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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • harley88harley88 Member Posts: 4
  • harley88harley88 Member Posts: 4
    It may just very well be that my "mechanic" doesn't have the answer to my problem. In any event, I've just ordered an OBDII Scanning tool and SERVICE ENGINE SOON light resetter from Digimoto Sales in West Bend WI. Total price including shipping was $67.30. They say that the tool will tell me what fault codes are set and will be able to turn off and reset the light. Sometimes you just have to take the bull by the horns and do the job yourself. I've always bought American pickup trucks and sedans. I don't want to turn to the Japanese as they probably have their problems too!
  • wings5wings5 Member Posts: 1
    i too have a fuel pump problem, if i tap the gas tank the pump runs again. i have also other things that act up so i think that the pcm may be at fault as the truck was a victim of a front end accident. my wipers don't run wight, the seat belt lite flashes, starting is low at times,trans jerks into gear, the truck only has 190k and i am very distressed with this as i don't think that it is old enough for these problem too a cure. my truck is a 1998 gmc sonoma/2.2/2 wheel drive
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "if i tap the gas tank the pump runs again"

    If the connections are ok at the tank, it usually means the pump's dinked.

    For the rest of the problems, start looking for a loose or corroded ground.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Boy Chris !!! Thanks So Much.. !!!!

    I saw your post - and decided that, eventually, my cables would go as well (2002 GMC Sonoma 36K and alwarys garaged at home)- so I clicked over to NAPA and bought a set - they arrived last Thursday.

    As luck would have it - I climbed up on the tail gate Saturday to sweeep out the truck - and you can guess what happened !!! Yup - one broke . !!! The other was failing (Inside corrosion inside the the cable Vinyl jacket) at the bottom of the loop ..)

    For others - THIS IS A DANGEROUS thing to happen (and a definate design or mfg flaw -a the cable ends are open for water entry - the aftermakets were sealed (Clever Chinese)!!) !! I was just was climbing up on the tailgate - but If I had a heavy machine on the tail gate - I could have gotten seriously hurt and damaged the truck the cargo etc.!!!

    I'm not real pleased with the E-Clip install - it should of at least had a backup washer for stability so it will not "angle" and snap out the clip - another project I'll do later in the winter ..)

    This needs a re-call !!1

    Thanks !!! (Took me about an hour to do too ...)

    Canufixit
  • ralphy452ralphy452 Member Posts: 1
    First timer here. I have an '85 S-10. My plan is to drop in a 350, (bored, maybe). I also want to convert it over to four wheel drive. My question is this: Would the front stock axle hold up under that kind of power? I will have a full size axle shortened for the rear. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've thought of having a full size unit shortened fo rthe front also. Any thoughts on that idea. Thanks.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    My Thoughts ... (not that thay are worth much :')

    I Think the issues would be with the "Weakest links" in the drive train - In this case the U joint and the Tires (Friction to the road).

    When intense power is suddenly applied - something has to give. I think most of us have spun the tires... Should this weak link be greater then the next (due to fat /sticky tires), I'd think the next thing to go would be the U-joints ..

    So my overall point is - if the Axels are not the "weak link - then they should not be the problem. But, When you Beef up everthting else (UJoints, Fat / oversized tires, etc.) - the next thing will go - perhaps the axels or the gears in the drive train ...

    Canufixit ...
  • markshumanmarkshuman Member Posts: 2
    Got a 98 S-10 with a brake light problem. When I push on the brake pedal the lights go on and then off, even though I have pressure applied to the pedal.Replaced the switch, but it's still doin' it. I hear a click when I push on the pedal that coincides with the brake lights going on, & I thought that this was made by the switch.But I'm wondering if it ain't a relay or something else that I'm hearing. Way I always figured, the brake lights should go on and stay on as long as the pedal has pressure applied. Anybody got any ideas?
  • garryggarryg Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2001 GMC Sonoma with 17,500 miles. The vehicle has the 4.3L V-6. I notice a sound like an electric drill between 2nd and 3rd as it shifts. As the transmission warms this sound goes away.

    Any ideas??? Thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Power for the brake lights goes from the brake switch through the signal switch, then out to the rear bulbs. Here's the wiring schematic:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d8018c183.gif
  • tommctommc Member Posts: 66
    Also maybe something to do with the Hazard/safety flasher lights switch? Seems like there was a recall or TSB on this switch? On top of the steering column and it will flash all four turn signals.
  • digger6digger6 Member Posts: 1
    I'm restoring an '87 extended cab 4X4 with a 2.8 engine and auto transmission. It originally had 4.11 gears but the rear differential was bad so I bought a '90 Blazer as a parts car and removed both differentials and put them in my pickup. The Blazer had 3.42 gears so now my speedometer is way off. I had planned to change the sending unit (which is located in the transfer case) too but the '90 has an induction unit and I need a gear drive to run my speedometer. I would change speedometers too but the odometer is bad in the '90. The Chevy dealer claims that there is no gear that will work but that he can get an 18 tooth gear (the original was 21 tooth) that would "help." I have 235/75 tires and could go to a smaller tire but would rather not. Any ideas?? It is hard for me to believe that they don't have a gear that will work.

