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does anyone know which transmission fluid and brake oil forester 01 uses? does walmart sell it? or autoparts a better place to get such things...
thanks
have a grt drive..
Do a compression test to see if the valves really are bad. I don't think that's very expensive.
These guys specialize in wrecked Subies, FWIW.
http://www.fsautoparts.com/
Is it normal? How could I fix it?
Thanks
:confuse:
Is it normal? How could I fix it?
Thanks
-mike
Someone replied that the valves hit each other rather than contacting the piston. It might be just one side I am dealing with. Hope springs eternal.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
That's probably soot which means that your fuel isn't being burnt completely. This suggests that your oxygen mix is not optimal and you should have your O2 sensor checked.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Before messing with the new engine, he should wipe the soot out of the muffler tip to get a clean surface to view, and begin driving the car normally. He might not see any more soot.
-mike
Just take longer drives.
Sounds like you are referring to the white vapor plume as moisture in the muffler comes out the cold tailpipe.
I think the original poster was refering to black soot deposits in his tail pipe, which would be from a rich cold mixture.
The soot was deposited during the time the new car was driving around the lot and on short test drives.
Now that he owns the car and is driving it normally, the deposits should not occur again.
Sounds like a warranty issue to me, but it might be something simple as well. We do need more details to help you, though.
If you need more information please tell me and sorry for my english.
Anyone out there know of a reader/scanner that for sure will work with my car? I don't want to spend hundreds, but I'd like to do this myself if I can.
It also worked on a friend's Chevy Suburban, an older model.
-mike
I have a '99 Forester with 180k miles on it. It's been working perfectly, then suddenly the other day these two things started happening:
Thing 1: The engine revs at stops (in "drive" with my foot on the brake), as well as in "neutral" and "park". It revs between 200 and 1200 RPM. Up and down, up and down. This is at almost every stop light. About 1 in 10 stoplights, it behaves normally.
Thing 2: The transmission is not shifting properly: it doesn''t want to shift up when it should. Eventually, it *does* shift up, but much later than it should. And it often shifts down when it should not.
The repair place is not sure what the problem is: they''ve already swapped out the oxygen sensor to no avail.
Any ideas, esteemed Subaru folk? Thanks in advance.
M
-mike
But good idea, any others?
-mike
-mike
First problem in almost eight years with this car.
Can you believe that it actually says in the Forester OWNERS MANUAL that "a light knocking is normal when going uphill or accelerating". I believe its at the bottom of the page on octane rating of gas used under the driving section. Its hard to find and not indexed.
I heard the same noise when a customer's Legacy was warming up one day. it has the same engine.
I also did a web search and it appears to be fairly normal, even while warming up too. Mine makes a fairly pronounced knocking or tapping often when warming up and its worse on cold days. It usually goes away for the most part after a few minutes. It just has to do with the way the engine was made. Whether its a good thing, I don't know. Foresters of 1999 as mine is aren't known for reliable engines to begin with so maybe a lot of them are just poorly made. I know that a 99 forester has average reliability overall, but the fact that I love everything about the car plus its great safety rating trumps just about every other vehicle. What happens in a crash is about the most important thing about a vehicle.
I have not tried premium fuel in this car, but as i understand it, this car uses a knock sensor so should there be a need?? Is the knock sensor online when engine is cold? Any ideas?
I too have an engine that runs as smooth as anything I've ever owned (idle included) and I have no performance issues. This noise is really just something I want to have a heads up on if there is a problem waiting to happen.
It is on page 7-3 where it says:
Fuel octane rating
... Using a gasoline with a lower octane
rating can cause persistent and heavy
knocking, which can damage the engine.
Do not be concerned if your vehicle
sometimes knocks lightly when you drive
up a hill or when you accelerate. See your
dealer or a qualified service technician if
you use a fuel with the specified octane
rating and your vehicle knocks heavily or
persistently.
The noise may be normal. Read this and download the PDFs from the links:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-661871.html
Also go to this thread on the Forester Owners Forum and download the PDFs in it:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2833
What if the Acc circuit is wired and fused for a much smaller load than the On circuit?
I was simply saying that the battery can handle the load of two window motors at once, with everything else that comes on in the "On" position. Even the marginal OE battery supplied by Subaru can handle it. If someone were to tap the window controls into the ACC circuit, I suppose we would find out...
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
I'll post again if I can get it to reproduce reliably.
-Frank
P.S. Congrats on your new ride
-Frank
Any ideas before I call 1800SUBARU3 for help?