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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • abnparamouseabnparamouse Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 GMC S-15 extened cab with 4x4, 4speed auto tranny, fully loaded with the all digital dash. It has 95,000 miles on it. Apparently I have a short in the Ac circuit.
    Everytime I turn on the AC the fuse blows. I have tried to track it down but to no avail. I was wondering if anyone has any idea where or what the problem is before I go thru and replace the whole circuit. This truck is one of the better trucks i've owned. It does not leak or burn any oil at all. I can step down on the gas and light up the tires with no problem. The engine is completely stock with the exception of an oil cooler. Also I was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a complete wiring diagram just for my truck.
    I have a Haynes and a Chilton manuals but there not really as complete as i hoped the would be.
  • vernon05vernon05 Member Posts: 2
    Hi Slicksleeve,
    If you look at my post #1009 right before yours, my 87 S-15 had engine surging and idling problems which would go away after I drove for a while also. No engine codes were stored. I just changed my EGR valve and all my problems went away. My old valve, I could blow thru it when closed, even though the diaphram was operating properly. Since it is vacuum operated only(no wires attached), no engine codes were stored.
    Something to think about, hope this helps,
    Vernon
  • daves10daves10 Member Posts: 3
    Newbie here so forgive me if this is a common problem.
    I have a 2000 4x4 s10 w 4.3 completely stock w/ 86000 miles. It's in very nice condition and I have driven it almost a year with absolutely no problems. Today I got in it cold for first startup of the day and it fired rite up but when I turned the AC on it died. It turns over now but wont start. It may be a coincedence on the AC thing but thats when it died. I dont hear the fuel pump when I turn the key forward so I'm assuming it's the fuel pump.
    I have no blown fuses and have power at the fuel pump relay. My question is...is there a trick to check for power at the fuel pump short of dropping the fuel tank or removing the bed?? Like a harness thats accessible or wire or something. I dont want to drop the tank just to find that I have no power. I'll do it if I have to replace the pump but surely there a way to check it before doing all that. :sick:

    Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

    Dave
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi,

    Years ago the fuse on th AC mcomp. (for the clutch) would blow when the Freon was low ... ??/
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Unplug the A/C clutch on the compressor, then see if it blows. :)
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Well, yeah. Although I did not specifically state to disconect it ... I assumed he/she would.. After all, they made sure there was enough light available to see if the fuse was blown ... ;')
  • dave1948dave1948 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 s-10, 4wd, 58,000 miles. I have changed plugs, wires distributor, oxygen sensors, gas filter and gas, but no luck. Can anyone help???
  • daves10daves10 Member Posts: 3
    UPDATE FOR MESSAGE#1025: Well I got it fixed. I bit the bullet and removed the 8 bolts to the bed and lifted it off to get at the fuel pump instead of dropping the tank. I found that I had 12v at the grey wire with key forward but that the ground was no good when I grounded to the black wire. So, I spliced into the black wire with one of those piggy back splice connectors then grounded it with a new wire and viola it works great now. It was a sucky way to spend my day off but at least I got it. :shades:
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Good Job and Congrats! - it's always a nice feeling to beat me Mr. Murphy ...

    A few Questions ??? - you stated 8 Bolts for to remove the Bed - how long did it take ??? Would you do it this way if you had to do it again ?? (Sounds like a neat alternative to pulling the tank!!)

    I assume the bad ground was corrosion / bad wire and not a pinched /damaged wire ??

    Last one - Any clue how this ties to the using the AC - or was thaqt just a fluke ???

    Always willing to learn ...
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    At this point -

    I'd check the fuel pump pressure AND flow - and if that checked out - I'd pay the "Diag Fee" and bring it to the dealer ....
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I would check for a plugged cat converter, easy to do with a vacuum gauge. Another way is just put your hand near the exhaust. :)
  • slicksleeveslicksleeve Member Posts: 12
    Well I found my problem. Seems the fuel pump was bad. I bit the bullet and had a mechanic replace the pump.
  • daves10daves10 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks canufixit,
    Yes, I would do it this way again. It was easier than attempting to unhook the wires and lines that you cant see and draining the tank and using a tank jack and unbolting all the tank cover bolts and tank straps ect.. The 8 bolts are easy to access and just bolt straight into permanent threaded ports in the bed (there are no nuts to deal with).It only took me about 15 mins. to remove the bolts. Of course I did have to unplug the wire harness at rear of frame for taillights and remove the 2 little torx screws that hold the fuel tank filler at gas cap to the bed. But thats it. I would say for me it was easier. The bed is not that heavy, I'm guessing 200lbs max maybe lighter. I did it by myself by carefully lifting one side at a time and moving it back where it rested evenly on the rear bumper and tires leaving just enough room to access the tank and fuel pump. I never totally removed the bed completely from the truck because I was by myself. Had I had a friend that wasnt working that day it would have been easily lifted all the way off with 2 people.