    Any help will be gratefully received.

    Thanks,

    Digger6
  • bigabe22bigabe22 Member Posts: 1
    I've had so many problems with this truck(2001 chevy s-10) no one seems to know the source of my truck stalling or not starting up. Dealer says it was the battery and starter, got those replaced still stalling and not starting up. I also got the fuel pump checked, checked out okay. I'm tired of spending money on problems that keep coming back. Anybody have any ideas on what could be causing these problems?
  • pupusmvmcch1gapupusmvmcch1ga Member Posts: 3
    I own an '87 S-10 2.8L that has an '89 motor in it. I had the motor swapped out in apr. there was no problems with the motor before the swap. All of the sudden am having problems with the truck running. Have replaced the fuel pump, filter, electronic ignition module(2x), and coil. :confuse: truck is running rough now. :confuse: Was wondering if I put the wires back on in the correct sequence?
  • billnevebillneve Member Posts: 2
    ...now the engine turns over (after replacing hopelessly dead battery) but does not appear to have any spark. The truck is an 88-S10, 2.5L, 5-speed. I replaced the coil wire which was badly chaffed and still no luck. What damage could have been caused by leaving the ignition in the ON condition all Night? Could it have damaged the Coil, or am I in for a distributer module replacement?

    Thanks In Advance for any assistance!
  • helirchelirc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 S10 with 195K on it it runs great and never a lick of trouble. I have one small problem, heat! I get plenty of heat but not from the floor vents. If I select the the floor vent, it comes out the defroster. If I select the dash vents it comes out the dash and not the defroster (which is right). If I select the defroster it comes out the defroster (which is right). I've watched the damper actuators stroke and they all move fine. I think the damper has come loose inside of the ductwork but for the life of me I can't find a source diagram that shows which damper is for which or how I can get at them. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks, Mike
  • rick68rick68 Member Posts: 3
    My 1998 S10 has Exactly the same problem. The actuator moves nicely from one position to the next. I have replaced the heater(diverter switch- very expensive)switch and this did not solve the problem! Sorry I do not have the solution! Rick
  • jimmyboy1jimmyboy1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 S10 ext cab 2wd w/ 4.3L pickup with 55k and since it turned cold in Ohio it sounds like a I have a turbo under my seat. The transmission whins up in first or reverse for just a few seconds and after it warms up its as quiet as a church mouse. Local Chevy garage never heard of such a thing but heard the noise. Suggested tranny flush or replacement... works and shifts great except the noise when sitting in extreme cold (38 degrees and under) .. any help?
  • slideslide Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1998 Chevy S-10 2.2L and it began running very rough and there is gas dumping into the oil. It is burning very rich and the fumes will burn your eyes. Does anyone have any idea as to the problem. I changed the fuel control valve and this did not help.
  • reeckmanreeckman Member Posts: 2
    I have a similar brake light problem in my 97 Chev K1500. The relay clicks as the brake lights go out after the pedal is depressed more than an inch or so. Depress much further and lights come back on, with another click in the relay. I don't know if relays are supposed to click like that. With relay out, the center brake light still goes on and off the same strange way but without the rear brake lights or clicking. Auto parts stores I found do not carry these relays, so I still need to figure out where to get one to try. Have you had any more luck?
  • fhvickifhvicki Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Chevy S10 has been using antifreeze like crazy. I fill up the resevoir one day & the next day it's empty. My service engine soon light keeps going on & off. It hasn't run hot once & there are no detectable leaks when it is parked overnight or after driving for a distance. Nothing is leaking on the inside either. What generally causes this? I know there are probably several things.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Head gasket, cracked head, does the exhaust smell sweet. What codes do you show.
  • jpfjpf Member Posts: 496
    What type of engine, 4 or 6 cylinder?
  • ldybugs10ldybugs10 Member Posts: 3
    I bought a 1988 S10 2WD over the summer that has V6 3.8L engine w/auto transmission(originally manual). I have since found out that the engine is from a Monte Carlo 1986/87. The rearend and/or transmission recently went out. The guy I bought it from didn't have it long enough to know much about the history of it. Can anyone tell me what type of transmission would have originally been in a S10 w/4.3L engine?
  • reeckmanreeckman Member Posts: 2
    Well, it's not the relay. Those are supposed to click. I successfully fixed my problem after noticing the plug into the switch on the brake pedal was under a varying amount of sideways tension throughout the range of motion of the pedal. So I gently pulled the wire bundle down a half inch or so to give the plug some strain relief, and that took care of it!
  • sparkyguy1sparkyguy1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello All, I recently bought a 96 4.3 4x4 ran great for a short while, now when I start it the rpms peak at about 1400, then drop to about 5-600 and the truck of course stalls. I have replaced the coil, cap and rotor, plugs and wires, all no help. after finishing the plugs and wires, the truck started fine and ran great around the block....I parked it and was ready to declare victory. an hour later I loaded the kids in it and started it to visit the video game store...same problem...got a few ideas where to look next, but I am hoping some one in here has seen this problem and knows what to look for? any help would be greatly appreciated
  • pupusmvmcch1gapupusmvmcch1ga Member Posts: 3
    well THANKS to EVERYONE that helped :mad:
  • pupusmvmcch1gapupusmvmcch1ga Member Posts: 3
    try lloking at the throttle position sensor, or the fuel pump
  • midyearmidyear Member Posts: 1
  • peppergsxrpeppergsxr Member Posts: 1
    I'm running a 2.5 Chevy motor in a street S10. I took off the TBI and put on a Clifford manifold and a Holley 350cfm. The engine starts easily and revs clean in neutral. When driving the engine runs good at low rpms but above that it misses and surges. My air/fuel gauge shows it's running rich but the spark plugs are only slightly black. I haven't tried leaner jetting because I'm having problems finding Holley jets locally. I've adjusted the fuel pressure from 3,5,7 and ten with no improvement. The engine is stock except for a Mallory ignition, manifold and carb. I was told this set up would work and be reliable but now I'm having doubts. Is a Holley 350cfm too big for this setup? I would really appreciate any help you can give me on this.
    Thanks!
  • mthompson1mthompson1 Member Posts: 2
    We are having a similar problem with a 2000 Chevy S10. We were told it was probably due to the oversize tires we put on it. When we take it to Auto Zone they say the code can't be read...like no "power" is going to the code.(?). Did you purchase the kit you were talking about? Did it work? Summit Auto Racing suggested we purchase the same type of kit to reset the codes to be within the specs of the tires. Just wondered if this worked for you?
    Thanks
  • dave1943dave1943 Member Posts: 1
    Have just discovered this forum and have the same problem with my tailgate cables. Bought a pair from 1A Auto for $9.95 each, however mine did not come with a replacement bolt or pin like the NAPA version. It was suggested by the salesperson at 1A that I obtain a "shoulder bolt" to replace the rivet. Have discovered a source here in the Nashville, Tn area (where I live) and will check it out this week. Discovered that once you remove the torx head retaining screws that the latch assembly won't come out without disconnecting the rod that attaches to the release handle in the center of the tailgate. Nothing is ever simple anymore. Anyway, will let everyone know how the shoulder bolt works. Maybe we will all benefit from this bit of info. And as you say, this DOES need a recall to cover shoddy design and mfg.
  • ken38ken38 Member Posts: 8
    My instrument panel "check gauges" light comes on periodically.

