I just bought my 99 S-10 2.2 Liter about a year and a half ago. It has been a great truck and looks great. This is the first real problem I have had with it. For some reason, when I go down the road it wants to cut-off on me. It will start to cut off but stay cranked and just kind of sputter and all the lights on my dash will cut on. Then, sometimes it will cut off, but I can recrank it while I am still moving, but once again all my dash lights will cut on and either my ABS light or Engine light will stay on. Now, just this week, it cut off on me at a red-light and wouldn't crank back up, it took me about 10 minutes of fiddling with the clutch and ignition and it finally cut back on. It hasn't done that again but has still been acting like it wants to cut off at times. Also, I want to note that, in between doing this it will run great. I can't figure it out, it will cut-off while I'm on the gas, or while I'm applying the brakes. Has anyone else had this problem or has an idea what is wrong?
I have a 2001 S10 2.2L AT that almost died today. It started sputtering and bogging down, and no matter how hard you pushed the gas pedal, it would barely move. My first thought was it lost spark, but the code is coming up P0410, which suggests water in the air filter, from what I can gather. All the code manual says is secondary air injection system malfunction. The second part to the problem is at the same time my catalytic converter has gone bad I am pretty sure, as it smells like rotten eggs. If anyone has any insight PLEASE HELP!!!! :confuse:
P0410 = Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
Not water in the air filter. The secondary air pump, which supplies air to the catalytic converter, tends to pull in water from road splash. The replacement pump has a redesigned air intake to prevent the problem.
If the converter has been damaged, it's factory warrantied for 8 years/80,000 miles.
I have a 98 sonoma zr2 with a vacuum problem that lets the 4wd start to grind into gear when going up a hill. I first had this happen in the winter when it was cold, once I'd hear it start to grind in I just push the 4wd button and it goes in stops grinding take it back out of 4wd its ok for a while. It aslo seems to happen when cruise is on when highway driving. Recently changed brake booster checked vacuum tank found hose deteriorating replaced Now it even does it when its hot out ! anyone had this problem I'd like gto fix it before something gets ruined, thanks
You still have a vacuum leak or your vacuum check valve is leaking . On the driver side with the hood up, close to the firewall there should be a vacuum check valve, it has the hose from the throttle body going to it. Pull a hose off on the on the side opposite the throttle body hose is going into, you should hear vacuum leaking if the system is tight, engine off when checking.
My ignition c circuit on my truck contains my fuel pump starter solenoid and my dash lights. I have experienced problems with all three which leads me to believe there is a short in the system. It gets progressively worse when the daytime running lights come on at the initial startup just wondering if anyone knows where i can get wiring diagram on individual circuits
I have a 1994 Chevy S-10 Pickup LS/2x4/Auto/4.3 V6/77,000 mi. The vortec V6 has a carb. rather than fuel injection. The problem I am having is a large field of electrical noise emanating from the engine into the cab, totally disrupting my AM radio reception (and not allowing me to listen to the Pats & Red Sox during my long trips in to work!). This interference occurred with both the factory radio and the brand new Pioneer deck I had installed. I also tried installing an antenna isolator between the antenna and the deck, but no luck.
This is not alternator whine, but full fledged interference. It only occurs on the AM band, not on FM or when listening to CD's. This interference only occurs while the car is running. Not only does the truck's installed radio receive this interference, but a portable radio I brought into the cab also has the same problem. I moved the portable radio around the car and under the hood to see where the most noise is coming from and it seems to be centered in the distributor/engine block area. My question to everyone is what would be causing this, and what would be a solution? The engine itself runs great, so I am hesitant to mess around with it too much. Would a full tune-up/wire & spark plug replacement remedy the situation? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance for your help.
