2005 Chevrolet Cobalt

majesticwimajesticwi Member Posts: 5
edited December 2013 in Chevrolet
I was wondering if it is possible for the wireless key flob to go out of synch with the vehicle's receiver and if so how to re-synch it?

My key flob worked one day and quit the next. Tested the flob's battery and it was good. Tried another battery, no luck there either. The second key flob is in my daughter's dorm room at college so I can't do a comparision to see if it is the vehicle or flob. The only thing that occurred between the flob working and not was that the vehicle was in for an oil change. In fact the flob was used to unlock the vehicle in order to get to the oil change and wasn't used again till the next morning when it didn't work. I was thinking that possibly a fuse was pulled to reset the oil reminder and the keyless remote was reset by accident.

Any info, much appreciated!
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Comments

  • majesticwimajesticwi Member Posts: 5
    According to the vehicle owner's manual, the theft alarm is suppose to deactivate when using a key to unlock the driver's door. Mine does not. If the vehicle is opened with a key the horn will toot until the ignition is turned on. The alarm will work as it should using the remote key ring tranmitter, but unfortunately we have multiple drivers of this vehicle and not all have the transmitter.

    I had the dealer check into the problem and they informed me that the alarm is working as it should. That the alarm will only deactivate when the ignition is turned on if the vehicle is entered using a key. This would indicate that the owner's manual is in error. I contacted a Chevrolet Customer Service Rep for a definative answer, but they weren't much help and they referred me back to the dealer.

    I was wondering what experience other 2005 Cobalt owners are having with the alarm deactivation?
  • grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    I don't own a Cobalt but a 2005 Equinox. They all got the same alarm system and they work the same. You realy need the transmitter to deactivate the alarm when you get in the car or else the alarm will be activated if you unlock the door manually. You get a couple of seconds to put your key in the ignition. Or be prepare to hear the horn if you're not fast enough.
  • rlenkerrlenker Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2007 with 900 miles on it and I noticed the same thing. I thought It was me.
  • grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    No guys, I'm the one with the 05 Equinox (grosloup). The first month I was freaked out by that alarm system until I understood how it worked. Yes (Majesticw and rlenker), I think we've been trough the same thing with the alarm system and we're not the only ones.
    That's the way it's suppose to work.
  • majesticwimajesticwi Member Posts: 5
    To all those who have replied, thanks for the feedback.

    I will assume at this point that the alarm is working as it should and that the owner's manual is in error.

    Thanks again for the help!
  • tillimtillim Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Equinox . Same problem. It is not you. And That is 'not how it is supposed to work' Because my owners manual specifically states the key or the remote will deactivate the alarm. Besides , what sense does it make to have the alarm go off with the correct key? I know the rental car companies are not happy - customers lose the remotes all the time. Keys are easy to replace, not so remotes. This is an obvious design flaw, plain and simple. I called my dealer serv mgr out on it . Same stupid answer, even though the manual stated otherwise. I wish they would just be honest about it .
  • dmathesodmatheso Member Posts: 3
    My problem is with the secure lock icon on the display panel. It occasionally locks when trying to start my vehicle. I'm able to start it if I leave it and try again in about half an hour. Dealer has been no help since it starts for him each time and they aren't able to record a code for the problem. If anyone has had similar problems I'd appreciate any insight to a solution as I really love this car but dependability is important.
    Thanks in advance for any help!
  • poncho167poncho167 Member Posts: 1,178
    This probably has nothing to do with it but when you take it to the dealer do you remove all other keys except the ones for the car? I have read many times if having too many keys the weight can effect the ignition.
  • dmathesodmatheso Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for taking the time to suggest something. I only have only the one key on my keychain but I did have several at one time. I still have the problem.

