You car has some miles on it...mine has 120k and needs a good service...it bounces when shifting from 2nd to 3rd (AT)...got it from a dealer a few months back..probably will have to change the transmission fluid (its brown according to mechanic who chekd it) and the timing belt..do u know how much they charge for changing the cv axle (left) - they put a remanufactured one and charged me 317 USD for it...felt kind of a lot... does anyone know which transmission fluid and brake oil forester 01 uses? does walmart sell it? or autoparts a better place to get such things...
I sent you post before I read your reply (my bad). How do I do the compression test? On my 85 Laser it was easy, the spark plugs stared me in the face when I opened the hood. These puppies are on the side and there is no clearance that I can see. Suggestions are certainly welcomed and encouraged
I just bought a new Forester 2007 2.5 xt limited with turbo engine. It is the last one in the dealer. I found that there are black dust in the exhaust pipes, not as clean as my 2005 toyota matrix.
I just bought a new Forester 2007 2.5 xt limited with turbo engine. It is the last one in the dealer. I found that there is black dust in the exhaust pipe, not as clean as my 2005 toyota matrix.
Don't worry about it. The new car has not been driven much, idled a lot, test driven around the block, etc. Probably never been warmed up enough for the ECU to get into the closed loop mode and give the engine the lean running mixture.
I bought an engine from F&S, very very bad service. When I went to pick it up they gave me a runaround and had to make a copy of my lisc. for them at the local staples store.
I found that there are black dust in the exhaust pipes
That's probably soot which means that your fuel isn't being burnt completely. This suggests that your oxygen mix is not optimal and you should have your O2 sensor checked.
He said the car was brand new. Maybe the car was started up and stopped a lot, moved around the dealers lot, taken on short test drives, etc. Maybe the engine was not up to operating temperature for most the time it was running, so the ECU was in open loop and the mixture was rich.
Before messing with the new engine, he should wipe the soot out of the muffler tip to get a clean surface to view, and begin driving the car normally. He might not see any more soot.
I agree, it's been idling around the parking lot for a few tanks of gas. It's probably running rich due to no full warm up cycles. Give it a few tanks of gas worth of normal driving and it'll be fine.
But he should wipe the soot out of his pipe with gas. Otherwise it will remain, and he will not be able to see that future normal driving produces no more soot.
"... the fuel and water vapors do not evaporate completely. "
Sounds like you are referring to the white vapor plume as moisture in the muffler comes out the cold tailpipe. I think the original poster was refering to black soot deposits in his tail pipe, which would be from a rich cold mixture. The soot was deposited during the time the new car was driving around the lot and on short test drives. Now that he owns the car and is driving it normally, the deposits should not occur again.
I have a Subaru Forester 2007 only for 6months with many many problems.THE MAIN THING IS THAT I CAN'T SWITCH ON THE ENGINE AT MORNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Is anybody know something to help me i' m lost!!!!!!!!
The engine cranks,all the lights are turning on, but there is no sound of the motor.Finally i manage to switch it on by pushing the accellerator and at the same time i turn the key.Also when the engine finally works the rpm are close to 2600rpm.After 3min they fall to 900rpm and the motor "shakes". If you need more information please tell me and sorry for my english.
I have a 2001 Forester that has a CEL. I went through this a year or so ago, and tried to get a code reader to pull the code(s) myself. That's when I learned that not all readers work with Subarus. I had to sell the Innova Equus 3030 I bought, even though I sent it back to them to be reprogrammed for Subarus, because it just wouldn't work with mine.
Anyone out there know of a reader/scanner that for sure will work with my car? I don't want to spend hundreds, but I'd like to do this myself if I can.
If it isn't working properly, perhaps you can try it on another Forester? I have seen where the ECU on the particular car was messed up and that caused the scanner not to read it properly.
I have a '99 Forester with 180k miles on it. It's been working perfectly, then suddenly the other day these two things started happening:
Thing 1: The engine revs at stops (in "drive" with my foot on the brake), as well as in "neutral" and "park". It revs between 200 and 1200 RPM. Up and down, up and down. This is at almost every stop light. About 1 in 10 stoplights, it behaves normally.
