright Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    im thinking about sketching that broken plastic piece thats attached to the metal pullup handle of back door onto some old scrap metal sheets i have lying around perhaps this old washing machine i have downstairs in basement , i will cut out what i sketched using some cutters they use in auto body repair, repeat the cut 2-3 times to gain thickness as the plastic , ill use epoxy 2 part adhesive to adhere together what i just cut out , making sure to leave about an 3/4 of an inch extra metal at the end where the plastic was attached to the metal pullup handle i will bend the metal into a L shape in order that i can screw the cut out piece onto the pullup handle using self threading screws, this would make this door opener mechanism stronger , because metal is stronger than plastic.
  • blown7blown7 Posts: 8
    When I bought this vehicle the rear door would open & close by pressing, either the button on the dash or the button on the key fob.
    Now when I press any rear door button the system beeps twice and then...nothing.

    Any insights?


  • ldbjrldbjr Posts: 2
    I went to open my rear hatch and heard a click now the handle just moves back and forth without engaging the mechanism to open the door. I noticed that the driver side of the hatch seemed to be miss aligned before this happened and opened the hatch and closed it after ensuring nothing was impeding the hatch on closure. After I tried to open it again (without much force on the handle at all) it clicked. Does anyone have any idea how to open the hatch? The dealer said to bring it in but being unemployed for 9 months I hesitate to bend over for this BS defect. Any info/advice. appreciated [email protected] is my email. I can not believe there isn't an alternate override latch inside incase you were trapped you know?
  • how did the repair go?
    i have 2002 SR5 on which the rear latch and window do not work. wondering where you got the part?
    how you got to the rear latch. i don't see any access points??
    i would appreciate any insights, thanks
  • maspietamaspieta Posts: 2
    Update on the Sequoia rear latch. After calling Toyota to see if there was a recall on the latch and receiving a negative response; I bought the part thinking I would fix it on my own upon reading how expensive it was to replace. I was wrong. I was able to have the part replaced by the local dealer for $100 plus the part which was around $100. I checked on having the window replaced and it will be $450...this will have to happen at a later date. I cannot help but think that some form of moisture is what is causing the issues with the latch and the window. I need support, but seriously doubt I will get that from the dealer. I believe there is a fault in the design. Can we please speak to the engineer? :-]
  • Well my 2003 Sequoia's rear latch broke and my power rear window works intermittently. I figured I would warn folks that it was not the easiest repair to replace this latch, but I guess since I purchased the latch on for $23 including shipping I did save myself at least $175 to $375 depending on hearing that the dealer wants between $200 and $500 for the repair. Hope you have skinny arms and don't mind holding your arms over your head for most of the repair. Here is how I did the repair:

    First, you have to climb in the back of your Sequoia since you can't open the hatch. Take a flashlight, a 10 mm socket and some patients back there with you. a box fan sitting in the backseat blowing some air on you helps too if Sequoia is in a hot location. There is a pulldown strap that has to be removed first. Slide the plastic cover "up" to reveal the 10mm/phillips bolt that needs to be removed to get the inside plastic cover off. Then you will have to take ALL the plastic molding off to get this cover off. Start with the top molding in the center ABOVE the window. It pops off and comes off first. Then take the molding on the left and right sides of the window. It pops off too. Now you can remove the large plastic panel covering the lower half of the hatch. Squeeze your fingers into the window area and pull "UP" on the large getting the top section of the cover over the metal frame at the bottom of the window. Once over this pull "OUT" on the cover since the lower sections snap on.

    Take a deep breath because there is more covers to take off. Now you will need to take the 10mm socket and remove 8 bolts holding a metal cover over the power window mechanism. This cover has to have to cables unplugged if you want to get it out of your way. I recommend this after I did not do this at first and having this cover hanging by the cables and getting in your way just adds to the frustration if you take a few minutes and unplug it.

    now with this metal cover removed get your flashlight and look in from the drivers side of the power window mechanism. You should see a cable going from the latch (bottom center of hatch) to behind the license plate (where your broken latch is that you have to manually open). There is a clear plastic cover over the latch and cable. Pull this off. Then feel where the cable ends. Assuming the cable is still in the metal latch mechanism, push UP and to the PASSENGER Side of the car with this end of the latch extending the cable and hopefully popping open the hatch.

    If you have made it this far, go in and take a break, relax and regain your calmness. Now, to remove the broken latch you have to first remove your license plate and the screws holding the plate. Then, from the inside of the hatch there is one 10mm bolt holding the key lock mechanism on. Take this bolt off and let the lock down into the hatch. Now for the toughest two nuts to take off. Inside the hatch there are two bolts that are part of the latch that you must remove 10mm nuts from. You can almost see the Driver Side bolt and I took these out with a smaller 1/4" 10mm socket wrench. The nut on the passenger side it really hard to reach. Your forearms get torn up the the large gears for the power rear window, but once you get these two 10mm nuts off the latch from the inside you are almost there. Now with the key lock removed and these two nuts, on the inside of the hatch at the 4 corners of your outer license plate "trim" you will see snap in mounts. I squeezed these from the backside so that the license plate trim comes out. Unless you want to disconnect the power to the license plate lamps, just flip the frame over to remove the broken latch from this frame. There are two phillips head screws holding the latch to the frame. Once you get the old latch off, screw the new latch on. NOTE: Take care to screw the latch on evenly and all the way in or you may have to take it apart again to get the license plate frame to sit flush and snap back in.

    With the new latch installed, replace the license plate frame snapping it in from the outside and then put the 2 10mm bolts on either side of the latch from the inside as well as reinstall the key lock. Don't forget to connect the cable to the new latch. I removed the cable from a tydown block to give me more slack in the cable. Using the flashlight, take the end of the cable and thread the "ball" on the end through the slot on the new latch and press the outer shielding of the cable back as it was original. Replace the clear cover over the latch mechanism. At this point, test your new latch and make sure your license plate frame is snapped back in flush.

    If so, then reinstall the metal cover with the 8 10mm screws. Plug back in the wire harness (though I am still having trouble with my rear power window). Then put the plastic cover and trim back on in reverse order... large plastic cover, left and right window trim and top trim. Then put the pull down strap back on and replace the plastic cover on the strap by sliding it down.

    Hope this helps. I still wish there was a way to get all the power window gear out of the way and give you more access to do this job.
  • Thank you so so much for the information...the rear hatch lever on my 2003 sequoia just broke this evening :(
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