    All the best! :cry:
  • cobaltkencobaltken Member Posts: 21
    I put LED taillights on my Cobalt SS Supercharged,now the turnsignals are flashing fast,I was told to change the flasher unit,but no one can tell me where it is on the car.My dealer told me it was behind the button for the fourway flasher button,is this ture?
  • pboyd1pboyd1 Member Posts: 1
    Is there a way to just open the door from the inside when the car door is locked.? It appears you must unlock the door then open the door. My previous car, even if the door was locked you could unlock and open it just by opening the latch on the inside.
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    when it's locked it's locked
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    can you hear it clicking?
  • mikiebmikieb Member Posts: 1
    My friend has a 2005 cobalt with 60,000 miles, and has gone through 6 sets of tires. He doesn't drive fast, or reckless. He gets the car serviced regularly and alignments. Does anyone else have this problem? If you can give me some insight to tell my friend, please do so. thank you
    Mikieb
  • grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    1 - Does he check his tire pressior regularly? The inflation must be as recommended by the car manufacturer.
    2 - Does he rotate his tires as requested by the manufacturer?
    3 - Does he change his tires for "cheap" brands? You get what you pay for.

    It's almost unbelievable. 60,000 miles and 6 sets of tires? It's the first time I hear this.
    And you say that he doesn't drive fast nor reckless and he does his maintenance service regularly ? Hmmmm!

    Something is definitively wrong here.
  • cobaltkencobaltken Member Posts: 21
  • paperboy_1paperboy_1 Member Posts: 10
    i have had the same problem as post #1.. in my case the remote quit working completely and a new battery did not help.. so what i did was remove the fuse that goes to the horn in the fuse box..the lights still blink for a few seconds as if the alarm were going off but the horn odviously would not go off.. of course this means that when in traffic and you want to use the horn it does not work but, this is a viable solution
  • kee1kee1 Member Posts: 3
    After sitting for hours on end my 2005 Chevy Colbalt abruptly jerks for a while...the jerks seem to happen only when the car is initially started up and/or when sitting a red light or stop sign..the jerks stop after about 15mintues of driving. I try to warm the car uo for at leat 20mintues in the morning before pulling it out of the drive way, when I do there are no jerks but if I pull off after only 5 minutes of warming up, it jerks. Does anyone know what the problem could be?
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    one of mine quit working after about a year and a half. i kept the other in a drawer and when i tried it it worked just fine and i have had no problems. i did ask the dealer last time it was in for service and he said some time if the unit is pressed out of range of the car a number of times it will have te be reprogramed.
  • majesticwimajesticwi Member Posts: 5
    Doing a little research, I got the opinion that the resynching method varied depending on the GM model and model year. I found nothing specific for the Cobalt. What I did was try a combination of methods that worked to resynch the key fob to the Cobalt's receiver. I thought I would pass it along to save others the headache.

    1. I removed the RADIO fuse and the BCM (SDM) fuse for 1 minute from the interior fuse panel. The fob receiver is tied in with the power to the radio and the BCM is a module that is tied in with the receiver.

    2. Re-install the two fuses.

    3. Press the UNLOCK and LOCK buttons on the key fob for 15 seconds, then release.

    4. The key fob is now in synch and will work. I don't know if you have to do the "unlock/lock" procedure for all the key fobs as I didn't have the second one available to try. Only ill effect is that you will have to reset the radio's clock and any radio stations that were preset.

