Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

mp5freak · January 2002

Thanks for the update! Quickly...

My windows don't rattle...
My gf always starts her car by turning the key on 2 or 3 clicks until some of the warning light go off. When I got my new car, she convinced me to do the same. So I always do that, and I still have the problem. Really wierd. I guess as long as it starts it starts. ON a side note, I put Mobil 1 synthetic in there last night for the winter months, so I'll see if that seems to help the cold starts. I don't expect to see any difference, but I'm hoping it will help keep the engine in tip-top shape.

Anyway, its probably just the cold causing the rattles, except for that passenger door thing. I'll remove my door panels in the spring to see what I find...

Douglam - what kind of speakers did you put in? Did you keep the stock head unit? What were the results?

douglam · January 2002

Really? so by turning your car keys all the way for a few seconds before cranking doesn't help? Hmm, that's strange, because about a week ago, the temps were in the single digits (F) and I didn't encounter any problems. But I'm sure if you switch to synthetic, it will definitely help during cold starts.

Oh, I put in Polk speakers in all the doors. EX572a's in front and EX602a's in the rear. The stock head unit is still on. The results are not that impressive (as I expected) because the stock head unit doesn't have much driving power (my guess it's like 4x15w RMS). However, the highs are definitely clearer now. The bass is lower, but there's no 'punch' to it.

Since I still have my aftermarket radio from my previous Civic, I was going to install it in my P5 anyway. I'm sure the results will be much better after everything is done.

So for those who are going to upgrade their speakers ONLY, don't spend too much on them, and make sure that the speakers can match your low power stock head unit. With proper tweaking of the 3 band equalizer, you can get pretty 'decent' music from upgraded speakers.

Hope this helps...

inarush · January 2002

Have owned my Protege 5 for six months and the rattles inside the cabin have been noticeable since the first month.
I have taken it to the dealership numerous times. The only one they've been able to fix is the front dome light rattle. I was there when they fixed it and all they did is take it a part and put back together again.
I still have all the other rattles that have been mentioned in other posts.
Good LUck to anyone who can get these resolved!!

mazdafun · January 2002

If they're in your door panels, you can try pulling around the edges to see if any are loose. The edges are held to the door with plastic buttons. If an edge is loose, the button is either no pushed into the door (for which you just shove the panel against the door until you feel a snap), the button is in the door, but isn't correctly snapped into the panel (hmm, you have to remove the panel to put the button in place...see previous posts about removing the panel to replace the speakers) or the button is just missing.

mazdafun · January 2002

I have a '99 sedan, so the head unit's different. However, I replaced all 4 stock speakers with better Pioneers (TS-A6999 and TS-A6865 (I think)). The sound was improved a lot. The bass is punchier and mid-ranges and high-end are much clearer too. These speakers are rated a bit more sensitive than other comparable speakers, and the bottom power range spec was lower too (2W v. 4W RMS, I think). The stock speakers' magnets are kind of puny. I think I added at least 3lbs to my car with the upgrade.

elec3 · January 2002

When I installed a sub in my Pro5, I had to get access to the rear speakers for signal input since I couldn't get what I needed straight off of the head unit. This gave me a chance to check out the speakers (because I had to literally cut and splice the sub wiring into the factory wiring to the speakers) and it occurred to me that these were pretty wimpy speaks. They have rather thin paper cones and way small (light) magnets compared to "good" aftermarket speakers. Pioneer is generally a good brand in car audio, but it was apparent to me that the speakers that come with the Pro5 were near the very bottom of Pioneer's line. Still I'd rather have those than some no-name stuff.

As an aside, my brother drives a 2000 626 and it comes with an audio system which I think is Bose and the same one they were putting in Miatas for a while (I think). It is far superior to that of the Protege and, as much as I dislike Bose, it's a very competent sounding car audio system. Every time I get into my Protege after listening to some quality audio (car or home), I'm always struck by just how dark and a little murky the Pro's sound system is. I get used to it but it's truly a dark and recessed sound and nothing like the sparkle and shimmer I've come to love from audiophile-grade headphones. I can't complain about bass though because my sub took care of that

douglam · January 2002

a joke. Actually, I was quite surprised that those crappy speakers actually produced music!

