Volkswagen Golf Care & Maintenance

lothal · December 2002

I am due up for my first 5000 mile service - anyone know what this usually costs? Should be a simple oil change according to the manual. The dealer where I have the appointment says that it will be $39.95 for just the oil change, and $200 for the regular service. What does regular service include?

8u6hfd · December 2002

http://www.vw.com/SP/SchedMaint.html

(it's in the owner's manual also, in the maintenance section)

for all engines: here's the 5,000 mile maintenance, the very first one.

Engine Oil Change

Engine Filter Change

Water Separator drain (TDI only)

$200 for regular service? That's some expensive oil change.

The $40 oil change, they will use 5w30 conventional oil

The $80 oil change, is using Syntec 5w40, "synthetic" oil

lothal · December 2002

Thanks for the info.

balticjetta18t · January 2003

I must disagree with kraut6. The 1.8t's and VR6's have a consistent oil change interval of 5k for engine life where the 1st and 2nd oil change for 2.0 and 1.9TDI are 5k, 10k, 20k, 30k etc. I checked with VW and Honda service depts which both explained that the oil put in at the factory is breakin oil with extra detergents and other ingredients used specifically so the engine does break in right thus changing it early is not needed. For the 2.0 and TDI engines to go every 10k after the initial 2 oil changes at 5 and 10k miles says alot. Even going synthetic too early is not letting the engine break in properly. I let my dealer do the free oil changes up to 20k where they used 5w40 castrol gtx. I just paid for my first oil change at 25k where they put in Castrol Syntec Blend 5w30 and a new filter for 29.95. I will see how my mileage goes as I just filled it up since the oil change. Other than that it is running very smooth and quiet. I can barely hear the motor at all when I am at idle.

zhd · January 2003

I have a 02 Golf GLS, 2.0L and manual shift. It has 13,700 miles. Yesterday morning (very cold) I started the car and heard a terrible crunking noise. Stopped it and checked the oil, it was almost a quarter below. This car lost a quarter every 5000 miles before the 10k service, now seems it's worse. I added the oil (Castrol GTX 5W30), the engine ran OK. This morning I pulled the stick again, the level was fine but there was a white substance (looked like precipitates) seen obviously in the black-colored oil on the stick. I called the dealer, they said it's OK just as usual. Do I need to worry or should I just drive it and hope the engine dies before the 5yr60k drivetrain warranty expires.

By the way, is the oil consumption on my car considered normal? According the manual, after the first 10k miles, this car needs oil change every 10k. Did they really mean it or it's just a bogus for sales and marketing of this car? Make no mistake, I love the performance of my Golf.

tw1 · February 2003

First off does anyone know if their VW extended warrenty is directly linked to the expensive dealer scheduled maintenance? Seems really fishy that a dealer is telling my girlfriend that she needs to have a 20,000 mile $500 check done to keep her $2000 extended warranty? Then again what the heck is a dealer charging for on a car with low miles an no issues? Granted the airfilters may need changing what is that a $5 part? Takes 2 minutes to replace. I had a Subaru dealer tell me that I had to have a $500 service done, after getting my car make and model he proceeded to tell me that they had to do stuff to parts that don't even exisit on any of their cars!

So my question is, outside of the normal, break pad check, airfilter change, possible fuel filter change, possibly afew other small items, what the heck is a dealer charging for on a virtually new car? The way I see it my subaru is in the same condition it would be in regardless of the Dealer checks and my wallet has $ in it!

vocus · February 2003

The dealer is a load of CRAP, as usual. You don't have to have your service done at the dealership to keep your basic factory warranty in effect, so why would you have to have your service done at the dealer to keep your extended warranty in effect? He is feeding you a line. Tell his manager what he said, and see how it goes over then.

tw1 · February 2003

VW can log another customer complaint to their list.
The reality of it is Dealerships push extended warrenties when you purchase your car, even go as far as to say that it is your only chance to get a warrenty (that specific warrenty, maybe). The reality of it is you can buy a warrenty for your car at anytime for just about any type of coverage for just about any price range your looking for. For some reason it takes someone ready to walk out of their office for them to admit this is the truth.

