Options
Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2004+)
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I think it will be easier for A/C to remove humidity from warm cabin air than outside humid freezing air.
Just a thought. I haven't experienced the problem yet in my 5 months old sienna.
Thanks
You may have to install some form of load-leveling system to keep the rear bumper/hitch from dragging (particularly going through dips).
Are you trying to insinuate that FWD vehicles should not be used for towing? You ARE aware that most FWD vehicles have around a 60/40 weight distribution; with FWD minivans it may even be closer to 65/35. Having a trailer with weight applied to the hitch probably changes that distribution, at most, to 55/45. I still fail to see what the problem is.
Interesting. 5th wheel trailors put the trailor tongue weight directly over the rear axle. So, how does that bring the front of the pickup up in the air?
And why are we suddenly comparing the tow charecteristics of dually pickups and 5th wheel trailors with FWD minivans and bumper hitch trailors?
Better weight distribution in the trailer itself is one way. Shifting the trailer's load so that tongue weight is reduced. Be careful though, because too light a tongue weight can be dangerous-- poor handling problems are possible. Keep at least 75 to 100 pounds on the tongue for best results, and this won't cause the front of the towing vehicle to lift too much.
The best idea is a "Load Equalizer" trailer hitch. This is attached to the frame of the towing vehicle, and a pair of equalizer bars (kind of like torque tubes) are fastened to the trailer and the hitch itself. Hitch load is then distributed equally on all four wheels of the towing vehicle.
This type of trailer hitch is a bit more expensive than a standard frame hitch, but not an excessive amount.
One manufacturer is "Draw Tite", out of Belleville Michigan. I've used theirs on a minivan and it worked fine.
I would not recommend a simple bumper hitch under any circumstances. Not safe!! I would also recommend installing electricly operated booster brakes on your trailer if loads are in the 2000 pound or greater range. These braking systems aren't that expensive, and can certainly be a big help in many circumstances.
http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/WD/wd_hitches.htm
Adjusting the weight distribution of the trailer is also a good idea (I've had to do that myself when towing construction material in various utility trailers) but I don't know how much this can be adjusted when towing pop-up campers.
Good Luck.
-Dudley
Has anyone had any success with this issue? Any part(s) in particular to steer the dealer towards (since they weren't very motivated to look into it last winter when I took it in)?
FWIW, I've also noticed in cold weather that the tailgate doesn't seem to raise up as far as it should-- I usually have to push it up the remaining foot or so. Related? Maybe, maybe not.
-Dudley
I've lived in Syracuse and Ithaca, NY -- places with plenty of snow and hills -- and never had such a horrible experience with no traction. Has anyone else experienced this? Will snow tires correct the problem? Or do I need to get an AWD? PLEASE ADVISE!
Thanks.
We did just fine last winter in a few inches of snow and it feels like driving in rain. The traction control rarely comes on while driving in slushes and packed snows. Ice obviously is more challenging, but with a bit of common sense and good set of winter tires, we get around fine.
By the way, I HATED the washboard surface-like ride quality in the AWD, especially in the back seats. One ride in it was enough for both of us and a friend who rode along. Try the winter tire route before spending thousands on a new car.
My 2001 AWD RX300, definite front biasing, runs year 'round on nice quiet and comfortable summer tires and gets rear chains first and then fronts are added if/when necessary.
Remember that on non-adverse roadbed conditions, dry or just wet, winter tires will have much lower roadbed traction than summer tires. So if in your area adverse roadbed conditions are the exception rather than the rule winter tires will be putting your life at more risk than just using summer tires continually.
But be quick, NEVER hesitate, to install those snow chains the instant you encounter adverse roadbed conditions. And with FWD, chains or no, be extra careful when slowing or braking, especially downhill.
And remember AAA's recommendation, shift quickly into neutral when slowing or braking if traction is low or threatened. ABS can prevent the front brakes from resulting in loss of directional control but can do NOTHING to reduce front braking due to engine compression.
Not sure what stock tires you have.
Solutions - From easy to hard.
1. Best all seasons with good snow traction.
1a) GY assurance Triple Tread.
1b) Yokohoma AVID TRZ.
2. Nokian WR - all season with "winter tires ratings"
3. Winter only tires on a new set of rims.
4. AWD with winter tires.
5. Snow chains will be my very last option.
The soft compound summer tire will harden and have a consistency of brick near freezing temp. Tires like Blizzak WS-50 has tread design that help on surface with water (water over ice) according to tirerack.com's description. I'd personally feel more comfortable in a good set of winter tires than summers in the cold weather.
