challiday, The leak is the intake manifold if it is the 3.1 L engine. It is common and there is a service bulletin out for an updated intake gasket. These will NOT be covered under warranty, unless you have an extended warranty and only if you are within the warranty period. You can have these done at an independant shop and if they need the full text of the TSBs, let me know and I may be able to provide them for you.
#03-06-01-010B Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) - (Oct 24, 2003)
#03-06-01-016 Loss of Coolant, Milky Colored Oil (Replace Intermediate Intake Gasket) - (May 21, 2003)
The steering clunk is also covered under a TSB.
#01-02-32-001C Clunk Noise from Front of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft) - (Sep 12, 2003)
#00-08-61-003 Clunk/Pop Noise From Front of Vehicle (Shim Rear Frame/Cradle Mounts) - (Oct 17, 2000)
I have a 2001 LS with heated leather seats. Has anyone had problems with the driver side heated seat (i.e., the heat). Mine was working fine until a month ago. Is there a TSB on this? Am I looking for major repair? Can the heater be replaced by a DIY mechanic? Thanks in advance for any input to my problem.
No, there is now TSB. Yes, it is something a DIYer can do, PROVIDED that you do not have side impact air bags, which your vehicle shouldn't have them.
Everything is under the seat. There is a heater control module, a relay and the switch. Any one of those could be the problem. Unfortunately, you need to have access to the trouble shooting info for it and it covers about 20 pages.
Yesterday I drove the car around town and it started just fine. Then at the end of the day I went to put the key in the Ignition and the key would not turn. I turned the key around and even tied the spare key and it did not work. I turned the steering wheel back and forth and the key still would not turn.
Anyone else heard of this problem? I notified the NHTSA of this problem.
2000 Base Impala with approx 84k miles. Transmission started having late shifts and i hear something that sounds like the belt squeaking. Not sure if i need a new belt, pulley tensioner and tranny or if there is another reason or fix.
I had water coming in on my passenger side foot well also. Taking it to dealer next week looks like windshield leak. I did dry my carpet and foam by using a blow dryer. I pulled up the carpeting as far as it would go and very patiently worked the entire area. I t did take some time but it worked. Need to give the blow dryer adequate ventillation...dont bury it in a nook or cranny. Keep it back some so it doesnt overheat. Good Luck.
My wife cannot see when backing her LS with rear deck spoiler, tried to remove it but it seems to be glued on? Any suggestions on how to get that thing off?
Notice Use of harsh chemicals when cleaning can damage exterior lamps. Suggested cleaners are a mild soap and water, or Varnish Makers and Painters (VM&P) Naptha. VM&P Naptha is a specific type of naptha and should not be substituted by any other naptha.
Open the rear compartment. Remove the nuts from the rear end spoiler studs. Heat the rear end spoiler mounting points from the inside, using J 25070 152 mm (6 in) from surface. Apply heat using a circular motion for about 30 seconds. Remove the rear end spoiler from the rear compartment lid surface using a small wood or plastic flat-bladed tool. Do NOT damage the paint. Remove the rear end spoiler from the rear compartment lid. Clean the rear end spoiler adhesive from the rear compartment lid and/or the rear end spoiler using 3M™ Scotch Brite molding adhesive remover disk, 3M™ P/N 07501, or equivalent. Clean the body panel using VM&P Naphtha in order to remove any adhesive. Wipe the surface dry with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Installation Procedure
Warm the rear compartment lid with J 25070 from the outside, to a minimum of 21°C (70°F).
Important Do not touch the adhesive backing.
Peel the backing from the mounting surfaces of the rear end spoiler. Align the rear end spoiler studs to the holes in the rear compartment lid. Install the rear end spoiler to the rear compartment lid, pressing into place until the adhesive is fully seated. Open the rear compartment.
Notice Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Important Use new nuts/mastic washers in order to avoid a possible water leak.
Install the nuts to the rear end spoiler. Tighten Tighten the rear end spoiler nuts to 6 N·m (53 lb in). Close the rear compartment.
You do understand that there will screw holes in the trunk when you remove the spoiler? Should you decide to remove the spoiler and wish to sell it, I would be interested in it, if it is a 2001 or 2002.
I was going to pay off my Impala as we needed to replace our '93 Subaru Impreza and bought a new Toyota. But with the coolant leak problem evident in our 2000 base Impala, plus a couple visits to fix some clunking...I decided to visit this site and see what was up. What an education. Read all 40 pages and appreciate the insight (and exasperation) and now have concerns whether my "prudent" financial plan to pay off one car and have only one car payment is a good one. Especially considering that I'm probably looking at a possible repair bill with combined problems of about $1500-$2000. And with little confidence that will solve the problems for good.
My plan is to approach the dealer where I bought the car and try to remediate the repair costs on the warped manifold. Anyone ever tried that? The Intermediate Steering Shaft needs to be replaced as well, I'm pretty sure. Wondering if anyone's ever tried to meet the dealer in the middle on any of these chronic problems.
On top of the reply posting, I would appreciate direct email replies from anyone willing to give some perspective.
A recall that may or may not apply to you. ----------------------------------------------------
Customer Satisfaction Program -- Engine Coolant Leak #03034 - (07/07/2003) 03034 - Engine Coolant Leak All 2000-2002 and Certain 2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue
Equipped with 3.8L V6 Engine (RPO L36 - VIN Code K) THIS RECALL IS IN EFFECT UNTIL JULY 31, 2005.
Condition General Motors has decided that all 2000-2002 and certain 2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue model vehicles equipped with 3.8L (RPO L36 - VIN Code K) engines, may have a condition in which engine coolant may leak at the upper intake manifold throttle body gasket, or at the upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold gasket. This condition may result in a low engine coolant level and higher engine operating temperatures.
Correction Dealers are to replace the three throttle body fastener nuts and add cooling system sealant to the radiator tank.
