I"m not familiar with SOA lifts, but I've been told that 3 inch body lifts are dangerous.
I've got 33's, a 3.5 RE susp lift and 1 inch body lift, it seems to work well, I've not driven mine hard offroad as many people do, other peoples opinions are sure to differ.
Thanks everyone for the kind words of encouragement!
Green happens to be a favorite color - both of our other vehicles are green, too.
Today I took the hard top off in order to remove the soft top (both come installed from the factory).
It was really easy to remove with help from one of my sons, and since he helped I took him for a quick ride with the top off. Of course he loved it! I can tell it's going to be a long winter...
Putting it back on was just as easy, too.
Since I hadn't had it in 4HI yet, I decided a quick trip around the yard was in order. And since I was already in 4HI, I had to try 4LO and both axle locks, too. With my helper on board, I went down and then backed up a small but steep hill on our property. It's so steep we can't drive up it with our lawn tractor. Of course I had no trouble with the Rubicon. Boy was my son impressed! And I was laughing the whole time.
I can tell I'm going to enjoy my first real off road opportunity!
I'll have to wait a little while, at least until I can get the basic off road gear.
In the mean time, I'll play in whatever snow we have this winter.
Way to go! Glad you have been trying out the off road capabilities of that Rubi already, even if it was in your own yard.
Now, about that snow this winter... be careful!
Due to the high center of gravity, the narrow track, and the short wheelbase, a Wrangler can be awfully "squirrelly." That is especially true with the lockers engaged. You might want to run without the lockers engaged in snow. With both wheels spinning, the end of the vehicle with the locked differential will go sideways in a heartbeat. It would be real easy to do a 360 when going around a corner.
After the first good snow storm find a large deserted parking lot and experiment with your Jeep. 360's can happen in a heartbeat but experence is the best teacher. Do some controlled "edgy" driving in a large empty space and it will teach you what it can and cannot do. Go Easy and have fun . John
My 2005 Wrangler sport is making what the jeep service people descirbe as a "fluffy" noise in the engine. It sounds like a faint ticking and is more pronounced at times, especially during acceleration, but doesn't always happen. When I brough it in they listened to it from outside the vehicle and said it is a normal engine sound. Has anyone else experienced this? Your input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
Alpine CDA 9827 XM compatible head unit Universal XM receiver with Alpine plugs Alpine KCA420 - ipod interface Edgeauto.com 6x9 soundbar (wood interior with neoprene and cloth around (with light) Kicker 6x9's in the soundbar (High Voltage installed) MBQuart 5.25" rounds in the dash (High Voltage did this) Older Kicker 4 channel amp (for front and rears - High Voltage again) Alpine 1 channel amp for sub (High Voltage again) Kicker 8" sub in Tuffy security console (could be factory sub too I guess - HV again)
Both amps secured under rear seat/cover
The Alpine HU I have now is NOT the same one High voltage installed initially. I added the XM myself as it just plugs in behind the HU in the interface jack that the Alpines have.
If you have any other questions, just send me an email if you need more specifics.
Well, Kermit has grown a bit. The TJ is still on 30" tires, but I installed a JKS body lift and Motor Mount spacer lift this weekend. He's getting there!
Getting bigger!
Motor spacers:
Body spacers:
The motor lift let me get rid of the t-case drop I had. I went with the spacers instead of new mounts and the mounts all use polyurethane and the 2.5 would transmit bad engine vibes back to me. I kept the factory motor mounts and installed the red spacers underneath the mounts themselves. Not as easy as it sounds, but I figured it out and it now runs great!
I finally got my manual tranny fluid changed to the correct GL3, as was heavily recommended by you fellow members. Unfortunately, I couldn't find the stuff ANYWHERE here in Windsor (literally spent an hour and a half on the phone). So, rather surprisingly, I called the local Mr. Lube (2 minutes from my house--go figure) which carried the Mopar brand GL3 (as recommended), albeit at a price. $100 bucks later, the fluid was changed successfully (I watched to make sure the Mopar fluid was added) and I IMMEDIATELY noticed improved shifting, despite my jeep being 'cold' (only two minutes from my house, remember!?).
