Thanks for all the info on fueling up. Lots of variables. My mileage estimates are, I guess, still accurate. Based on historically driving 200-250 miles b/w fill ups, and having to put in 14-15 gallons. I'm thinking the fuel light comes on prematurely by design. Manual says it indicates there are 2 gallons left, which is probably lowballed for liability. Just a guess. As opposed to saying there are 4 gallons left, and conking out after using 2. Also read that the light will sometimes go on and off at first because of the gas swishing around.
Okay, yet another death wobble: My 2001 Sahara (36000 miles, unmodified with 30" canyon and GSAs) has gradually developed the death wobble over time. Last week, the entire jeep violently shook so hard I thought I was going to lose control. Even though the GSAs need replacing, I don't think that the balance or even tread separation is causing this, because I've had the spare put on, tires rotated & balanced over the past year or more, with no effect on the wobble. The only constant is a gradual increase in incident over the past year or more. From 55 - 60, it will wobble, and if you hit a bump or decellerate as the wobble is getting stronger, hold on for dear life. Hitting bumps at 45 - 70 will also cause the steering wobble as well.
This was my original theory, except the oil and filter were last changed at the dealer. It has a Mopar filter on it as has been the case will all previous changes (the dealer used to have a $9.95 special). But it never made the clattering noise prior to the last oil change about 1,000 miles ago. I suppose the last filter's drain back seal could be deficient. Anyone know who makes Mopar's filters for them?
I finally replaced those useless Goodyear RT/S rim protectors. I bought a set of Dunlop Radial Rover RVXTs. And-forgive me Tom!-I went back to the 30" OEM size instead of the 31" size. I guess it's the track rat in me-I liked the idea of saving 5 pounds per corner in unsprung weight combined with a bit more torque multiplication due to the reduced overall diameter. On a more practical note, the narrower tread should make the Dunlops more effective in snow and rain as well(though ANYTHING would be better than the cursed Goodyears-their wet traction was almost non-existent the last thousand or so miles). I also like the fact that the RXVT is rated as a winter tire, a benefit that only the equivalent BFG KO shares. And the price was right: $81 each from Tire Rack+ shipping. First impressions indicate that the new tires are much better with regards to impact harshness. They may also be a bit quieter as well-though in all fairness almost any LT tire will get louder with age. I'll update my impressions when I finally encounter some rain.
I currently have 30.5" x 9.5. Want to know if I can get the 31 Good year wrangler MTRs - I want the 31, but dont want rub... can someone help me w/ this question? Thanks.
I recall Tom (or Mac) predicting it wasn't going to be the steering gear box....
It was Tom.
I think I said that if it was a faulty steering box it could cause the problem (which I still stand by).
I'll predict that it isn't the suspension arms (and probably have to eat my words), because while they could cause the problem, they would have to be in such terrible condition that they should have been the first thing that was noticed.
I'm having a similar problem with the headlights on a 95 Wrangler. Can anyone tell me where the relay is located?? Any help would be much appreciated = )
The steering stabilizer can control the problem, but a worn stabilizer isn't the cause of it. Check and replace it if it's shot by all means, but first check the steering and front suspension joints, and the front wheel bearings.
When I put on my lift, I did not get the DW, but was told to check the tire balance as well as all ends of all steering components. This is an excellent photo highlighting all the key steering components. Tie rod ends would be a great place to look to see if they are worn. If you have somebody move your steering wheel while you look at the components, look for any play. Tighten bolts were possible (to spec) and replace worn components as needed.
My 05 Unlimited is one week old, 6 Cyl, auto tranny. It starts shaking (not to violently) at 65 MPH. Has anyone else had is problem and does anyone know the cause?
Purolator is currently making the Mopar spin on oil filters. Not sure if they are the sole supplier, but I think they are. I watched some of those filters being made last time I was at Purolator's plant in Fayetteville, NC.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S.
Just remembered seeing some Mopars being made at Wix Filters, too.