Vehicles Involved Involved are all 2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue model vehicles equipped with 3.8L (RPO L36 - VIN Code K) engines and built within these VIN breakpoints:
Year Division Model From Through 2000 Chevrolet Impala Y9100001 - Y9385472 2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Y9100297 - Y9385464 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix YF100033 - YF353313 2000 Pontiac Bonneville Y4101040 - Y4297271 2000 Buick Regal Y1100004 - Y1304443 2000 Buick LeSabre Y4100001 - Y4297273 YU100001 - YU357893 2000 Buick Park Avenue Y4100095 - Y4297269 2001 Chevrolet Impala 19100001 - 19378249 2001 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 19100004 - 19378234 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 1F100004 - 1F275188 2001 Pontiac Bonneville 14100001 - 14298963 2001 Buick Regal 11100001 - 11338085 2001 Buick LeSabre 14108500 - 14298966 1U100003 - 1U302094 2001 Buick Park Avenue 14108918 - 14298968 2002 Chevrolet Impala 29100002 - 29391929 2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 29100018 - 29391931 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix 2F100016 - 2F293267 2002 Pontiac Bonneville 24100001 - 24245293 2002 Buick Regal 21100001 - 21301745 2002 Buick LeSabre 24100011 - 24245292 2U100001 - 2U306396 2002 Buick Park Avenue 24100009 - 24245294 2003 Chevrolet Impala 39100002 - 39360495 2003 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 39100018 - 39360489 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix 3F100002 - 3F181300 2003 Pontiac Bonneville 34100002 - 34180189 2003 Buick Regal 31100001 - 31275410 2003 Buick LeSabre 34100001 - 34180190 3U100002 - 3U251518 2003 Buick Park Avenue 34100004 - 34180177
Important Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) or GM Access Screen (Canada only) or DCS Screen 445 (IPC only) prior to beginning program repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the program bulletin. The customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the program bulletin has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information Parts required to complete this program are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering requirements. Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
This is not a recall, but a TSB and unless under warranty, your cost, but far cheaper than a manifold and more often the problem.
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) #03-06-01-010B - (10/24/2003) Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) 2000-2003 Buick Century 2002-2003 Buick Rendezvous 1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV 1997-2003 Chevrolet Venture 1999-2001 Chevrolet Lumina 1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu, Monte Carlo 2000-2003 Chevrolet Impala 1996-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette 1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero 1996-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport 1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am, Montana 2000-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix 2001-2003 Pontiac Aztek with 3.1L or 3.4L V-6 Engine (VINs J, E - RPOs LG8, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to change the model Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-010A (Section 06 - Engine).
Condition Some owners may comment on an apparent oil or coolant leak. Additionally, the comments may range from spots on the driveway to having to add fluids.
Cause Intake manifold may be leaking allowing coolant, oil or both to leak from the engine.
Correction Install a new design intake manifold gasket. The material used in the gasket has been changed in order to improve the sealing qualities of the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the intake manifold bolts must also be replaced and torqued to a revised specification. The new bolts will come with a pre-applied threadlocker on them.
I'm doing some research for my husband's niece who bought my 2001 Impala Sedan (with optional 3.8L engine)a few months ago. The car currently has 40,000+ miles. She has had problems with the power steering fluid leaking and needing refilled frequently. Also, just recently when she was checking the oil a fire occurred in the engine. She was told the spark plugs caught on fire. The car had been shut off for several minutes. Apparently, she is getting confusing opinions about all of this. I'm hoping someone may be able to help her and me both out. Thanks in advance.
My Impala is a 2001, bought new in Oct 2000. About 2 weeks ago I started having problems with the radio. Sometimes,when I first turn on the radio, no sound comes out for up to 2-3 minutes. Then the sound may cut out and come back. Other times,the radio comes right on and then cuts out and comes back. Usually after about 15 minutes, it doesn't do this. Other times when I turn the radio on its fine.
This abnormal behaviour isn't confined to the radio, as I have tested the tape and CD player, when the sound is dead to see if its just the radio. The same abnormality affects those as well, until the sound comes on. I haven't called the dealer, due to just being busy.
I had a similar problem 2 years ago on my base Impala. It turned out to be a Short circuit behind the radio in the dash. The wiring harness can be caught on something and perforated with the exposed wires causing the radio to intermittantly heat up.
Open the Dash trim plate (instructions on www.impalahq.com) Remove the radio (dont worry, it wont lock itself) Inspect the wiring harness and look for a bent section, or broken section. Cover the exposed wires with electrical tape. You can then also use 99cent wiring loom to cover it better. Reinstall radio, and dash trim. It should work fine after you find the short in the wiring harness.
On advice both from this forum and the dealer service representative, I did call Chevy's customer service line and reached a helpful but somewhat helpless representative who called the dealer.
The confusing thing here is the difference in recalls between 3.4 and 3.8 model engines. Apparently from what I can ascertain GM has issued recall notices for the 3.8 but nothing for the 3.4 before 2001. But that makes no sense to me.
At this juncture I will be paying $800 today for the replacement of lower manifold intake gasket and (thanks to advice of this forum) the Intermediate Steering problem so often referenced.
I appreciate everyone's perspective here, and advice, which have enabled me to pursue an informed (if still naive on my part) resolution to this problem of leaking engine coolant.
I pitched the dealer service guy on splitting the cost of labor on the job. Hmmmm. Chevy USA guy seems to affirm there is no recall covering the 2000 model year 3.4 engine.
It sounds like you have a leak on the high pressure side of your power steering pump. When the wheels are straight it won't leak, but turn the wheels and a highly volatile stream of power steering fluid will shoot around a hot engine compartment. Not a good situation! This is not a problem with Impalas as far as I know, but I have had this problem on Fords and Chryslers. For some reason they can't make high pressure lines that can take a bazillion degrees of heat without breaking down ;-)
Get it checked right away, and not at whereever they told her the spark plugs were on fire! Good grief!
Thank You for the suggestion. I will check it out. Yesterday, the radio when turned on wouldn't play at all for up to 15-20 minutes when I turned it on. Then all of a sudden, it would come to life and play ok before cutting out and coming back in a minute or so.
Ok, I'm trying to replace the big air filter on the right (facing the front) side of the car. I undo the clips on top of the box. What's next. How do I get that cover off? It seems attached by screws or bolts on the bottom. Thanks.
With 3.4L engine: Air Cleaner Element Replacement Removal Procedure Turn OFF the ignition. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor. Disconnect the breather tube from the air intake duct. Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor. Loosen the air intake duct/MAF sensor hose clamps. Carefully remove the air inlet hose from the throttle body and air cleaner cover. Remove the 2 housing cover retaining clamps. Remove the air cleaner cover and carefully remove the air filter element. Inspect the housing cover, seal assembly, and air duct for damage.
