Did you recently rush to buy a new vehicle before tariff-related price hikes? A reporter is looking to speak with shoppers who felt pressure to act quickly due to expected cost increases; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com for more details by 4/24.
my car has gotten broken into (more like just simply opened no forced entry) on two occassions. i went to the dealer on the first occasion and they told me window has to be broken and opened from inside for alarm to sound then did manual tests trying to make the alarm sound with no luck but then tried putting pressure on some sensor under the right side of the hood and was able to make the factory horn alarm sound. they showed me how to make sure its locked by pressing lock on remote and seeing the head and tail lights flash. ive been doing that and making sure i put my remote in my house far away from the street as not to activate the keyless entry feature. obviously does not ensure car is locked as my car has been entered again person cleaning out my change bin and scattering papers and cds on passanger seat on both occassions. im now looking into putting a "real alarm" system on it. has anyone had a similar problem and what did you do and how much do dealer alarms cost? so frustrated!
Most dealers do not sell non-factory alarm systems. Your best bet would be to see local car audio/alarm store. Silly question, when you press the lock button on the remote and see the lights flash, are you sure the doors lock?
I am assuming you are taking about the proximity key aka as the smart key. After locking the car with button on FOB you should visit car with the proximity key well out of range and see if doors are locked it and alarm set with the blinking light on dashboard.
My wife wants SE with proximity key but I always wonder if its is as secure as traditional key with remote.
Once you have established that you are using your FOB key correctly (read the manual, since it has some options on proximity key). You need to escalate the complaint with Hyundai since its a serious problem.
Anyone else think it would be nice if Hyundai would add a sunroof to the GLS Popular Equipment Package? I believe that was on option on the previous model. I don't want or need the 18" wheels on the SE, nor the leather and other goodies of the Limited. But I'd very much like a sunroof on a GLS. Twould be the perfect car (for me).
Yes, I think that would be a good option. I don't recall when Hyundai added the moonroof option to the Gen 4 Sonata, but I know a lot of GLS I4s had that. If I recall, at one time it was the only way to get a power seat on the GLS I4, then Hyundai added a lower-priced package with power seat and a few other options but no moonroof.
Agree 100 percent that both drivers and passenger seats are too low for good views especially with high side panels. Passenger seat is worse - difficult to see as this writer says - wish we'd evaluated car better/longer before buying - we are having buyers remorse bought in April 2011
My husband when driving damaged rt side of vehicle due to not being able to see better out the right side due to both the side height - reduced window view and the lowness of seat - he is 5 11 - I hate the reduced visibility as compared to our prior camry.
Ming2 i have like 22300 miles on my 011 sonata i REALLY believe my tranny has issues twice i went to reverse and i heard a clang sound and when i parked it the gear illumnation went completly blank the d, r, p, etc. It had did this twice with no check engine light coming on and i believe it is slipping as i drive i get no power struggling, scooting to get up to speed. And when i do i have lost power. Now what you would not believe is i rode with a serv mgr and he said it was normal saying the delayed power is the computer switching to find gears and engine breaking how in the world can you get past these guys doing this to us heck i want my auto fixed i hate this i left honda for this dammmmmmmmmmmm!!!! help me man please. ps i see you put the tsb's will i be able to get them to do this for mine even though there is no check engine light coming on but the symptoms are DEFINETLY THERE!!!! :
Today I turned off my 2011 SE without pressing on the break pedal. The motor turned off but I remained in ACC mode. I tried numerous pushings of the start/stop button with no results in turning off the accesories. I noticed an orange car symbol in the center of the dash called the Immobilizer indicator. The transmission dash indicator said P for park. I finaly decided to restart the engine and drive around the block. That seemed to solve the problem. Any ideas on why this happened?
On my SE coupled to a Verizon Fascinate phone via bluetooth, occaisionaly while I'm driving I hear a female voice stating "to change user profile yes or no". If I say yes I'm asked to read and speak text appearing on my display. If I say cancel or press the end call button I return to radio but minutes later she comes on again.. I cannot drive and at the same time create a user profile. Is there a way to do this while sitting on my driveway or is there a way to prevent her from interrupting my radio.
