Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Can’t get it to a shop unless I flat bed it. Expense!! Thoughts? Ideas on how to unlock the transmission so I can get it to a shop? Thanks for any suggestions.
While it may be the transmission or the transfer case, it could also be the differential.
To establish which it is, disconnect the rear driveshaft. If it then rolls easily it's a transmission problem, if it's still locked up it's the rear axle causing the problem.
1: Throttle pedal extension.
2: Bigger shoes.
3: Change your technique. You should really be using the sole of your foot for both pedals. A good description is given in an Edmunds article here: Heel and Toe Downshift
4: Accept that while being able to brake, change gear, and balance the revs at the same time can buy you fractions of a second at the track, it's not a manipulation of the controls that's required to drive a Jeep Wrangler smoothly and quickly in traffic or on the highway.
If not, how much work will it cost to extend throttle pedal?
Any guidance would be helpful.
Thanks
He told me the STAR team (internal technical problem solvers) at JEEP was aware of the problem and were working on a solution. Further, he advised that once they identified what was wrong, and had the solution, a TSB would probably be forthcoming.
Good luck.
Sorry it took me so long to get back tp you. My trouble was a noisy trans when the clutch was engaged. I've never had any problem of popping out of gear in either my 1998 Sahara or my recent purchase 2004 Sahara. I took my 2004 to 2 4-wheel drive shops. One diagnosed the problem as a needle gear. I wound up getting a new tranny which was nice and tight and quiet for about, oh, 2 weeks. Then it became as noisy as the one I replaced. The only thing I can suggest is to take it to a reliable 4-wheel shop and see what they say.You know VW service depts. used to say that"they all do it". Well, maybe it's "just a jeep thing". My response would be if you want to be all of this plus a bag of chips, FIX IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good luck.
nomad443
I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler 6 cyl 4.0L.
Yesterday I started the Jeep and let it warm up a bit. I left about 5 minutes later and started down this side street that had patches of ice on it, so the ride was a bit bumpy. Once I got to the main road which had no ice patches on it I accelerated to about 65 mph and notice that the whole vehicle was shaking as if there was something stuck to the tires like ice or as if there were a lot of mini ridges on the road. I got to a smoother part of the road where they had repaved and the shaking continued. The it stopped and the ride was very very smooth. I got on the interstate and accelerated to about 75 mph. About a mile or so later, my engine revved up as there was no more transmission traction or pull. It was as if I was in neutral. I coasted off the freeway onto an exit and almost made it over the ramp hump before the ramp goes back down again. Once the Jeep was stopped, I put it into first and tried moving again. The engine revved up as I hit the gas pedal, but when I let out the clutch, there was no response from first. I tried second gear and the same thing happened. I decided to put it into 4H and I was able to move the Jeep very slowly. When I took it out of 4h, I was able to move in first, but at about 1 mph and the engine was revving pretty high. Itried second gear and went a bit faster and the third and so on. The fastest I got was 30mph in fifth gear with RPMs at about 3500. There was a faint whining noise. When i tried to shift back into third from fifth, as I was going 30 mph, there was resistance and the whining got louder, when I finally got into third (about 2-3 seconds later) the spped dropped and I was barely going over 15 mph.
I also noticed that at thispoint I could take off from a stand still in fifth gear.
Once I let the Jeep sit for a minute, I could no longer take off from stand still in fifth gear. It seemed somewhat normal. I put it in first gear, and the first foot or so of movement seemed ok, then the engine revved up, i was barely moving. I shifted to second, third, fourth and then fifth and the same issue occured. I was going about 30 mph with the RPMs at about 3500. I went about a mile like that to a safe location.
My brother came over and towed me home which is about 30 miles away. When we got to my house, I was going to park it in the garage. I started the Jeep, put it in gear and there was no reaction at all, the same as when I first had the probelm on the freeway. I even tried the other gears and again it was as if I was in neutral. I engaged the 4h and the Jeep leaped forward. I took it out of 4h and was able to move the Jeep into the garage where it is sitting now.
Here are my questions:
1. What is happening to this Jeep?
2. What can I check for to see if it is a simple or inexpensive fix?
3. If it requires a mechaninc, what questions should I ask or what should I ask him to do as to not pay for something I don't need done?