    I'm not sure about the ground. It wasnt pinched or cut that I could see. I didn't attempt to follow it to its origin. The pump has a 4 wire plug harness to power and ground the pump and fuel level sender and a 3 wire harness that is just to send signal to guages I assume. On the 4 wire harness the grey wire is 12v from fuel pump relay switched by ignition key. The black wire is ground. The purple wire is voltage for fuel level sender and the black with white stripe is the senders ground. All I know is that I could get 12 volts at the grey wire with key forward during prime cycle if I grounded the test light at frame but couldn't if I grounded it to black wire at harness. Rather than crawling on my back in the 100* Texas heat attempting to trace the ground wire to it's origin I decided to just run a new ground wire. It worked.

    I dont think the AC had anything to do with it other than maybe the sudden demand of current possibly contributing to the death of the fuel pump ground. The AC and everything works great so I think it was a fluke.

    Yeah, I hear you, us DIY's gotta keep learning dont we? :)
  • cchief22cchief22 Member Posts: 2
    Dear Major,
    O.K. problem solved.......when the calipers are manufactured a hole is drilled for the sensor.....since they are manufactured at different locals and slightly inconsistent in the manufacturing process...they are "measured" then a shim (stainless) is dispenced and installed using a "drive rivet" to give the sensor (injected molded housing)the proper clearance between the splined rotor which provides the pulsed signal through the sensor to the ABS sys......over time rust builds up between caliper body and shim....."pushing" the sensor away from the caliper housing and in turn the sensor is too far away from spline to give a good signal....the clearance between the internal rotating spline and the sensor should be about ..005"- .010 " very close...( a quick check is to use ohm meter...check resistence between sensor leads,you should have continuity, then spin hub. there should be noticible change in ohms..now the ABS system will get a clean signal thus no more Motor City shakedown
  • gumbie023gumbie023 Member Posts: 1
    The engine on my S10 blew a head gasket because the radiator was blocked. The repair shop quoted me $1200 for labor and $900 to machine a new head gasket. I was looking for head gaskets on the internet and found some for less than $100. What should a repair like this cost? Is this correct or is there something I don't understand. Anyone ever had this happen to them?

    Thanks in advance for all any input.

    --
    CY
  • paulblodgettpaulblodgett Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 sonoma 2.2 flex fuel 2wd was getting secondary air injection code,,i have replaced the air pump and metal pipe that feeds air to exhaust manifold,,had the code deleted from computer but still getting the same code,,should i replace the o2 sensor at the cat. converter? thanx really need some advise.
  • paulblodgettpaulblodgett Member Posts: 2
    i solved my own problem,,,LISTEN UP<< there is a fuse for the A.I.R (secondary air pump), its between the battery and fender, you have to remove battery, and you'll see a fuse block you will need to remove the black plastic cover that goes over the fuse, it was a large 30 amp fuse,, must have blown when the pump burned out
  • redtruck3redtruck3 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 S-10 LS V6 4.3L 4WD. Since I purchased it new in late 2000, I have had a variety of problems (U-joints, transfer control modules, air selenoid valve, shocks), but the one I have now is scaring me: ball joints.

    I had the lowers replaced at 41K miles, and they are gone again at 48K. In addition, the shocks, upper ball joints, and one idler arm need replacement.

    Am I to live in fear forever with the radio off and the window down so I can hear if my wheels are about to fall off? This truck has only been maintained (every 3000 miles) at the dealer.
  • hillbillyhillbilly Member Posts: 6
    I haven't been to this site in a while but I noticed your question. If you haven't figured it out yet, I belive its 1 3/8".
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Sounds like they need to "machine" the head - because to warped slightly do to overheating .... Gasket is cheap - a few bucks ...
  • rbiguy26rbiguy26 Member Posts: 1
    Hope somone can point me in the right direction with this....

    I recently found out that my turn signals on my truck were not working AT ALL. My cruise control and windshield wipers on the turn signal work and my flashers will work, so i know it is not the bulbs, but it will not even blink on the dash board when i turn on the turn signals either. I was reading in the chilton manual that there is a turn signal relay/module by the cigarette lighter......could this be the problem or would it be the actual turn signal switch itself???
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    It does sound like the relay - chances of ALL the signal stuff breaking is high - except where it is common in the relays ....

    I'd do this ...