My problem is a little different and it has happened twice. I tried to start the car before first putting my foot on the brake and it won't start, which I understand. I turn it to off, put my foot on the brake and then try again. This time it won't start again and I get the message that my foot is not on the brake, which is not true. No matter how many times I try that sequence it doesn't start. I then leave the car, do something else and then come back and it starts. It is almost like once it gets out-of-sequence it won't let you correct it without getting the FOB out of range and then back again - almost like re-booting. Anyone else had that problem or have a solution? Apparently it's not the brake sensor since it will start eventually.
I think you found the answer. It works like a computer should. Needs a reset when an incorrect command is initiated. It hasn't happened again but I did read the manual and I learned the push button has 4 sequences. Off-ACC-ON- ACC.
Just got a change of oil. Mistake. Somebody scratched my rear bumper so $250 sounds about right. Drove Acura the last 20 years. 10 years each car. Put 100,000 on each car. Changed the oil faithfully every 10-12,000 miles. Never had a problem. My son is now driving the last one and has 130k. I urged him to leave the oil alone for at least 10k. If the Hyundai can't handle it I'll be getting another Acura
We own a 06 acura tsx, bought new 11/06 and a '11 sonata, bought new 7/10. We follow the maintenance minder on the tsx (wait until it shows 15%) We get the oil/filter changed on the sonata at 7,000-7,500 miles. We have 124,000+problem free miles on the tsx and 15,000+on the sonata. We traded our 05 elantra GT with 100,000+problem free miles for the sonata.
I don't follow the logic, the new Hyundai required an oil change and during that visit to the dealer(?) the rear bumper got scratched? So,that event (scratched bumper) somehow prompts you to wonder if the Hyundai "can't handle it" you'll get another Acura???? I believe the Hyundai can "handle" extended oil changes just fine but how the scratched bumper and an oil change mesh is beyond me. The bumper could have been scratched in the parking lot by another customer's car. For that matter your Acura also could have been hit at the Acura store while awaiting one of those extended oil changes.
I can't understand why Hyundai does not offer cooled front seats in the Sonata when Kia offers them in the Optima. Living here in the Deep South, cooled seats would be very much welcomed. Thoughts.
I agree, I wish the front seats were ventilated (there's a few other things that I'd like to see added for future models as well, will save those for a later post)
Oddly enough, ventilated seats ARE an available option in Korea:
Yesterday I received a check from my dealership for $50. There was no memo or letter included with the check to indicate what this was for.
When I called the dealership, they indicated that this was a "rebate check". From what I understand, when we purchased our 2011 Sonata (in Feb 2010) a manufacturer's rebate was not properly included with our purchase price (?)
Any one else have this experience? The receptionist that I spoke to had been getting several calls regarding this issue but really didn't have a lot of information to share with me.
Yes, I drive the shiftronic as often as I can. I really enjoy it. I get better gas milage in Shiftronic than when driving in DRIVE because I tend to press harder and accellerate faster in DRIVE, especially when the red light turns GREEN!
I have the opposite issue. I have the 18"" tires on my 2012 SE and would prefer the 17 " tires. I even went so far as to let the service manager know that I would swap out tires/wheels with anyone who wants the 18" tires instead of the 17" tires. If so inclined and are in the atlanta area, feel free to shoot me an email. rick2456 at aol.com.
I have one of the few Limited Turbos that came through with 17' wheels. I am interested in swapping for 18' wheels. My wheels and tires have less than 5,000 miles and are blemish free. Anybody in Pa or New Jersey interested in swapping? I will gladly pay the dealer service department cost for the exchange.
I have 2 scratched 18" wheels - hit a curb - ouch. I got new ones, if you want to make an offer on the scratched ones and get them fixed maybe we could work something out? Dennis in NJ
i am having the EXACT same issues that you are having with starting your car with foot on the brake and car not starting. if you pump the brakes REALLY hard then it will usually get past it... now i am also starting to see traction control light come on randomly.