Installation Procedure
Carefully install the air filter element into the air cleaner assembly. Install the housing cover and install the housing cover retaining screws. Carefully install the air inlet hose to the throttle body and air cleaner cover. Tighten the air inlet hose clamp. Install the air intake duct/MAF sensor assembly. Tighten the air intake duct/MAF sensor hose clamps. Connect the breather tube to the air intake duct. Connect the MAF sensor. Connect the IAT sensor .
With 3.8L engine: Air Cleaner Element Replacement Removal Procedure Turn OFF the ignition. Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector. Loosen the air intake duct hose clamps. Remove the air intake duct. Unclip the two air cleaner cover retaining clamps. Remove the air cleaner cover and carefully remove the air filter element. Inspect the housing cover, seal assembly, and air ducting for damage. If a problem is found, replace as necessary.
Installation Procedure
Carefully install the air filter element into the air cleaner assembly. Install the air cleaner housing cover and reclip the housing cover retaining clamps. Carefully reinstall the air inlet hose to the throttle body and the air cleaner cover. Install the air inlet hose clamp. Connect the IAT sensor electrical connector.
Anyone else had the black facing come off the buttons on their factory-installed radio. Also, the AM/FM switch is bent and barely works. But the white plastic facing is showing through and it's pretty ugly.
The "Seek and Search" toggle on our 2003 Impala LS gets so hot, I can barely stand to touch it as does the indented area directly under the row of toggles that looks like it was intended for a tape player. Has anyone else had this problem? It doesn't seem to matter if the heat or A/C is on as it gets hot to the touch no matter what the conditions. Even the knobs get hot! Help! Too Hot To Handle!
Just found out today that my 2002 3.4 liter with 40,000 miles has the bad manifold gasket problem, ISS, and motor mount clunk. Apparently they didn't get their problems fixed after the 2001 model. Since they only acknowledge the coolant leak on the 3.8 I will be responsible for this. The clunking started at 36,200 miles and isn't covered under the useless extended warranty either. I hate my car today.
Purchased a brand new 2001 LS full load with sunroof in July 2001. Since then have had the following problems; 1)Antifreeze leak repaired at 27,000,30,000 & 35,000 miles. still continues to slowly go down. dealer says "Normal evaporation" 2)entire steering gear replaced at 27,000,34,000 & 35,000 miles. Dealer says just bad luck with the remanufactured warranty parts that they use. Agreed to extend the warranty on the steering gear only to 48,000 miles.
3) vehicle currently has 37,380 miles & i just got it back from the dealer where,under warranty,they replaced the catalytic convertor. It was plugged & the car would not go more than 30 MPH.Catalytics should last at least 150,000 miles. if i would have had to pay for all the repairs done on my new car the past 2 1/2 years it would have cost me over $5,000. Nice looking car,love the heated leather seats but I now accept that they are complete pieces of junk & I have it listed and priced to sellASAP. Caveat Emptor.
I have an '00 Malibu LS with the 3.1L V-6, which also had the intake manifold gasket problem last summer (GM is WELL AWARE of the problem with 3.1s and 3.4s). I have the GMPP ext. warranty as well and it covered the entire cost, plus car rental. Tab would have been over $1200.
You need to call GMPP directly. I've done that lately, and you get much farther than letting the dealer call it in (some also claim to but don't even bother to call to get more from you).
Ariella may not have GMPP. Major guard should cover her problem. If she bought another company's contract, she may indeed be shucks out of luck. You can read my (and other's) rants about service contracts in the warranty section.
Ariella: you may try going to your selling dealer and ask for goodwill assistance for this repair. They are not required to help you, but if you've had service work done there, they may be willing to pay for the repair, or go 50/50 on it with you.
Took my '01 LS in for its 100,000km service yesterday. Two of my "complaints" were clunking steering and coolant smell. I now have a new upper intake manifold and I'll have a new ISS as soon as they get the parts. Both are covered under my extended warranty.
I guess the interim "fix" for the manifold doesn't always work (had it done several months ago), and the ISS lube isn't a permanent fix (they said the knuckle was worn??).
It will be interesting to see if GM has managed to permanently fix these issues on the newer Impalas. I hope so, because I really do love this car, and I want to buy another one in a couple of years.
Car steers like new now! Had to get another coolant leak fixed as well. Looks like they over-tightened a clamp and cracked a plastic hose when putting everything back together after installing the new manifold.
The invoice cost for all this stuff was over CDN$1,600 - makes me very happy that I purchased the extended warranty! It has now paid for itself more than twice over between this series of repairs and the front wheel bearings.
Even with these problems, I still love my Impala! Brad
Can someone tell me what the average cost is to have the brake rotors replaced by the dealer? Our '01 LS just had the rotors turned for the 2nd time and the technician left a note on the slip saying they would need replacement the next time. 29k on the car. Still rides great.
Hey, Our Impala is an 01 also. They turned our rotors 2 times under warranty. Then once when I was out of town they turned them for my wife for 99.00. (big waste of a hundred bucks).
Anyway, do yourself a favor do not have your rotors replaced by the dealer. If you want the dealer to install the rotors that would be ok, but bring him the rotors that you want to use, and don't use OEM replacement.
I got raybestos severe duty rotors and ceramic pads and let me tell you what that was the best thing I ever did for the car. I took my parts to a local and trusted brake shop and he installed everything for 40.00. I'm not sure how much a dealer would charge if you brought him all the parts.
Assuming the dealer is the only person you trust right now for your brakes, then sure have the dealer do it but bring him in 2 rotors and 2 sets of pads that you have picked out and bought yourself and you will be very happy with how long your brakes last!
Well, my 2000 LS has 90,000Km's. After approx 4 years, its time to move on to something Much Better and More Reliable.
The vehicle has, the Clunk in the steering wheel (ISS), and this morning, GM notified me when they were performing an oil change that there are two leaks, one with the upper manifold, the other, I don't remember or care. It would cost me 1,100 dollars to repair. After 90,000km's, that is a complete farce a vehicle has that many problems. I have service records, tons of them.
I was faithful for 4 years, even after a power steering cooling line exploded and the alternator crapped out, I merely shrugged it off as "oh well, stuff happens". This latest is the last of the gong show that I will put up with.