    You can bet the next time the vehicle goes in for an oil change I will tell them if they don't know how to reset the oil reminder then just leave it for me. *!%#&*!@$!#% :mad:
  • pa356228pa356228 Member Posts: 34
    My 2006 chevy Cobalt LS does the same thing in hot and cold weathers. It is common. I usually let my car warm up about at least 10 minutes. If you have remote starter and your heater preset, it is alot nicer. Plus, it is better for your car if you give it least 10 mins to warm up. Another way, raise your rpms to 1500 hold a steady pressure on the accelator. It will warm you car up alot faster. In the future runs, after your car is paid off, get a remote starter. I had to purchase one 2 years ago since my Cobalt LS didn't have one included. I used to live in those cold snowy days and nights also do missed the snow. Don't worry about the jerks, it is normal. If the your Cobalt jerks too heavy, then you do have a major problem and it needs to be service or fix. Could be costly. Remember this in the future.
  • kee1kee1 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you so very much for replying! You a GREAT ONE!
  • kee1kee1 Member Posts: 3
  • cgchevycobaltcgchevycobalt Member Posts: 5
    hello i have a 2005 cobalt and i am having alot of problems trying to get my car inspected. I have replaced the MAF and both o2 sensors and the EVAP Purge Valve and the gas cap. I had the codes pulled and they told me that what the problem was and i replaced them and the Check Engine Light is still on. and Cant get the car inspected at all until i get everything replaced to get that light off ANY ONE HELP ME or If you have the same problem. The only problems i had with the car was the radio didnt want to work when i stuck the cd in and the wheel bearing went at 10,000 miles, now my car has 85,600 miles and the Engine light is the only thing that bugs me
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,595
    What you need to do is post the codes that were found on a forum and let people who work with Cobalts fill you in on what may cause those.

    Typically just letting a car parts counter guy check codes and tell you that because a certain code appears it means a certain item is bad and needs replaced usually gets expensive. The cause of the code needs to be determined; often the cause is something somewhere else.

    I don't know if the more general forums for Cobalt here have people who know those things for the Cobalt or not: I'd suggest

    Cobalt or there are some other internet forums you might try.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • cgchevycobaltcgchevycobalt Member Posts: 5
    the codes that come up on my car are
    P0102 MAF or VAF A Circuit Low Input
    P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0141 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0443 EVAP Emission Control System Purge Valve C Fault

    I went to get it inspected and the inspection staion told me it failed the test due to the gas cap and i returned the next day with the gas cap and they told me that its not ready for inspection. And when i shut the car off the only codes come up are the P0102 and the P0443.
    I changed them and the light is on and i asked the Service Station at the Chevy Dealer and they told me i have to get the codes reset and drive the car around and put any where from 50 to 200 miles on the highway and stop and go traffic area and the computer should be reset itself. Ill let you know how it goes after i get it reset.
  • cgchevycobaltcgchevycobalt Member Posts: 5
    i replaced everything from the Evap Purge Valve and the Evap Vent Valve and the Tank Pressure Sensor and the Gas Cap and my light still comes on for the Evap Purge, when i replace the tank pressure sensor i found out the one hose on top of the tank was so loose i went out and found a replacement and its tight now and my light still comes on
  • cgchevycobaltcgchevycobalt Member Posts: 5
  • joshuamrphyjoshuamrphy Member Posts: 4
    Hello to anyone that can help me get my transmission fixed on my 2005 chevy cobalt. My transmission has a shutter that I can not get rid of. This has been on going for a year now and I have had my car in and out of the shop about 4 or 5 times for this problem with no solution.

    I have had several services performed. I have had the transmission flushed of the fluid and new fluid added, the dealer has reflashed my computer and I have had the throttle body replaced but nothing has worked. I took my mechanic for a test ride awhile ago and the is how we replaced the throttle body and I thought that would of fixed the problem, but it didn't.

    Also my car has seemed to have lost it's pick-up from this problem. It is hard to go from a complete stop to start again going up a hill or anything that has an incline. This shuttering problem happens when my engine is warm and has been driven for a little while. The way i get it to happen is I apply my foot to the gas pedal very lightly and it will start to shutter and then slam into first gear. What it feels like is the wheels are moving, but the car itself is not ready to drive just yet. The RPM's go up, but the car does not go.