2001 Chevy Truck S10/T10 P/U 4WD V6-4.3L VIN W Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Computers and Control Systems Testing and Inspection Testing and Inspection Procedures Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts P Code Charts P0410
Notes CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION An Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump is used on this vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM ) supplies a ground to the AIR pump relay, which energizes the AIR pump and the AIR solenoid valve. Engine vacuum is applied to the AIR shut-off valve when the AIR solenoid is energized. The engine vacuum opens the AIR shut-off valve which allows AIR to flow to the exhaust manifolds
Here's the TSB relating to your P0410 trouble code:
2001 Chevy Truck S10/T10 P/U 4WD V6-4.3L VIN W Emissions - MIL Lamp ON/DTC P0410 Set
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-015 Date: March 22, 2004 TECHNICAL Subject: Check Engine Light On, DTC P0410 Set (Replace AIR Pump, Install New Hose Assembly) Models: 1999-2003 Chevrolet Blazer, S10 1999-2001 GMC Jimmy 1999-2003 GMC Sonoma 1999-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada with 2.2L or 4.3L Engine (VINs 4, H, 5, W - RPOs LN2, L43, L35) Condition Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system. Cause Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump. Correction Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using the following procedure: 1. Prep vehicle. 2. Raise vehicle on hoist. 3. Remove shield covering AIR pump. 4. Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid. 5. Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use. 6. Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid. 7. Remove pump mounting bolts and pump. 8. Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump. 9. Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle. Tighten the bolts to 17 N.m (12.5 lb ft) 10. Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up near the area between the battery and the coolant bottle. 11. Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet. 12. Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet. 13. Connect electrical connector to pump. 14. Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly. 15. Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose. 16. Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve. 17. Install shield covering AIR pump. 18. Lower vehicle. 19. Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery. 20. Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top. 21. Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut back into the vehicle. 22. Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On four cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder engines, tie to an available hole in the radiator fan shroud.
So, no one out there has any clue what my problem is apparently. Hard to believe. :confuse: I would like to put a code reader on this truck, but the owner before me screwed it up somehow and it won't fit. I am sure my problem is fixable and I'm sure it's not helping my gas mileage or the truck running this way, but at this point I have no choice. Oh well.....
1.) Do you have an exterior Antenna? The Antenna needs a good ground at the bottom of the antenna to the body - As the vehicle is older, it may be loose, rusted, etc. I'd buy a new antenna , install it ensuring the inside/underside of the mounting hole is good an clean.
2.) Most radios "used to " have a "tuning" adjustment for AM. They used to be in the back - or perhaps if you pull off one of the knobs you will see a "pot" to turn. - check your manual. This adjustment helps with antenna impedenct matching between the radio and the Antenna ....
I recently had my oil changed at a local lube shop and they stripped the drain plug bolt. I had to get a new oil pan (which they paid for). Can anyone tell me what the factory torque specifications should be for an oil pan drain plug for a 1995 Chevy S-10 with the V-6 engine.
I just found this forum...read through first twenty pages or so and noticed that two other owners were experiencing very poor fuel economy. I'm getting 19.2 mpg on highway at 60mph with no a/c. I have a 2000 Sonoma 2.2L with auto trans. I know it should get far better mileage; I had previously owned a '96 S10 2.2L and got over 27mpg with it!
I noticed that the other two problems like mine received no replies so, I might be wasting my time! Engine runs strong, no hesitation, etc. and truck has less than 63,000 miles...I bought it just 2 weeks ago and my mechanic is scratching his head.
What should I be looking for? Dealers just scratch their caps and shake their heads. What's wrong? Doe anyone have a suggestion where to begin looking?
I am a she by the way, and thank you for all the help. My other concern is if water or moisture has entered the system through the air pump, has this or could this have caused damage to any other parts of my engine? i.e. O2 sensor, spark plugs , etc. I just want to make sure once I fix this problem, there won't be any residual effects.
I have a 1991 sonoma and recently the e-break light flashes on and off while my engine is running and the e-break is not on. Is there a way i can fix this?
I have a 2000 S10, I have been having problems with the seat levers. Both lower levers have snapped off, the metal they used for attachment looks like pretty cheap pot metal! any suggestions on repairing this or re-fabricating would be appreciated. thankyou!
I did not read your entire post at first, but you definately have a plug and wire problem, pick up some resister plugs and get a good set of plug wires and that should alieviate the problem.
hi, I have a 2000 s10 2.2L had the same type of problem, I cant remember code # I pulled but ended up replacing throttle position sensor, which seems to be a common problem on the 2.2L. the real weird thing is that I had a converter problem also( sounds like we are in same boat, or atleast were)...good luck!
Try to do a google search on wiring digrams for chevy s10 ignition c circuit and it should have something i needed one for a difirent problem and found it that way some of them are hard to read but if you look around you will find a good one
When I take my 95 S10 out of gear the engine revs high. If I leave it in gear and hold in the clutch I can get the engine to take the RMPs down but once it is out of gear it goes right back up. I have no engine light to appear. Any suggestions?
I recently replaced both handles on my wife 2000 blazer with ones I bought from Ebay. There are a couple of different types, the ones I got have a longer shaft sleve and use a longer screw. The other has a longer shaft sleve with a set screw on the sleve for earlier vehicles that dont have the screw in the center . these both are great easy fixes." Just type in s-10 seat handles under BUY and they'll come up I got ine from snowbuddie1 I thought they were the bust buy for the price.
no, its a 2.2L, and I went out and bought the manual so I could try and locate everything, but the stupid book doesn't have a diagram. I found what I think is the air pump near the cat with two tubes coming from it, and disconnected the tubes temporarily and found no moisture or water. Don't know where to go from here!