While the fluid change was admittedly pricey, I believe it was well worth it in the long run, for not only imporved shifting, but as a preventative measure due to the damage the GL5 could have caused.
I know I could have done it myself fairly easily, but my parents would have had my head if I made a mess on our new driveway :mad:
Thanks for the advice guys...probably saved me lots of cash in the long run!
Looking for some help - I am moving to Northern Michigan, and thinking about buying a Jeep Wrangler for (primarily) the unique 4WD / convertible combo (I'll need to get out to a remote vacation home on weekends, but want a convertible for the summer). This is an "extra" vehicle as opposed to a primary one - though I expect it will do a lot of transporting the wife and two small children in the snow... But I don't want to buy a new Wrangler - at least until I try one out.
So I am looking for recommendations on what year/model I should buy. I realize this is very open ended, but here are a few qualifiers: - I'm not a car expert, so prefer yr/model with solid maintenance record - Safety (for kids in back) is a concern - I won't do much true off-roading (other than in heavy snow) - probably would spend $10K or so, but willing/able to spend more (or less) if the "best deal" on used Wranglers is a newer (or older) model - I tend to like the gadgets, so if a particular model year added lots of "stuff", that would be a consideration. - Which would be the most likely to run well for 2 or 3 years, and then fetch (relatively) the most $$ on trade-in or trade-up to a new(er) one
Obviously there's a lot of variables here, but I'd go with a '98½ and up. They were learning how to build the vehicle in '97 so there were lots of bugs to be sorted, and the very early '97s weren't OBDII compliant. A '98 gets you the later (current) vacuum HVAC controls, but there's been very little in the way of changes until '03. Mileage and condition will affect trade-in more than model year with the earlier ones. A Wrangler that's unmodified and that has been properly serviced will prove to be very reliable. Various years have their particular quirks, but they're all likely to have been dealt with by now.
I have both a '98 Wrangler Sport and an '04 Unlimited. In some ways there isn't much difference between the two, other than the wheel base and a few gadgets.
Since you are thinking of used, definitely look at the '97 and forward - the TJ models. The suspension system is a huge improvement, and since much of your mileage is on-road, you'll appreciate it.
Maintenance is about the same - they all have the same engines (either the 4 or the 6). I'd recommend getting the 4.0L I6 engine because it is quieter on the highway and the gas mileage isn't all that much different between the 2 engines. They did have problems with the exhaust manifold in earlier models, so if you get something before 2001(? - I can never remember if it was 2001 or 2002 when they re-designed it) make sure that the previous owner replaced it with the re-designed one (otherwise it's a fairly expensive repair).
Safety for kids in the back - some people prefer the Unlimited for this because there is more room behind the back seat. However, it's only been out for a couple of years. Wranglers retain their value, so used ones might be more than you want to spend (and with rebates, etc. going on it would probably be more cost-effective to buy a new one).
Wranglers are basic cars - there are few gadgets available. Sound bars were originally an option, but have become standard (my '98 does not have one, though it is otherwise fairly loaded). They added an autodimming mirror that has interior reading lights, compass and outside temperature recently (my '04 has it) that I really miss when I drive the Sport. Anything like power windows, power door locks, or heated seats are aftermarket things. I had heard that Jeep had a nav system that would fit into the Wrangler's dash for '03 and beyond, but it would be aftermarket. Most of us interested in GPS's have hand-helds that have auto mounts.
Harriet, I'm with you on the mirror thing. I love mine, and use it all the time. All three of our cars have this feature so when I rent a car without it, I certainly miss it.
Diesel Wrangler quote- Next year, meanwhile, Toledo Jeep Assembly will begin building a second diesel model for the U.S. market when the redesigned Jeep Wrangler is offered with the alternative-fuel engine, said Dan Henneman, chairman of United Auto Workers Local 12's Jeep unit. -end
Hey, i've been looking around for weatherstripping kits for my hardtop, and have only found weatherstripping for the front windshield. I did see a kit for $200. Is that price way too expensive, or is that what i should consider paying.. Thanks a lot
Agreed. I'm sort of in the same boat. I've paid mine down a bunch, and hate to lose money, but the Diesel mileage option would be fantastic.