They tag on a nice percentage for their own profit then proceed to convince you that you need to go to all the major scheduled milege checks where they do minimal stuff to the car and charge you a very high fee. When asked what they do they give you a laundry list of things they may look at but, almost never need to be replaced unless your driving the Indy 500 everyday and you have a 2 milelong dirt driveway. I would call that misleading the customer and to some extent being very close to criminal when you factor in the cost incurred by the customer if they act on a bent or twisted truth presented by the dealer.

As for these $100 Plus check up fees on a vehicle with fairly low miles? If the engineering is so poor that a car driven 5 miles or less a day would actually require $500 worth of labor and parts at 20,000 miles then somebody needs to have a talk with the guys that designed these things we aren't in the 70's any more.

As for the flat fee. Perhaps the parent company should set the flat fee to an hour at the hourly rate, and make the dealer list all the parts and costs that really need attention after changing the oil and looking at the car, then let the customer make the call. I bet that laundry list of things they give us would be cut down to the basics real quick.

How often do you give someone $500 to look at something and maybe replace a part or two that probably costs less than $20, just so you can say you've had it looked at?
Get real.....
T

8u6hfd · February 2003

There is an existing problem with the 2.0L, which doesn't affect every motor...but unfortunately who have it.

There's a VW TSB that over a course of a few weeks the dealership will monitor the oil comsumption rate.

The interim fix for the oil burners is to rebuild and install thicker piston rings.

vocus · February 2003

Make sure the dealership doesn't purposely overfill the oil when doing the test, like they did to a co-worker of mine.

zhd · February 2003

8u6hfd and vocus,

I have not been here for a while. Thank you for the inputs.

Last week I went to the Chicago Autoshow and spoke with a VW engineer. He confirmed that the oil comsuption on my Golf was not normal, and I should call 800-DriveVW if the dealer refused to do anyting. I really love the performance and design of Golf, but I guess it's time for me to take some action to protect my investment.

blue2003 · March 2003

Hi,

The switch on the door doesn't work when opening the door of the Golf4 GLS 2001.
So, you won't be alerted when you leave your keys in, your lights on and the light won't come on when you open the door.
Where is that switch? I purchased a maintenance book, but I can't find it in there.
Is it hard to fix? Does the new part cost money, or is it just an adjustment to be made?

vocus · March 2003

You need a new door switch. I don't know where it is either, but look on the door frame at the lower part below where the striker holds the door closed.

nerak2 · March 2003

My 98 Passat GL with 98,000 is on the 6th tail light in 3 years, I have had it in the shop over and over for this issue - the new bulbs last about a week. any suggestions?

whcatto · March 2003

I got my 2003 Passat GLX one week ago. Today I washed it for the first time and notice water in the glove compartment, passenger floor and rear passenger floor. Anyone have any suggestion? The windows were up and the sun roof was closed.

Thanks

ttaylor3 · March 2003

I have a new Passat GL 4 cyl 5-speed manual. About 5-10 percent of the time, it simply will not start. When I turn the key, all dashboard power comes on, but there is no sound or crank whatsoever (i.e. the car acts as if the clutch is not pressed to the floor). If I leave the car alone for 30-60 minutes and return, it usually will start.

Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be?

I've taken it to the dealer twice, but they can't find anything wrong with it.

rdhd · March 2003

Hi,

I have a problem starting my 2003 Jetta VR6. It happens after the car has been sitting overnight. But not every time. I turn the key and nothing really happens. The lights come on and there is a faint sound like clicking. I try this several times and in about 5 minutes or so the car will start. I have asked the dealer about it they have no explanation. They checked the computer logs in the car- no record of the events are recorded. Also, the dealership kept the car overnight and said it did not happen. I am about to take it in again as it is happening more and more frequently. Also the car is running rough the car vibrates more than it did when I first bought the car in December. Not a dependable car so far.

vocus · March 2003

Clicking when starting means a bad alternator. I went through 6 of them on an un-named GM product, that was always the symptom...

hodala · April 2003

Hi, I have a 2001 Passat. I'm just wondering if there is any way to turn the daylight function off because my car's headlight bulbs were burned out so many times already. I have called VW dealer and they said they are not allowed to disable it. So does anyone know how to disable the daylight function? Thanks.

