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Lexus IS Tires and Wheels

in Lexus
Can anyone tell me that after you replace the original tires on a rear wheel IS250 if the replacement tires can be the same size to facilitate tire rotation. I don't think it can but my lexus salesman is insisting they can be rotated when you put same size tires on. he acknowledges the wheels are bigger in the back but says you can put the same size tires as the front!
Thanks,
Tony
Thanks,
Tony
0
Comments
Hope this help.
You could try spinning rims..
Reasons for not doing it:
1. Technically a 225/40 should be run on a rim width of 7"-8", so you'd be outside spec on the rears
2. 225/40-18 (front) gives you an outside diameter of 25"; 255/40-18 (rear) gives you an OD of 26.1" - your suspension is set up for this 1" difference, even with the 17" wheels (though the difference there is more like .75"), and running the shorter, not just narrower, rubber in the back will make a dent in driving characteristics
3. Least important, but still annoying, it will look somewhat like you are running on spare tires in the back - it will look silly.
The staggered set-up works. The car has been designed that way. I suggest knuckling under and living with a tire purchase every 15-17K miles if you're dainty, and 10-14K miles if you're actually driving the car!
I get new rubber every 13K miles on average. Based on sheer driving pleasure, it's worth it. Well worth it.
I still wouldn't do it based on the other criteria, especially the handling/performance criterion.
SSR GT7
If you want to go with a dark insert, at least do it with a forged, lightweight wheel. These come in at about 20lbs, which ain't too shabby for an 18"x9. Just remember, real wheels have five spokes and more than seven basically screams either "juvenile pimp" or "geriatric poseur" in a loud, high-pitched whiny voice. IMNSHO, of course...
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Thats the answer I was looking for, I appreciate the full explanation.
Thanks again.
Another thought popped in here: the offset on the 8.5" rears, in order to carry the 255mm rubber without sticking out of the wells, is likely greater than the fronts. If too much moreso than the fronts, the tires will rub inside the wells at full crank. OTOH, if too little, the rims up front might actually stick out of the wells just a touch. Gives that oh-so-sophistcated air of an '84 Camaro from Compton. Mmmmm, tasty!
;-]
actually the answer is yes & no.
If you have staggered tires (the tires/rims in the rear are LARGER than the tires/rims in the front) then you CAMMOT rotate staggered tires. You need to keep an eye on your tire pressure(s) AND you should (read: recommendation) perform an alignment at a minimum of 2X per year.
HOWEVER, you could mount a front tire on a rear size rim BUT it won't feel or drive right and you might get some rubbing at the fender/wheel well housing) or the brake caliper might touch the inside of the rim (NOT what you want to happen).
The idea of staggered tires is that it lends to better performance and if you paid for the 18' tire package why would you want to change it?
Stick to keeping the tires inflated to the proper level & the front end in alignment and you should have NO problem. Also, don't take the car to a jiffy-boob or a Midas for an alignment (or maintenance for that matter). Take it to the dealer - they have the right equiptment and the know how. You spend a lot of $$ for a premium car, don't let just any idiot work on it. That's like buying a million dollar home and furnishing it with IKEA crap! Spend the money & get it done right. Remember, you get what you pay for!
For those who have 18" summer tires on their IS, do you plan to replace them at lexus dealer or some where else(where)?
Do you plan to use the same dunlop maxx tires or other brand?
Does mounting require special know-how since this car come with tire pressure monitoring system?
Please advise,
Thanks,
Although I don't think mounting requires special tools or knowledge because of the tire pressure monitoring system I just don't want to give Lexus any execuse by changing them elsewhere. Since I change it at the leader they better take care of the car or else it's their asses.
I am pretty sure you may be able to save some bucks by not going to the dealer but for me I am willing to pay those money in order to avoid any potential troubles in the future.
That's just me though.