I see a really interesting battle shaping up, that might even compare to the early seventies (Jeep versus K10 versus Bronco versus Scout versus FJ40). The new Toyota FJ, the Hummer H3 (and possible H4) and a new more "civilized" Wrangler with more of a permanent hard top look like they're possibly going to try to compete for the same buyers. Nissan might even consider a new Patrol (who knows)! Since elephant SUV's like the Expedition are in trouble, we might see the days when more workhorse SUV's that are really meant for the outdoors define the segment again. They are selling brand new Avalanches here in KC for 25K$, even without the GM employee deal. Ford even had a "Bronco" concept at the car show last year.
I have a 2002 wrangler, sport. Not too sure what type of weatherstripping it is considered.. Just know that i need it to keep the inside from being drafty. Thanks you if you can help.
Looks like you've already received some sage advice on all of your concerns except the issue of safety and small children. Although I was a Wrangler wannabe for years, I didn't start seriously researching my purchase until Spring of this year. I also originally intended to buy a used Wrangler as a "third" car because I have two toddlers as well and I would not be comfortable having them essentially strapped to the rear bumper. A great deal of online and real world research yielded little information about Wrangler rear passenger safety, so I ultimately relied on common sense and "intuition". I sold my '97 Land Cruiser and bought a new Wrangler Unlimited which has an additional 13-15 inches of crumple zone behind the rear seat. While I'm sure it isn't as safe as my enormous SUV, I think it is a good compromise; and it even passed the "wife" test. This may not be an option for you--it originally was not an option for me--but I thought I would pass along my logic. In short, if you intent to transport small children on a regular basis the wrangler may not be the best choice for you. At a minimum you should test drive one including installing car seats as needed and strapping both kids in the seats. You will quickly realize that it is no minivan. Now, with all of that said I should add that I haul one of my two kids to school 3 days a week and my Unlimited is the most fun I have ever had in the front seat of a car (I hereby copyright at previous remark). My $.02, good luck!
Thanks to all that responded. My brief summarization from the comments is that I should look at either: - a 98-00 (TJ?) as the "cheaper" option, check exhaust and get 4.0L engine - Unlimited (2004?) with extra space in back if kid safety is top priority.
Are any Unlimited's coming off leases yet? And was 2004 or 2005 the first year for this model? I usually avoid anything in its first year, but would love to hear otherwise from happy owners (or those that aren't...).
Any other comments or feedback also appreciated. Mike
That's a reasonable take on the comments so far. If you go for an Unlimited I wouldn't worry about an 'initial build' problem, as the only real difference is a few inches of extra chassis rail and rear fender. Big difference in pricing compared to a '98 though.
Just anecdotal evidence, but the spare tire seems to act as a big protective rear bumper if the Jeep is hit by something big, and if it's rear ended by a regular passenger vehicle then the car usually goes under the Jeep, causing most damage to be to the car.
........i need it to keep the inside from being drafty.
There's a seal on top of the windshield (55176 512AE 1 SEAL, HEADER OPENING), and around the liftgate opening (55175 041AF 1 WEATHERSEAL, LIFTGATE). There's a strip on each side where the top meets the body (SEAL, Enclosure To Body 55176 372AC 1 Right / 55176 373AC 1 Left). The tailgate has a seal (55175 043AE 1 WEATHERSEAL, Tailgate), and there's one around each door (WEATHERSTRIP, Front Door 5017 462AC 1 Right / 5017 463AC 1 Left). From experience I can tell you that OE weatherstripping is way better than aftermarket.
Took too long to get this one. I don't want to chance the scourge from the better half.
She relented and agreed to this purchase, but not without significant "discussion" first! I'm not a lawyer, so I wouldn't want to have to defend my position again. Besides, as I told her over and over and over... I don't need the Jeep, I want it.
