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I've been going by the trip computer, maybe that's been wrong?
Also, just a couple of weeks ago the GM site with the four levels of LaCrosse showed a different rear suspension linkage on all models from the base model. Now it appears that suspension is only available on the CXS as an option? That is the "four link H". The one I test drove CXL did not have it.
Also the power from the 3.0L was rather disappointing. Early posts in this forum were thoughts that this vehicle was quite similar to the new Malibu. My 09 with 2.4L AT6 is far peppier. So, what gives?
They are planning on putting the 2.4L in it this spring. But, if that comes with EPS, electric power steering, NO THANKS.
Start car, 1 second after hear a "Clunk". Sounds like metal to metal. (Not a hard hit more like a dropped metal wrench on floor.) Front of car, under engine. Only when car has sat in cold for a few hours. Of course didn't happen at dealer's service area. Thinking of leaving it there over night so they can start it in morning. (I'm not a mechanic)--- Does starter has moving parts inside of some kind of relay that moves after engine starts and releases? Anyone had similar problem, or ideas so I can mention to mechanic at dealership?
Thanks
Thanks again, advice is appricated.
:lemon: ?
I'd complain to dealer until they give you an upgrade.
That's not a change. That's delayed availability, similar to the 4 cylinder engine.
Thanks for info
Dealer service claim Noise coming from the "BAFFLE" (Looks like long muffler running under center of car).
Part to be ordered. ----Special order
Will follow-up and post.
Could this be a sign of quality problems to come with the Lacrosse??
Hasn't GM learned yet??
BTW, 6.0 CXL??? I could only wish
I assume it is just a freak occurrence. I have had cars sit out in this and lower temp for at least 2 weeks without a problem.
Any suggestions or advise?
I will start it at least every other day from now on. Yes, I do have another car that I use when it snows or we have bad weather that I drive.
if you merely start the car every other day without driving it or letting it idle for quite a while, you will be doing more harm than good---because you will put a drain on the battery everytime you start it and then if you turn it off in a short period of time, it will not have had time to re-charge.
But I agree with you, something sounds fishy as to why the battery was dead.
Are you sure it was the battery and not a malfunctioning start circuit? One way to check the condition of the battery when it won't start, is use a charger of 10 amps or more with a meter. Watch how many amps it is drawing when it first starts charging. As the battery is replenished, it will eventually start drawing less current and taper to near 0. If this occurs quickly, then the battery is incapable of holding a full charge. Example, assume a battery of 350 cranking amps. If it was fully dead, at 10 amp charge it should take about 35 hours to charge. It may only need to be half drawn down to not start, say 175 amps, That would still take roughly 17.5 hours at 10 amps to fully charge. Assume you have a battery that won't turn vehicle over. If charger indicates it is charged in an hour or less, it might start vehicle now, but it is also a battery that is on its last legs.
Thanks for your replies and information.
I'd check if you have that, and learn how it works since it might be malfunctioning.
It is also likely that in trying to shave pounds from the vehicle, lead being so heavy, they are using a battery that is at minimums for the vehicle or you got a battery that sat during the whole time GM was shut down.
I had a ford that required a special battery, 1300CCA. Unfortunately there was not a great demand and no aftermarket available. The last time I needed one, they had it on shelf. It had been sitting almost a year but would not take a charge. They ordered from next level up. Took almost a week to get and same thing. They ordered through Detroit and got a fresh one from manufacturer. It lasted 74 months.
I don't know why a battery will die if left sitting on shelf. It does not just drain of power, it will not take or hold a charge.
With the number of battery problems I've been hearing about on new vehicles, 09-10, even on the lot, I'll venture a guess that those batteries were stock piled somewhere for a length of time.
While not quite as bad as I feared, the windows seems both small and high relative to where I'd normally look when changing lanes. Perhaps I could get used to it, but I didn't like it.
More concerning though were the rear windshield and side mirrors. The rear windshield's extended angle of descent creates a very narrow vertical opening (the "box" size that you actually see when looking out the rear window). Also, the side view mirrors seemed oddly shaped and oddly angled (seem to be tilted down at the outside by design).
Altogether, I foud the sight lines to be pretty bad on this car. It's the only thing I didn't like, but maybe enough to eliminate it for me. My driving style is fairly aggressive and I don't hesitate to change lanes to whip around traffic, and I'd really worry that I'd miss something and get myself into real trouble.
http://www.mycarstats.com/getstarted/login.asp
http://www.chargingchargers.com/chargers/faq-charging.html
it does warn against leaving "trickle chargers" hooked up for extended periods of time unless they are "smart" chargers, meaning, they stop the trickle when the battery is fully charged. otherwise, with a "dumb" charger, one runs the risk of overcharging, causing the liquid in the battery to dry up. The website also talks about cold weather reducing the charge in the battery; like close to 55% reduction at 20 degrees.
As to cold reducing the charge, that is not technically correct. The cold slows the chemical reaction which produces the current so you don't have the full power at a given slice of time. The battery will still produce the same total power, just slower over a longer period of time and that might not meet the instantaneous demand of the starter.
Batteries were rated at Cranking Amps which was the available power at 32 degrees. I think they are now all standardized to Cold Cranking Amps which is read at 0 degrees.
A trick for warming a battery so it puts out more amps is to put a draw on it for awhile. The chemical reaction creates heat. Slowly pouring hot water over the battery also works, that is if it is so cold it just is not putting out full capacity.
But a new car with new battery? None of that should be necessary.
Someone should check if they are putting more than one battery in vehicle. It might depend which line it rolled off or intended destination. Cars going to cold country definitely need bigger batteries that those headed for southern destinations.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
So...you can't say this ain't your father's Buick
http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/drr/jump.html
Has anyone had the following
While on a call, if another call comes in, and you hear the call-waiting sound, when I press the "phone" button on the steering wheel, it does not pick up the call. Rather, the response is "Ready". I checked in the book, and there is no response to this for call-waiting.
Is there something additonal I need to do? My phone with my carrier has call-waiting.
Thanks