The reason I asked is I have never heard of an air pump on a 2.2L OHV engine. I have a 99 2.2 with no pump and once owned a 2000 2.2 OHV and no pump. One way to be sure is under the hood is the emissions decal, all the emissions installed are listed there, take a look, you really got my curiosity up.
We are thinkin of buying a 1989 Chevy Blazer S-10 4WD automatic. But the transmission is slipping. We own a 1986 Chevy S-10 pickup automatic and thought about using the transmission out of it for the Blazer. But this is the question...is the transmission interchangeable with the 4WD? Everything is interchangeable but we arent sure if the 4WD will cause a problem in swapping the tranny out. Thx, Sweets
If the transfer case bolts on to the back of the transmission the output shaft has to be changed. You need to completely disassemble the tranny to do it, its about the first part you install on build up.
come to find out, they have just changed the name of it-it is the smog pump, but apparently GM/California got together and decided they didn't like the name anymore and just wanted to confuse all of us. Anyways, I reset the computer, and no code has come back. I think since it has been so humid, that's what got into the air/smog pump, but the heat dried it up. Having the cat replaced at the dealer under warranty next week so we''ll see.
i had an 88 s10 did the same thing check the engine computer mine had a crack in the resin and it would overheat the computer and cut out i changed the computer and i worked fine
1987 GMC S15 Engine Surge. When I start my truck, if I drive right away without giving a 2 min. warm up time, at the first stop when I push in the clutch, the engine will surge out of control up and down. Eventually it will start to calm down and when the idle has reached the lowest point, it is good to drive again and wont happen until the next day. I can avoid the problem by letting it warm up and idle down to the lowest point before driving. The problem is much worse in the winter with cooler temps. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated. Regards, Vernon
I have a 1995 S10 with the 4.3L TBI V6. Immediately after I start my truck then drive the engine surges. The problem will go away after I drive my truck for awhile. This seems more prevalent with the AC on. Sometimes the truck will idle down then die especially with the AC on. The engine does not seem to accelerate correctly even after the initial surging occurs.
I took my truck to a mechanic and they tested some things with engine scanner. One problem they found was that when you accelerate, the engine timing was retarding instead of advancing. The shop told me I should replace the ignition module in the distributor which I did. This seemed to help a little but the problem still exists. I have replaced all of the standard maintenance parts (plugs, cap, rotor, wires, 02 sensor) and the catalytic converter only has 20K miles on it.
Does anyone have any suggestions on any other items to replace? Why would the AC cause my truck to make this problem worse? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
I've been getting that code on my 2000 chevy s10 2.2 auto, the truck normally starts running ok but after a few minutes I get the SES light on and starts acting up. it shifts really hard, it doesn't downshift if I floor the gas, in fact it doesn't do any downshifting unless I stop completely, any ideas?
Test the TPS or just replace if it's not much money, the transmission goes into default, full pressure. The computer needs to see throttle position to know when to shift, it's all related to the TPS problem.
tps is your throttle position sensor, dont know if you've had any problems like spitting, sputtering at take off or not, but I have a 2000 s10 2.2L, and had to replace mine for that reason......good luck
I'm new to these posts so hoping someone here may be able to shed some light on my 98 S-10 2.2 5 speed. The truck has developed a miss at all speeds..... idle, acceleration..doesn't go away accept on deceleration..probably still there, just not noticable. SES light is on and a code p0302 is there...misfire number 2 cylinder...sounds easy so far.. so here's what has been done to try to correct the problem. Ignition module, both ignition coils, plug wires and plugs were all changed. No improvement. Also did a compression test..all cylinders reading even..175-180 lbs each. I checked for good spark at each plug wire and is firing. I used a long screwdriver to listen to the injectors to see if they were all at least ticking..they all were and none louder than another. I have searched and searched for a flowchart or diagnostic tree for this code to maybe steer me in the right direction. It must be classified information. Now, can anyone tell me if the code is generated by the computer sensing the ignition module or from the injectors, or both, or neither??? I would drive it to Auto Zone for a scan but the inspection sticker is expired and wont pass emissions inspection until I can correct this. Plus, it's running so bad I'm afraid of doing serious damage to it. Has anyone else had to deal with this before?? I unplugged the injectors one at a time and verified that number 2 is the culprit...very little or no change when disconnected. There is no smoke from the exhaust. However, I do suspect an injector because I cannot think of anything else it could be....any thoughts???? My brother bought this truck new and has never had a problem until this. And this started suddenly. I think I listed everything I can say that is related to the problem....btw the truck has 110k on it.. Any help would be GREATFULLY appreciated. Thanks, Steve
I would try some injector cleaner, if that won't work you could change the injector. They are not cheap so you could swap 2 and see if it moves. Techron is one of the better injector cleaners, just put it in the tank.