4. How much would a repair for this issue cost?
I would really appreciate your help as this is our second vehicle and it is imperative that it get fixed as cost effectively as possible since using one vehicle for the whole family is not working out so well.
Thank you very much,
Pierre
1. What is happening to this Jeep?
2. What can I check for to see if it is a simple or inexpensive fix?
3. If it requires a mechanic, what questions should I ask or what should I ask him to do as to not pay for something I don't need done?
4. How much would a repair for this issue cost?
1: Transmission failure. Several possible causes from minor to major but none that can be fixed without removing and tearing down the transmission.
2: Nothing I'm afraid.
3: You're going to have to pay for removal and refitting the transmission. Additionally you'll have to pay for labor and parts to strip, fix, and rebuild the transmission, or pay for a remanufactured transmission which will be exchanged for your old unit.
Ask for a breakdown on pricing for both options, although you won't get an exact one on the first as the parts required will be unknown until it's stripped down.
Generally the exchange option is the most cost effective. Either way you need to make sure the finished job includes a reasonable warranty.
4: I've no idea. It all depends on labor rates in your local area and which repair option you choose. Choose a good independent mechanic or transmission specialist, not a chain or franchise or lube shop. Shop around extensively, both locally and on the internet, both for labor costs/reputation and transmissions. Until you do you won't know a good deal from a rip-off.
Good luck.
I have a 95 wrangler s 4 cyl. manual. (reminder, my 5th gear is already out because its a 4cyl with 33 12.50 mud rovers on it, but i can still use gears 1-4)-dont know if that has anything to do with this.
It started with a problem with the clutch pressure which we've fixed, Just replaced the master cylinder and slave cylinder.
BUT, the day after those two things were replaced i start my jeep up, pushing the clutch in obviously, and as soon as i put it in neutral and let the clutch out it starts making this really loud rumbling noise and shaking to the point of where i don't want to keep it in neutral because it sounds so terrible, so i hold the clutch in and it stops the sound. It almost sounds like its not in neutral like im trying to let the clutch out in gear without pushing the gas? and while its doing this rumbling its also like trying to move foward a little bit. I have no clue what this is. Does it sound familiar to anyone or anything. Its the hardest thing to explain. Any comments or ANYTHING will be greatly appreciated. Im trying to sell it anyway, and im not even going to try until i fix that outrageous noise. :confuse:
thanks!
Were you referring to the clutch pressure plate or to the pedal pressure required to operate the clutch?
That's so often the case!
The sound you're hearing is typical of a misaligned release bearing.
The bearing itself is probably ok because when it's pressed into place and rotating under load it's silent, but you get the noise when the bearing returns to its resting position.
It's probable that it somehow became detached from the release fork when you were replacing the slave cylinder, and it's now being lightly struck by the pressure plate as it spins.
Hopefully you can fiddle it back on again without having to drop the transmission.
sorry for so many questions!
That's the $64K question!
You'll have to remove the slave cylinder, then using a flashlight and small dental mirror, try to determine what exactly the problem is.
It my be the release bearing has become detached from the fork, or maybe the fork is no longer on the pivot stud, or possible the return spring has broken or become detached.
If something has actually broken then you may have to drop the transmission, but if it's just something that needs reseating or repositioning you stand a good chance of fixing it using stiff wire (coat hanger?) and maybe a magnet on a telescopic extension.
Those examples are from: harborfreight.com/
Good luck, and do let us know the final result.
I had the exact same problem on my Sep 2009 purchased Sahara, the dealership changed the transmission stating they had instructions from Chrysler to do so. I have had no problems with the transmission since then ofcourse but there is a strange whirring noise coming from the engine that no dealership is able to hear ( I have been to three).
Hope you don't need to change the transmission.
you are very helpful.
i will let you know how it went after we look at it!
thanks again
Thanks,
Julie
The gears are designed so that when they're under load, either driving or being driven, they force themselves to stay in mesh.
If they become worn or allowed to move out of alignment you can get the symptoms you're experiencing.
However, and this is very much a long shot, it may be that since this occurred shortly after the transmission was removed and replaced, that console and/or boot around the shifter is misaligned and not allowing the gear to be fully engaged.
You might want to try removing the console and boot to see if that's the case.