Wife has a 2002 Honda Accord, and drives like a dream, fit and finish is superb. I will probably purchase a used but newer Accord or Civic as well.
Hope all of you enjoy the domestic farce, for a while I did, but then reality set in
Hi gang, new update on my 2003 ls. If you remember i had filed under my states lemon law. 7 sets on rotors in the first year which i did do a lot of driving i might add. 51k miles. gm was ordered to buy back my ls. i just bought an ss. i get it in a couple of days. anyone have anything to say about them? good or bad....
First off wanted to say hi to evryone being Iam a new member and all. Ok wanted to ask some questions and hoping to get some answers :}. Please hang with me because Iam new to installing amplifiers and speakers, and Iam not very good at explaining things. Ok now that that is set aside my system consists of a Boss rip 795 amplifier with theses specs.
Sound Output Mode - Stereo Sound Effects - Bass Boost Controls - Subwoofer level Signal-To-Noise Ratio - 105 dB Continuous Power / Channel Qty - 150 Watts x 4 Amplifier Output - 4-channel High Level Inputs - Yes Crossover - 2-way active crossover Phase Selector - Yes Bass Boost Gain - 0 to +18dB Distortion Factor - 0.01% Amplifier Output Details - 150 Watt - 4 Ohm - THD 0.01% - 4 channel(s) ¦ 300 Watt - 2 Ohm - 4 channel(s) ¦ 600 Watt - 2 channel(s) Additional Features - Input level controls, cooling fan, VU meter Connector Type - 2 x audio line-in ( RCA phono x 2 ) ¦ 1 x audio line-out ( RCA phono x 2 ) ¦ 4 x speakers input ¦ 4 x speakers output
Speakers Specs DUAL 12" Bandpass Box Made of 3/4" Thickness MDF Board Black capeted exterior, light gray carpeted and mirrored interior Two C4-Audio 12" 600 watts/each Dual Voice Coil Subwoofers with Rubber Ring,frequency: 20Hz~500Hz
Two chrome spring connection terminals
Four 5"x4" Chrome Port Tubes
Dimensions: 30 "(W) x 14 1/2"(H) x 16 1/2"(D)
My problem is that I hooked up the line level converter to the amp correctly i think. and the amp to my 2 12" c4 audio woofers,there is bass but it doesnt seem like enough bass. The amp i think is only putting out half of what it should be or atleast sounding that way. I tried different settings on the head unit but nothing more. Oh the converter btw was installed left and right output. I dont know now what is going on they should be louder and I was hoping maybe someone could give me some advice as to what may be wrong. Any ideas or suggestions would be great. Thanks for any help given.
I bought my 2000 Impala because I wanted the biggest, safest, most fuel-efficient car I could afford (following a run in between my Celica and a Lincoln Navigator). Granted, by virtue of having about $3,000 of GM Card earnings, I limited my search to GM products, but by far at that point the Impala was the best all-around choice. Sure I've had the same problems everyone else with a 2000 model has had (popping cradle, intermediate steering shaft, warped rotors, leaking 3.8l intake manifold, etc.), but overall I'm still very happy with the car.
I was most letdown by the manifold leak, because one of the reasons I bought the car was for the "bullet-proof" 3.8l engine. I figured I didn't have to worry about the engine or drivetrain, but that wasn't the case. I'm at 64,000 miles now, and plan to drive the car for at least another 4 years.
Given a choice between driving my Impala and my wife's 2003 Accord EX, I'd take the Impala hands down. It feels safer, it gets about the same gas mileage on the highway, and it's more comfortable (especially on long trips). I've been following this board for over 4 years now, and I've seen a lot of people come and go. But as I stated from the beginning, when I buy a car, I plan to keep it for 8-10 years. As a result, I don't expect to get anything for the car in terms of resale value; I looked for a car that will fill my needs now, as well as several years down the road. I paid it off last year, so if I can drive it for another 64,000 miles with only the occasional malfunction, I'll be content.
I'm reading about the few problems that others have encountered with the 3.8L manifold, steering column, etc. Does this also apply to the 04 SS?
I'm thinking of leasing one. I love the car otherwise. I think its a classic and my first car was a 64 Impala, Has anyone here had experience with this car? Except for the supercharger; I think the engine and manifold are probably the same.
Replaced all my bulbs yesterday in anticipation of bad weather this week in SE. PA.
HOwever, found one of the foglamp housings was shattered, had to duct tape it back into place. Any one know a good place to order used GM parts on-line?
The Impala SS does not have any of the issues as the LS has with the manifold. The engine is the same one that they use in the Buick Regal GS. Because of the better parts and design differences they use with the supercharger there does not seem to be the issues of the warped intake manifold/gaskets as there is with the LS.
I'd say you could buy the Impala SS with confidence, its a tried and true engine.
If you want used then probably your best bet would be your local salvage yards. I like the "U-Pull" ones where they let you wander the yard and get the part yourself. Those are getting harder to find though with insurance regulations.
If you want a new one then I can tell you that the people over at partszoneonline are very helpful. I have used them and also I have personally used these places with no problems whatsoever: www.rockauto.com www.gmpart.com and www.gmpartsdirect.com. You can't go wrong with any of those 4 but some are cheaper than others and some have better shipping rates than others. partszoneonline seems to be very friendly and helpful but then again rockauto.com has a very cool parts catalog online that saves a lot of time.
That is encouraging. What about the ISS and rotor problem.
I think I should just go ahead and buy this darn thing. Do you think they will produce it for a few more years like they did in the nineties or change it some more. I saw a Super Sport of the future on one of the auto shows sites and it was very modern.
The Rotors will still probably be soft and warp and what I would do is just get them fixed under warranty ("goodwill") item because they are technically not covered but I did get my rotors turned 2 times for free.
Then you can go out and get some Raybestos Super Stop Severe Duty Rotors with Ceramic Pads and never have another problem again.
I think that that you could be hit and miss with the ISS Issue, for sure have it checked before you hit the end of the warranty even if you don't feel anything wrong in the front end. I do think that they have resolved the problem, I had it fixed under warranty and now am at 75,000 and haven't had a problem since.
As far as the new model. I have heard that maybe there would be a new impala for 2006. I haven't seen anything from GM on it though.