Today at the dealership, I overheard the service manager explain to the customer that the trans is not going into overdrive correctly. Think you have problems! I've had my 2005 Jeep Wrangler 6cyl. back twice for oil pressure problems. The dealer has been on the phone with Chrysler and they can't find the cause. My Jeep only has 3100 miles. My advise is to go back and insist they locate the cause. After ( 4 ) service calls you can file a claim as I will with Lemon Law. it's free. Wish you luck on your Jeep! :confuse:
Page 125 of my '05 Unlimited manual says "If you are going to be driving faster than 40 mph with the Sunrider feature open, it is recommended that you remove the rear window of the vehicle." I can't find anything stating not to drive sustained speeds greater than 40 mph using the Sunrider. Maybe manual change?
No, it's the same manual... I was just recalling from memory. Thanks for the quote.
Thanks for the tips guys. Did not think of wheel bearings, but I'll check that as well. I just baffles me how something in the front driveline could be worn with only 36k on the odometer.
If anyone needs a front wheel bearing/hub assembly, do not buy it from the dealership. They want over $300 for them! Even if they discount them a good percentage, you will still pay more than necessary by a LOT.
I had to replace Thelma Jane's left front hub assembly, and I got the part from NAPA for $139.95 with a lifetime warranty.
I wish I could remember the details, but I got a much better price by asking for the hub assembly for an XJ (Cherokeee) instead of for a Wrangler. The very same part with the very same part number is priced differently for different vehicles!
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S. The NAPA part number for that wheel bearing/hub assmebly is BRGBR930219 .
Seems to be a short in the headlights somewhere, but remains ellusive. At first we were getting power to the plugs, but when we plug in the new lights, the power goes away. Thought it might be the relay, but we can't find the old one or a spot to replace it. We were testing the lines yesterday, the boys decided it had to be a short somewhere. They would test a spot, have power, go back to that same spot 5 minutes later & not have power anymore. The brake lights are acting wierd as well. First they weren't working at all, got a new brake switch for it. Now, the running lights are always on and the third brake light is the only brake that works. And then when you turn the lights on, both the running & brake lights are constant, and the third brake light again is the only one working. I think I'm gonna try to find someone to take it to today. I know it's gotta be an easy fix somewhere but we just can't see it.
Tom, Well I fixed the clanking in the back end last night. My little TODO list is complete for Kermit for now.
I bent the exhaust hanger with a crowbar and the exhaust now sits far enough away to not bang on it. I test drove it. STILL CLANKING. I ziptied the fuel relays and such down since the Kilby doesn't have an attach point like the stock 'skid' did. Still Clanking. I thought... nah, it can't be THAT simple.
Source of the clanking...
My D-shackles on the rear bumper. They now sit in the Jeep until I wheel. I took the Jeep over to a neighborhood that is about to be developed. Lots of dirt/mud/ruts to bang around in. No noises now! Not enough terrain to try flexing it, but Kermit is muddy again.
I also got my toe-in adjusted to between 1/16" and 1/8" of an inch, just like it should be. Still going to get an alignment even though it doesn't really pull to one side or the other. May have them check the balance too, just to make sure everything is good. Kermit is happy again!
I was having a problem with the driver side front marker light. It would work sometimes and sometimes it would not. After several new bulbs I looked at the plug itself and it appeared that one of the contacts was broken. Not completely, just enough to contact on a hit/miss basis. I went to Advance auto parts and bought a new generic plug and installed it. Once I did that, my front driver side blinker quit working. I was ticked. I took it out and examined the contacts. They looked OK. I used some spray electronic parts cleaner to clean the contacts in the plug and the bulb and that took care of it.
I didn't catch your first post, but my Wrangler is a 95 Rio Grande. Corroded contacts are a reality on a 10 year old vehicle. Maybe this can help you, maybe not. The electronic parts cleaner is cheap and easy to use. Just be sure to follow the instructions. Maybe worth a try.
Sorry, I wouldn't even know how to do a search on word/phrases for this question, and my "X" service manual doesn't address it (not that I can find! arghhhh).
Several posts ago, someone raised the issue of their rear quarter windows "bowing" in or our during certain driving situations. He was concerned about them stretching or otherwise being damaged.
What I happened to notice yesterday was when I was traveling at approx 60 mph with my windows closed (full metal door w/roll up windows), my back side windows were being "sucked" in. I rolled down the window, and they "bowed" out substantially. I fiddled with the vent and a/c controls, and it really didn't help equalize the pressure.