I had troubles last winter starting my 2.2L 5-speed Sonoma when it sat for a few days when the fuel level was below 1/4. Now I've experienced problems when driving the truck around town and it starts to act like its running out of fuel. This has happened when the tank was well above half. If I kept feathering the gas pedal it will keep running. If I shut it off and re start it seems to run normal. The first two incidents occurred without a SES display. Now the symptoms have changed and the truck seems to have less power and the SES display has lit but disappeared before I could get it to the dealer(1-2 days). I had the fuel filter with pressure regulator replaced as well as top end cleaning. Does anyone have any ideas?
I had exact same problem on my 2000 s10, they can still pull the code, if they go into code history on their code reader. the computer does save the code even though ses goes out. the problem is most likely your tps(throttle position sensor) common on these vehicles. good luck
As a last resort - make sure there is nothing floating around in your tank... a piece of plastic / bag or something else will suck up to the strainer - then float away after you kill the engine/suction ....
I've had the truck in the shop and the indication of the code that set and the way the truck drives is that the TPS needs to be replaced. My mechanic said to just watch it for awhile and see what happens. Well, nothing happened for about 2 months and I'm having problems again. What is the procedure to DIY the replacement of the TPS? Any special tools required? Need help.
nothing real special needed, they have 4 torque screws holding them in( at least on my 2000 they do). And most of the time they are set by the manufacture ( voltage) but if not you need a volt ohm meter and you'll need to know voltage range for your truck( you may need to go online to get) most of the tps's have a little room for adjustment, but I would just replace it with the new one incase the old one starts acting up again, I found it very imbarrassing and a real pain in the -ss! good luck hope this helped
Comments
Not water in the air filter. The secondary air pump, which supplies air to the catalytic converter, tends to pull in water from road splash. The replacement pump has a redesigned air intake to prevent the problem.
If the converter has been damaged, it's factory warrantied for 8 years/80,000 miles.
This is not alternator whine, but full fledged interference. It only occurs on the AM band, not on FM or when listening to CD's. This interference only occurs while the car is running. Not only does the truck's installed radio receive this interference, but a portable radio I brought into the cab also has the same problem. I moved the portable radio around the car and under the hood to see where the most noise is coming from and it seems to be centered in the distributor/engine block area. My question to everyone is what would be causing this, and what would be a solution? The engine itself runs great, so I am hesitant to mess around with it too much. Would a full tune-up/wire & spark plug replacement remedy the situation? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks in advance for your help.
Vehicle Level Powertrain Management Computers and Control Systems Testing and Inspection
Testing and Inspection Procedures Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts P Code Charts P0410
Notes
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
An Secondary Air Injection (AIR) pump is used on this vehicle to lower tail pipe
emissions on start-up. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM ) supplies a ground to the
AIR pump relay, which energizes the AIR pump and the AIR solenoid valve. Engine
vacuum is applied to the AIR shut-off valve when the AIR solenoid is energized. The
engine vacuum opens the AIR shut-off valve which allows AIR to flow to the
exhaust manifolds
2001 Chevy Truck S10/T10 P/U 4WD V6-4.3L VIN W
Emissions - MIL Lamp ON/DTC P0410 Set
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-015
Date: March 22, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Check Engine Light On, DTC P0410 Set (Replace AIR Pump, Install New Hose Assembly)
Models:
1999-2003 Chevrolet Blazer, S10
1999-2001 GMC Jimmy
1999-2003 GMC Sonoma
1999-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 2.2L or 4.3L Engine (VINs 4, H, 5, W - RPOs LN2, L43, L35)
Condition
Some owners may comment on the check engine light being illuminated. Upon investigation, the technician may find a DTC P0410 indicating that there is a concern in the secondary air injection system.
Cause
Water may have collected in the AIR pump or the vent solenoid and frozen or corroded the pump.