8u6hfd · April 2003

At the headlight switch:

Push switch in and turn to the right.

Remove switch and remove connector

Locate "TFL" pin. Cover that pin with some electrical tape.

Reinstall.

libsta · April 2003

libsta · April 2003

my 96 jetta has been acting sluggish while in 2nd and 3rd gear...kinda like it has fur balls. I had the fuel filter changed, wires, plugs and cap replaced. Still doing it, but the engine light finally went out. So, could it be the timing belt is stretched and needs replacing?

wdubs · April 2003

This weekend I tried to do the first oil change on my 2003 VW Passat 1.8T and was unable to find the oil pan or the oil drain plug. Does anyone know where I can find this? There is a big plastic cover under the car. It covers approximately half of the engine. I suspect that it might be under there but don't want to remove it unless it is necessary. I've done oil changes on our VW Cabrio and many other vehicles and have never had a problem finding the oil drain plug. Please help! Thanks!

ruking1 · April 2003

#75

The oil drain plug bolt is under the plastic cover. I am not sure of your model but on the Jetta there are 11 bolts or so to undo. I have a TDI so the oil filter canister has to be opened and a new insert oil filter installed. I also have to remove the top plastic engine cover. Once the cover/covers are removed it is very very easy.

cptplt · April 2003

This is slightly OT but I am buying a Winnebago Rialta which is built off a VW van chassis with a VR6 engine. What sort of problems have people had with the VR6??

bdevil · May 2003

I recently purchased a 2001 New Passat with the 2.8 six and the 5-speed manual transmission. The maintenance schedule in the owners manual calls for replacing the brake fluid every two years, so I'm due. I have a power bleeder and have done this on other cars, but never one with a hydraulic clutch. I assume I also need to bleed fluid at the hydraulic clutch as well as each wheel cylinder to get all the old fluid flushed. Is this correct? Does anyone know where the bleeder valve is located on the clutch? Thanks for any help and advice.

abriggs77 · June 2003

Hi,

Just bought a certified pre-owned Jetta. Woo-hoo its pretty sweet! Wanted to know what is the best type of oil for the car, synthetic or regular? I recently read that synthetic oil may accelerate the aging process of a new car because it seeps into the metal parts and softens the metal? Is this true? This is the first negative I've read about synthetics.
Also, having your car serviced at the dealership versus doing it yourself and/or taking it to a less expensive mechanic. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help.
Andy

david4862 · September 2003

Hi Gang,
I hope I am posting this question in the right
chat room.I drive approximately 5-6k miles a year.It will take roughly 3-4 years to reach the
2ok interval, where some services are recommneded. Does it make sense to just do oil
changes and tire rotations in the interim?
What should drivers do,who put low mileage on
their autos? Just one last thing,why are the
spark plugs changed at 105k; and no recommendatio
is made to change the tranny or coolant (2001 vw passat) Thanks a lot,
David

lamar5 · October 2003

I have a 2001 new passat glx. i just purchased a cd changer (factory) that came from a 2001 jetta and when i put it in the trunk i get no power.

I know this cd changer works because i tried it in the trunk of a 99 passat wagon and the cardtridge came out with no problem. Any ideas on what may be the problem.

Also my gas gauge seems to not be acurate. how can it say 1/2 tank when i just filled it up today and only drove 66 mi.

mohatu · November 2003

Hi,

Could please someone clarify? The maintenance booklet first states timing belt replacement at 40K miles and then it is mentioned every 20K thereafter. Kinda makes little sense to me. I thought this (pricy) replacement is supposed to be done about every 60-65K miles. Any ideas?

Unfortunately, Edmunds' maintenance schedule tool isn't helpful either since it never mentions timing belt replacement at all. I looked through all service points from 40K up to 120K. This procedure is never on the list. Same about tire rotation, BTW, that I guess is supposed to be done every 10K. Weird. Not listing these quite important procedures is misleading and pretty much reduces the value of the tool (IMHO).