Thing 2: The transmission is not shifting properly: it doesn''t want to shift up when it should. Eventually, it *does* shift up, but much later than it should. And it often shifts down when it should not.
The repair place is not sure what the problem is: they''ve already swapped out the oxygen sensor to no avail.
Any ideas, esteemed Subaru folk? Thanks in advance.
Well, I'd think the same thing, but even in neutral the engine revs. (And when it does there's no "pull" on the car, so the trans is definitely disconnected.)
I'm not sure of that. My dad's speedo is shot on his 95 Impreza and the only issue is that when you rev the car over 3k rpms when the AT is in 3rd or 4th gear it will cut fuel on him.
My speed sensor went about three weeks ago. Symptoms were CEL, no speedometer, erratic idle, cooling fans were on all the time it was running and it was impossible to engage the clutch smoothly without slipping the clutch like crazy. As a friend said, it basically went into "limp home" mode.
First problem in almost eight years with this car.
Mine does exactly the same thing. It jumps mainly from 1st to 2nd gear. I would describe it as a hard shift. But its normal. While selling my forester (because I need a pickup truck) I asked one guy who called me if he had test driven other Foresters and if that was normal. He said they "ALL DID IT" meaning it is normal. There are some posts online about how it is the result of subaru actually using a more reliable engagment mechanism on their trans. I even had a transmission shop diagnose the "problem" and they told me that another subaru they have in was actually worse than mine and they feel that its normal. I actually told them to tell me what it needed done and I would pay but they said there was nothing they could do. And this was a place that rebuilds trannys all day long. I even brought it back to them the next day and insisted that they test drive it again and find the problem but they couldn't find anything wrong. This place happened to be a rare case of a fatally honest mechanic shop. Of course, I know who to recommend to all my friends if they ever have a real problem.
I have also anguished over this sound quite a bit. The dealership said it needed a new engine. But then again, it was before the holddays and I imagine they were trying to rack up a thanksgiving bonus. Anyhow 14,000 miles later and she still drives like new. So much for the "need new engine theory".
Can you believe that it actually says in the Forester OWNERS MANUAL that "a light knocking is normal when going uphill or accelerating". I believe its at the bottom of the page on octane rating of gas used under the driving section. Its hard to find and not indexed.
I heard the same noise when a customer's Legacy was warming up one day. it has the same engine.
I also did a web search and it appears to be fairly normal, even while warming up too. Mine makes a fairly pronounced knocking or tapping often when warming up and its worse on cold days. It usually goes away for the most part after a few minutes. It just has to do with the way the engine was made. Whether its a good thing, I don't know. Foresters of 1999 as mine is aren't known for reliable engines to begin with so maybe a lot of them are just poorly made. I know that a 99 forester has average reliability overall, but the fact that I love everything about the car plus its great safety rating trumps just about every other vehicle. What happens in a crash is about the most important thing about a vehicle.
Most cars have an Idle Speed Controller (ISC) that hangs on or near the throttle body that meters combustion air depending on coolant temperature, A/C activity and electrical load. Because air passes through the ISC, they get dirty after many years and the pintile that moves back and forth to admit the air doesn't have free travel or simply fails. They can be cleaned with throttle body cleaner, but you might have to remove and dismantle the ISC to do it. I had no luck with the failed ISC on my '92 Mitsu and had to replace it. About $250 for the part as I recall. A failed ISC usually throws a code. Just a thought; hope this might help.
I too am new to Subaru (03 Forester L, 5spd) and was glad (?) to hear someone else was experiencing this slight knocking sound on cold start and light acceleration while cold. Not having a lot of history with these engines, I am feeling rather unqualified to pass judgement. My knee-jerk reaction when I first drove the car cold was that there was either piston slap or a bad bearing or a collapsed lifter. My father is a an experienced licensed mechanic and he doesn't feel that it's any of those and treats my concern with a "fix it when it's broken" attitude.
I have not tried premium fuel in this car, but as i understand it, this car uses a knock sensor so should there be a need?? Is the knock sensor online when engine is cold? Any ideas?
I too have an engine that runs as smooth as anything I've ever owned (idle included) and I have no performance issues. This noise is really just something I want to have a heads up on if there is a problem waiting to happen.