Guess I'm needing advice on vent controls to preclude bowing/bulging of the quarter/back windows, if indeed vent controls is the "cure/fix" when driving with windows up.
Or, is this just something the Wrangler will do when driving with, say, the driver's window down, and to not worry? Seems like alot of air entering the vehicle, causing the side/back windows to bow out, without something to equalize or "vent" the incoming air back out.
Yeah, I probably confused my question more than needed, but hope you get the gist of what I'm asking.
Bottom line....from what I've described, will the windows be damaged by the bowing/bulging? Take a Xanax and just relax?
Randy, I remember someone addressing this issue a while back. It seems that Wranglers after a certain year have built in vents to exhaust cabin air. The louvers inside the tailgate vent outside behind the spare tire in the negative pressure area of the vehicle. The faster you drive the more they vent and the more the soft windows try to suck inward. On my X, merely turning the fan speed switch up a notch seems to solve the problem (with the front windows up).
With the windows up and the HVAC set to recirculate, the windows will bow in and tend to flutter and make noise. With the controls set to draw in outside air the cabin will pressurize and the windows will bow out and be quieter. Having the HVAC set to 'OFF' will have the same effect as recirc.
TJs prior to '03 vent cabin pressure via leaks in a soft top, and through vents in a hardtop. After '03 the hardtop has no vents and vehicles with both tops vent through louvres that are now part of the tailgate.
The less the soft top moves and flutters the longer it will last.
I didn't know I had the problem until I went for a front end alignment. The technician was setting up to to the alignment and noticed the wobble. He told me that he couldn't do a proper alignment until that got fixed.
I don't remember any symptoms that I noticed on the road.
Mac and Guy: Thanks very much. I noticed the louvres in the rear tailgate, but my owner's manual didn't provide a description nor function for them. Now I know. I'll be sure to set the a/c to outside air; on the way home, I'll check for the difference.
Thanks again....so great to have a forum such as this with folks willing to share!
Well, turns out the squeak and groans I hear coming from the passenger side of my Jeep are not its fault. It's mine. My Jeeperman Skid on the passenger side is what is making the noise, which means it's either rubbing on a bolt coming down from the tub or is not on the frame flush. So we're going to unbolt it tomorrow morning and try again. Nothing like repeating work...
Sorry its been awhile, but work and life are pretty hectic right now.
I still have yet to buy and install a hitch, I'm thinking more along the line of 3rd part as opposed to Mopar. Any recomendations?
I am just shy of 2500 miles (owned since 4/30/05). No failures to speak of, the drivers side seat squeaks every now and then. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to it starting, cold hot, wet dry, slow fast. Anyway, it is much less frequent, but we shall see.
I have not taken a ride with the top off (I have dual tops and the HT is my fav - my 2000 was soft).
I am looking into the Tuffy Underseat Security Drawer, any reviews? I will mount it facing the front of the vehicle and will alos keep the add-a-trunk in place.
About the only "mod" I made was adding the "walleye" mirrors to the sideviews. Helps for me.
Well guess what, the suspension arms did not take care of the problem. I'm completely frustrated, my dealership is not very friendly and not very accomidating at all. The want me to take it back in on Monday and take a tech for a drive and show him the problem. This will be the third trip in for the same problem, I'm very close to getting rid of my Jeep and going with a different car.
Your Jeep had how many miles on it when this problem started? If you told us that, I have forgotten. Your Jeep was just fine and then started doing this all at once? Was it just after something had been changed? Tires? Wheels? Some suspension part replaced? After you had run over something or dropped off into a pothole or anything like that???
Sorry you are having such problems. Jeeps are supposed to be nothing but fun.
Please don't get rid of your Jeep just yet. I think you would regret it later. This thing CAN be solved.
I can imagine how frustrating this is for you, especially for a vehicle that isn't all that old, being an '04. I'd love for you to finally solve your problem, because I'm now interested to hear what the cause is.