Kirstie_H · November 2003

mohatu, I just checked the maintenance guide. Check timing belt is on the list for the 40,000 mile service. Under the 60,000 mile service, the recommendation is to change the timing belt. I think this link will take you to the 60K schedule.

To talk more about the Passat, please visit one of our active discussions on this vehicle. You can locate them using the make/model drop-down menus at the left. Thanks!

kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host

mohatu · November 2003

altair4 · November 2003

Others have had additional service completed while having the timing belt done...frequently the water pump and belt tensioner are changed. You save the labor, since doing this service requires pulling the front bumper to make room for the work.

cmcvw · November 2003

I own a 2000 Jetta GLS, with the standard engine. I am at 99K now, so I made an appointment at the local VW dealer to have my 100K check-up, in hopes of going over everything to make sure there are no problems before my 10yr/100K mile power-train warranty is over. They told me it would cost $400?! Is this normal? Has anyone else had this done?! I mean, I know they check and change multiple things, but they only replace a few filters and the spark plugs. Although I haven't had any major problems, I feel like this car has been so expensive to upkeep. Is this price normal/expected?

sclark900 · December 2003

Hey there folks. I just brought my newly purchased '01 eurovan in to the local dealership for it's 25k oil change. I just about died when I got the bill... $69 for an oil change! They charged 33 for labor, 16 for the filter, 12 for the oil (at 2/quart), couple bucks for a filter gasket, and a 7% mandatory charge on labor for "misc shop supplies". Now... I know the Eurovan's are a quirky beast and might be a little more tricky than the typical oil change, but this just seems crazy! I'm curious to know where other Euro and/or VR6 owners are taking their rigs for oil changes and if I'm in the typical cost range at the dealer. I hesitate to take it to a quick lube, but really don't know specifically if there would be a true negative for doing so, but who knows. Any thoughts/comments?

ruking1 · December 2003

Yes that 400 dollar bill sound "normal" You might be able to bring it down somewhat by buying correct parts and fluids and giving them to the shop to change out. It is the labor rate that takes the biggest chunk out of the 400 dollar bill. Shop rates in this neck of the woods is like 90 per hour, so I am swagging 3-4 hrs for labor. plus parts retail profit.

99jetta · May 2004

I just had to replace the plug wires, cap and rotor on my 99 Jetta and it only has 71K miles on it. They were so bad that the car actually wouldn't run. I was under the impression that wires should last around 100K. I think the recommendation is to replace at 60K but as a single mom, if it ain't broke I can't fix it. Anyone have any advice on this? Is there anything else that should be done at this mileage to prevent another break down? (I lost my owners manual). Thanks!

600kgolfgt · May 2004

On 2001.5 Passats, the timing belt should last between 90K - 105K. When your mileage gets in that range, it's a good time to replace the timing belt (also a good time to replace all the belts as well).

With the exception of diesel-powered cars (belt change recommended every 60K miles), changing the timing belt before the aformentioned mileage intervals is a waste of money, from my experience (I've owned 4 VWs now).

Hope this helps...

cptplt · September 2004

does anyone know the exact specs for an 02? I believe its a 16 x7in , whats the offset?
Is any VW 16 x7 in wheel likely to fit??

cptplt · September 2004

I guess no one knows, including VW customer care who I have spoken to twice!! Amazing!

martyb1 · November 2004

Hey I've got a problem with my glowplugs but don't know much about them other than where they are. My kinda u shaped metal piece melted within that clear cap to the back of the engine and my CEL is on but I'm unsure why it melted, is it because I have a glowplug thats gone or is it a separate problem? I tried to replace it but it smoked up and blew again, thats why I know there is a problem! One things for sure, the car won't start when it get to -10degrees Centigrade! I just want to restore this problem so I can get back to a nice 50 mpg on the car. Its has 218 000 kms 98 TDI, love the car!

blamb2 · December 2004

I had a "coolant migration" problem diagnosed by the dealership. The symptoms were that the electrical system was behaving intermittently problematic and irregularly (i.e. ARS light coming on - then going out; EPC light coming on - then going out; engine light coming on - then going out) I took the car to the dealership immediately. I was told that it was "coolant migration" and that this is a design defect and VW is paying for the repair. I was further told that the coolant had come into contact with the temperture sensor contacts and traveled the wires to destroy the entire electrical system.