2004 and a half, officially. Mine is tagged as an 04 with the DMV. I purchased mine as a repo or trade from a dealer for 21k$, but you could do better now. Check carmax.com for a regional search to see what they're selling them for.
I'm approaching 20k miles now, and no problems whatsoever. I drive it pretty hard, but not nearly as hard as mtngal does! (She commutes a LOOONG ways in it.)
I believe the "no headrest" rear seat is probably the safety issue with the most concern. Since my daughter rides in a booster (and will for another year or two at least) then it isn't a problem for her. And yes, it can swallow a bunch of cargo compared to the SWB TJ.
The drafts are coming from each door. I havent noticed any other drafts. Luckly it has been mild here lately, but i would like to keep it air tight before the winter.. Thanks Mac.
Just try to figure out where the air is coming in. Just replaced the cowl seal on my 95 Rio Grande. Verdict is still out on the effectiveness as it is sitting in the garage with shiny tires and fender flares. Mothers Back-2-Black is wonderful stuff!!!
On a side note, I purchased the cowl seal on-line from Ebay fairly cheap. When it didn't fit, I purchased another one from the dealer that did fit.
You're welcome. It's unusual for the door seals to both fail at a relatively young age, so check that the hardtop is correctly installed as there's a fair bit of wriggle room when the fixings are slack. They are regular full doors aren't they?
I was just confused because when i looked online, on how to install a hardtop, i looked at the best-top site, and they were showing all the weatherstrips you needed. So i figured i was installing this hardtop completely wrong. My jeep didnt come with a hardtop, so do i still need to purchase all of these weatherstrips? Sorry if this all sounds redundant. I am though, having a tough time finding the switches for the rear wiper and defroster. And i still havent gotten all if the wiring configured.. I'm starting to think i should of sold the 03' hardtop, and went traded it for an 02'. But i guess it's a little late for that.
Yes they are full regular doors. Thanks for the help. Mike
The weatherstrip on top of the windshield should already be on your Jeep, as should the ones on the doors and tailgate. The one around the liftgate and the ones that go between the top and the tub should be on the hardtop. I'm assuming that this an OE rather an a Bestop hardtop.
DC make a kit with all the wiring, switches, instructions, and even the washer reservoir with the second pump. You can buy one here: TJ Hardtop Kit.
I keep posting about this, but with few or no replies lately. I thought for sure there were other people out there suffering through Death Wobble as well. Here's where I am:
I replaced my wearing shocks, but as predicted, that did nothing to solve the Death Wobble.
The mechanics at my local Jeep dealer have suggested that the steering stabilizer (if that's not the correct term, it's apparently the thing lying across one of the front end arms that looks like a shock) is the problem.
Additionally, they say the tires need to be balanced. I happily pointed out that I had the tires rotated at their dealership within the last month and implied that they should have balanced them then. Whatever.
But the steering stabilizer seems to be the main culprit. And is under warranty.
Of course this will remain to be seen as I drive the car after the repairs are made.
Wish me luck. And I hope this info helps others.
-Mike
Edit: a quick search of the discussion group shows that this steering stabilizer idea was put forth some months ago. Mac believed it would not be the sole source of the problem. So I am again dubious, but will wait to see what happens.
Sorry for not following closer, but did the tire rotation make it worse or have no effect? The root cause of the problem is oscillation, being that a slight out-of-balance condition which would normally be taken care of by the stabiliser continues to build until the wobble in tire rotation becomes too great to control, forcing you to stop or roll or whatever. Anyway, normal rotating centerline of the front wheels is slightly behind the axle, (think of a shopping cart wheel-at least how they're supposed to work) in that the natural condition of the steering is straight ahead when the truck is moving forward with no force on the steering. The idea is inherent stability. Tight suspension components will allow a slight out-of-balance to be dealt with, where loose ones will allow the wobble to build. If the tires are balanced and the problem comes back, it is ergo suspension. It's pretty much impossible to maintain perfect balance on a tire for very long, so the suspension SHOULD be able to deal with it. The stabiliser is a shock. Some shocks purchased aftermarket can be used as either shocks or stabilisers. It works to absorb sudden movements in the steering, but even if it helps there may be another root cause. Have the tie-rods and pitman arm, drag-links etc. been checked as well?
