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Comments
Troy
Oil volume and a record of oil changes is also important.
If the oil pressure has been low for a while there will be engine damage.
Maybe run away if you are nervous.
I would take any Jeep to a qualified mechanic and have it checked out before laying my money down.
Find a guy who will look for a reason not too buy the Jeep and keep looking 'til you find one that you feel good about.
If the initial guess on fixing something is 650 plan on 1300 and don't be surprised if it hits 1950 before you are done.
There are a lot of things other than oil pressure to look at.
Engine compression check. Clutch and pressure plate. Brakes and drive train. If it has a soft top how much life is left.
This vintage Jeep is notorious for electrical bugs too.
Don't jump the gun. There are a million of these Jeeps out there. Many if really good shape. One that has been thrashed can be a real money pit.
Spend more time looking at the underside (dirty parts)of one of these old Jeeps.
That is where you will see the real story of the past life of these tuff little dudes.
Good luck.
Any other thoughts or suggestions?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
oh-well
...just a guess...
The connectors on the back of the gauge panel (instrument cluster)on all the TJ's tend to rattle loose over time.
You can pull the cluster and relocate the connector from the back side of the bracket to the front. This takes the looseness out of the connection. Apply dialectic grease to the connection. Put it back together. This might work. Couldn't hurt.
Next guess would be to check the ground cable from the gauges/controls to the steel dash structure. I've seen these cables attached in different locations.
If your service guy replaced the hoses make sure that they are still routed correctly. The easiest way to do this is a side-by-side check. Just find another Jeep w/the same engine and compare them. Look for a hose that is routed wrong or that is too long. The hoses should run flat, uphill or downhill. If they hump up then you might get an air lock. Pretty rare.
Another thing to check would be to make sure all the hoses are firm, no soft spots. This can cause the hose to collapse or if the hose lining is loose it can restrict flow.
If you find one bad hose replace them all.
I still think the loose connector on the gauge panel is the most likely.
Loose connections can sometimes be fixed by a good hard run up and down a bumpy dirt hill. Rip off the top. Turn off the A/C. Go raise a little...dust. If nothing else you and JEEP will be having too much fun to worry about gauge readings and ambient temperatures.
JFFJ (JEEP forever forever JEEP)
I've already had that problem- and corrected it. I will check the various ground cables, but none of the other gauges seem to be affected. The hoses weren't changed. Still haven't had a chance to check the coolant level in the radiator itself.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks
Fred
It's a short heavy vehicle which necessitates a heavy front brake bias, so your situation is not unexpected.
You can't easily retrofit ABS so you need to increase the available traction, and possibly learn the cadence braking technique (or maybe both). Traction can be increased by using a more aggressive tire, maybe with studs or chains.
Maybe one of our hosts could move this to an appropriate forum?
The main Wrangler discussion may be a better spot, but since the post title has "problem" in it, hopefully people will find it ok in here.
If disc, check the pads/rotors and replace as needed. You MAY want to consider checking or changing the proportioning valve as well.
If you have a manual, I'd HIGHLY recommend taking advantage of engine compression braking.
We lived in soCal with the TJ and a Grand Cherokee. We got over 65k on the Grand and we lived at 4200' elevation and had to drive twisting, mountain roads EVERY day to and from work. Even with the automatic, you can 'shift' the gears and let the engine do some of the work. On snow/ice, make sure you've downshifted BEFORE you are on it.
-Paul
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
A major issue that has come up is when I'm braking, the entire Jeep shakes. The amount of shaking varies by the quickness of the braking or how fast I'm going.. but it shakes most of the time, sometimes quite severely. There's no issue w/acceleration and it drives fine at 75+ mph on the highway. Is this an issue with brake pads/rotors? (FYI -I just had a tuneup done about 4k ago at a Jeep dealer and they found nothing wrong with my brakes).
Second issue.. much less severe.. somehow I lost "power" when on the 2nd tick of fan power. The 1st tick and 3rd and 4th work fine, but the fan goes dead on the 2nd. I also notice that when choosing the floor direction, no air is coming out on the drivers' side. Any ideas? :confuse:
Thanks.
and i was wondering one other thing...i am going to change my clutch...if there is fluid on the manual trans cover plate will this be rear engine seal leaking or a front trans seal?
all help appreciated
Cheers Evil
This is often called "death wobble"
As per post 974, check all steering components for looseness
Check tire pressures
Go to "Jeep Wrangler" (the main discussion in this forum) and search under "death wobble" for many posts - recently post 22851 and others nearby
Lifts can aggravate wobble
i personally had a front end alignment & my tires rebalanced (twice) to get rid of my DW.
good luck & cheers
I have power washed around the box and am going to check for the source of the leak. I think it is the seal on the pressure line where it enters the steering box. Looks like it is going to be pretty stupid to get to. ...might be the input shaft seal.