I used to not bother with dedicated winter tires, but living in Germany for a few years forced (required from Nov to March) me to use them on my 5-series and have not looked back once I saw how much better it was.
With 4 snows you save wear and tear on your alloy wheels and your summer tires last longer. Getting through 1 harrowing experience can be worth the price. Your vehicle will be able to stop and turn (assuming you don't stand on the gas around the corner) better than an AWD that has the standard tires.
I was sold years ago when I test drove an Outback in a snowstorm after driving there in my Integra (with 4 snows). The Integra felt much better in the snow.
I have two year old all seasons on my Odyssey and got caught before changing the tires this year. It took me 4 tries to find a hill I could make it up to get accross town. Changed the tires that afternoon (this was to snow tires that are on their 6th season) and had no problems getting around at all - even though more snow had fallen.
-Dudley
(IMO, 'All-Season Tires' are inappropriately named, unless you live in the sun belt).
Also, doesn't it stand to reason that for 2nd row passengers, a 7 passenger LE model gives them a inch or so more distance from a side impact collision than the 8 passenger model? I don't think the crash tests have spoken to different data on those two models, have they?
I know, should have been more forceful, but it was a few days before christmas, and I was just tired. Anyway long story short-if you own a 2004 sienna ce, you may want to check if your cabin air filter is there. Happy Holidays!
Three days and many frustrating hours later, the tires are still not on (and it's snowing today!). The problem seems to be that the wheels come with something called a "centering ring" that is necessary, but with it, my husband cannot get the wheels on. He called two garages this morning, both of whom had never heard of a centering ring. TireRack has been closed several days for the holiday. Has anyone else come across this problem?
Thanks.
Wish I could be more help. What does the centering ring look like?
Provided the centering rings are correct for you car it takes a bit more "feel" and dexterity but otherwise they should go on as easily as changing a tire.
Anyway, thanks for the feedback!
Dudleyr mentioned and this tread mentions a centering ring and the use of different lug nuts. I was not told about these items.
I have looked at several shops for lug nuts but no one seems to carry they. Dealer Part??? The guy I bought the tires from can't help me until Monday or Tuesday cause he has no stock nor can my dealer as they are closed for the holiday.
Are these extra parts really necessary?
Will the chrome nuts from the alloy wheels be fine for the steel rims?
What is the purpose of the centering ring and is it required for OEM rims which I was told I received?
Is there a cover for the centre hub nut or is one really required? The alloy rims cover it nicely where the steel rims have it exposed. I'd be worried that someone might come along to try and loosen the hub nut.
Finally, and most importantly what do these "different" lug nuts look like? The original ones for the alloy rims have a flat contact to the rim, I am assuming the lug nuts I will need for the steel rims should be the old tappered style.
Thanks, Happy New Year everyone!!!
Had a glitch with my order too. One of the tires was backwards (they are directional). They paid to get it resolved (remountd and balanced) and took $50 off of my bill, so I remain satisfied.
The first time I took the car in for evaluation, the mechanic reported back that the noise was due to a windshield cleaner canister rattling in the door.
The second time I took the mechanic for a spin around a nearby parking lot and let him hear eight or ten examples of the noise. He got it, and collaborated with the shop steward to arrive at a diagnosis. They settled on a faulty intermediate drive shaft and replaced it a week later, after securing the part. The Service Agent reported by telephone that the mechanic felt most of the noise was eliminated by the replacing the intermediate drive shaft, but my problem was not completely eliminated. Shop Steward over-rode the technician's view and deemed the vehicle now operating as designed.
400 miles later, I am back to the original state, with the loud clunking re-asserting itself as in the original complaint.
I suppose I might try the service at the dealer who sold me the car, but I'm leery of that shop because their car jockey strafed the right hand side of my car in their parking garage.
in the meantime, I wish I could help the technicians with the proper and complete diagnosis, as I don't have all that much time to devote to this back and forth.
Any ideas?
The only way to combat this is to put the control system in the lowest possible COOL position (reheat door/vane fully closed) or in the case of automatic climate control in the max cool position, assuming A/C is switched off in both cases.
Has anyone installed one of these in any other location? The reason for considering such an installation was to get the antenna and power wires out-of-sight. It would use the existing stereo via the aux port just above the installation.
When there is a thaw and then a freeze the windows will not open unless a park and let the heater run for some time.
Anyone else having this problem?