    The problem: Temperature gauge reading goes up to max 310 degrees and moves up and down the scale, even after 5 minutes of driving and for longer periods.

    What is the cause of this problem? The dealer says it could be a bad thermostat gasket or or anything for that matter.

    Thansk

    Ken38
    END
    ##
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    No "power" check cig fuse, it powers dianostics.
  • prenticeprentice Member Posts: 2
    Is my Transmission going out? Some time it grind when I down shift to 2. But after I stop and shift to 1 then 2 it work fine.
  • tgeorge2tgeorge2 Member Posts: 10
    My 96 Ext.cab 4x4 S-10 started having a very different feel sometimes when braking. I almost have to "STAND" on the brakes to get it stopped! Do any of you have the solution for a quick fix?
  • vatakvatak Member Posts: 8
    My 96 4x4 had this problem for a while and I found out it was the after-market locking gas cap I put on it. When I put the original gas cap back on, the message went away. That's the only time I've ever seen that message in almost 10 years of ownership.
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    I assume you have power brakes ???
    If so - check for vacuum to / throught the Vacuum hose to the master cylinder/Vac boost... Also, it's possible that; the internal diaphram in the power brake booster/master cylinder is leaking - or that the entire master cylinder / Vacuum boost unit needs replacement.

    How's the engine running at Idle ??? Runnining smooth ?? Or is there a possible /suspect a vacuum leak ??

    Also you can try (in a SAFE AREA / empty large parking lot !!) disconnecting the vac hose and then try the brakes - if it's the same it may be one of the above suggestions ....

    Good Luck !!!
  • canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Hey ! - Good Catch - I've also heard that ;

    The Cap is just loose - or -

    Overfilling tank causes the vacuum hose at the filler neck to suck in gas - it will do similar ...