I guess it just depends on how long you plan on keeping your car and your own personal taste as to whether you go for it now or wait or buy or lease.
Well my '01 Impala LS had the Check Engine light come on. My mechanic told me not to worry - related to emissions. Light went out after a day. Came on again - I called Chevy dealership - told me probably related to gas cap wait a week. Light went out after 2 days. it came on a 3rd time - about 8 weeks later. Stopped by the Chevy dealership and was told - let gas tank get below 1/2 full mark, the computer will run a diagnostic. They have had problems with the computer signaling a loose gas cap. Sure enough at the 1/2 mark the light went out. If the light was flashing or I had poor performance - then I was advised to get service ASAP.
At 75,000+ miles (bought the car from the dealer used - Fleet rental - yeah I know never buy fleet rentals - but I really liked the car). Coolant leak due to misaligned hose - fixed by dealer under warranty. So far I had the ISS and manifold leak problems serviced under dealer warranty. New brakes at 50,000mi, oil change every 3600 mi. or so. Broken outer tirerod, replace wipers, and one fog lamp. The lamp by the electrical outlet on the center console is out.
The ride is better then my old Mustang (and the Impala is faster -the Mustang was a disaster mechanically by 60,000mi.) and it is better then my wife's '00 Accord LX. The Accord is quicker on the pickup but it is a busy ride and noisy. Everyone prefers to go on long trips in the Impala rather then the Accord.
I just bought a 2004 LS. The car is awesome, but I'm a bit concerned about the 3 Impala problems that the early 2000 models had. Does anybody know if the problems have been worked out for the manifold leak, steering column, and rotor problems for the newer cars? Thanks!
I'd say that you are probably going to be fine on 2 out of the 3 problems.
I say this because I think that your car was probably manufactured after the recall on the manifold. You might want to ask your service advisor if your car needs the recall done or not just to be safe.
The ISS issue GM says is fixed with a new lube kit but I would deffinately have it looked at before your warranty expires, whether you feel anything in the front end or not.
The rotors are most likely going to warp. If your brake pedal starts pulsing let them fix it for free a few times then get some really good rotors like I did. I got the Raybestos Superstop Severe Duty Rotors with Ceramic Pads and have not had a problem whatsoever since.
My car is a 2001 and I don't regret anything about it, had the ISS done under warranty, the manifold recall done, and the only thing that I have spent money on was the great set of rotors and pads. I have 75,000 + miles.
Thanks ghostwolf, your advise is much appreciated. I will talk to my service folks when I go in for my first oil change, hopefully he will give me good news about any fixes. In fact, when I get this information, I will share it with everybody here.
Hi All, I'm new here. I'm shopping for a 2nd car (family car), my wife drives a Camry. Nothing is ever wrong with the Camry that we have, however, I need something roomier, more power, can accommodate 4-5 adults AND must have decent Consumer Report reliability predictor (Impala fits the bill on paper for 2002-03 models, and presumably 2004). I'm looking for value (reasonable price and willing to buy used for 2002-03 models only.) So, what prices did you all pay for your cars, please specify city/state/year/model (base/LS/SS)/price/new or used, if used state mileage at purchase/also would you buy it again or what would you recommend. Sorry, lengthy, but need to get as much user info as I can.
Can somebody provide me with the latest specifications (alignment specs) for the front and rear end of my Chevy Impala. I did find out that they are the same since 2000 until 2004. GM says go to the garage to get the specs and I overheard the garageman say they don't really know the specs, they just guess at it. I'd like to know the original specs. that GM provides for the Impala front end alignment before I go to the garage so I know they're doing it right. Thanks
Comments
The leak is the intake manifold if it is the 3.1 L engine. It is common and there is a service bulletin out for an updated intake gasket.
These will NOT be covered under warranty, unless you have an extended warranty and only if you are within the warranty period.
You can have these done at an independant shop and if they need the full text of the TSBs, let me know and I may be able to provide them for you.
#03-06-01-010B Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) - (Oct 24, 2003)
#03-06-01-016 Loss of Coolant, Milky Colored Oil (Replace Intermediate Intake Gasket) - (May 21, 2003)
The steering clunk is also covered under a TSB.
#01-02-32-001C Clunk Noise from Front of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver/Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate Intermediate Shaft) - (Sep 12, 2003)
#00-08-61-003 Clunk/Pop Noise From Front of Vehicle (Shim Rear Frame/Cradle Mounts) - (Oct 17, 2000)
Yes, it is something a DIYer can do, PROVIDED that you do not have side impact air bags, which your vehicle shouldn't have them.
Everything is under the seat. There is a heater control module, a relay and the switch. Any one of those could be the problem.
Unfortunately, you need to have access to the trouble shooting info for it and it covers about 20 pages.
Anyone else heard of this problem? I notified the NHTSA of this problem.
TIA
2002 Chevrolet Impala
Spoiler Replacement - Rear Impala
Tools Required
J 25070 Heat Gun
Removal Procedure
Notice
Use of harsh chemicals when cleaning can damage exterior lamps. Suggested cleaners are a mild soap and water, or Varnish Makers and Painters (VM&P) Naptha. VM&P Naptha is a specific type of naptha and should not be substituted by any other naptha.
Open the rear compartment.
Remove the nuts from the rear end spoiler studs.
Heat the rear end spoiler mounting points from the inside, using J 25070 152 mm (6 in) from surface. Apply heat using a circular motion for about 30 seconds.
Remove the rear end spoiler from the rear compartment lid surface using a small wood or plastic flat-bladed tool. Do NOT damage the paint.
Remove the rear end spoiler from the rear compartment lid.
Clean the rear end spoiler adhesive from the rear compartment lid and/or the rear end spoiler using 3M™ Scotch Brite molding adhesive remover disk, 3M™ P/N 07501, or equivalent.
Clean the body panel using VM&P Naphtha in order to remove any adhesive. Wipe the surface dry with a clean, lint-free cloth.
Installation Procedure
Warm the rear compartment lid with J 25070 from the outside, to a minimum of 21°C (70°F).
Important
Do not touch the adhesive backing.
Peel the backing from the mounting surfaces of the rear end spoiler.
Align the rear end spoiler studs to the holes in the rear compartment lid.
Install the rear end spoiler to the rear compartment lid, pressing into place until the adhesive is fully seated.