Correction
Replace the AIR pump and install a new inlet hose and solenoid tube assembly using the following procedure:
1. Prep vehicle.
2. Raise vehicle on hoist.
3. Remove shield covering AIR pump.
4. Remove hose and vacuum lines from pump and solenoid.
5. Remove AIR pump inlet hose. Do not re-use.
6. Disconnect electrical connectors from pump and solenoid.
7. Remove pump mounting bolts and pump.
8. Transfer isolators from the old pump to the new pump.
9. Install new AIR pump and bolts to vehicle. Tighten the bolts to 17 N.m (12.5 lb ft)
10. Route new hose assembly up between engine and fender. It should come up near the area between the battery and the coolant bottle.
11. Connect new inlet hose to pump inlet.
12. Connect old outlet hose to pump outlet.
13. Connect electrical connector to pump.
14. Connect electrical connector for solenoid to connector on the new hose assembly.
15. Connect the hose with the white nipple to the vacuum source hose.
16. Connect the remaining hose to the shut off valve.
17. Install shield covering AIR pump.
18. Lower vehicle.
19. Remove coolant reservoir nut nearest the battery.
20. Route new hose assembly between the battery and the coolant reservoir with the solenoid on top.
21. Install the solenoid bracket onto the coolant reservoir stud and reinstall the nut back into the vehicle.
22. Use a wire tie to keep the new hose assembly away from the engine. On four cylinder engines, tie to the AIR outlet hose. On six cylinder engines, tie to an available hole in the radiator fan shroud.
Two Thoughts ...
1.) Do you have an exterior Antenna? The Antenna needs a good ground at the bottom of the antenna to the body - As the vehicle is older, it may be loose, rusted, etc. I'd buy a new antenna , install it ensuring the inside/underside of the mounting hole is good an clean.
2.) Most radios "used to " have a "tuning" adjustment for AM. They used to be in the back - or perhaps if you pull off one of the knobs you will see a "pot" to turn. - check your manual. This adjustment helps with antenna impedenct matching between the radio and the Antenna ....
Good Luck !!
highway at 60mph with no a/c. I have a 2000 Sonoma 2.2L with auto trans.
I know it should get far better mileage; I had previously owned a '96 S10 2.2L and got over 27mpg with it!
I noticed that the other two problems like mine received no replies so, I might be wasting my time! Engine runs strong, no hesitation, etc. and truck has less than 63,000 miles...I bought it just 2 weeks ago and my mechanic is scratching his head.
What should I be looking for? Dealers just scratch their caps and shake their heads. What's wrong? Doe anyone have a suggestion where to begin looking?
lower levers have snapped off, the metal they used for attachment looks
like pretty cheap pot metal! any suggestions on repairing this or re-fabricating
would be appreciated. thankyou!
wire problem, pick up some resister plugs and get a good set of plug wires
and that should alieviate the problem.
sensor, good luck!
code # I pulled but ended up replacing throttle position sensor, which seems to
be a common problem on the 2.2L. the real weird thing is that I had a converter
problem also( sounds like we are in same boat, or atleast were)...good luck!
One way to be sure is under the hood is the emissions decal, all the emissions installed are listed there, take a look, you really got my curiosity up.
When I start my truck, if I drive right away without giving a 2 min. warm up time, at the first stop when I push in the clutch, the engine will surge out of control up and down. Eventually it will start to calm down and when the idle has reached the lowest point, it is good to drive again and wont happen until the next day.
I can avoid the problem by letting it warm up and idle down to the lowest point before driving. The problem is much worse in the winter with cooler temps.
Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Vernon
I took my truck to a mechanic and they tested some things with engine scanner. One problem they found was that when you accelerate, the engine timing was retarding instead of advancing. The shop told me I should replace the ignition module in the distributor which I did. This seemed to help a little but the problem still exists. I have replaced all of the standard maintenance parts (plugs, cap, rotor, wires, 02 sensor) and the catalytic converter only has 20K miles on it.
Does anyone have any suggestions on any other items to replace? Why would the AC cause my truck to make this problem worse? I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
like spitting, sputtering at take off or not, but I have a 2000 s10 2.2L, and
had to replace mine for that reason......good luck
dealer part.
they go into code history on their code reader. the computer does save the code even though ses goes out. the problem is most likely your tps(throttle position
sensor) common on these vehicles. good luck
on my 2000 they do). And most of the time they are set by the manufacture
( voltage) but if not you need a volt ohm meter and you'll need to know voltage
range for your truck( you may need to go online to get) most of the tps's have
a little room for adjustment, but I would just replace it with the new one incase
the old one starts acting up again, I found it very imbarrassing and a real pain in
the -ss! good luck hope this helped