    I have had this problem for a long time and I need transmission help from anyone that has any kind of experience with this. If there is someone out there that has had this problem before and got it fixed, please let me know what they did so I can tell my mechanic so it gives us something else to look into. Any suggestions of what to do at this point would be appreciated, but I think I am at the point where it is something internal in the transmission that needs to be fixed. PLEASE HELP ME!!!!! I am tired to taking my car to the shop and not getting this fixed.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Joshuamrphy,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Can you please email me more information about your situation so I can look into your situation further? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • sharkman1sharkman1 Member Posts: 19
    Sounds like what happened to mine('06) it's an automatic but acting like a manual. Turned out to be the transmission control module. It was throwing various codes & was hard to track down. They(chevy) happened to have a new tcm on the shelf & decided to give that a try, cured the prob. That was at 85k or 86k, now it has 98,877 & no prob since. Good Luck! :)
  • joshuamrphyjoshuamrphy Member Posts: 4
    Ok i will take the transmission control module into consideration. However I don't know if mine is throwing any kind of codes because my check engine light has not come on when this happens. Did your check engine light ever come on?
  • sharkman1sharkman1 Member Posts: 19
    Yes, that's when I took it to chevy. Told them what it was doing. A couple days later they called & said "its throwing different codes, can't pinpoint yet can we keep it a little longer? We haven't seen this before."

    Anyway, suggest that to your service rep it'll be a good place to continue. How many miles do you have? And what are your thoughts on timing chains?
  • joshuamrphyjoshuamrphy Member Posts: 4
    My car hasn't even thrown a check engine light yet, however I know there is something wrong with my car. I can feel it when I put my foot lightly on the gas pedal. I will run the transmission module control idea past them and see what they say. Thank you for that info that may help me get my car fixed. I have over 76,000 miles on my car and I am trying to get the most out of it.
    On the timing chain question I really don't have an answer. I have never really thought about the timing chain at all.
  • deathcapdeathcap Member Posts: 6
    lol i know old post but still funny
  • majesticwimajesticwi Member Posts: 5
  • lidavislidavis Member Posts: 3
    edited May 2012
    So, last night MY check engine light came on. I've had shudders before but they seemingly went away. I have noticed that my car didn't seem to go as fast as it once had before, and chalked it up to older age. It's a 2005, with 80k on it, I took it to a local place thinking about getting a flush, but they said I needed to go to a transmission specialist, that it was throwing out codes: 700, 752 and 106.

    if you could let me know how much a new TCM cost? and if this issue sounds similar to your own? I'd love to know. I don't have money for an expensive fix. :sick: :confuse: :cry:
  • dustoffalexisdustoffalexis Member Posts: 1
    My car has been doing exactly the same thing, did the transmission control module workout for you? I still have no check engine light. I will take my car for diagnostic next week I will mention TCM to see if replacement fixes problem first hand.
  • colleenhairecolleenhaire Member Posts: 1
    my 2005 chevy cobalt wont t shift into second gear unless you let out of the gas.... please help
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning colleenhaire,

    We would be happy to look into your situation further, although we cannot guarantee what the results will be up front. Please send us the following information via email at socialmedia@gm.com so we can set up a Service Request: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your preferred dealership.

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • lidavislidavis Member Posts: 3
    edited August 2012
    I took it into the dealership, advised that the PEPBOYS got the codes, and they took over from there. After about 3 days of them having my car, it was fixed. They advised that out of the 2 transmission codes that pepboy's found that it was actually the Mapping Censor that was the issue, not either of the transmission codes. ( LIES! :mad: ) Which I'm amazed by b/c once Pepboys realized it was out of the scope of their availability to work with, they didn't even charge me for the work to look into the issue. The Dealership just fixed something so they could get $$.

    The problem with parts, labor and tax, at the dealership came to ~$750.

    The next day I was still getting the same issue with the jerking, and the sputtering, :( but it was still driving. FINALLY though, after about 1 month of this, the light came back on, and again I put it in the shop, advised the EXACT same issues were happening that I put the car in for a month before, after 2 days of pulling it apart and putting it back together again, i was advised that "the mapping censor is working as it should."