Tires I would strongly recommend over any Dunlop would be:
1. Goodyear F1 DS-G3 (top personal rec.)
2. Michelin Pilot Sport (I'm not a Michelin fan, but these have been consistently good with each iteration)
3. Bridgestone Potenza S-03 Pole Position (very precise, but not quite as good as the Goodyear in the wet, and treadwear ain't great)
The Michelins are available from Costco, which is convenient, and their prices include mount and balance. They don't do alignment, though, IIRC.
The Goodyears and Bridgestones are standard Wheelworks or any other major discounter fare, and most of those shops can align as well.
If you don't feel comfortable changing brands, there is nothing terribly wrong with the Dunlops. Then again, there's nothing so very right with them either.
Like I said, you should re-align at each rubber change, especially if changing the spec on the tire. My Lexus shop subs it out to the local Wheelworks, where I buy my tires. I found that out after letting the dealership take care of it once, and found the invoice from Wheelworks for the job attached to my Lexus invoice, sans price. Paid Lexus $150 for the privelege, only to find out that the local Wheelworks charges $60. Closing on $90 extra profit for my dealer...
Re TPM: Any reputable tire retailer knows how to deal with TPMs. There are no special tricks any dealer has up its sleeve for that one.
Believe me, when there's a service, warranty or performance advantage to using the dealer, I do it. Nothing there on the tire change, other than a loaner car. That's actually another sore point: Lexus had my car all day while I was stuck in a porky ES330 (why can't they give IS loaners?); the tire shop had me in and out in just over an hour - just enough time for lunch!
Honestly, dtezla, I don't think that many brick and mortars do bother with the pad and box in their own shops. There are two other Lex shops in proximity, and neither of them do their own. No good reason to if you can sub it locally and still rake a fat profit. No hardware to maintain nor software to update and you don't need to train the techs to operate and adjust, nor pay them benefits either.
No significant brand-only technology here either; not exactly rocket science after all.
He had a simple answer:
1) We will take better care of your car and offer you a loaner car for the day and
2) if your wheel/car should become damaged in our possession we will make it right. All local tire shops in my area advise that if you drop off a flat or are having work done the tires are left at your own risk and they do not cover scratches or nicks from their work/damage to car in parking lot etc.
Not sure if in the US the dealers have the same policy of giving a loaner car for all service work performed. In Edmonton we can get them for oil changes if we give 1 wk notice.
Just my thoughts on the matter.
As for the dealer's rationale as to why his shop is worth a premium, it sounds nice, but other than the loaner, it's all bunk.
Perhaps laws are significantly different north of us, but here dealerships are't legally liable for damage to your car while its on their property. Not liable for theft either. Doesn't mean they won't make it right if something happens, but legally, they're no more or less responsible than any tire shop.
I think he's blowing sunshine to keep some bidniss...
That's exactly the reason I'll do my tire replacement service at the dealer. Like I said earlier, when I take my Lexus to a Lexus dealer for any kind of service I know they will take care of my car or else they will make it up to me unlike the other local shops.
Checked out Costco. They no longer have a contract w/Bridgestone. Currently, there is a Michelin tire sale from 8/15 to 9/3/2006. So they suggested Michelin Primacy @$215.99 per tire - all 4 @$839.96 (this includes current coupon $60.00 off for all 4 tires)or Michelin Pilot Sport @$212.99 per tire (just $3.00 difference - weird huh?)
My question is: Has anybody installed Michelin Primacy or Michelin Pilot Sport? Are Michelins any good?
Hoping somebody on this forum can help me. Just wanna say that if it wasn't for this particular site I wouldn't have purchased the car. The responses were extremely helpful & truthful!! Its really nice to know that being honest is in vogue for some!!
Thanking all in advance!!
I have had very good success with them on my BMW
MY new IS250
6 speed MT w/ Sport Pak has Bridgestone Potenza RE050
Too early to tell how they are (only 2,700 miles on it)
Be careful of COSTCO .. the tires might look and smell like OEM but you need to look carefully at the LOAD rating. This is what gives the tires the handling characteristics. The load rating is the last set of #'s & letters. Without comparing these, you are comparing apples to pineapples.