The speaker wires are dental-floss thin too! so again, don't overspend on speakers unless you're going all out for a full upgrade. Pioneers are easy to drive speakers and they go well with many head units and they are reasonably priced. My Polks require higher power.

Oh, as an update, I would highly recommend people who are changing their speakers to add in some extra insulation in the door panels. Now there are no noise whatsoever coming from the doors! even road noise! now i can only hear noise from the window upwards. The music seems to sound better also

And one more thing. The rattling noise coming from the door might be caused by the speaker harness that is just floating inside the door . Just to be sure, I wrapped a piece of foam around the harness before placing the speaker in (yeah, i reused the harness with my new speakers).

mp5freak · January 2002

Although this conversation is probably best for the regular Pro5 board and not the problem board, I will continue...

The stock head unit will not put out anywhere near 15W RMS. I'm guessing 15W peak power. A good aftermarket head unit only produces 20-22W RMS, and the difference between 15 and 20 RMS wouldn't be that noticable. My infinity speakers need a 7W RMS minimum, and I'm guessing that this head unit is just barely meeting that requirement because the sound is still fairly quiet even at with the volume turned up to half. I'm guessing that most of you who haven't replaced their speakers or head unit would find the sound fairly loud at half sound level...

I'm going to wait until the harnesses become available...supposedly in January according to Best Kits. Metra still has no idea. Didn't hear back from Schosche (sp?). Then I'll have plenty of power for my Infinitys and my next project become a small sub setup....

91miatadriver · January 2002

I purchased a 2001 Protoge CD player on E-bay, and it didn't come w/a wiring harness. I had never hear of "Best Kits" wiring harnesses, but mp5freak's mention of Best Kits in item #60 in this discussion allowed me to contact Best Kits and discover they now have the harness available. It is part number BHA7902 and cost $13.95. It's not listed under the 2001 Protoge on Best Kits' web site, but they indicate they just developed it, and it's the right harness. I'm putting the 2001 Protoge CD player in my 91 Miata and could not have done it without the tip from this site. Thanks for the tip mp5freak!

fs8gbe · February 2002

have had my P5 since oct 15th 2001, almost at 8,000 miles (24 miles when i got it) and have had no probs, no complaints. i don't even mind the wind noises either, i get no rattling, and a fairly smooth ride (but not as smooth as other sedans). if anyone is reading this and is trying to decide, go for it. this is one fun fun beautiful car.

jiggerz201 · February 2002

I've taken the p5 for a couple of test drives now and I've noticed that when you accelerate rapidly in gear 2,3,or 4 the shifter will move further in the gear slot. Has anyone else noticed this?

I am trying to decide between the Toyota Matrix and the Protege 5. Here is how I am comparing them, add any comments if you like.
Protege5- better handling, cheaper, better seats, been on the market for more time, looks better.
Matrix-better cargo area, Toyota brand quality, better stature or presence, better standard features (adjustable intermittent wipers, better door lock system, air filter).
Any thoughts? I am leaning towards the Protege5 today, mainly because of the price but it only $1000 difference.

rbleland · February 2002

....in previous discussions in this topic and also under "P5 vs. Matrix" topic under this same "hatchbacks" section. Many of us are going thru the same dilemma as you are. The consensus seems to be get the P5 if handling, sportier feel and torquier engine are your priorities; get the Matrix if space, versatility, Toyota re-sale/quality does it for you. Depends on your age, driving style and feelings about how each of them looks. They are very close money-wise (in Canada at least). Have fun!!!

brickey · March 2002

Since I've had my P5 I have had a whistling noise coming from the from the front (I thought the windshield) at about 65 mph. I also have a sort of roaring noise comng from the rear (like when a rear wheel drive rearend would start to get worn out). The dealer checked it out and attributed both noises to the roof rack. Said they took it off and the noises stopped. Apparently Mazda is aware of this and is redesigning the roof rack. I wouldn't hold my breath though.