Since the Jeep is still under warranty, ask them to mount a fresh set of wheels from another Jeep that does not have the problem (a new unsold unit) temporarily, and see if the condition can then be reproduced. They may not be willing to do this, but it would prove suspension problems or lack of.
Sorry to duplicate earlier info, just hoping to offer something useful. Can you tell I did my tour of duty as a service writer?...
Hi, I am new to this board and did not see a posting for this subject, so i thought i would ask. I own a 2000 wrangler, and luckily enough got it broken into. The nice fellow/misses opted to cut into one of my back windows to make it easier for them. Who can i take this wondow to, to repair the ripped plastic? I've heard canvas shops, but do not know of any. I'm sure i could find one, but is this my solution. Lastly, is there anyway i can fix on my own (besides duct tape), or no
Hey, all. I'm still struggling to get my CB to work properly. I first used a Cobra magnetic base unit, but wasn't happy with it cosmetically.
Yesterday, I purchased a glass-mounted (thru the windshield) antenna, which raises the antenna well above the roof line.
Problem is, even though it's advertised as "pre-tuned" (which I know doesn't mean anything!), I simply cannot get the SWR reading below 3 regardless of tweaking the height of the mast (approx 21 inches).
What is "ground plane"? This antenna isn't grounded to anything. Is this my potential problem? The packaging doesn't mention anything about this, but a bit of research said that if "an" antenna isn't grounded properly, you won't get an acceptable SWR reading.
So....is this antenna simply not suited for a Wrangler?
I think the best is to get a replacement window. Bestop makes them and if you call up Quadratec you can order just the one window, I'm pretty sure. It's either that or the duct tape.
I recently mounted a winch on the factory bumper using an aftermarket winch mounting plate. After getting it completely mounted, but fortunately not wired, I was not pleased with the nice gloss black powder coat finish on the mounting plate. So, I pulled it all back off, primed the plate then sprayed it with Rustoleum "Textured" black. Matches the factory TJ finish perfectly and would be great for aftermarket bumpers, hitches, etc. for those of you who are as anal about asthetics as I am.
Looking back through my records, in 2003, my rear window replacement listed at $241.90. The rear quarter window listed at $214.80. That's the full price thru Jeep, but that was okay with me because insurance was paying it. Prices might have ticked up a bit, and as others have stated, you can likely do better thru third party websites.
Problem had been building up over two years, getting more frequent. And the tires had been rotated several times in those years. Recently, a rotation made it way worse, but I then found they had over inflated the tires severely. I don't beleive the tires were the source, but it's possible. Having the stabilizer installed and tires balanced, it will be hard to isolate the problem between the two. Just as long as it goes away. You know, like putting a post-it over the check engine light! :P
I'm planning on installing an alarm system in my '04 Unlimited, and am trying to decide whether or not to hook up the alarm's built in starter disable. My Jeep already has the factory Sentry Key system, and if it's pretty tough to beat, I'd rather not use the alarm's starter disable (want to avoid splicing into more circuits than I absolutely have to!). So what do you think, is the Sentry Key system enough, or would it be a good idea to have a redundant starter disable? Mac? Tom? Anyone?
A starter disable is much easier to bypass than the Sentry Key, so it doesn't really buy you much. Are you installing the alarm to alert yourself to a break-in, or are you hoping passers by will act?
Comments
I've got 33's, a 3.5 RE susp lift and 1 inch body lift, it seems to work well, I've not driven mine hard offroad as many people do, other peoples opinions are sure to differ.
jeff.
Green happens to be a favorite color - both of our other vehicles are green, too.
Today I took the hard top off in order to remove the soft top (both come installed from the factory).
It was really easy to remove with help from one of my sons, and since he helped I took him for a quick ride with the top off. Of course he loved it! I can tell it's going to be a long winter...