All vehicle manufacturers occasionally make cars that have problems that can't be solved. Wasn't there someone here who had a Wrangler where there was an alignment problem with the drivetrain? It seems to me he ended up returning his as a lemon and buying another Wrangler that was perfect. So while you may end up going the lemon law route, don't necessarily give up on Wranglers all together.
I noticed this problem when I purchased 15 x 8 American Racing wheels. I was drining the Jeep home and the problem occured. This was about 8 months ago, the problem new surfaced again so I thought it was a 1 time thing. As of a month ago the problem occurs all the time. So at the first occurance I had around 12000 miles I now have 21000. The wierd thing is that this just started occuring and I have not changed a thing. I thought the problem might be the wheels however I ruled that out by taking them off and putting the factory 15 x 7 wheels back on. No potholes have been hit and I really only drive my Jeep on the highway.
I'm taking it back in on Monday for the third time, how does the lemon law work?
I had an '03 SE with driveline alignment problems. It took the syncros out of 3 transmissions and was going on the 4th before Jeep offered to purchase it back. Never did truly get to the lemon law stage. I took a buyback, paid the difference and bought an '04 X which is pretty trouble free.
Where I reside (Wi.) the lemon law is pretty much the last resort. Up here, the following conditions must be met before filing:
The owner must have purchased the vehicle new.
It must have been offered to the dealer for repair of the same problem on at least 4 occasions within the first year of ownership.
The defect must significantly impair the use, safety or value of the vehicle.
As I stated, mine never came to a lemon law filing. The dealer was great, contacted Jeep on my behalf after the 3rd failure and we worked it out.
Two quick questions for anyone who might know. First is probably the easiest. I just recently bough at 97 wrangler sport. Trying to take the doors off in this nice weather. Took the bottom bolts off of the hinge, but the door won't lift off. Am I missing something, or is it just a stubborn door?
Now for the tires. I have bought 15x9 rims and want to get bigger tires. I have a 4 inch body lift so I am not worried about clearance that way. I am looking to get 32x12.50 on there. Will they rub? Do I need to get 11.5 or 10.5?
Mine was delivered to OKC and was really easy to install. It's rugged and undoubtedly over-sized for my usage (only a bike carrier). Price was also nice; you might also find some on e-bay - - but it's nice to be sure you get all the hardware and so forth to make for an easy install.
Also did an e-bay search. Here's the same hitch I think I got:
Groaning has been fixed. Turned out that the out-rear passenger seat bolt was rubbing against the skid mounting bracket. I wondered why I didn't have the same problem on the driver's side since I mounted them in the same location and it dawned on me. Last fall I installed the Buchannan seat risers on the driver's side and the bolts the come with it do not protrude very far under the tub. So I simply finished the install by putting the other set of risers under the passenger side. Squeak gone.
I went to install the grill hoop that was supposed to be compatible with the factory tow hooks and the fogs lights. Of course, they didn't work. Would not work. So rather than send back the hoop I went and bought a set of Reese two hooks, and I'm glad I did. They look really awesome and they're very beefy, much more so than the factory ones, although the factory ones are very strong. They just look, I don't know, meaner, I suppose. The faIctory models are rated for 7000lbs and the Reese hooks are rated for 10000lbs.
After all that installed some new wiper blades. I nearly went ahead and removed the plastic ends on the rear bumper. They are looking totally grey now. I removed the front ones last year.
A four inch body lift??? I have never heard of a body lift that high before. Can you even get your transfer case into 4-low? Did you have to ream out the hole in the floorboard to allow enough travel for the transfer case lever?
I think you should really consider replacing that body lift with maybe just a one inch body lift. Think of all the stress on those bolts and on the sheet metal where body mount bolts go through as the body sways when you go around corners. I have heard many, many knowlegeable and experienced Jeepers say that body lifts of one inch are no problem, but that should be the limit.
You can gain tire clearance cheaply with a "budget boost," which consists of spacers for the coil springs and longer shocks. Rubicon Express has a nice Budget Boost kit for $229.95. This will give you two inches of clearance, and if you get a one inch body lift to replace your current four inch body lift, you will still have room for 32" tires.