Does it seem that the chrysler/jeeps are more dodge than Jeep?
I want to replace the paddle door handles and I am battling to remove the inside door panels! Is there some hidden voodoo spell I have carelessly overlooked?
1) Do I need to remove the window winder, if so how?
2) How go I safely remove the latch and locking linkage?
Any tips, help or advice will be greatly appreciated, and pics will get you into my hall of fame. Please help guys...
Regards
Novice Jeep Lunatic
-Paul
http://www.stu-offroad.com/body/doorpanel/doorpanel-1.htm
-Paul
It misses on only the No. 5 cylinder.
They've replaced the coil assembly, the computer, they've checked compression ... and they've even put on a new head — even though there was nothing wrong with the old one ... they have tried everything.
They put new head on it and put it all together today — and No. 5 still misses. Runs like a log truck!
Anyone experience anything like this? I really feel the dealer is doing everything they can and are as frustrated as I am — except for the fact they aren't making the payments with it sitting in the shop!
Thanks.
(i) a spark (at the right time),
(ii) compression,
(iii) fuel (correct mix at the right time).
Any mention of item (iii) seems to be missing from the dealer's attempts to solve a simple problem.
Have you check the plugs and wires? May be worth putting on some Champion spark plugs and making sure the distributor cap is all good as well. Easy and relatively inexpensive to do.
-Paul
Second, you have a low voltage issue, most likely a bad battery, though it could be poor connections. Once you get that sorted, have the alternator checked too.
Exactly what type of holes are appearing? I've seen a new muffler blown apart at the seams after a backfire, but there's no way it could be repaired with sealer.
Remove 3 retaining bolts from each seat support.You have 2
seat supports, one on left side and one on right side.
Before you remove seat supports from the floor mark them down with letter "L" and "R". Next step is very important.
Seat support with letter "L" place backwards to RIGHT SIDE
put back 3 retaining bolts and tighten them up.
Seat support with letter "R" place backwards to LEFT SIDE,
put back 3 retaining bolts and tighten them up.
Put rear seat back on seat supports and you will be able to
fold seat upright. Seat need to be secured in that position.
The acceptable voltage range for most automobile electrical systems with the engine running is 13.7v - 14.4v. Even a new battery from the store won't be fully charged, so you can expect that figures will be at the lower of the range to start with. I take it that you are measuring voltage with a multimeter at the battery with the engine running?
However, if things are still bad then the final suspect item is the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM regulates the voltage output from the alternator, and controls the idle speed (as well as a hundred and one other things). The PCM responds to a low battery voltage with the symptoms that you mentioned, i.e. low idle/ stumbling/ stalling at low rpm, no idle up on a/c engagement.
The PCM is dependant, though not totally, on the various sensor inputs to make its decisions. If it lacks an input it has a fallback 'safe' mode for that system.
Before deciding that the PCM is bad it's worth doing some more circuit checking, especially the grounds to the PCM.
Assuming your problem still exists, and the new battery and alternator are good, then the PCM is either receiving bad information (poor connections/grounds), or is itself bad.
Before anything else, check for codes. After that the next most likely suspect (of many) is an O2 (lambda) sensor.
You might also try posting in the 'Up to 1996' version of this topic.
My SE has 33's and I loaded up 4.88 gearing and it does just fine, though it still struggles on the highway at times.
If you DO swap from a 4 to a 6, the transmission would go from the AX-5 to the AX-15, unless you wanted to put in one of the newer NV transmissions. (assuming manual transmission here). The transmissions for the 4 cyl won't handle the power of the 6 cyl w/o breaking. May not happen right away, but it will at some point.
-Paul
They probably need it, it will eliminate them as suspects (or it will fix the problem), and it will give you a baseline for future servicing of the ignition system.
I bought a 1999 Sahara five speed with 36K miles in 2004. It now has over 105K on it. In addition to scheduled maintenance I've fitted front pads/rear shoes, a radiator(all copper, replacing the OEM plastic/aluminum unit), front sway bar links, Bilstein HD shocks, and a Banks Torque tube exhaust manifold. I didn't really need to replace the shocks, I just prefer Bilsteins. The TJs you are looking at have a different exhaust manifold design so replacement should not be required. I change the oil(Mobil 1 5W-30) every 6K, the coolant every two years, and the diffs, transfer case, and manual transmission at 60K intervals(again using synthetics). I fully expect to get another 100K out of it at a minimal expense.
Buy one. You won't regret it.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Don
I'm getting a terrible shaking of the whole jeep when I hit a bump while driving around 45-50. I shake is soo bad a car behind me stoped me afterwards because they thought the front wheel were gonna come off my jeep. The only way to get out of the wobble is to almost stop the vehicle.
I've seen several posts that mention the same problem. Can someone please respond to indicate how to fix this thing... it's pretty scary!
Thanks,
Scott