If not, then you'll need to tear down the transmission when you remove it to attend to the release bearing.
Aamco had the jeep for two months. By the time they gave up, they basically replaced the complete drive train of the Jeep, but the noise remained. Flex plate, starter, pump, valve body, internals, 3 different torque converters, (smaller in size shorter bolts each time) all replaced and more.
I took the jeep to my mechanic. After his inspection, he felt there was a hydraulic issue.The sound was not metallic to him. He suggested that even though Aamco replaced the valve body there could be an issue with what they did. Some kind of blockage in the valve body or tranny filter. He sent me to long time tranny mechanic who drove and listened to the Jeep. He then contacted a network he belongs to to discuss the noise. He called back and said that no one has dealt with this issue though some suggested a possible hydraulic issue. There is also a sound coming from the valve body which sounds like a turn signal you can hear at idle. The jeep shifts ok.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Who knows, but unless you want to go the route of rebuilding your internals into another case, an exchange unit is the way to go.
Second option, live with it! Let it become part of your Jeep's personality. It shifts ok, doesn't appear to be about to break something, and it's also the easier and cheapest choice.
Thanks......Mark
If it is coming from the transmission but only at certain speeds, then it's probably related to a particular gear and/or the components associated to it.
If you think that may be the case, then I'd get a second opinion from the independant specialist you found.
Hopefully repairs will be done sometime next week. all they offered me for my transportation problems and all the hassles... was a two day rental! whoopee doo!
No wonder jeep chrysler needs a government bail out. won't buy another jeep! They told me "should have bought a warranty" told them "new cars aren't supposed to fall apart.
at least, as the3 original purchaser the power train is covered under a life-time warranty. this warranty does not transfer if vehicle is sold.. You would be a fool to buy a used jeep unless you have the extra cash to buy a new tranny. hope this helps any prosective buyers.... any takers... I have a warn wench and heavy duty warn back front bumpers and tire carrier....?
Does she come with the Jeep?
Unfortunately Jeeps have had problems with the manual transmission for many years, but it's been a lot worse lately. Personally, I think it's a quality control problem rather than a design issue as it doesn't happen to them all.
Obviously it's cheaper for Chrysler to fix them as they arise rather than deal with it at source.
In regard to the warranty, you should still have the original 3/36 which is transferable and should run until 2012 (assuming it was titled in '09).
I have taken it to several mechanics (Jeep dealer, transmission garage, and normal mechanic) and they all told me my transmission was fine, but I needed a new TCM computer. The dealership charged me $180 just to tell me what I thought the problem was, and they kept it for about two weeks. I bought a computer from all computer resources, they programmed it ad sent to to me. I swapped computers out and it worked great for about 20 minutes, and then the same problem. I have no clue what to do?
Any suggestions would help!!!
Try swapping back the old TCM and see what happens.
I'm rather surprised that after spending $180 for diagnosis you didn't let them finish the job. The labor cost for installing the TCM wouldn't have been high, and if it turns out to be bad it should be covered by at least 12 months warranty.
As well as any synchromesh issues with the transmission, you also appear to have a problem with the clutch, possibly low or aerated fluid.
Yes, it's easily done. Check here: O2 Simulator
My service advisor called last week to advise me of a TSB concerning the manual transmission popping out of 1st gear. There has been a redesign of the 1st gear synchronizer. They replaced it and so far no further problem.
I never really had that problem, but thought it best to stay current. We'll see.
This almost certainly connected with the r&r of the transmission and clutch and is unlikely to an internal transmission fault.
The most likely culprit is the clutch pressure plate, either a manufacturing fault or it's not installed completely flat onto the flywheel. This sometimes happens if it's caught on one of the location dowels and/or not torqued to the correct values in the correct sequence.
It could also be that the transmission hasn't gone back fully flush with the engine.
It's also possible to damage the clutch during installation by letting the weight of the transmission hang on the splines of the friction plate, which then gets distorted.
This usually results in a judder as the clutch is released, but if it's bad enough it could cause a vibration throughout the rev range.
Finally, a more remote possibility is if you managed to separate either of the propeller shafts at the slip joint then reassembled them with the 'U' joints out of phase.
Unfortunately, unless it's a propshaft problem, you're going to have to remove the transmission again.