    Check a couple bulbs (just to be sure and it only take a couple minutes)
    Buy a new relay and swap it out (or swap it with another truck ...)
    If these fail - get out the schematic and the test light ....
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Replace the turn signal flasher. :)
  • chevygrl1chevygrl1 Member Posts: 1
    I need some help, my s10 won't start after it rains. It will turn over and I think I can hear the fuel pump working when I rurn the key, but it won't "catch". The distributor cap and rotor were just changed; it didn't help. Any suggestions?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    Replace the sparkplug wires. :)
  • ricky24ricky24 Member Posts: 1
    i need some help i have a 2001 s-10 2.2 and i need some adivce does any one out there know why or maybe it is just my tuck but this thing dont have enough power to get out of its own way it seems like it is in second gear when it takes off very slow truck another thing is sometimes when i turn the blinker on a bell sounds like the door is open or some thing also the gas gauge is off. this truck is a nice looking truck and only has about 36000.on it should i have these problems?
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I would say it is starting off in 2nd, any codes. :)
  • cowtowngirlcowtowngirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 S-10 with a 4.3 engine. My service engine light is on with a code of 1345. In the book that code means cam shaft to crank shaft position correlation is faulty I want to know what that means. If it's a sensor I have to replace or what it means.
  • den_keyden_key Member Posts: 1
    I have a 5 speed out of a 2 wheel drive s10. I would like to to remove my (4x4) 4 speed transmission and install the 5 speed.
    OTHER THAN CHANGING OUTPUT HOUSING, will the output shaft from my 4 speed interchange with the 5 speed's guts?
  • speicalopsspeicalops Member Posts: 2
    :cry: Today went 4x4 and went through a 4 foot deep mudd hole, well it started getting very hard to keep alive when they were towning it out so I was told to cut it so water would not enter the engin, so I did! Wel after I was out it would not start for 30 min. Then it started to crank, but would not egnite! So I was pulled to a long hill and we did a rolling start! Well now it starts fine, but when I shif it in to gears nuttin happend the rpms go up butn the truck does not move! Any sussgestions?
  • wbyupeewbyupee Member Posts: 2
    I specialize in wiring problems, and the only thing that fits your problem is a loose
    connecter in the back of your instrument cluster " Gauge Pod". Your transmission shifts gears based on a signal from the "vehicle speed sensor". This sensor is also used to turn the Seedometer. If you have a bad connection to the instrument
    cluster, or damage to that connection, if will cause your gas gauge not to work, your truck not to sift right, turn signal problems, etc. Any curcuit that runs through the printed curcuit on the back of the "cluster". Usually, the connectors are just misaligned in there sockets.
    This could also be caused by a loose ground to the cluster, check your main dash ground located in the lower left corner of the dash, above the E-brake, 14 or 16 gauge black wire.
    That should get you fixed-up!
    :D
  • wbyupeewbyupee Member Posts: 2
    You are correct, More than likely, it is a faulty crank sensor, mounted above the main pully at the front, bottom of the engine. Your camshaft sensor is mounted behind the water pump on the front of the motor, or is build into the distributer, depending on year model. Basiclly, it you have a Distributer, the camshaft sensor is in it "pickup coil" Recommend that you have your car tested with a DIAG computer. This will show the values for each sensor in real time, and pen point the
    problem. I would not recommend buying parts, as this could even be a damaged ECM. The factory service manual from a dealer will tell you step by step tests for each part, including the wiring harness.
  • tjdudetjdude Member Posts: 3
    I just bought a 1999 Chevy S10 pick up, 5 speed 2.2L. Everything seems ok but the only problem is that after running for a while, when i make a stop, and try to shift to 1st, the engine will stop or it will start jumping like when you take out the clutch out and don't put enough gas on the engine, then if i put it in to neutral, at low rpm the engine sounds good but [non-permissible content removed] soon as i push the gas, the engine starts jumping and coghing like if it had an obstructed fuel line. I already change the fuel filter, and the air filter, and a mechanic check the fuel pump presure and checks ok, and the comspumtion of fuel seems ok. The mechanic got some codes from the car's diagnostic module, didn't told me which ones, but just told me one was from the TPM and another from some some part of the chassis.
    I don't think is an obstructed fuel line because the problem seems to be very random and it's not using too much fuel nor lack power of anything when its running good. Then if i turn off the engine for 1hr or more, then it starts just like new. Any ideas how to find out what it is? I hope i can find out what it is, because i'm about to sell the damn thing. Thanks :confuse:
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hi,

