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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions

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  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Document ID# 662806
    2001 Chevrolet Impala

    Wheel Alignment Specifications, Front

    Camber: -0.28 to -1.28 Degrees, -0.78 Degrees Preferred
    Caster: 2.70 to 3.70 Degrees, Not Adjustable
    Steering Angle: -3.50 to +3.50 Degrees, 0 Degrees Preferred
    Toe, Total: -0.10 to +0.30 Degrees, 0.10 Degrees Preferred

    Wheel Alignment Specifications, Rear

    Camber: -1.0 to +0.0 Degrees, -0.50 Degrees Preferred
    Thrust Angle: -0.15 to +0.15 Degrees, 0 Degrees Preferred
    Toe, Total: -0.10 to +0.30 Degrees, 0.10 Degrees Preferred
  • herrdon1herrdon1 Member Posts: 9
    I HAVE A 2001 IMPALA 3.8L ENGINE. EQUIPPED WITH ABS AND FOUR WHEEL DISC BRAKES. MY CHECK TRACTION SYSTEM LIGHT CAME ON, WENT TO THE DEALER AND THEY TELL ME THE RIGHT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF 600.00 FOR THE PART AND ANOTHER 250 LABOR. THE PROBLEM STARTED IN WET WEATHER I HAD NO TROUBLE AT ALL WHEN THE WEATHER WAS DRY. ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND ANYBODY FOUND A FIX FOR LESS THAN 850? THE CHECK TRACTION SYSTEM LIGHT COMES ON, THE ABS LIGHT COMES ON AND THE SPEED COMPUTER SHOWS ERROR WHEN SET TO INSTANT MILES PER GALLON. WHEN I GOT HOME I CHECKED MY SERVICE MANUAL AND APPARENTLY THE ENTIRE HUB NEEDS TO BE REPLACED.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Please turn off your CAPS LOCK KEY.

    Wheel speed sensors are integral with the hub and bearing on most GM vehicles including the Impala, so the diagnosis sounds right. I'd do some shopping for the hub/bearing though, sounds pretty steep.
  • bizjet604bizjet604 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000LS and am experiencing a problem with the start switch in the gear selector. My wife is the primary driver of this car and an aborted attempt to go to work this morning gave me a chance to do a little t/shooting. If you hold the gear shift hard against the forward(park) stop the car will start with no problem. My question; is this switch adjustable, and is it accessed through the console? Any help would be appreciated.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Noticed on my way home after dark last night that the passenger half of my split-zone heat/AC control had gone dark - apparently I've had a bulb burn out. Anybody know how complicated it is to get to this bulb (and if the replacement is easy to locate)?
  • roscoe1roscoe1 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

     I have been looking around at cars to replace my old reliable Oldsmobile, and really like how the Impala looks and drives. I usually do my research before I buy anything, and was amazed at all the problems people have been having with the intake manifolds, dexcool and gaskets. From what I can tell, the problems have been around for awhile, and I was wondering if they have been fixed. I have two people I know that drive GM cars that had coolants leaks, and had to have the intake manifold gasket replace. One of them then had to have the head gasket replaced two weeks later. The car was a 2001. Right now the only thing stopping me from buying is concern about these issues. I really like the car, but am afraid to buy it.
    Thanks
  • free_bsdfree_bsd Member Posts: 9
    If you are looking at an Impala with the 3.8l engine there is a recall out for the intake leak problem on that engine. Someone did post the recall letter in this group.

    However, IF you are looking at a 3.4l, Anything built before late '03 is at risk for the leak.

    They do have a new gasket design, but it wasn't really available until last year.

    There is no recall for the 3.4l (bastards). I was able to split the cost of the repair 50/50 with GM last month (2000 Impala @ 83,000k).

    You can check for the leak by looking at either side engine for stains.

    If it has been leaking for awhile it will turn the oil milky, and the bottom of the filler cap will look like this: (not mine..)