    My issue though, is that it's STILL jerking, and shuttering, which is what i put the car in the shop for. :mad: Now I'm being told that they need 5 "certified" hours to be able to look into the sealed Transmission to SEE what the real problem is @ $101/hr. Translating to $505.00 just to SEE what this issue MIGHT be.

    As of the moment I haven't had the TMC changed or recoded yet, I did do a flush and it doesn't seem to have helped anything. I'm really not a car person like this, and i feel like those sharks at the dealership know it, and are basically out to rob me blind.

    I will Say that i have loved my car for every moment that I've had it except when it's needed fixing, b/c while i think the product wasn't bad, the face of GM that is at the dealership, those uncaring, half-hearted, barley sympathetic folks make me hard pressed to ever want another GM product again.

    As it is, I'm honestly looking at the next fix, if that doesn't work I'm now saving for a new car, and I'm pretty sure it wont be another Chevy after all this.

    My car is turning out to be a :lemon:
    Mileage: 83,300
    Previous Repairs(that i've had done): Sunroof Motor (twice), Driver's side window motor, fuses on the driver-side heated seats, taillight's going out about once every 6 months - a year, 1 headlight, had the keyless remote recoded - it broke again and i left it that way, and the recall b/c it could get someone killed; had the power steering column changed out.
    Other random issues i had a problem but it never happened again or is just not THAT problematic: break light warning: just randomly comes on - doesn't stay on, just likes to flash a happy little hello :surprise:, for a while my automatic door-locks would play a drumbeat going off and back on before just staying either locked or unlocked, keyless remote finally broke again after having it recoded - that lasted about 6 months before it broke. Something, Not sure what exactly b/c i haven't bothered to have it fixed, is that my key gets stuck in the ignition, making it so that i cant turn my car off. Another reason i hate the dealers is that they told me that i could leave the key in the car, just make sure everything was turned off and that i should be able to make it in, in the morning. This was a bald-faced-lie, as i had a 1 ton paperweight when i woke up the next day. THAT issue i found a fix for online, which is to just use the emergency key release. For anyone with that issue, you can go here: image push that handy button and you got a freed key! (Oh yeah, that's located on the underside of the steering wheel. there's a little door/hatch, pop it off, and the button is at the top left of that photo.) Other then all of the above, i once adjusted the steering wheel while sitting at a red light and the whole car just turned off.

    Was dead. :surprise:

    Had to crank it again and it just seemed to be fine as it was, THAT hasn't happened again yet but yeah...

    :lemon: !!!
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    We're sorry to hear about this situation, lidavis. If you would like for us to open up a Service Request and check in with your dealership on this, please email us the following information at socialmedia@gm.com: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your involved dealership.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • pissedatgmpissedatgm Member Posts: 1
    I bought this car used last year for my son. It is now dead and I am still paying for it!! Car was maintained as it was supposed to be. Had issues with mapping device or something like that, but mechanics were unable to fix properly... DO NOT BUY A CHEVY OR ANY GM PRODUCT!!! I ALWAYS BUY HONDA OR TOYOTA, BUT MY SON LIKED THIS COBALT SO I BOUGHT IT....BIG MISTAKE!!!!!!!!!!!! I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER GM PRODUCT!!!
  • sharkman1sharkman1 Member Posts: 19
    Don't blame the Cobalt, you didn't do your homework. It's no secret that the '05 Cobalts were plagued with issues. If its the transmission shuttering issue, a transmission control module should take care of it.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Are the mechanics you've been working with at one of our GM dealerships? If so, we can check into this further for you if you would please send us more information to socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your dealership).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • joshuamrphyjoshuamrphy Member Posts: 4
  • bcth90bcth90 Member Posts: 1
    Honest opinion, is it worth putting performance parts on a 2005 Cobalt? Its nothing special, not an SS or LS or anything.
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