If you have the 18" you should be looking @ 225/40/R18 88Y and 255/40R18 95Y
MY PERSONAl choice would be Piliot Sport 2
Remember compare apples to apples
You could always try to get the dealer to match or come close to a TIRE STORE price.
Have you tried TIRE RACK .. their prices are INSANE and they will drop ship (send it to where you want it sent) the tires for you.
Some of our higher end clients do this with us. We just charge them the installation fee.
GOOD LUCK!
Costco does not have the Primacys in stock. The tire is currently in production & will not arrive for another 2 weeks. The Michelin Primacy has a "W" rating. Costco says that it is the equivalent to a "Z" rated tire. I am not sure what you mean by "load" but will surf the net for that. Will also try Tire Rack! Why do you like Pilot Sport?
If you buy the car brand new are tires under normal warranty (not the extended warranty)?
Sorry! I am really "car challenged". Also, is it easy to change out the air conditioning filter?
Thank you very much for your help!!!
yes, get "Z" rated tires if that is what is on there now. You don't want to change the rating and NO NO NO "Z" rated tires are not the same as "W" rated tires.
Is Lexus the same as Toyota?
And I have never heard of a manufacturer warranty being voided because you changed the load or speed rating of the tire .. That is TOTAL BS & CRAP. The only thing you are "voiding" is the performance and handling aspects of the car by going to a lower rated tire. Manufacturers spend lots of money to come up with a tire that is designed to give the handling & performance that is engineered into the car. Why go against what the engineers have designed?
Piliot Sports are more performance oriented than Primacy's.
I personally like them because as they wear out, they don't have or create as much tire noise as other brands.
As for warranty on tires ... 99.5% of all tires maufactured are defect free. The warranty only covers defects in material & workmanship. A bubble on the side wall, uneven wear patterns, feathering & cupping are NOT warrantible defects. 99.9% of the time they are caused by "outside influence" (read: NOT covered by a warranty)
You can however when purchasing new tires either at a dealer or a tire shop, PURCHASE a road hazard guarantee. They usually cover the items I described above. First yr is free and 2 yr, 3rd yr etc . is usually prorated based on tread life remaining. Client is usually responsible for labor charges to "replace" tires (ie: mounting, balancing & disposal)
Personally, I would stay AWAY from COSTCO for my tire needs. Go to a professional tire shop or the dealer. Usually there is very little difference in $$ between an indy tire guy and the dealer.
And always, do an alignment when you change rubber. Again, best bet is to have the dealer who has the specialized equiptment and know how to do the alignment RIGHT (as long as they do it in house and don't sublet it out) - ALWAYS ask first to make sure they do it in house.
As for the A/C filter do you mean the charcoal filter?
I actually have no idea ... now if it were a BENZ ... that would be a different story!!
Initial impressions after a couple hundred miles... handling is about the same as the Dunlop Maxx, tracks better on rough road and are a fair bit quieter, much better in the rain.
If you have the 18" you should be looking 225/40/R18 88Y and 255/40R18 95Y
Costco will only mount OEM sizes. Their tires are the same Pilot Sport you buy anywhere else.
I should know .. I was just there this past weekend.
The size is correct .. the load rating is INCORRECT ...
Netwon
I noticed that some of you had Dunlop tires on your 18" wheels for your IS, while I have the Bridgestones. Any reason for this? Is one better than the other? An thoughts on a good set of replacements for these 18" wheels? I live in Seattle (rains quite a bit) and I'm looking for something with good wet/dry traction..
Thanks guys
The GoodYear Eagle F1 is the top rated tire for wet performance.
Personally, I'm planning on replacing my Dunlop SportMaxx tires in April with Michelin Pilot Sports through Costco. But I'm in a fairly dry part of Texas.