Open the rear compartment.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Important
Use new nuts/mastic washers in order to avoid a possible water leak.
Install the nuts to the rear end spoiler. Tighten
Tighten the rear end spoiler nuts to 6 N·m (53 lb in).
Close the rear compartment.
Should you decide to remove the spoiler and wish to sell it, I would be interested in it, if it is a 2001 or 2002.
Today while driving to work i felt a slight surging in 3rd and 4th gear.
Checked the trans fluid and it was brown.
(isn't there a TSB for this?)
Anyway took it to the dealer and the solenoid was sticking. Needs to be replaced $1170!!!
This is a 29 month old car with 52K miles.
My plan is to approach the dealer where I bought the car and try to remediate the repair costs on the warped manifold. Anyone ever tried that? The Intermediate Steering Shaft needs to be replaced as well, I'm pretty sure. Wondering if anyone's ever tried to meet the dealer in the middle on any of these chronic problems.
On top of the reply posting, I would appreciate direct email replies from anyone willing to give some perspective.
clee@heraldcity.com
It is a recall.
I asked why there would be a recall on later models than 2000 when the problem was the same in earlier models that 2001-2003, and he shrugged it off.
I'm going to press the issue, for sure.
----------------------------------------------------
Customer Satisfaction Program -- Engine Coolant Leak #03034 - (07/07/2003)
03034 - Engine Coolant Leak
All 2000-2002 and Certain 2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue
Equipped with 3.8L V6 Engine (RPO L36 - VIN Code K)
THIS RECALL IS IN EFFECT UNTIL JULY 31, 2005.
Condition
General Motors has decided that all 2000-2002 and certain 2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue model vehicles equipped with 3.8L (RPO L36 - VIN Code K) engines, may have a condition in which engine coolant may leak at the upper intake manifold throttle body gasket, or at the upper intake manifold to lower intake manifold gasket. This condition may result in a low engine coolant level and higher engine operating temperatures.
Correction
Dealers are to replace the three throttle body fastener nuts and add cooling system sealant to the radiator tank.
Vehicles Involved
Involved are all 2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; Pontiac Grand Prix, Bonneville; and Buick Regal, LeSabre, Park Avenue model vehicles equipped with 3.8L (RPO L36 - VIN Code K) engines and built within these VIN breakpoints:
Year Division Model From Through
2000 Chevrolet Impala Y9100001 - Y9385472
2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Y9100297 - Y9385464
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix YF100033 - YF353313
2000 Pontiac Bonneville Y4101040 - Y4297271
2000 Buick Regal Y1100004 - Y1304443
2000 Buick LeSabre Y4100001 - Y4297273
YU100001 - YU357893
2000 Buick Park Avenue Y4100095 - Y4297269
2001 Chevrolet Impala 19100001 - 19378249
2001 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 19100004 - 19378234
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 1F100004 - 1F275188
2001 Pontiac Bonneville 14100001 - 14298963
2001 Buick Regal 11100001 - 11338085
2001 Buick LeSabre 14108500 - 14298966
1U100003 - 1U302094
2001 Buick Park Avenue 14108918 - 14298968
2002 Chevrolet Impala 29100002 - 29391929
2002 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 29100018 - 29391931
2002 Pontiac Grand Prix 2F100016 - 2F293267
2002 Pontiac Bonneville 24100001 - 24245293
2002 Buick Regal 21100001 - 21301745
2002 Buick LeSabre 24100011 - 24245292
2U100001 - 2U306396
2002 Buick Park Avenue 24100009 - 24245294
2003 Chevrolet Impala 39100002 - 39360495
2003 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 39100018 - 39360489
2003 Pontiac Grand Prix 3F100002 - 3F181300
2003 Pontiac Bonneville 34100002 - 34180189
2003 Buick Regal 31100001 - 31275410
2003 Buick LeSabre 34100001 - 34180190
3U100002 - 3U251518
2003 Buick Park Avenue 34100004 - 34180177
Important
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through GMVIS (GM Vehicle Inquiry System) or GM Access Screen (Canada only) or DCS Screen 445 (IPC only) prior to beginning program repairs. [Not all vehicles within the above breakpoints may be involved.]
Computer listings containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the program bulletin. The customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow up with customers involved in this program. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the program bulletin has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from Motor Vehicle Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data for any other purpose is a violation of law in several states/provinces/countries. Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this program.
Parts Information
Parts required to complete this program are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" before ordering requirements. Normal orders should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency situation, parts should be ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket) #03-06-01-010B - (10/24/2003)
Engine Oil or Coolant Leak (Install New Intake Manifold Gasket)
2000-2003 Buick Century
2002-2003 Buick Rendezvous
1996 Chevrolet Lumina APV
1997-2003 Chevrolet Venture
1999-2001 Chevrolet Lumina
1999-2003 Chevrolet Malibu, Monte Carlo
2000-2003 Chevrolet Impala
1996-2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1999 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1999-2003 Oldsmobile Alero
1996-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport
1999-2003 Pontiac Grand Am, Montana
2000-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
2001-2003 Pontiac Aztek
with 3.1L or 3.4L V-6 Engine (VINs J, E - RPOs LG8, LA1)
This bulletin is being revised to change the model Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-06-01-010A (Section 06 - Engine).
Condition
Some owners may comment on an apparent oil or coolant leak. Additionally, the comments may range from spots on the driveway to having to add fluids.
Cause
Intake manifold may be leaking allowing coolant, oil or both to leak from the engine.
Correction
Install a new design intake manifold gasket. The material used in the gasket has been changed in order to improve the sealing qualities of the gasket. When replacing the gasket, the intake manifold bolts must also be replaced and torqued to a revised specification. The new bolts will come with a pre-applied threadlocker on them.
This abnormal behaviour isn't confined to the radio, as I have tested the tape and CD player, when the sound is dead to see if its just the radio. The same abnormality affects those as well, until the sound comes on. I haven't called the dealer, due to just being busy.
Any suggestions, comments appreciated.
Open the Dash trim plate (instructions on www.impalahq.com)
Remove the radio (dont worry, it wont lock itself)
Inspect the wiring harness and look for a bent section, or broken section. Cover the exposed wires with electrical tape. You can then also use 99cent wiring loom to cover it better.
Reinstall radio, and dash trim. It should work fine after you find the short in the wiring harness.