Some of you have removed the roof rack. Is it pretty simple? Just unbolt and bolt those flat covers back in their place?

Rob

coznefx · March 2002

I just got my P5 about three weeks ago. While my decision to purchase the vehicle was primarily based on aesthetics, CR's big thumbs-up didn't hurt either.

While overall I'm pretty happy with the car, there are two issues that are causing me some concern:

1. The engine rattle when the car is cold. Obviously this is a very common problem, I noticed it the second day I had the car, and it took 2 dealers and a call to Mazda to finally unearth a technical bulletin that explains that Mazda "believes" (!) the problem is "the result of the timing between VTCS plates 'opening' and the ignition spark advance command", and is no cause for concern. Even more disconcerting is the fact that this problem dates back to the 2001 Proteges and Mazda has yet to address a solution. I recently read a post that said Mazda was close to devising an ECU reprogram that would solve the annoying problem. Any insight would be appreciated.

2. My fuel economy leaves much to be desired. Granted, the car is an automatic and I primarily do city driving, but 20-21 mpg is far from acceptable--with numbers like this, I might as well own a Yukon. Again, I read a post that said the problem may be due to the oxygen sensor, either a faulty connection or the unit itself.

On the plus side, I've yet to experience many of the interior rattles others have noticed. A common complaint is a rattle coming from the passenger door or glove area. I had a similar problem initially. After sniffing around a bit I discovered a small square panel just below the lower vent on the passenger side of the center console. The piece sits in there pretty loose, so I pulled the panel out until it sits on top of the adjacent panel and that seemed to do the trick, no more rattle.

cpa222 · March 2002

My mileage was around 24 in town on the first few tanks then it dropped to around 17. I took it in to the dealer, they put it on the computer and came back with nothing. However, when I picked it up, all the power that I had not noticed disappearing, was back. Also the mpg was back to 24. The only thing that the shop & I can think of was something was loose and in their checking, they tightened it. You might want to have your dealer check yours.

coznefx · March 2002

Thanks cpa...

I'm going to try a few more tanks of gas. Strangely, Mazda suggests that you use the lowest octane recommended for the car, which in this case is 87. We'll see if that helps.

On the engine rattle front, I have some very reassuring news. I just got off the phone with Mazda North America and a fix is indeed on the way. By mid-March dealers should have an ECU reprogram that will solve the problem.

shrique · March 2002

I'll be lining up for that one.

ashutoshsm · March 2002

I wonder how many centuries of drivers and vehicle-owners have been misled by the octane game!

Once again - use ONLY the recommended octane fuel, not higher, not lower! Both will affect the way your car performs (without going into details!)

bluong1 · March 2002

is that mean I can use "any" kind of gas? as the user manual states:

"Recommended gas: 87 or *HIGHER* ((R+M)/2 method)"

mdaffron · March 2002

When you use an octane higher than the minimum recommended octane for an extended period of time, you risk engine damage (and I'm talking long-term here, OK?). I've been dealing with the same Mazda dealer for 11 years now, and have become quite good friends with a couple of their mechanics. One once told me the reason ... I can't remember all the details, but it has to do with the higher temperature at which higher-octane gas burns, and engine compression. I saw him when I took delivery of my 2000 ES, which also instructs you to use 87 minimum, and I asked him. He said to use NOTHING but 87. So that's what I've done. In 33,500 miles I have had no problems with the car at all, including no engine pings, knocks or anything else. I use Amoco, Texaco and Citgo 87-octane regular unleaded.

FWIW --

Meade

mdaffron · March 2002

You're welcome! ;-)

Meade

http://theserviceadvisor.com/octane.htm

shrique · March 2002

When do you change to synthetic for the first time. My p5 says I change the initial oil at 5k. I would like ot swtich to synthetic for this car. How many miles should I go before I change out the oil?

mdaffron · March 2002

... unless you go way over the recommended interval! Do it now if you want -- the cleaner the engine, the better, right?