This is a well-known problem with a sensor that needs to be replaced. I've had mine done twice already.
You can always start the car by holding down the Start button without putting your foot on the brake pedal. It will take about 15-30 seconds, but eventually, it will start.
When the switch fails, you can always start the car by holding down the Start button without putting your foot on the brake pedal. It will take about 15-30 seconds, but eventually, it will start.
In my case the initial problem was that I pushed the button before hitting the brakes and the whole process got "out of sequence". It would not start no matter how hard I hit the brakes, but did eventually start after I got the FOB out of range and started the sequence all over again - this time correctly. I have not had any problems since and no problem with traction control light. Make sure you haven't cancelled "traction control" accidentally by hitting button on the dash.
I also bought a sonata 2011 june 27th 2011went in the car wash the first day and it leaked,I have had the sunroof back 3 times still leaks,They have had my car now for 3.5 weeks and nothing resolved other then they have it leaking worse.I was in a rain storm and the car was very wet inside roof liner ,and the sunroof part that closes to look like the headliner wet very wet.They have replaced the glass and eal and still leaks,they are replacing the track but has been 3.5 weeks and still no car back.Very un happy with the car now.I hate when something is wrong with a brand new car.i owned it for 1 month and only driven it 5 days the rest of the time in at hyundai supposly getting fixed.lolol Big joke.Warranty but what happens after it is fixed and rust comes in what will they do then nothing probaly.Iam not a happy camper with this vechile,Have always been happy with the other 2 hyundai tucsonno problems.Any body buying a car with sunroof check it out in a car wash before you buy it.
2011 Sonata Limited, 24,625 miles. In the manual it says to change every 7500 miles. I drive on the highway 95% of the time and living in South Florida. I change my oil every 6,000 miles and rotate the tires.
I don't know if this will make you feel better or worse. While you left Honda they were leaving you (and all their customers.) I have an Accord that is less than 3 yrs old. I babied the engine when new and religiously changed the oil. After only 36000 miles it was burning almost a quart of oil between oil changes. It progressively worsened to a quart and a half between oil changes. I have spoken with the Honda dealer where I purchased it and the other major dealer in town, and Honda Customer Service. All three told me that if the engine is burning less than 1 quart of oil per thousand miles it is "within tolerance" and no warranty work will be performed. In other words if a Honda is burning almost 5 quarts of oil between changes, Honda still won't do anything about it under warranty. I am on the Hyundai board because I am leaving Honda/Acura forever.
I just had my brake pedal swtich replaced also after infrequent no starts. If you do not press ont he brake pedal, there is a message that keeps appearing on the screen telling you to do so and holding the button for the fifteen seconds did not work either.Anyway, dealer tells me it is going to probably be a recall.
Sounds fine to me. I intend to follow the book, and go 7,500 miles between changes. No need to waste time and money, and resources changing oil that is fine. I do, ocassionally check my oil. Look at it, if it gets black and dirty looking, change it, regardless of miles.
Am I the only one experiencing this? When I stop to shut down and I hit the pushbutton my acessories stay on. I have to restart the car, move the shifter between R and P and sometimes I can get it to work correctly. I have an appt with the deale next week. Any help before i go would be appreciated.
Sonata still not fixed from leaking sunroof,so they gave me a new one,Can home with it checked it with putting water with a hose on top of the sunroof,there was water coming in.There should not be water coming inside at all.As far as i can see a poor way of buiding theses,Sunroofs should not leak or have water coming inside the car definely something wrong.Iam thinking this winter there will be mold and condasion in the car.Especially when we get to teady raiy season.And all this money we spend on our cars and have to put up with manufactures slip ups or not built good.Cars arent bulit like before.Cheap crap,But big prices...