The entire wiring harness had to be replaced. (2 weeks repair.) Upon replacing the wiring harness and before returning the car to me, i was informed that the catalytic converter melted on the test drive, that the O2 sensors are burned out, and that all the sparkplugs were toast. This sounds very bad to me. They explained that upon testing the car, the computer was sending a 80% fuel /20% air mixture to to the engine, causing engine to flood and sending a ton of fuel to the catalytic converter. Thus explaining the spark plug and catalytic converter problem. The repair for this is to replace the sparks, the catalytic converter and the O2 sensors. In the process they broke and air return nipple which is now being replaced.

1. Is this believeable? Do the explanation fit the problem?

2. What is going on here?

3. How can i be sure that they haven't destroyed my car? I am worried that the engine, valves, pistons, cylinders, etc. have all been compromised.

HELP.

aperkin2 · January 2005

Do you know if I can use an extended timing belt on my vehicle and if so can you provide me some information on what belt can be used? Thank you.

kiacook · March 2005

Hi, I'm thinking of buying a 99 Passat. On my old Geo Prizm I could take it to any shop for oil changes and maintenance. A friend told me I would have to take a VW to a dealership. Is that true? If so, I'm reluctant to buy one because maintenance would be much more expensive.
Thanks!

theseus · March 2005

I bought a used 99 Passat 20v turbo 1.8 that didn't come with an owner's manual. I've drained the transmission fluid but I can't figure out where to add it. Can anyone explain it?

Riviera · March 2005

Hello All: Looking for some info. Am considering diy on my 1999 Passat rear pads (no pulsing or scraping sounds on the rotors so I am only doing pads). You seem to know about brakes so I would like to ask you a few questions if you don't mind.
Do you know the correct size of the allen wrench and crescent wrench needed to do the job?
Is it really necessary to replace the bolts? Haynes manual says yes.
Also, Haynes says you can retract the pistons using "a pair of needle nose pliers" but they don't illustrate that. Is it necessary to apply pressure while you rotate the piston or does it "screw" itself back?
I have done disc brakes on a 1990 buick and replaced one caliper on a saab. How good do you have to be to do this job and get the complex parking brake adjustment right?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Larry Lapham laurencelapham@aol.com

donshar · March 2005

I tried to replace the plugs on a 1995 Jetta yesterday and found that 2 of the plugs were not accessible and 2 of them barely accessible. What items need to be removed in order to change the plugs on a Jetta?

600kgolfgt · March 2005

You can access the other two spark plugs by either 1)using a swivel socket attachment or 2) removing the upper section of the intake manifold

foreonthetee · March 2005

OK....I'm approaching 40k on my '03 Jetta, 1.8T, Automatic. I'm loving the car, but I have some complaints.

Problems: I've had it in the shop for a fallen power window, a brake sensor that clogged with ice, a fallen gas tank door button (girlfriend pushed LIGHTLY instead of pulling up the first time she filled it up). Nothing major, but those are annoying reasons to sit in the shop.

Problem: When I start the car after it's sat for a few hours, it's sluggish for about the first 2000 feet I drive. If I'm in my space and back out, sometimes it has even shut off on me. Any ideas as to what this could be?

Complaint: This isn't having to do with the problems. Their maintenance schedule is completely insane. Approaching 40k, I've already been warned that the 40k service is going to run me about $400. I've tried to get things done at other shops, but all are the same or more expensive than the dealer. So, after that service, I will have put about $1000 into maintenance for just 1 1/2 years. My girlfriend's Honda Civic asks for nothing more than tire rotations and oil changes for 100k, and she gets those for free through her dealer. So, I'm inches away from trading.

I love the car, but it's costing way to much to keep maintained and it has an annoying problem (I'm mentioning the problem on Saturday.)

donshar · March 2005

What is involved in removing the upper section of the intake manifold?

Volkswagen Golf Care & Maintenance

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Volkswagen Golf Care &amp; Maintenance

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Volkswagen Golf Care & Maintenance