The confusing thing here is the difference in recalls between 3.4 and 3.8 model engines. Apparently from what I can ascertain GM has issued recall notices for the 3.8 but nothing for the 3.4 before 2001. But that makes no sense to me.
At this juncture I will be paying $800 today for the replacement of lower manifold intake gasket and (thanks to advice of this forum) the Intermediate Steering problem so often referenced.
I appreciate everyone's perspective here, and advice, which have enabled me to pursue an informed (if still naive on my part) resolution to this problem of leaking engine coolant.
I pitched the dealer service guy on splitting the cost of labor on the job. Hmmmm. Chevy USA guy seems to affirm there is no recall covering the 2000 model year 3.4 engine.
cc
Get it checked right away, and not at whereever they told her the spark plugs were on fire! Good grief!
Thank You for the suggestion. I will check it out. Yesterday, the radio when turned on wouldn't play at all for up to 15-20 minutes when I turned it on. Then all of a sudden, it would come to life and play ok before cutting out and coming back in a minute or so.
-EMTB
With 3.4L engine:
Air Cleaner Element Replacement
Removal Procedure
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor.
Disconnect the breather tube from the air intake duct.
Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
Loosen the air intake duct/MAF sensor hose clamps.
Carefully remove the air inlet hose from the throttle body and air cleaner cover.
Remove the 2 housing cover retaining clamps.
Remove the air cleaner cover and carefully remove the air filter element.
Inspect the housing cover, seal assembly, and air duct for damage.
Installation Procedure
Carefully install the air filter element into the air cleaner assembly.
Install the housing cover and install the housing cover retaining screws.
Carefully install the air inlet hose to the throttle body and air cleaner cover.
Tighten the air inlet hose clamp.
Install the air intake duct/MAF sensor assembly.
Tighten the air intake duct/MAF sensor hose clamps.
Connect the breather tube to the air intake duct.
Connect the MAF sensor.
Connect the IAT sensor .
With 3.8L engine:
Air Cleaner Element Replacement
Removal Procedure
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the IAT sensor electrical connector.
Loosen the air intake duct hose clamps.
Remove the air intake duct.
Unclip the two air cleaner cover retaining clamps.
Remove the air cleaner cover and carefully remove the air filter element.
Inspect the housing cover, seal assembly, and air ducting for damage. If a problem is found, replace as necessary.
Installation Procedure
Carefully install the air filter element into the air cleaner assembly.
Install the air cleaner housing cover and reclip the housing cover retaining clamps.
Carefully reinstall the air inlet hose to the throttle body and the air cleaner cover.
Install the air inlet hose clamp.
Connect the IAT sensor electrical connector.
1)Antifreeze leak repaired at 27,000,30,000 & 35,000 miles. still continues to slowly go down. dealer says "Normal evaporation"
2)entire steering gear replaced at 27,000,34,000 & 35,000 miles. Dealer says just bad luck with the remanufactured warranty parts that they use. Agreed to extend the warranty on the steering gear only to 48,000 miles.
3) vehicle currently has 37,380 miles & i just got it back from the dealer where,under warranty,they replaced the catalytic convertor. It was plugged & the car would not go more than 30 MPH.Catalytics should last at least 150,000 miles. if i would have had to pay for all the repairs done on my new car the past 2 1/2 years it would have cost me over $5,000.
Nice looking car,love the heated leather seats but I now accept that they are complete pieces of junk & I have it listed and priced to sellASAP.
Caveat Emptor.
You need to call GMPP directly. I've done that lately, and you get much farther than letting the dealer call it in (some also claim to but don't even bother to call to get more from you).
Good luck.
Ariella: you may try going to your selling dealer and ask for goodwill assistance for this repair. They are not required to help you, but if you've had service work done there, they may be willing to pay for the repair, or go 50/50 on it with you.
I guess the interim "fix" for the manifold doesn't always work (had it done several months ago), and the ISS lube isn't a permanent fix (they said the knuckle was worn??).
It will be interesting to see if GM has managed to permanently fix these issues on the newer Impalas. I hope so, because I really do love this car, and I want to buy another one in a couple of years.
Brad
The invoice cost for all this stuff was over CDN$1,600 - makes me very happy that I purchased the extended warranty! It has now paid for itself more than twice over between this series of repairs and the front wheel bearings.
Even with these problems, I still love my Impala!
Brad
Our '01 LS just had the rotors turned for the 2nd time and the technician left a note on the slip saying they would need replacement the next time. 29k on the car. Still rides great.
Anyway, do yourself a favor do not have your rotors replaced by the dealer. If you want the dealer to install the rotors that would be ok, but bring him the rotors that you want to use, and don't use OEM replacement.
I got raybestos severe duty rotors and ceramic pads and let me tell you what that was the best thing I ever did for the car. I took my parts to a local and trusted brake shop and he installed everything for 40.00. I'm not sure how much a dealer would charge if you brought him all the parts.
Assuming the dealer is the only person you trust right now for your brakes, then sure have the dealer do it but bring him in 2 rotors and 2 sets of pads that you have picked out and bought yourself and you will be very happy with how long your brakes last!
Take Care
gw
The vehicle has, the Clunk in the steering wheel (ISS), and this morning, GM notified me when they were performing an oil change that there are two leaks, one with the upper manifold, the other, I don't remember or care. It would cost me 1,100 dollars to repair. After 90,000km's, that is a complete farce a vehicle has that many problems. I have service records, tons of them.
I was faithful for 4 years, even after a power steering cooling line exploded and the alternator crapped out, I merely shrugged it off as "oh well, stuff happens". This latest is the last of the gong show that I will put up with.
Wife has a 2002 Honda Accord, and drives like a dream, fit and finish is superb. I will probably purchase a used but newer Accord or Civic as well.
Hope all of you enjoy the domestic farce, for a while I did, but then reality set in
Jas
new update on my 2003 ls. If you remember i had filed under my states lemon law. 7 sets on rotors in the first year which i did do a lot of driving i might add. 51k miles. gm was ordered to buy back my ls. i just bought an ss. i get it in a couple of days. anyone have anything to say about them? good or bad....