"... Can you believe that it actually says in the Forester OWNERS MANUAL that "a light knocking is normal when going uphill or accelerating". I believe its at the bottom of the page on octane rating of gas used under the driving section. Its hard to find and not indexed. "
It is on page 7-3 where it says:
Fuel octane rating ... Using a gasoline with a lower octane rating can cause persistent and heavy knocking, which can damage the engine. Do not be concerned if your vehicle sometimes knocks lightly when you drive up a hill or when you accelerate. See your dealer or a qualified service technician if you use a fuel with the specified octane rating and your vehicle knocks heavily or persistently.
"... Not having a lot of history with these engines, I am feeling rather unqualified to pass judgement... I too have an engine that runs as smooth as anything I've ever owned (idle included) and I have no performance issues. This noise is really just something I want to have a heads up on if there is a problem waiting to happen."
Subaru really limits the number of accessories that operate in the "acc" mode. Radio, wipers (wohoo!)... that's about it. Maybe the seat heaters. Apparently they feel that you will only want to use your windows if you are driving the vehicle, but you will definitely want to see out your windshield moving or not. :confuse:
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
You would think that they could trade the wiper operation for the windows. During the warmer weather, I like to sit in my car during lunch and listen to music. But if I have to roll down/up a window, I need to turn the ignition key to on from accessory. But it is remarkable that the wipers work. I guess they think I am on a stakeout and need to keep an eye on someone when it is raining. Now, with the key on accessory, the door chime goes off. Some cars have a radio only key setting for just this occassion.
That is not likely the reason, considering one can turn the car to the 'on' position and accomplish this task (even 2 windows at once) without a problem. That is even with all the other junk coming on that the car does not need while the engine is not running!
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
"... That is not likely the reason, considering one can turn the car to the 'on' position and accomplish this task (even 2 windows at once) without a problem."
What if the Acc circuit is wired and fused for a much smaller load than the On circuit?
Well, sure, but that is the horse leading the cart there. If the engineers do not plan to have the windows on the ACC circuit, they need not account for their motors' power consumption when designing the circuit. Had they a little more foresight and included the windows, the circuit could handle it.
I was simply saying that the battery can handle the load of two window motors at once, with everything else that comes on in the "On" position. Even the marginal OE battery supplied by Subaru can handle it. If someone were to tap the window controls into the ACC circuit, I suppose we would find out...
2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
My guess would be safety. If you leave the acc on with the radio and kids in the car, you don't have to worry about them putting the windows up? Either that or they have to draw the line somewhere...
I may have seen the same thing in a 2008 Manual. Coasting while looking for parking, clutch in, second gear, rpms jump to ~1500 and then drop and then again. Its a new car so the first time I was looking to see if I'd touched the gas rather than the brake. I seem to have provoked it a second time when in gear, but in neutral it didn't seem to do it.
I'll post again if I can get it to reproduce reliably.
John- A brand new car shouldn't do that (and as long as the clutch is in it shouldn't matter what gear you're in). I'd definitely take it to the dealer if the problem persists.
Playing a little more I think I was catching the very edge of the gas pedal with the edge of my foot. I'm obviously used to pedals that have a decade+ of wear and not sharp 90deg edges.
Having problems with my 2004 Forester. First got CEL engine missfire on all 4 cylinders (P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304) just before 60K miles (and after a 60K maintenance!), dealer reset code since they found nothing. Happened again 1500 miles later, dealer changed spark plug cables. Happened again at 1500 miles, dealer changed spark plugs and ignition coil. Now 1000 miles later the CEL is on and I suspect it's another missfire. Engine is running kind of rough when throttled, especially when cold, in the first 10 minutes but otherwise everything sounds OK. Dealer says I may need "new pistons" in the near future (at 60000 miles? All missfires have happened in the first minute of driving - first three after engine has been "warm", last cold.
Comments
does anyone know which transmission fluid and brake oil forester 01 uses? does walmart sell it? or autoparts a better place to get such things...
thanks
have a grt drive..
Do a compression test to see if the valves really are bad. I don't think that's very expensive.
These guys specialize in wrecked Subies, FWIW.
http://www.fsautoparts.com/
Is it normal? How could I fix it?