    Canufixit
  • joshs4joshs4 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 S-10 with the 4.3 TBI. It runs best when cold if it decides to run good that day. Sometimes it's great, other times it runs like a cold motor and then just never gets any better. I can't just step on it real fast, I have to go slow and feel it out. If I step on it too fast, then the more I give it, the less power it makes and will even almost die if I floor it, but then if I let up it picks up again. Less throttle=more power. I have put in new plugs, new timing chain, new cap, rotor, wires, coil. I have run injector cleaner. I think the secondary doesn't always open up and it runs real anemic the more it warms up. It's like the motor is dragging behind and when I go to shift (it's a stick) the revs drop REALLY fast. It's like when it's on "choke" it runs great, but sometimes it never get's there. I think it's running lean, but maybe it's a timing problem with the advance? I have put it on a Snap-On hand scanner and it didn't throw any codes and it still doesn't throw any now. If this simplifies things at all, it's like if it stays on open loop with lots of fuel it runs great, if it goes closed and the computer starts doing it's thing, it all goes downhill from there. Anybody seen anything like this before? Thanks for the help.

    Josh
  • prenticeprentice Member Posts: 2
    Is my Transmission going out? Some time it grind when I down shift to 2. But after I stop and shift to 1 then 2 it work fine.
  • billnevebillneve Member Posts: 2
    To follow up, DO NOT Leave your ignition switch in the ON postion unless the engine is running. As a result of my leaving the switch in the ON position, I had to replace the battery, the ignition module in the distributor (which means pulling the intake manifold to access the distributor!), the coil and then the alternator. A total electrical cascade of damage.
  • toddsonoma99toddsonoma99 Member Posts: 2
    My 99 Sonoma w/vortec v-6, always starts but unless I let it warm up for at least 10 minutes dies when I put it into gear. I can expediate it by putting it into gear and pressing hard on the excellerater which gets me going but sounds bad for the truck(chugging etc.). I've taken it to dealers who come up with nothing. Any insight anyone? would be greatly appreciated...
  • utbasinutbasin Member Posts: 4
    Ken this could be your coolant level is low causing super heating and cooling check to see if your heater go's hot and cold while on the hot setting. If so need to find the leak and fix it.
    Or temp sending unit run ohms from ground signal check to see you dont have a hole rubbed in the wire if contacked with ground it would send the gauge into a high reading.
    good luck
  • utbasinutbasin Member Posts: 4
    Josh could be a few diffrent problems but easy first
    you have two temp seding units on this unit one for the gauge has one wire, one for the computer has two wires if this one has gone bad the pc thinks your s10 is always cold
    if you have a scaner compare these sending unit against each other or use a temp gun to compare.
    next the idle air contol valve IAC take it off and clean it
    located on the throttle body.
    last damping valve or isulator tube. its just a 3/8" hose in your tank that connect the fuel pump to the feed line over time it get a small hole in it your fuel pressers look ok at idle but not under a load it drops enough of this pressure through this pin hole to not pop the injectors.
    Good luck
  • utbasinutbasin Member Posts: 4
    Replace the crank sensor chev has had this problem for years on the 5.7 and 4.3 but wont fix it untill it gos all the way bad your teck should see the incorrect pid reading while trying to crank it.
    Good luck
  • utbasinutbasin Member Posts: 4
    A 2001 is obdII if the light comes on you have just set a hard fault code it will be stored in memory and stay there untill cleared but the light can go off if the prober steps are ran and passed for three consecutive trips back to back.
    you should have the shop look at this you need to know what the fault was. this truck can set a emissions failure fault and still run and fill fine because the computer will make adjustments to compensate. but this can somt times create even more problems and cost more money. If you saw the cap turn the light off replace it.
  • ralphm57ralphm57 Member Posts: 1
    have a s-10 2000 w/ 2.2 flex fuel runs fine around town but get on highway step it down it has little to no power

    have change plug / fuel filter / and it has a new fuel pump any ideas thanx
  • ldybugs10ldybugs10 Member Posts: 3
    I recently had the same problem with my '03 Ford Ranger. I took it to the dealer and it was "Idle Air Control Valve". Found out that you can take your vehicle to Autozone and they can plug in handheld device to check sensors for free.
  • fankhauserfankhauser Member Posts: 3
    I am having an intermittent problem with my 1998 S10 extended cab with the 4.3 Vortec V6. Only when the temp gets below 30 degrees or so I notice a "spot" of antifreeze on the pavement. It's not a puddle and the level in the motor doesn't go down very fast. No leaks while running at temperature, this seems to leak after driven and cooled down. Has anyone experienced this problem? Had intake manifold gasket replaced, water-pump is ok, hoses look alright, it looks like it's leaking from around where the lower radiator hose attaches to the water pump. I'm stumped. Oh, tightened hoses etc. 47000 miles on truck (great driver, just hate anything to leak in my drive.)

    Thoughts?

    MAF :shades:
This discussion has been closed.