Putting it back on was just as easy, too.
Since I hadn't had it in 4HI yet, I decided a quick trip around the yard was in order. And since I was already in 4HI, I had to try 4LO and both axle locks, too. With my helper on board, I went down and then backed up a small but steep hill on our property. It's so steep we can't drive up it with our lawn tractor. Of course I had no trouble with the Rubicon. Boy was my son impressed! And I was laughing the whole time.
I can tell I'm going to enjoy my first real off road opportunity!
I'll have to wait a little while, at least until I can get the basic off road gear.
In the mean time, I'll play in whatever snow we have this winter.
Art...
Way to go! Glad you have been trying out the off road capabilities of that Rubi already, even if it was in your own yard.
Now, about that snow this winter... be careful!
Due to the high center of gravity, the narrow track, and the short wheelbase, a Wrangler can be awfully "squirrelly." That is especially true with the lockers engaged. You might want to run without the lockers engaged in snow. With both wheels spinning, the end of the vehicle with the locked differential will go sideways in a heartbeat. It would be real easy to do a 360 when going around a corner.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Thanks for the warnings.
If I recall correctly, I can only lock the axles in low range, therefore speed won't be an issue!
Otherwise, your warnings are appropriate and wise!
Thanks again.
Art...
Alpine CDA 9827 XM compatible head unit
Universal XM receiver with Alpine plugs
Alpine KCA420 - ipod interface
Edgeauto.com 6x9 soundbar (wood interior with neoprene and cloth around (with light)
Kicker 6x9's in the soundbar (High Voltage installed)
MBQuart 5.25" rounds in the dash (High Voltage did this)
Older Kicker 4 channel amp (for front and rears - High Voltage again)
Alpine 1 channel amp for sub (High Voltage again)
Kicker 8" sub in Tuffy security console (could be factory sub too I guess - HV again)
Both amps secured under rear seat/cover
The Alpine HU I have now is NOT the same one High voltage installed initially. I added the XM myself as it just plugs in behind the HU in the interface jack that the Alpines have.
If you have any other questions, just send me an email if you need more specifics.
-Paul
Getting bigger!
Motor spacers:
Body spacers:
The motor lift let me get rid of the t-case drop I had. I went with the spacers instead of new mounts and the mounts all use polyurethane and the 2.5 would transmit bad engine vibes back to me. I kept the factory motor mounts and installed the red spacers underneath the mounts themselves. Not as easy as it sounds, but I figured it out and it now runs great!
-Paul
While the fluid change was admittedly pricey, I believe it was well worth it in the long run, for not only imporved shifting, but as a preventative measure due to the damage the GL5 could have caused.
I know I could have done it myself fairly easily, but my parents would have had my head if I made a mess on our new driveway :mad:
Thanks for the advice guys...probably saved me lots of cash in the long run!
Ryan
Thought some of you might be interested in this...
(Please note, the above is a somewhat biased point of view!
But I don't want to buy a new Wrangler - at least until I try one out.
So I am looking for recommendations on what year/model I should buy. I realize this is very open ended, but here are a few qualifiers:
- I'm not a car expert, so prefer yr/model with solid maintenance record
- Safety (for kids in back) is a concern
- I won't do much true off-roading (other than in heavy snow)
- probably would spend $10K or so, but willing/able to spend more (or less) if the "best deal" on used Wranglers is a newer (or older) model
- I tend to like the gadgets, so if a particular model year added lots of "stuff", that would be a consideration.
- Which would be the most likely to run well for 2 or 3 years, and then fetch (relatively) the most $$ on trade-in or trade-up to a new(er) one
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Since you are thinking of used, definitely look at the '97 and forward - the TJ models. The suspension system is a huge improvement, and since much of your mileage is on-road, you'll appreciate it.