    http://members.shaw.ca/ianrmac/Images/DSC00662-1.JPG
  • setzersetzer Member Posts: 127
    hi, my 2004 Impala LS has 200 horsepower. What would be my options of getting a more powerful engine? I heard the new Grand Prix GTP has 260 horsepower. Would that be compatable with the Impala?
  • capeapecapeape Member Posts: 1
    Hi! I have had my 2000 Impala (Base 3.4) for 1 year now and have put 44K on for a total of 124K and have had no problems until last week. My instrument lights would dim and finally go out. This was an intermittent problem. While driving after dark a friendly local member of the RCMP pointed out to me that my taillights were not working! He kindly escorted me home. Car was diagnosed as requiring a Body Control Module. Dealer charged 64.50 per hour (2 hrs) plus BCM cost for a total of $507! (Good thing it was Canadian dollars!) Is the BCM a common problem area for the Impala?
  • 2002ls2002ls Member Posts: 11
    I was told by my dealership that the bulbs are soldered in for all dash lighting. In most cases they will replace the unit with the burned out bulb. My high beam indicator light went out and they put in a new guage cluster! Seems like a goofy system to me.
  • 2002ls2002ls Member Posts: 11
    Has anyone figured out how to keep the LO beams on when the Hi beams are on? And how to keep the FOG lights on when the HI beams are on? And finally, how to bypass or disable the DRL's and/or Automatic Headlight System.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I HOPE I don't have to replace my entire HVAC control panel just to repair one burned-out bulb!!!! Although it wouldn't surprise me - does cause me to worry a little about all the other individual little lit up buttons all over the Impala - wonder if one of the steering wheel buttons burns out if you have to replace the entire steering wheel!!!!

    As for your other lighting questions, I don't know of anyone who has figured out how to do the things you're mentioned. At one time there was someone here who was working on figuring out some of those same things, but I don't recall him ever posting a "how to" piece. I think the police Impala can bypass the DRL/automatic lights - might be able to do some digging and figure out what's different on the police versions, and see if you could acquire the proper parts to make that work.
  • tommy42tommy42 Member Posts: 70
    All request are to made through Techline customer support center.Canada call 1 800 828 6860.This is city ,goverment agencies qualify for diable request. This came off service.gm.com Archived issues. Dated Aug 2001.
  • etcarrolletcarroll Member Posts: 87
    My drivers seatbelt is twisted, where it crosses my chest. Any ideas how to untwist it?

    I wouldn't mind so much, but it allows the buckle to hang down and prevents drivers door from closing.
  • nncs4xchampnncs4xchamp Member Posts: 1
    When you apply the turn signal they will cut on solid but will not blink. Same with the hazards. Already checked fuses, they were fine. Anything else I should try before going to the dealer?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    The only other thing I'd check would be the signal bulbs...it might be one of them is burned out.
  • tschuxtschux Member Posts: 7
    OK, I talked with my local Chevy dealer mechanic about the 2004 Impala problem fixes. The manifold problem that existed in the 2000-2002 years are fixed for 2004. The steering column problem is not fixed, my mechanic said that the chances of new cars having a problem are 50/50 (that didn't sound good!), but if it did have a problem they would just pack it full of grease, and the problem would be gone. I will be taking my car in at 30,000 miles to have this done while it is still under warranty. As far as the rotors go, I never really got a straight answer because it depended too much on driving conditions. So, I feel pretty good about what's been done, the manifold was my main concern.
  • trucker50trucker50 Member Posts: 108
    I've been contemplating changing my cd/cassette player in my 200 Impala due to problems with the cd when it gets hot(looking a a tasty JVC)....does anyone know if I buy an aftermarket radio how will I reset the low oil/change oil lights etc. that I now reset using the radio controls?
  • gchecksfieldgchecksfield Member Posts: 36
    On a 2000 Impala when operating at low speeds, as in parallel parking, the car drives as though it does not have power steering. The car has 65k, likely the original serpentine belt, (I bought it used at 50k), which looks OK. I have topped off the power steering fluid at least once, but it is not empty, and the steering is fine at anything over parallel parking speed. Can someone tell me the progression of things to look at?
  • isabellaisabella Member Posts: 2
    I just stumbled across this site...wow, what a great place! I have a 2001 Impala LS and it left me on the side of the road Monday morning. It started making a terribe grinding noise and by the time I had pulled over, it would not move in drive or reverse. I called my Onstar and had it towed to the dealer where I purchased the car. 2 hours later they call me and tell me I need a new transmission! Can you believe that! They said there were metal shavings in the transmission fluid. Of course, the warranty has run out already and I am up the creek! $2600.00 to replace it with a "Certa remanufactured" trans. I am so sick!!! How could this happen at 3 years old? I am a single girl and I dont understand all the gobbley [non-permissible content removed] there are telling me. All I know is this doesnt seem right! I had a problem simular about a year into owning the car, I took it in but it was documented as "brake shudder". These are not my words but theirs. I just dont know if I have any recourse or not. The service manager seems to have an attitude about the whole situation. It is still sitting at the dealer and I am driving a friends bombmobile. I want my Impala back!!! Does anyone out there have any suggestions for me?
  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Member Posts: 110
    Explain what happened with the transmission, and ask them if there are any service bulletins for it or any way it might have been defective to die so quickly.

    I have a 2000 Impala with approx 95,000 miles on it, I drive it like a maniac sometimes but knock on wood the transmission never hiccuped in the least. Your tranny should not have died at such a low mileage. Make some noise with the salesperson who sold it to you and they usually can push in your favor with the service department a little. Or at least get the service people to listen to you.