Now, for the rubbing on the spring perches or control arms (inside of tire too close to the frame), it all depends on the backspacing of your rims. Many, if not all, of the Jeep factory wheels have 5.5" of backspacing. With this backspacing, a 10.50" wide tire is the absolute maximum. Even then, some folks have to install washers behind their steering stops to prevent rubbing on the control arms at full turn of the steering wheel.
If you get wheels with less backspacing, then you gain clearance on the inside, and you push the tires to the outside, making them stick out more. Here's a real good diagram to show you what backspacing means.
Good luck, and feel free to ask any more questions that you might have.
It was just me and one of my regular buds, but we spotted a guy in an Unlimited passing by on the main trail while we were eating lunch at the upper end of Dogleg. I hollered, never dreaming the guy would actually be able to hear me, but I got his attention and he came up to where we were parked.
I introduced myself and my bud, and I invited the guy to tag along with us. He took me up on the offer, and we showed him some of our fun spots. Before we left Dogleg, though, the guy (Ted) got in Thelma Jane with me and I did Dogleg again. Ted especially liked the part of Dogleg where you have to lean your Jeep WAY over to get around a tree.
Ted had never done any real wheelin' before, and you guys know how I am about first time off roaders... I was on him like a duck on a June bug! I love to see people learn what their Jeeps will do. Taking newbies out on the trails is one of my favorite things in the world.
Naturally, I referred to Ted as "Unlimi_Ted" all afternoon. Someone else posted that name several posts back, but I had already been thinking that it would be cool if I ever met someone named Ted that had an Unlimited. It happened!
Ted's Unlimited had Rubi wheels and tires, but his Jeep was not really a Rubicon Unlimited. He got a real deal on those wheels and tires, $600 for all five wheels and Goodyear MT/R's off of someone's Rubicon!!!
Had the top and doors back on Thelma Jane and used the A/C all day!
Well I did Camp Jeep on the Road today in Atlanta ... IT was SOOO much fun. I can't wait until I can do an actual Camp Jeep. The on the Road version is put on by the same folks that put on the actual Camp Jeep.
The first thing we did was the Off Road course where they take you in one of their vehicles and you learn what they can do. Boy I learned a lot today. We went over a minor creek crossing (no water) ... then down a really steep incline and back up, around a corner over about 6 big bumps (at least in a Jeep), over a few 4x4 wood blocks to show you ground clearance, then into a water hazard onto a rock formation where you couldn't see over the hood except where the guy was standing them directing you and lastly up a vertical 3 ft hill. It took about 9 minutes to complete but they did have you in 4Lo & 2nd gear in an automatic Rubicon. Did I tell ya it was fun ??? :shades:
I then got to take my Sport into the "Playground" ... I was a little nervous at this point due to seeing quite a few get stuck. There was a really muddy incline climb followed by a rock pile then a curve (didn't think the Jeep could lean that far) onto 6 really big bumps ...that bottomed the Jeep out a few times (especially if you didn't hit it just right) then over a teeter totter type thing with mud ... I really didn't think I was going to make that one and the guide laughed at me because of how nervous I was ... He was really proud that I didn't wimp out. and then I had to do it again.
It was an awesome experience and can't wait to do this type of thing again.
My buddy with the built CJ was asking about you today. He's dying for us to meet you up at TB. Unfortunately, with Grad School I just don't have time right now so it's great hearing/living your adventures vicariously. BTW, you remember emailing me about your contribution to SJ? Well, you inspired me and now I'm doing the same.
Comments
Hey, I've got an idea. How about after market adhesive bird poo?
I'm going to go work on that. See you guys on eBay!!!
Let us know what you think after you drive her. If the suspension arms really have taken care of the problem.
-Mike
Thx,
Mike
Steering stabilizer, or what? Help, Mac!
Want to know if I can get the 31 Good year wrangler MTRs - I want the 31, but dont want rub... can someone help me w/ this question?
Thanks.
It's worth $3 to find out.
Anyone know who makes Mopar's filters for them?
I'm told it's the lowest bidder to meet the specs, so it probably varies from time to time.
It was Tom.
I think I said that if it was a faulty steering box it could cause the problem (which I still stand by).