Meade

vocus · March 2002

I switched to synthetic at 7500 miles (my second oil change) in my 2001 Protege ES 2.0 automatic. I could not tell the difference. I was mad that I did, because I was told once I switched to syn, I would not switch back. It was a waste of money to me though.

shrique · March 2002

The main reason I want to switch is not because it's "slippery" but because it's better for the engine in cold climates. Say in Minnesota where I live. When it get's REALLY cold (say like in Calgary today) it reduces wear and tear during a cold start. Other than that I could care less. (GRIN)

Sporin · March 2002

You can switch back and forth between dino and synth with no problems.* They are fully compatible.

* Note: In VERY old cars, swtiching from dino to synth can uncover leaks that the dino kept plugged.

xeones · March 2002

It is absolutely true that you stick to the recommended octane fuel from a high quality company.

Octane is not an ingredient in gas but a measure of performance. the higher the octane the higher the temperature at which the gas will self-ignite.

Higher compression engines require higher octane because higher compression equals greater temperature...if you use lower then recommended octane you get premature ignition or "knocking"

compression ratio is one of the ways to get more HP out of engines of similar size... the high output honda engines such as in Civic Si have higher compression ratios and thus require premium gas.

save your money and just buy 87 octane.

knight_rider · March 2002

Hi all!

I'm a spanking new owner of the protege5 and also new to the world of manual shifting. I'm wondering if anyone could inform me of the optimal speeds for shifting into the various gears?

The owner's manual doesn't seem to detail the speed ranges, so I'm hoping fellow p5 owners can help me out with their experiences. Thanks!

riopelle · March 2002

Hi and welcome to P5 ownership. Rather than this discussion board, I suggest you might want to go to the regular P5 board since shift speeds isn't a "problem". I think you'll find that P5 owners are nice people but fast drivers! There's lots of happy P5 owners who will answer your question, but my take is:

Shift speeds are almost completely subjective. When the engine is cold, one need to be gentle so shift at maybe 2,400 or so rpm. Once the engine has warmed up, I will shift in the low 3,000s if I have company in the car and have to act respectable, or closer to 4,500 to 5,000 rpm if I am alone and out having fun. The engine zooms to 4,000 rpm with ease. I go to the redline occasionally now that the engine has broken in (I have 8,000 miles on it).

knight_rider · March 2002

I didn't realize that there was another P5 board, I'm new to the site. I will post message over there, thanks again!

starsky · March 2002

Hi everyone,

I purchased a mica blue protege5 in the middle of February. Now that the weather has warmed up, I washed and waxed my car today. I noticed that the hood and roof feel as smooth as glass to the touch, but the sides of the car don't have the same feel - they are almost a little rough and have considerable more friction as you move your hand across them.

Is it possible that there is a consistency problem with the clear coat on my car? Has anyone else noticed this with their paint job?

Thanks!

protege_fan · April 2002

The sides will get more road grime on them due to your tires spitting crud up onto it. I don't think that there's a problem with the paint. If you want to get that silky smooth feel back, I suggest a good wash, then clay bar, then wax for your P5.

cbmorton · April 2002

My silver P5 is the same way -- very smooth in some places and relatively rough in others. Nothing to do with road grime, etc. I'm no paint expert but it seems like the clearcoat is unevenly applied. Visually I can't detect a difference but as you say, when you're waxing it and running your fingers across the surface, it's easy to tell where the rougher parts are. My previous car ('00 VW) also had this rough/smooth paint situation going on so I've always assumed it to be just a pitfall of the paint process they use these days.

protege_fan · April 2002

The paint on the lower side body panels feel rougher because they try to protect that area against rocks, etc.

cbmorton · April 2002

That's not really it either. The rougher parts are too randomly located. On my P5 the lower doors are very smooth, and the roughest part is just below the passenger-side D-pillar. Move off that area with your hand and it's back to smooth again. Definitely a factory flaw, but not something I'd find worth complaining about.

protege_fan · April 2002

That does sound odd...IMO, I'd get it looked at.

coznefx · April 2002

I've got bubbles in my clear in a small area on the hatch. It's not a great paint job, seems upon close inspection like the whole surface borders on orange peel. If it were a BMW I'd scream bloody murder, but for what I paid, I'm willing to ignore it.

dmcl1 · April 2002

I got a P5 in late February and I really like it, so I was quite disturbed to find a couple dozen small chips out of the paint on the hood when I gave it it's first wash last weekend. The dealer says this is quite normal given all the sand/stones on the Montreal roads, but this seems quite excessive to me.

Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know if Mazda paint is more delicate in general than other makes? Or am I just being overly sensitive to my car not being new anymore?

Thank-you for your input.

protege_fan · April 2002

Don't get me started...
I've got a black mica '01 LX 2.0 5-spd. I can't count the number of chips on my hood. I am going to have to go nuts with the touch-up paint when I wash it next.

I've had my car since June 27th, 2001. I was freaked when I saw my first paint chip...now there are so many!

I don't think it's a Mazda paint thing. Cities in Western Canada (and the highways) use a lot of gravel in the winter...makes it hell on the paint.

I don't really want to put a hood deflector on, but it looks like I may have to

mazdafun · April 2002

They have two thicknesses, the thicker one for headlamp assemblies, the thinner one for hood, fenders, door handle recesses, side mirror housings etc. 0.080in thick for the headlamp material, 0.040in thick for the other.

I've had a set on my '99LX since, well, '99. Not a chip in them. Too bad they didn't offer the full front-end protection set (I got mine from Stongard, which offers the kit for 3rd gen Pros and P5s). The headlamp ones were easy to put on. I'd look around for an experienced professional detailer to put on the front-end kit.

The downside, as with all protectors is that dirt accumulates around the edges. The upside is dirt can't get underneath it. It's also transparent, and hasn't yellowed from UV exposure as far as I can tell. They claim the headlamp material will take the impact of a 1in round stone at 100mph (at least that's what one installer claimed on last week's Motorweek episode).

protege_fan · April 2002

I looked into it when I first got my Pro...IIRC, it was fairly expensive at the one company I asked. I think it's a great alternative to a large hood deflector though.

kizeh · April 2002

I haven't noticed any paint problems. The plastic nose has a few love-bug marks that I haven't been able to get off, and a few dings from rocks or whatnot. They're more than chips, though, and have actually damaged the plastic a little. Beyond that there are no chips, bubbles or roughness in the clear coat anywhere that I can find. This is on a silver Pro5.

On the same topic, can anyone recommend a way to get wax off the roof rack plastic? I accidentally got a few swipes of wax on some of the plastic parts, and it's a little bit of an eyesore, but very hard to get off.

mazdafun · April 2002

or some other degreasing type cleaner.

protege_fan · April 2002

Get this...I've read if you put peanut butter on the part that's been waxed, let it sit for a bit, then wipe it off, it's supposed to get all of that residue off! Never tried it, but many Zaino zealots swear by it.

Also, Mother's makes a product called "Back to Black" that has worked for me before. I've also read that a regular eraser (yes, like on a pencil) will work. Oh, bug and tar remover works too....so take your pick

douglam · April 2002

A old toothbrush works like a charm to remove wax from plastic (best to let the wax dry). Give it a try!

protege_fan · April 2002

I don't think that will work for the wax that "stains" the plastic...it's like the wax becomes "ingrained" with the plastic. Unsightly and hard to remove

lngtonge18 · April 2002

Thanks guys for the tips!!!! I used a white eraser on the unsightly wax buildup on my Hyundai Accent's rear window weatherstriping and it worked!!! It literally erased away! I've been dying to know what would get rid of it since my car is black and the white really stood out. Thanks again.

protege_fan · April 2002

Glad something I told somebody actually worked for once

mustang87 · April 2002

sounds like you wanted him to check first if it works or not before you did it on your car

protege_fan · April 2002

The peanut butter maybe....but I WAS going to try the eraser before...I just hadn't gotten around to it yet!

Mazda Protege5 Maintenance and Repair

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