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Ford Windstar Problems
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Comments
as for the dome light until you find the real problem try to remove the battery relay under the drivers side fuse box
under the dash on his side. that fwill shut off the dome and the power to the windows. when you need to open the windows repace the relay. im still working on the problem
if you find out anything please let me know thank you very much vptsr
Chris
Out of curiosity was it raining when it stalled?
Did the check engine light come on? Is it on?
Disconnect and spray the connection for the lights (will be directly under the door lock) with contact cleaner, available at most hardware stores for less than $10.00.
Contact cleaner is alcohol based and will evaporate quickly.
Reconnect the light connection and wrap the connection with electrical tape to prevent future corrosion.
Pop the panels back on.
Spray all the door contacts on the frame of the car with wd-40, rear, sliding, passenger and drivers. This will clean up any dirt and help prevent corrosion from coming back.
I did this myself with my 96 and it took care of the problem. It took me 3 hours to take things apart and 30 minutes put things back together once I figured things out.
( no over drive when warm), they had the van for the whole month of October last year, could not figure it out and simply gave up!! Blamed it on the computor, needed to be reflashed. Not so according to the dealer.
So this van is ok for in the city, or about 20 min on the highway. Any buyers? Next stop Toyota dealer.
problem solved with new steering rack/pinion including labor-$450.(dealer guesstimated $800 to start)also, no more noise when turning left or right.happy for now,until i decide
to have the abs light diagnosed.
I experienced these problems twice on my 2001 Windstar.
After cooling off everything seemed to be fine
In both cases it was a sticky humid summer day.
After stopping the car for 5 minutes (picked the kids from daycare), the engine would stall, tire pressure indicator would go on (remained on). Looks like the onboard computer is acting crazy when it is too hot outside.
Thanks
I've got a 96WS GL 3.8. Have managed to avoid the Ford and shop rip offs so far. Yes, my van had problems.
1.speedometer jumping at 25k dealer replaced under warranty, would of cost about $500. Second time at 52k. I purchased a complete insturment cluster (reconditioned) for about $80 dollars and had the miles set to match the old one. replaced it myself. It's been good every since. Now has 171k.
2. Engine check light on, misfire on #3 cyclinder. 75k Misfiring, no power, stalling. Took it into a shop. They told me it was bad fuel injectors. $800. I didn't buy their story. Did some research, bought a top end (intake) seal kit. Found the entire intake, EGR systems plugged with carbon. Along with one of the vaccum actuators inop on the front intake rail. Gasket set $43.00 Vaccum actuator $60. 2 cans of carburator cleaner, bottle brush and half a day in my garage and it runs like a champ .
3. Transmission shift problems, have always kept up on changing the fluid and filter about every 30k. But it started to act up with shifting. Replaced the speed sensor on top of the transmission (under the rear exhuast, beneath the heat blanket)Its a very tight fit but it can be done. Also changed out the shift selector on the left hand side under the hood where the shift cable hooks to the transmission. Was told by several shops you need a $2300 transmission. My parts cost under $100 and I did it myself. :P
4. Clunk in the left front on a rough road. Plus a loud clunk when shifting into gear forward or reverse. Took me awhile to figure it out. But then realized it was only happening while the vehicle was in motion and a load on the transmission. We could not duplicate the sound bouncing up and down on the suspension. It is the famous "Ford" oil filled tansmission mounts. Great for vibration dampening in the short term. But once they get old and worn they leak out the oil. Then instead of dampening the shock, or securing the stress load on the drivetrain they just bottom out. Causing the CLUNK! Transmission mounts $46 dollars each. 2 hours, No more Clunk! :P
5. Can't help the brakes, they wear they get replaced. Yes they wear fast. I think it's just a weight and balance issue. These vans are not small vehicles, they are somewhat areo dynamic in shape. So it does take some brakes to slow them down. Just part of life.
Hope this helps some of the other indstar owners.
Rumple.
1. Haven't had that problem.
2. Already had the work done on it that you did and didn't fix the problem for long. First was misfire on cylinder #2 next was #4. Turned out to be a bad computer. Rep[laced it and it runs fine now.
3. Had the tranny rebuilt and the common clutch piston sheer was the issue. My father rebuilt it so I'm confident he was telling me the truth since he earned only my gratitude.
4.Sway bar was busted.
5. Buy better brake hardware. Use your emergecy brake every time you park because this is the way Ford has designed them to adjust the back brakes.
6. Ford sux. Buy a Chevy or Dodge next time. That's MY plan.
Yeah...I sure don't see rapid brake wear. Our front brakes have lasted about 50,000 mi, they have been replaced twice at Ford dealer. Original rear brakes lasted about 95,000 mi. Recently replaced at same time as second set of fronts.
(This all happened at same time) Ok, I have my ABS light on, my air conditioning does not work, my cruise control does not work, and my odometer and speedometer does not work. Now, I replaced fuse 10 in the fuse panel just left of the brake pedal. Everything works except for Cruise Control :confuse: .
After while The fuse would blow again, I tried this a few times and there is no pacific time it does go. So, I checked all the wiring, that I could see (I do not know much of anything about vehicles - I know how to change a tire, hehehehehe) nothing seems to be broken or frayed. Also, I looked for leaks, like the master cylinder leaking on wires and melting the sheathing down till they short, but nothing there, everything seems pretty dry in there. (Under the hood and down by my feet).
(Is this True)
Then, I was told it could be a relay in the fuse box in the cab. I was told to replace the blown fuse (10), then start the vehicle and turn my A/C up full blast and to make sure to monitor the relays for how hot they might get. Supposedly a bad relay will get hot before it blows a fuse. I did this and one got a little hot (R2) and the one above it got Hotter(R1). So, if I replace this hot relay will that stop my fuses from blowing?????? Is this all true or hog wash?
I still have now clue how to fix my Cruise Control, but, I am not worried about it, as long as I get my speedometer and odometer fixed.
I am new to this forum, so any help is greatly appreciated.
Thank You
Wayne
Now the ac isn't blowing cold and I am wondering if I can use a recharge kit from autozone to fix it? I don't know what type of refrigerant it has? Any thoughts?
As for the AC. I recharged mine and it blows 47 degree air. You can go to Auto Zone to pick up the R134a and a filler hose. I recommend one with a guage. You shouldn't put more than 2 cans in unless it's bone dry. Walmart also has the stuff for cheaper than auto zone.
However, the injector didn't fix the problem. I replaced the computer and it was fixed. 3 weeks later it did the same thing and said misfire #4. I drove it for another week and it stopped. I'm thinking another bad computer but I could be wrong.