I'll predict that it isn't the suspension arms (and probably have to eat my words), because while they could cause the problem, they would have to be in such terrible condition that they should have been the first thing that was noticed.
What problem are you having?
The steering stabilizer can control the problem, but a worn stabilizer isn't the cause of it. Check and replace it if it's shot by all means, but first check the steering and front suspension joints, and the front wheel bearings.
When I put on my lift, I did not get the DW, but was told to check the tire balance as well as all ends of all steering components. This is an excellent photo highlighting all the key steering components. Tie rod ends would be a great place to look to see if they are worn. If you have somebody move your steering wheel while you look at the components, look for any play. Tighten bolts were possible (to spec) and replace worn components as needed.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/images/alignment/alignment01.jpg
-Paul
My 05 Unlimited is one week old, 6 Cyl, auto tranny. It starts shaking (not to violently) at 65 MPH. Has anyone else had is problem and does anyone know the cause?
Thanks for your help.
Jack
Purolator is currently making the Mopar spin on oil filters. Not sure if they are the sole supplier, but I think they are. I watched some of those filters being made last time I was at Purolator's plant in Fayetteville, NC.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S.
Just remembered seeing some Mopars being made at Wix Filters, too.
Shaking how? The front end is shaking? Steering wheel is sawing back and forth? Or just a vibration in the drive train?
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Shouldn't be anything that's worn out!
Could be something loose, or something machined out of spec, so back to the dealer and let the warranty take care of it.
Think you have problems! I've had my 2005 Jeep Wrangler 6cyl. back twice for oil pressure problems. The dealer has been on the phone with Chrysler and they can't find the cause. My Jeep only has 3100 miles. My advise is to go back and insist they locate the cause. After ( 4 ) service calls you can file a claim as I will with Lemon Law. it's free. Wish you luck on your Jeep! :confuse:
No, it's the same manual... I was just recalling from memory. Thanks for the quote.
tidester, host
I'll update you when I know something.
If anyone needs a front wheel bearing/hub assembly, do not buy it from the dealership. They want over $300 for them! Even if they discount them a good percentage, you will still pay more than necessary by a LOT.
I had to replace Thelma Jane's left front hub assembly, and I got the part from NAPA for $139.95 with a lifetime warranty.
I wish I could remember the details, but I got a much better price by asking for the hub assembly for an XJ (Cherokeee) instead of for a Wrangler. The very same part with the very same part number is priced differently for different vehicles!
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S. The NAPA part number for that wheel bearing/hub assmebly is BRGBR930219 .
The brake lights are acting wierd as well. First they weren't working at all, got a new brake switch for it. Now, the running lights are always on and the third brake light is the only brake that works. And then when you turn the lights on, both the running & brake lights are constant, and the third brake light again is the only one working.
I think I'm gonna try to find someone to take it to today. I know it's gotta be an easy fix somewhere but we just can't see it.
I bent the exhaust hanger with a crowbar and the exhaust now sits far enough away to not bang on it. I test drove it. STILL CLANKING. I ziptied the fuel relays and such down since the Kilby doesn't have an attach point like the stock 'skid' did. Still Clanking. I thought... nah, it can't be THAT simple.
Source of the clanking...
My D-shackles on the rear bumper.
I also got my toe-in adjusted to between 1/16" and 1/8" of an inch, just like it should be. Still going to get an alignment even though it doesn't really pull to one side or the other. May have them check the balance too, just to make sure everything is good. Kermit is happy again!
-Paul
I didn't catch your first post, but my Wrangler is a 95 Rio Grande. Corroded contacts are a reality on a 10 year old vehicle. Maybe this can help you, maybe not. The electronic parts cleaner is cheap and easy to use. Just be sure to follow the instructions. Maybe worth a try.
Several posts ago, someone raised the issue of their rear quarter windows "bowing" in or our during certain driving situations. He was concerned about them stretching or otherwise being damaged.
What I happened to notice yesterday was when I was traveling at approx 60 mph with my windows closed (full metal door w/roll up windows), my back side windows were being "sucked" in. I rolled down the window, and they "bowed" out substantially. I fiddled with the vent and a/c controls, and it really didn't help equalize the pressure.
