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Chevrolet C6 Corvette
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Comments
The my knowledge the C6 corvette battery is the regular 12V lead acid type and not the gel or deep cycle kind of.
If a battery takes 'no charge' or takes a high charge and never tapers down to a lower amperage charge - both these mean the battery is a goner and will never recharge and perform adequately.
On the Corvette, the charger switches to desulfating mode, i.e. the charger green light blinking instead of steady. The % charged light don't get past 15.The desulfation rans up to five to six hours.
I am driving the vette and the battery is fine.
The Bose units in my '01 and '03 Z06's were horrible!
Recently, I picked up my '08 coupe and have been very impressed with the Bose unit in this car. Night and day between the older units and this one. Have no idea what they did, nor have I made any attempt to verify changes but it is dramatic.
Who knows, maybe GM listened to all the complaints about the old units and acted on the issue.
Or should I just let the car stand on its tires for the whole 1/2 year?
Also, anything else to do other than disconnect the battery? Any special trick due to the FOB feature?
thanks much!
The car can also be supported on the side rails. There is an area where the body color plastic does not wrap under the car, jack stands can be placed there. Do not place jacks or stands on the wrapped around plastic, the plastic will break, and this is a very expensive repair.
The battery should not be allowed to freeze. If you pull it out and place in on a concrete floor, it will discharge in 6 months.
You can buy trickle charger that you can leave connected all the time to the battery. This is possibly the best thing to do. Removing a cable should be done even if there is a trickle charger used.
When you hook the battey back up, the windows must be re-indexed. Read your manual for this.
Add fuel stabilizer to the gas tank and run the motor for a couple minutes before the final shutdown.
Change the oil just before shutting it down.
I've never actually done this, so I really don't know what works. The above is just some of the things I've seen discussed.
You could always lend the car to me and I'll make sure it gets driven, washed, & driven some more:) :P
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I have a 2007 C6 with Z51 pkg and 6 speed manual. I'm having two non-consistent problems, one sounds a little like your gear/bearing noise.
1) When I first start-up the car, sometimes I hear a tapping noise and think it might be the lifters.
2) After backing up, I shift into first and after a few hundred feet, I sometimes get a very loud metal-on-metal grinding noise. It kind of sounds and feels like a bicycle chain slipping and clanking against a metal shield. The noise lasts for a few seconds, it also feels like the car hesitates and then catches and moves forward. This doesn't always happen.
Naturally I cannot duplicate these problems when the car is at the dealers!
BillMLB
The second one sounds like the ABS system initializing.
I don't drive mine very often, and get lifter noise for a couple of seconds after startup.
And I don't worry about it.
Thanks for taking the time to reply! I don't drive my car very often either and you may be right!
BillMLB
I seem to remember reading about some similar posts describing similar noises, but I can't find them at the moment. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet. I plan to address it with them at the time of the first oil change later this summer, unless this is a problem that requires more immediate attention.
Does this sound like a problem developing within the rear differential ?
Is there a TSB describing such a noise ?
What's the fix ?
IF turning, it's probably a noisy rear differential. Chevy limited slip differentials have made noise for many, many years. The noise in the Corvettes seems to become worse, from what I've read, over the last few years. Chevy have been changing the fluid and additive over the last couple of years to find something that will resist the noise. They have again come out with a new fluid in the last few months, which seems to be helping many people.
If you dealer has sold many Corvettes, the service department should be well aware of noisy rear diffs. They have TSBs to look at which should give them the newest fluid to use.
A noisy diff does not harm much. As you drive the car, and do not make many sharp turns, the lubricating fluid is forced out of the friction plates in the diff. The dry plates then make noise when the car is turned sharply. If you would take the car to any empty lot and drive in tight circles or figure 8's for about 8 loops, you will open up the plates and fluid will get in there and the noise will stop. For a while at least.
ONLY while turning sharply. For example, turning into a parking spot or backing onto the street from my driveway. ONLY when steering wheel fully "cranked" to either side. NO noise when driving in a straight line.
I haven't driven the car aggressively. Mostly, a weekend cruiser and summer evening driving with the wife. Typically the only "sharp" turns are at less than 15mph.
The dealer where the service will be performed is different than where I purchased the car, but they do have the most experience in our metro area
( typically have 5 to 10 new vettes and 3 or 4 used ones on their lot at any given time). So, taking your advice I will assume that they know how to check for TSBs and will be willing to change the fluid, since it is under warranty.
Thanks for your advice. I'll try the "tight circles in a parking lot" routine and see if that helps too.
front tire noise.....
Because of the alignment and the super wide tires, a C6 Corvette turned at full lock, moving slowly, will actually scrub (slide) the front tires. And you will be able to hear this. Completely normal, nothing to worry about, and nothing can or should be done about this.
I think you were "spot on" when you described the situation with the limited slip diff. I'll report back after a few "tight circles" in the parking lot and see if that temporarily cures the noise.
thanks again for your input.
After several "figure 8s" in a local parking lot, the noise went away..............................until it was parked for a few days. Then I heard the same thing when pulling into a parking spot. Low pitch grind like metal components rubbing. Again, I don't hear it after the car warms up and I don't hear it when cornering at speeds over 30 mph or so. I found reference to the TSB about "rear differential noise" in the Edmund's service link for my '07 C6.
I'll need lube service within the next month so I'll have the dealer address the noise at that time. Hopefully they'll put some new and improved lubricant in the differential reservoir.
Thanks for your help.
Most/many dealers will offer it. They will want to sell you some aftermarket warranty, probably because they make more money on this. But the GMPP will probably cost more. If a Chevy dealer does not offer the GMPP, go to another one.
just at a higher price than if purchased before 12\12...
You can buy this at any dealership - and some
specialize.
I saved hundreds buying this way...
Good luck!
- Ray
Drove over 2300 miles in less than the first 2 months in my [ DD ] Corvette...
I had lube service done today and while at the dealer they replaced the rear differential fluid with something "new" from GM" and described in a technical service bulletin ( listed on Edmunds ). The service writer seemed familiar with the problem but was typically hesitant to give "too many" details.
This fixed the problem and the car now drives like it did when it was new. I hope this new lubricant continues to solve the "problem".
Thanks for the assistance in describing the problem and the "fix".
I would immediately take it to another Dealer - one that has
a Corvette Tech & a good reputation for customer
service...
Not trying to be a wise [non-permissible content removed] - there are lots of Chevy Dealers to choose from...
Good luck!
- Ray
C6 A6 07
If this is the cause of your problems, rather than just a weak battery, GM has issued a TSB that calls for a reflash of the BCM, or Body Control Module. This reflash has been completely successful in addressing the problem. I don't have the TSB # handy, but any dealer should be able to find it in their computer database.
But given all of the above, yes, there is a TSB on reflashing the logic in one of the car's computers. This should be done no matter what.
It's a shame if your dealer is not really wanting to help you here. This is a very well known problem, and a dealership servicing any amount of 2005 manual cars should know about this. And even if the car is out of warranty, the dealer should be willing to do this for your car.
Thanks much.
I am assuming this is a different issue. He said it was related to 2005 - 2007 models. Does anyone have the TSB # for the 2005 - 6 speed DBS problem?
Thanks!
Find a more knowledgable dealer.
Are you sure it's just not a bad battery? These batteries are small. If you let your car sit without running for several weeks at a time, the batteries on most of them will run down. And if a battery has been killed once, it will never recover to its full power.