    Just a thought ... maybe you have two problems ?? 1 is the rough running and the second is the clutch itself?? When you put in in gear with the clutch in - it should not change the engine speed - providing - the clutch is really adjusted correctly. Perhaps the clutch needs adjustment as it is still slightly rubbing on the flywheel when the clutch is in ???
  • robiscool11robiscool11 Member Posts: 4
    A 96 S10 4x4 5 speed- whats the best weight synthetic oil for the gearbox? It says gm synchromesh oil, but what the hell is that? I'd rather have synthetic oil in it. I put in 90 w gear oil and now it grinds when shifting cold. Any suggestions on what weight to use ??
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    That year has an issue with plug wires, there is a 7 yr 70K warranty on the 99. My warranty is still good to 4-06. :)
  • tjdudetjdude Member Posts: 3
    :confuse: I don't think is the clutch, or it doesn't feel that way, because the clutch seems to be ok, it shifts right on time without any problem, and it's not to high nor low. And like i said, is something very intermittent. Any other idea? Thanks
  • baker82baker82 Member Posts: 1
    when I start my truck it blowes the 20amp fuse that feed the fuel pump relay.
    I have checked the fuel pump its working fine.
  • b_diggyb_diggy Member Posts: 2
    I tried to start my s-dime(2.2L, 5-speed, std. cab.) the other day and the lights started flickering along with a loud, quick ticking sound in the dashboard. After a bit, a cloud of white smoke filled the cab and smelled of burnt rubber. I checked it out the next day and it was a wire that crosses under the steering coumn from one side to the other. I need to know what this is, and if replacing that one wire will fix my problem... any help?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Different synchronizer ring materials require specific lubricants to work properly. Use only GM Synchromesh Fluid, PN 12345349
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    What was that about the 7 yr Warranty ?? - First I heard if this ??? What's the details on years of MFG, etc . ???

    Thanks,
    Canufixit
  • robiscool11robiscool11 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, I did put in the GM syncro fluid, its fine now. Thanks!
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    This letter is intended to make you aware that some 1998 and 1999 model year GMC Sonoma truck, equipped with a 2.2L 4-cylinder engine, may experience illumination of the "Service Engine Soon" (SES) light, engine misfire, rough idle and hesitation. These conditions may be due to spark plug wire failure. The cause of this condition may be improperly seated and loose spark plug wire terminals.
    Action:
    To address the above mentioned condition, General Motors is providing owners with special warranty coverage. If this condition occurs on your 1998 or 1999 model GMC Sonoma truck within 7 years of the date your vehicle was originally placed in service or 70,000 miles (112,000 km), whichever occurs first, the condition will be repaired for you at no charge. :)
  • andrew_869andrew_869 Member Posts: 1
    Did you figure out what was squeeking?
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    We have a 2002 4.3L V6 ZR2 with 85000 miles. Typically we got 15.5-16.2 mpg on the truck, but lately it has been under 15. (Ouch!) This weekend we changed the fuel filter and got 16.8 on the next full tank! I'm not sure if this was all due to the filter change, maybe it was good gas or a big tailwind. We will see after I get a few more tanks down. But for the price and time it takes to change the filter, I think it's worth a shot. Not to mention the stuff coming out the old one was pretty nasty.
  • chevy02chevy02 Member Posts: 19
    My radiator fluid has turned into sludge. I think it is because one weak day when the guys at Jiffy Lube said you are low and asked to top it off I said sure... I think that was a big mistake. Anyways, I think they added the regular blue coolant to my orange dexcool. And although the engine is working fine, underneath the radiator cap there lurks a bunch of lovely sludgy muddy looking stuff.

    I originally was thinking of going to the dealer and having them flush and replace it. Although, I've been looking around on the internet and reading horror stories about Dexcool. Can you switch back to the classic blue green antifreeze after Dexcool if the system is flushed thoroughly? Or should I just stick with the dexcool?
  • chevlvrchevlvr Member Posts: 18
    Hi ,
    TPM could be TPS, which is throttle position sensor. I had mine replaced
    2 weeks ago because at a stop, when trying to throttle up, it would lurch and
    studder like it was out of gas, when I shut down the motor and started it again,
    it would run fine, I have seen alot of simular problems on the site, and this is a
    common problem for the 2.2L. so try replacing the sensor, they run about $45
    atleast, mine did. good luck, hopes this helps T
  • dani_s10dani_s10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 v6 122,000 miles automatic, the problem is the truck runs great except it can't seem to shift easily into second gear, the truck drags and there's a loud almost roaring sound as the truck fights against itself to gain speed, however, once the tac hits 3.5 then it quickly shifts into second. All other gears are operating fine. The oil change done just two weeks ago is now dirty, the new sparks are filthy. I just had the fuel injectors cleaned. My truck won't start unless my foot lightly touches the gas pedal...which I never had to do previously. The local technicians can't find the source of the problem.
  • ch1ch1 Member Posts: 1
    Any hints/tips on replacing the alternator on a 2001 S-10 2.2L 4cyl? It looks pretty hard to get access to - not on the top of the engine like most. Some parts will have to be removed to gain access, but I'm not sure which ones are best. Have replaced alternators before, but I'm pretty much of a mechanic wannabe...
  • joe3891joe3891 Member Posts: 759
    I would remove the passenger side wheel and splash shield, a little work but good access. :)
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