Guess I'm needing advice on vent controls to preclude bowing/bulging of the quarter/back windows, if indeed vent controls is the "cure/fix" when driving with windows up.
Or, is this just something the Wrangler will do when driving with, say, the driver's window down, and to not worry? Seems like alot of air entering the vehicle, causing the side/back windows to bow out, without something to equalize or "vent" the incoming air back out.
Yeah, I probably confused my question more than needed, but hope you get the gist of what I'm asking.
Bottom line....from what I've described, will the windows be damaged by the bowing/bulging? Take a Xanax and just relax?
Thanks!
Randy
TJs prior to '03 vent cabin pressure via leaks in a soft top, and through vents in a hardtop. After '03 the hardtop has no vents and vehicles with both tops vent through louvres that are now part of the tailgate.
The less the soft top moves and flutters the longer it will last.
When your bearing hub assembly went out, did your Jeep exhibit the same symptoms?
I don't remember any symptoms that I noticed on the road.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Thanks again....so great to have a forum such as this with folks willing to share!
Randy
Sorry its been awhile, but work and life are pretty hectic right now.
I still have yet to buy and install a hitch, I'm thinking more along the line of 3rd part as opposed to Mopar. Any recomendations?
I am just shy of 2500 miles (owned since 4/30/05). No failures to speak of, the drivers side seat squeaks every now and then. There seems to be no rhyme or reason to it starting, cold hot, wet dry, slow fast. Anyway, it is much less frequent, but we shall see.
I have not taken a ride with the top off (I have dual tops and the HT is my fav - my 2000 was soft).
I am looking into the Tuffy Underseat Security Drawer, any reviews? I will mount it facing the front of the vehicle and will alos keep the add-a-trunk in place.
About the only "mod" I made was adding the "walleye" mirrors to the sideviews. Helps for me.
Semper Fi,
Mike
Your Jeep had how many miles on it when this problem started? If you told us that, I have forgotten. Your Jeep was just fine and then started doing this all at once? Was it just after something had been changed? Tires? Wheels? Some suspension part replaced? After you had run over something or dropped off into a pothole or anything like that???
Sorry you are having such problems. Jeeps are supposed to be nothing but fun.
Please don't get rid of your Jeep just yet. I think you would regret it later. This thing CAN be solved.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
All vehicle manufacturers occasionally make cars that have problems that can't be solved. Wasn't there someone here who had a Wrangler where there was an alignment problem with the drivetrain? It seems to me he ended up returning his as a lemon and buying another Wrangler that was perfect. So while you may end up going the lemon law route, don't necessarily give up on Wranglers all together.
I'm taking it back in on Monday for the third time, how does the lemon law work?
Mark
Where I reside (Wi.) the lemon law is pretty much the last resort. Up here, the following conditions must be met before filing:
The owner must have purchased the vehicle new.
It must have been offered to the dealer for repair of the same problem on at least 4 occasions within the first year of ownership.
The defect must significantly impair the use, safety or value of the vehicle.
As I stated, mine never came to a lemon law filing. The dealer was great, contacted Jeep on my behalf after the 3rd failure and we worked it out.
Two quick questions for anyone who might know. First is probably the easiest. I just recently bough at 97 wrangler sport. Trying to take the doors off in this nice weather. Took the bottom bolts off of the hinge, but the door won't lift off. Am I missing something, or is it just a stubborn door?
Now for the tires. I have bought 15x9 rims and want to get bigger tires. I have a 4 inch body lift so I am not worried about clearance that way. I am looking to get 32x12.50 on there. Will they rub? Do I need to get 11.5 or 10.5?
Thanks,
Tanner
http://www.quality-s.com/children/hitch/hitchMain.htm
Mine was delivered to OKC and was really easy to install. It's rugged and undoubtedly over-sized for my usage (only a bike carrier). Price was also nice; you might also find some on e-bay - - but it's nice to be sure you get all the hardware and so forth to make for an easy install.
Also did an e-bay search. Here's the same hitch I think I got:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7979815899&category=336- 53&sspagename=WDVW
Good Luck!