Sound Output Mode - Stereo
Sound Effects - Bass Boost
Controls - Subwoofer level
Signal-To-Noise Ratio - 105 dB
Continuous Power / Channel Qty - 150 Watts x 4
Amplifier Output - 4-channel
High Level Inputs - Yes
Crossover - 2-way active crossover
Phase Selector - Yes
Bass Boost Gain - 0 to +18dB
Distortion Factor - 0.01%
Amplifier Output Details - 150 Watt - 4 Ohm - THD 0.01% - 4 channel(s) ¦ 300 Watt - 2 Ohm - 4 channel(s) ¦ 600 Watt - 2 channel(s)
Additional Features - Input level controls, cooling fan, VU meter
Connector Type - 2 x audio line-in ( RCA phono x 2 ) ¦ 1 x audio line-out ( RCA phono x 2 ) ¦ 4 x speakers input ¦ 4 x speakers output
Speakers Specs
DUAL 12" Bandpass Box
Made of 3/4" Thickness MDF Board
Black capeted exterior, light gray carpeted and mirrored interior
Two C4-Audio 12" 600 watts/each Dual Voice Coil Subwoofers with Rubber Ring,frequency: 20Hz~500Hz
Two chrome spring connection terminals
Four 5"x4" Chrome Port Tubes
Dimensions: 30 "(W) x 14 1/2"(H) x 16 1/2"(D)
My problem is that I hooked up the line level converter to the amp correctly i think. and the amp to my 2 12" c4 audio woofers,there is bass but it doesnt seem like enough bass. The amp i think is only putting out half of what it should be or atleast sounding that way. I tried different settings on the head unit but nothing more. Oh the converter btw was installed left and right output. I dont know now what is going on they should be louder and I was hoping maybe someone could give me some advice as to what may be wrong. Any ideas or suggestions would be great. Thanks for any help given.
I was most letdown by the manifold leak, because one of the reasons I bought the car was for the "bullet-proof" 3.8l engine. I figured I didn't have to worry about the engine or drivetrain, but that wasn't the case. I'm at 64,000 miles now, and plan to drive the car for at least another 4 years.
Given a choice between driving my Impala and my wife's 2003 Accord EX, I'd take the Impala hands down. It feels safer, it gets about the same gas mileage on the highway, and it's more comfortable (especially on long trips). I've been following this board for over 4 years now, and I've seen a lot of people come and go. But as I stated from the beginning, when I buy a car, I plan to keep it for 8-10 years. As a result, I don't expect to get anything for the car in terms of resale value; I looked for a car that will fill my needs now, as well as several years down the road. I paid it off last year, so if I can drive it for another 64,000 miles with only the occasional malfunction, I'll be content.
I'm thinking of leasing one. I love the car otherwise. I think its a classic and my first car was a 64 Impala, Has anyone here had experience with this car? Except for the supercharger; I think the engine and manifold are probably the same.
HOwever, found one of the foglamp housings was shattered, had to duct tape it back into place. Any one know a good place to order used GM parts on-line?
I'd say you could buy the Impala SS with confidence, its a tried and true engine.
If you want a new one then I can tell you that the people over at partszoneonline are very helpful. I have used them and also I have personally used these places with no problems whatsoever: www.rockauto.com www.gmpart.com and www.gmpartsdirect.com. You can't go wrong with any of those 4 but some are cheaper than others and some have better shipping rates than others. partszoneonline seems to be very friendly and helpful but then again rockauto.com has a very cool parts catalog online that saves a lot of time.
good luck on that part
gw
I think I should just go ahead and buy this darn thing. Do you think they will produce it for a few more years like they did in the nineties or change it some more. I saw a Super Sport of the future on one of the auto shows sites and it was very modern.
Thanks
Then you can go out and get some Raybestos Super Stop Severe Duty Rotors with Ceramic Pads and never have another problem again.
I think that that you could be hit and miss with the ISS Issue, for sure have it checked before you hit the end of the warranty even if you don't feel anything wrong in the front end. I do think that they have resolved the problem, I had it fixed under warranty and now am at 75,000 and haven't had a problem since.
As far as the new model. I have heard that maybe there would be a new impala for 2006. I haven't seen anything from GM on it though.
I guess it just depends on how long you plan on keeping your car and your own personal taste as to whether you go for it now or wait or buy or lease.
Good luck to you!
gw
At 75,000+ miles (bought the car from the dealer used - Fleet rental - yeah I know never buy fleet rentals - but I really liked the car). Coolant leak due to misaligned hose - fixed by dealer under warranty. So far I had the ISS and manifold leak problems serviced under dealer warranty. New brakes at 50,000mi, oil change every 3600 mi. or so. Broken outer tirerod, replace wipers, and one fog lamp. The lamp by the electrical outlet on the center console is out.
The ride is better then my old Mustang (and the Impala is faster -the Mustang was a disaster mechanically by 60,000mi.) and it is better then my wife's '00 Accord LX. The Accord is quicker on the pickup but it is a busy ride and noisy. Everyone prefers to go on long trips in the Impala rather then the Accord.
Well, that's it so far (knock on wood).
I say this because I think that your car was probably manufactured after the recall on the manifold. You might want to ask your service advisor if your car needs the recall done or not just to be safe.
The ISS issue GM says is fixed with a new lube kit but I would deffinately have it looked at before your warranty expires, whether you feel anything in the front end or not.
The rotors are most likely going to warp. If your brake pedal starts pulsing let them fix it for free a few times then get some really good rotors like I did. I got the Raybestos Superstop Severe Duty Rotors with Ceramic Pads and have not had a problem whatsoever since.
My car is a 2001 and I don't regret anything about it, had the ISS done under warranty, the manifold recall done, and the only thing that I have spent money on was the great set of rotors and pads. I have 75,000 + miles.
Hope you enjoy yours as much as we do ours!
I'm new here. I'm shopping for a 2nd car (family car), my wife drives a Camry. Nothing is ever wrong with the Camry that we have, however, I need something roomier, more power, can accommodate 4-5 adults AND must have decent Consumer Report reliability predictor (Impala fits the bill on paper for 2002-03 models, and presumably 2004). I'm looking for value (reasonable price and willing to buy used for 2002-03 models only.) So, what prices did you all pay for your cars, please specify city/state/year/model (base/LS/SS)/price/new or used, if used state mileage at purchase/also would you buy it again or what would you recommend. Sorry, lengthy, but need to get as much user info as I can.
Thanks for taking the time to share your wisdom!