Maintenance is about the same - they all have the same engines (either the 4 or the 6). I'd recommend getting the 4.0L I6 engine because it is quieter on the highway and the gas mileage isn't all that much different between the 2 engines. They did have problems with the exhaust manifold in earlier models, so if you get something before 2001(? - I can never remember if it was 2001 or 2002 when they re-designed it) make sure that the previous owner replaced it with the re-designed one (otherwise it's a fairly expensive repair).
Safety for kids in the back - some people prefer the Unlimited for this because there is more room behind the back seat. However, it's only been out for a couple of years. Wranglers retain their value, so used ones might be more than you want to spend (and with rebates, etc. going on it would probably be more cost-effective to buy a new one).
Wranglers are basic cars - there are few gadgets available. Sound bars were originally an option, but have become standard (my '98 does not have one, though it is otherwise fairly loaded). They added an autodimming mirror that has interior reading lights, compass and outside temperature recently (my '04 has it) that I really miss when I drive the Sport. Anything like power windows, power door locks, or heated seats are aftermarket things. I had heard that Jeep had a nav system that would fit into the Wrangler's dash for '03 and beyond, but it would be aftermarket. Most of us interested in GPS's have hand-helds that have auto mounts.
quote- Next year, meanwhile, Toledo Jeep Assembly will begin building a second diesel model for the U.S. market when the redesigned Jeep Wrangler is offered with the alternative-fuel engine, said Dan Henneman, chairman of United Auto Workers Local 12's Jeep unit. -end
Thanks a lot
I see a really interesting battle shaping up, that might even compare to the early seventies (Jeep versus K10 versus Bronco versus Scout versus FJ40). The new Toyota FJ, the Hummer H3 (and possible H4) and a new more "civilized" Wrangler with more of a permanent hard top look like they're possibly going to try to compete for the same buyers. Nissan might even consider a new Patrol (who knows)! Since elephant SUV's like the Expedition are in trouble, we might see the days when more workhorse SUV's that are really meant for the outdoors define the segment again. They are selling brand new Avalanches here in KC for 25K$, even without the GM employee deal. Ford even had a "Bronco" concept at the car show last year.
Thanks you if you can help.
Congratulations on your new Jeep Rubicon! You wouldn't want to trade it for my SE would you
Mark
- a 98-00 (TJ?) as the "cheaper" option, check exhaust and get 4.0L engine
- Unlimited (2004?) with extra space in back if kid safety is top priority.
Are any Unlimited's coming off leases yet? And was 2004 or 2005 the first year for this model? I usually avoid anything in its first year, but would love to hear otherwise from happy owners (or those that aren't...).
Any other comments or feedback also appreciated.
Mike
Just anecdotal evidence, but the spare tire seems to act as a big protective rear bumper if the Jeep is hit by something big, and if it's rear ended by a regular passenger vehicle then the car usually goes under the Jeep, causing most damage to be to the car.
There's a seal on top of the windshield (55176 512AE 1 SEAL, HEADER OPENING), and around the liftgate opening (55175 041AF 1 WEATHERSEAL, LIFTGATE). There's a strip on each side where the top meets the body (SEAL, Enclosure To Body 55176 372AC 1 Right / 55176 373AC 1 Left). The tailgate has a seal (55175 043AE 1 WEATHERSEAL, Tailgate), and there's one around each door (WEATHERSTRIP, Front Door 5017 462AC 1 Right / 5017 463AC 1 Left). From experience I can tell you that OE weatherstripping is way better than aftermarket.
So, where are the drafts actually coming from?
With the right incentives... nah, nevermind!
Took too long to get this one. I don't want to chance the scourge from the better half.
She relented and agreed to this purchase, but not without significant "discussion" first! I'm not a lawyer, so I wouldn't want to have to defend my position again. Besides, as I told her over and over and over... I don't need the Jeep, I want it.
Art...
Buy That Cool Car Now
Annelie and the Ford GT
Steve, Host
Thanks. I'll tuck these away in case I need them.
Emotional impact helps!
Art...
I'm approaching 20k miles now, and no problems whatsoever. I drive it pretty hard, but not nearly as hard as mtngal does! (She commutes a LOOONG ways in it.)