Is there a set protocol for turning off with pushbutto ignition. Do you have to put your foot on the brake when pushing the button to prevent from going into acessory mode?
leaks more weight - where you want it least one more thing to break considerably less headroom ~$1,000 that could be better spent elsewhere
I do like leather seats and some other high end features, but it is getting harder to find them on cars without the ubiquitous sunroof - impossible on a Honda and it looks like Hyundai is going that way too.
Hi all, When starting engine in the morning the RPS displays about 1800 RPM for about 15-30 sec. After that it drops back to below 1000 RPM. However, when putting in drive (after RPM is back to Normal) I still feel the car a bit jittery. For the first few minutes of driving (I tested it even in cruise control at about 45MPH) I feel an occasional sputtering that goes away after 10-15 minutes. I live in South FL so it is not the cold weather :-)... I have complained to the dealer but of course I got the familiar answer that this is "normal" and all the 2.0 Turbo engines behave this way. Does anyone else noticed this or is the Florida "cold weather" causing this? :shades: Thank you.
At 2000 miles my engine was grinding and I was down 2.5 Qts of oil. There was a ring problem and a new engine was installed. 4000 miles later the new engine has a bad gasket that is being replaced. Anyone else having this kind of problem? Please let me know. Mention me at babydocscott on twitter.
Comments
http://hmaservice.com/
My wife wants SE with proximity key but I always wonder if its is as secure as traditional key with remote.
Once you have established that you are using your FOB key correctly (read the manual, since it has some options on proximity key). You need to escalate the complaint with Hyundai since its a serious problem.
POStrade in.2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Never had a problem. My son is now driving the last one and has 130k. I urged him to leave the oil alone for at least 10k.
If the Hyundai can't handle it I'll be getting another Acura
Oddly enough, ventilated seats ARE an available option in Korea:
Press Release
Yesterday I received a check from my dealership for $50. There was no memo or letter included with the check to indicate what this was for.
When I called the dealership, they indicated that this was a "rebate check". From what I understand, when we purchased our 2011 Sonata (in Feb 2010) a manufacturer's rebate was not properly included with our purchase price (?)
Any one else have this experience? The receptionist that I spoke to had been getting several calls regarding this issue but really didn't have a lot of information to share with me.
(dealership in Houston)
i am having the EXACT same issues that you are having with starting your car with foot on the brake and car not starting. if you pump the brakes REALLY hard then it will usually get past it... now i am also starting to see traction control light come on randomly.
have you been able to get a resolution to this?
i am also having issues with the brake pedal sensor... (car wont start unless i hit brakes really hard)
is replacing the brake pedal sensor switch really solving this? i have also already had that replaced once.
You can always start the car by holding down the Start button without putting your foot on the brake pedal. It will take about 15-30 seconds, but eventually, it will start.
When the switch fails, you can always start the car by holding down the Start button without putting your foot on the brake pedal. It will take about 15-30 seconds, but eventually, it will start.
Just VERY frustrating to pay $$ for a new car and have to deal with this type of noise.
How does that sound to everyone?
I own a 2011 Sonata 2.0T Limited and I'm having the same "A/C feature" like yours.
Have you found a solution? Maybe.. it happens when the 'Eco' button is engaged?
Thanks.
leaks
more weight - where you want it least
one more thing to break
considerably less headroom
~$1,000 that could be better spent elsewhere
I do like leather seats and some other high end features, but it is getting harder to find them on cars without the ubiquitous sunroof - impossible on a Honda and it looks like Hyundai is going that way too.
When starting engine in the morning the RPS displays about 1800 RPM for about 15-30 sec. After that it drops back to below 1000 RPM. However, when putting in drive (after RPM is back to Normal) I still feel the car a bit jittery. For the first few minutes of driving (I tested it even in cruise control at about 45MPH) I feel an occasional sputtering that goes away after 10-15 minutes. I live in South FL so it is not the cold weather :-)...
I have complained to the dealer but of course I got the familiar answer that this is "normal" and all the 2.0 Turbo engines behave this way.
Does anyone else noticed this or is the Florida "cold weather" causing this? :shades:
Thank you.