Gary
I went to install the grill hoop that was supposed to be compatible with the factory tow hooks and the fogs lights. Of course, they didn't work. Would not work. So rather than send back the hoop I went and bought a set of Reese two hooks, and I'm glad I did. They look really awesome and they're very beefy, much more so than the factory ones, although the factory ones are very strong. They just look, I don't know, meaner, I suppose. The faIctory models are rated for 7000lbs and the Reese hooks are rated for 10000lbs.
After all that installed some new wiper blades. I nearly went ahead and removed the plastic ends on the rear bumper. They are looking totally grey now. I removed the front ones last year.
Welcome!
A four inch body lift??? I have never heard of a body lift that high before. Can you even get your transfer case into 4-low? Did you have to ream out the hole in the floorboard to allow enough travel for the transfer case lever?
I think you should really consider replacing that body lift with maybe just a one inch body lift. Think of all the stress on those bolts and on the sheet metal where body mount bolts go through as the body sways when you go around corners. I have heard many, many knowlegeable and experienced Jeepers say that body lifts of one inch are no problem, but that should be the limit.
You can gain tire clearance cheaply with a "budget boost," which consists of spacers for the coil springs and longer shocks. Rubicon Express has a nice Budget Boost kit for $229.95. This will give you two inches of clearance, and if you get a one inch body lift to replace your current four inch body lift, you will still have room for 32" tires.
Now, for the rubbing on the spring perches or control arms (inside of tire too close to the frame), it all depends on the backspacing of your rims. Many, if not all, of the Jeep factory wheels have 5.5" of backspacing. With this backspacing, a 10.50" wide tire is the absolute maximum. Even then, some folks have to install washers behind their steering stops to prevent rubbing on the control arms at full turn of the steering wheel.
If you get wheels with less backspacing, then you gain clearance on the inside, and you push the tires to the outside, making them stick out more. Here's a real good diagram to show you what backspacing means.
Good luck, and feel free to ask any more questions that you might have.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Did you go wheelin' today at TB?
Did you go wheelin' today at TB? "
Does Howdy Doody have wooden teeth?
I sure did.
It was just me and one of my regular buds, but we spotted a guy in an Unlimited passing by on the main trail while we were eating lunch at the upper end of Dogleg. I hollered, never dreaming the guy would actually be able to hear me, but I got his attention and he came up to where we were parked.
I introduced myself and my bud, and I invited the guy to tag along with us. He took me up on the offer, and we showed him some of our fun spots. Before we left Dogleg, though, the guy (Ted) got in Thelma Jane with me and I did Dogleg again. Ted especially liked the part of Dogleg where you have to lean your Jeep WAY over to get around a tree.
Ted had never done any real wheelin' before, and you guys know how I am about first time off roaders... I was on him like a duck on a June bug! I love to see people learn what their Jeeps will do. Taking newbies out on the trails is one of my favorite things in the world.
Naturally, I referred to Ted as "Unlimi_Ted" all afternoon. Someone else posted that name several posts back, but I had already been thinking that it would be cool if I ever met someone named Ted that had an Unlimited. It happened!
Ted's Unlimited had Rubi wheels and tires, but his Jeep was not really a Rubicon Unlimited. He got a real deal on those wheels and tires, $600 for all five wheels and Goodyear MT/R's off of someone's Rubicon!!!
Had the top and doors back on Thelma Jane and used the A/C all day!
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Well I did Camp Jeep on the Road today in Atlanta ... IT was SOOO much fun. I can't wait until I can do an actual Camp Jeep. The on the Road version is put on by the same folks that put on the actual Camp Jeep.
The first thing we did was the Off Road course where they take you in one of their vehicles and you learn what they can do. Boy I learned a lot today.
I then got to take my Sport into the "Playground" ... I was a little nervous at this point due to seeing quite a few get stuck. There was a really muddy incline climb followed by a rock pile then a curve (didn't think the Jeep could lean that far) onto 6 really big bumps ...that bottomed the Jeep out a few times (especially if you didn't hit it just right) then over a teeter totter type thing with mud ... I really didn't think I was going to make that one and the guide laughed at me because of how nervous I was ... He was really proud that I didn't wimp out. and then I had to do it again.
It was an awesome experience and can't wait to do this type of thing again.
Laura