Thanks
:confuse:
Is it normal? How could I fix it?
Thanks
-mike
Someone replied that the valves hit each other rather than contacting the piston. It might be just one side I am dealing with. Hope springs eternal.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
That's probably soot which means that your fuel isn't being burnt completely. This suggests that your oxygen mix is not optimal and you should have your O2 sensor checked.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Before messing with the new engine, he should wipe the soot out of the muffler tip to get a clean surface to view, and begin driving the car normally. He might not see any more soot.
-mike
Just take longer drives.
Sounds like you are referring to the white vapor plume as moisture in the muffler comes out the cold tailpipe.
I think the original poster was refering to black soot deposits in his tail pipe, which would be from a rich cold mixture.
The soot was deposited during the time the new car was driving around the lot and on short test drives.
Now that he owns the car and is driving it normally, the deposits should not occur again.
Sounds like a warranty issue to me, but it might be something simple as well. We do need more details to help you, though.
If you need more information please tell me and sorry for my english.
Anyone out there know of a reader/scanner that for sure will work with my car? I don't want to spend hundreds, but I'd like to do this myself if I can.
It also worked on a friend's Chevy Suburban, an older model.
-mike
I have a '99 Forester with 180k miles on it. It's been working perfectly, then suddenly the other day these two things started happening:
Thing 1: The engine revs at stops (in "drive" with my foot on the brake), as well as in "neutral" and "park". It revs between 200 and 1200 RPM. Up and down, up and down. This is at almost every stop light. About 1 in 10 stoplights, it behaves normally.
Thing 2: The transmission is not shifting properly: it doesn''t want to shift up when it should. Eventually, it *does* shift up, but much later than it should. And it often shifts down when it should not.
The repair place is not sure what the problem is: they''ve already swapped out the oxygen sensor to no avail.
Any ideas, esteemed Subaru folk? Thanks in advance.
M
-mike
But good idea, any others?
-mike
-mike
First problem in almost eight years with this car.
Can you believe that it actually says in the Forester OWNERS MANUAL that "a light knocking is normal when going uphill or accelerating". I believe its at the bottom of the page on octane rating of gas used under the driving section. Its hard to find and not indexed.
I heard the same noise when a customer's Legacy was warming up one day. it has the same engine.
I also did a web search and it appears to be fairly normal, even while warming up too. Mine makes a fairly pronounced knocking or tapping often when warming up and its worse on cold days. It usually goes away for the most part after a few minutes. It just has to do with the way the engine was made. Whether its a good thing, I don't know. Foresters of 1999 as mine is aren't known for reliable engines to begin with so maybe a lot of them are just poorly made. I know that a 99 forester has average reliability overall, but the fact that I love everything about the car plus its great safety rating trumps just about every other vehicle. What happens in a crash is about the most important thing about a vehicle.
I have not tried premium fuel in this car, but as i understand it, this car uses a knock sensor so should there be a need?? Is the knock sensor online when engine is cold? Any ideas?
I too have an engine that runs as smooth as anything I've ever owned (idle included) and I have no performance issues. This noise is really just something I want to have a heads up on if there is a problem waiting to happen.
It is on page 7-3 where it says:
Fuel octane rating
... Using a gasoline with a lower octane
rating can cause persistent and heavy
knocking, which can damage the engine.
Do not be concerned if your vehicle
sometimes knocks lightly when you drive
up a hill or when you accelerate. See your
dealer or a qualified service technician if
you use a fuel with the specified octane
rating and your vehicle knocks heavily or
persistently.
The noise may be normal. Read this and download the PDFs from the links:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-661871.html
Also go to this thread on the Forester Owners Forum and download the PDFs in it:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2833
What if the Acc circuit is wired and fused for a much smaller load than the On circuit?
I was simply saying that the battery can handle the load of two window motors at once, with everything else that comes on in the "On" position. Even the marginal OE battery supplied by Subaru can handle it. If someone were to tap the window controls into the ACC circuit, I suppose we would find out...
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
I'll post again if I can get it to reproduce reliably.
-Frank
P.S. Congrats on your new ride
-Frank
Any ideas before I call 1800SUBARU3 for help?