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Chevy S10/GMC S15-Sonoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Thanks for your reply on the ABS. I finally got my new ABS modulator valve in the other day. It fixed the problem as you indicated. New question. What's your thoughts on electric fan retro kits for same S-10. One time in cooler weather, we drove it a couple of times on the highway with out the fan. We were waiting for a back ordered fan clutch. It had a marked response in zip. For an old guy in an old truck, zip is good.
John
http://www.tellico4x4.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/33_1896/products_id/18067
Also pulling out hair...
JB
Try this to try to isolate.
While sitting at a dead stop and ign on. - try to SLOWLY turn on just the mist cycle and see how much you have to move (rotate?) the switch. Do the same to the wiper on switch .... The thought here is that it might not be in the wiring - but that the switch(es) contact(s) may be so close that a jiggle of the truck /bump- or a nudge on the turn signal may make the switch(s) close for a second all by itself/themselves ... At least you may be able to tell if it's in the wiring in the column / harness/Vehicle - or in the switch(es) themselves/ itself . I'm not sure if there is a way to adjust the switch if it's too close/senstitive ....
SteveC
SteveC
what could have made the trans. case leak oil? what damage could the leak have caused to the engine or transmission if any? could the issue with the AC have caused the engine to overheat? any help would be great the truck is back at the same dealer for the third time and they told me after this, they washed their hands of it. chevrolet told me they can't do jack because the dealer is privately owned. anyone have suggestions?
the only other option is the sensor floating in the tank. it could be getting stuck or the unit just needs replaced which would mean dropping the tank.
Battery itself: minimum 12.6V (6 plates, 2.1V per plate)
While idling: 13.5 - 14.5V, depends on idling speed, if accessories are on or not
Here are a couple of quick and dirty battery-load tests you can do (better if you have a buddy help you but you do alone).
Hook a volt-ohm meter to the battery, take a reading. Then, take a reading with the engine idling. Next, crack the throttle (raise idle speed) to see if the voltage reading increases (it should). If it doesn't, battery is not being charged.
Follow the same procedures above, but instead of opening the throttle, leave at idle and put a load on the battery, like turn the headlights on, a/c on, and/or radio (this is where a buddy/budette comes in handy). See if the reading goes up or down. Reading may go down a little when the a/c compressor kicks on, but should recover really quick. Should even go up a little, as idle speed usually is increased a few hundred RPM when a load is placed on @ idle.
What does the volt gauge do when you're driving (assuming you have a gauge in the IP)? Does your batt light come on, or stay on longer than normal when starting? How is the cranking, slower each day? If you have a Delco battery with the small site-window in it, what color is the dot? Should be green.
I would look at the alternator connections, and take the alternator in an parts shop and have them test it, as well as the battery. Regulator could be bad. They will perform similar test as above. Many shops can do this, and will for free. If you're not mechanically-inclined, take it to a dealer or independent shop you can trust.
O'yeah in addition to my earlier reply - the 4whl dr. module went out. Ever seen that movie money pit - well money truck.
Example scan.
1-01-O2---------------CLOSED---CLOS-CLOS-CLOS----Cav
2-03-LOAD VALUE-------36.4----22.7-41.9--32.1----21.5
3-04-COOLANT TEMP-----194 F----195F-194F-195F----210F
4-05-S/T FUEL TRIM----0.8%-----0.7-_2.4%-3.9-----0.0%
5-06-L/T FUEL TRIM----0.7%-----0.8--0.0%-3.9-----1.5%
6-07-MAP--------------15 IN.hg-10---18---14------10
7-08-RPM--------------2214 RPM-899--1815-2387----625
8-09-VEH SPEED--------60 MPH---0----48---65------0
9-10-IGN TIMING-------ADV 34.5-15.5-29.0-36.0----12.5
10-11-INTAKE AIR------77 F-----93F--95F--82F-----120F
11-12-THROTTLE POS----12%------0%---13%--12%-----0%
12-23-FUEL TANK PRESS-3.70"H20-0.40-3.40-3.20----0.20
13-26-FUEL LEVEL------44%------97%--91%--92%-----60
14-28-PURGE-----------100%-----100%-100%-100%----45
15-33-INJECTOR PULSE--6MS------3MS--7MS--6MS-----3ms
16-34-INJECTOR PULSE--7MS------3MS--7MS--6MS-----3ms
17-37-A/F RATIO-------14.3-----14.3-14.3-14.3----14.6
18-39-CAT CONV--------1068 F---663F-1020-1133----588
19-40-KNOCK RETARD----0.0------0.0--0.0--0.0-----0.0
20-43-AIR FLOW-LBS/MIN11.68 -2.47-10.62-11.32----1.41
IAC steps -30
The 5 reading match the RPM, even shows cat temp.
Upgraded it this year for CAN and online free updates. The price now is more but it has CAN, good enough for my vehicles.
The scan I posted are from my Sonoma, it gives a good bench mark of a good running engine, it's even fun to play around with if you are into mechanics.
Kevin
Please help? My email is Cedney@gmail.com
Make GM Truck
Year 1997
Model S-Series
Engine 2.2L (VIN 4)
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0121
DTC Definition: TPS/Pedal Position Sensor A CKT Range/Perf
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/18/b9/7a/09- 00823d8018b97a.jsp
I also have a driver side door leak probably due to a warped hinge. I;m just glad the thing runs O.K.
My Sympathies,
Randy
Please Help,
majorkikass
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t425519.html