I believe the "no headrest" rear seat is probably the safety issue with the most concern. Since my daughter rides in a booster (and will for another year or two at least) then it isn't a problem for her. And yes, it can swallow a bunch of cargo compared to the SWB TJ.
Thanks Mac.
On a side note, I purchased the cowl seal on-line from Ebay fairly cheap. When it didn't fit, I purchased another one from the dealer that did fit.
I am though, having a tough time finding the switches for the rear wiper and defroster. And i still havent gotten all if the wiring configured.. I'm starting to think i should of sold the 03' hardtop, and went traded it for an 02'. But i guess it's a little late for that.
Yes they are full regular doors.
Thanks for the help.
Mike
DC make a kit with all the wiring, switches, instructions, and even the washer reservoir with the second pump. You can buy one here: TJ Hardtop Kit.
I replaced my wearing shocks, but as predicted, that did nothing to solve the Death Wobble.
The mechanics at my local Jeep dealer have suggested that the steering stabilizer (if that's not the correct term, it's apparently the thing lying across one of the front end arms that looks like a shock) is the problem.
Additionally, they say the tires need to be balanced. I happily pointed out that I had the tires rotated at their dealership within the last month and implied that they should have balanced them then. Whatever.
But the steering stabilizer seems to be the main culprit. And is under warranty.
Of course this will remain to be seen as I drive the car after the repairs are made.
Wish me luck. And I hope this info helps others.
-Mike
Edit: a quick search of the discussion group shows that this steering stabilizer idea was put forth some months ago. Mac believed it would not be the sole source of the problem. So I am again dubious, but will wait to see what happens.
The stabiliser is a shock. Some shocks purchased aftermarket can be used as either shocks or stabilisers. It works to absorb sudden movements in the steering, but even if it helps there may be another root cause. Have the tie-rods and pitman arm, drag-links etc. been checked as well?
Since the Jeep is still under warranty, ask them to mount a fresh set of wheels from another Jeep that does not have the problem (a new unsold unit) temporarily, and see if the condition can then be reproduced. They may not be willing to do this, but it would prove suspension problems or lack of.
Sorry to duplicate earlier info, just hoping to offer something useful. Can you tell I did my tour of duty as a service writer?...
thanks
Yesterday, I purchased a glass-mounted (thru the windshield) antenna, which raises the antenna well above the roof line.
Problem is, even though it's advertised as "pre-tuned" (which I know doesn't mean anything!), I simply cannot get the SWR reading below 3 regardless of tweaking the height of the mast (approx 21 inches).
What is "ground plane"? This antenna isn't grounded to anything. Is this my potential problem? The packaging doesn't mention anything about this, but a bit of research said that if "an" antenna isn't grounded properly, you won't get an acceptable SWR reading.
So....is this antenna simply not suited for a Wrangler?
Any help is always appreciated!
Thanks...Randy
I recently mounted a winch on the factory bumper using an aftermarket winch mounting plate. After getting it completely mounted, but fortunately not wired, I was not pleased with the nice gloss black powder coat finish on the mounting plate. So, I pulled it all back off, primed the plate then sprayed it with Rustoleum "Textured" black. Matches the factory TJ finish perfectly and would be great for aftermarket bumpers, hitches, etc. for those of you who are as anal about asthetics as I am.
Mark
Looking back through my records, in 2003, my rear window replacement listed at $241.90. The rear quarter window listed at $214.80. That's the full price thru Jeep, but that was okay with me because insurance was paying it. Prices might have ticked up a bit, and as others have stated, you can likely do better thru third party websites.
Good luck.
Mike
-Mike
I'm planning on installing an alarm system in my '04 Unlimited, and am trying to decide whether or not to hook up the alarm's built in starter disable. My Jeep already has the factory Sentry Key system, and if it's pretty tough to beat, I'd rather not use the alarm's starter disable (want to avoid splicing into more circuits than I absolutely have to!). So what do you think, is the Sentry Key system enough, or would it be a good idea to have a redundant starter disable? Mac? Tom? Anyone?
Marcus