    At worst, call GM Customer Service, and complain. Maybe it will get them to reimburse half the cost.
  • tepst12tepst12 Member Posts: 8
    I also had a light go out in the HVAC controls. It wasn't just one, but two.

    Being fairly fearless I took the dash cover off and then removed the HVAC controls; I also disconnected all of the wire harnesses and hoses to it.

    Upon inspection I saw that the lights inside were actually LED's. There is no way to replace them directly as they are soldered onto the circuit board inside of the controls.

    The main reason I made the effort to get the controls out was that on my base 2000 Impala the fan motor switch no longer works at setting #1. A few pages back someone mentioned that they had the same problem with the fan motor switch and that a resistor was the problem. He had had the dealer replace it and now the blower motor worked on all settings (1-5). However with the LED's burnt out I might just replace the whole unit. I've found them for as cheap as $119.00 US dollars.
  • wmmwmm Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I own a 2001 impala. Everything is great except a problem with the brake system. I need to have the rotors turned down about every 3-4 months. I have been to the dealer many times on this and called, emailed corporate with no help. The car has 40,000 miles now and I have turned the rotors down 6 times. Replaced them once. Help! Anyone else with this problem or any suggestions? This is getting VERY old. Thanks! Wendy
  • this_is_nascarthis_is_nascar Member Posts: 199
    Same here Wendy. I've had several Impalas, all with the same issue. I believe allot of it has to do with the person using the air gun when putting the tires back on. They should do this by hand, so that the 100 lb torque is not exceeded, however that would mean that they'd actually have to do something manually.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    ...Did you purchase this Impala brand new.....or was it used.....
    I would get a second and third opinion before spending that kind of money....A problem as you described because of metal shavings, transmission would have started giving you minor problems first before giving up all together as it did....I am sure it is transmission related but could be something that would not require the transmission being replaced.....do some leg work and get other certified transmission shops to check it out.....it just might save you $1,000 or so....
  • gchecksfieldgchecksfield Member Posts: 36
    I have an intermittent problem with the air bag light coming on. I had the air bag wiring inside the steering wheen changed by a mechanic. The light still comes on intermittently. Moving the seat seems to cause the problem. Is this a common problem in the 2000 Impala? I understand that this is a complicate electrical circuit. Where should I start?
  • danzigdandanzigdan Member Posts: 50
    I agree with some of the suggestions already posted. Bypass the dealer and call Chevy. Calmly explain the problem to them. A little back-and-forth action between you, the dealer, and Chevrolet might get you a few favors.

    I also agree with checking with a certified, reputable transmission service. Not a full-service garage---a transmission shop. I took my Toyota to a Continental shop just for their fluid exchange/filter deal and was making small talk with the guy about the worst transmissions he sees. He said no doubt "Ford" because they don't fix the problem. They put the same parts back in that caused the problem in the first place. He also told me they had a fix for the particular issue with those cars so they don't come back.

    My point being it would be worth another opinion or two, AND if the dealer is going to treat you poorly and you don't get satisfaction from them take the car elsewhere.
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    Turn signals not working may be caused by an open in the hazard switch. At our shop, we've replaced a few hazard switches on Impalas to fix t/s trouble.

    When replacing the radio, you have to mount the old radio somewhere else in the car (most people put it in the trunk, though I have seen a picture of a radio nestled under the hood!) The old radio is necessary to control several functions in the vehicle. There are several websites floating around that describe the process.
  • txguytxguy Member Posts: 57
    The best recommendation I have seen is going to Raybestos severe duty rotors with ceramic pads. That is a permanent fix (with normal pad replacements) unless you abuse your brakes.
  • geezr2geezr2 Member Posts: 7
    Hi folks! We've been enjoying our '03 Impala since the beginning of the year,with only one problem cropping up.The BCM had to be replaced.Apart from that the only other thing is the radio's annoying habit of the tone always defaulting to "Jazz" tone.I find the bass very boomy with this and most other pre selected tones,and usually set it to "manual".It always goes back to the Jazz setting when the station is changed,or even all by itself.Is there any way of resetting the tone to default to manual?

    Thx
    Ric
  • ofets98ofets98 Member Posts: 1
    I hate to say this, but I think you were unlucky and happened to buy a lemon. Lemons are not unique to Chevy. Even Japanese Car Companys make lemons. Besides normal maintenance my 2001 Impala LS has been pretty reliable. The Brake problem was the only thing. Had the fronts replaced at 56000 now the car is running great again. My only suggestion is, before buying the next one, check the actual manufacturers date. That is the date the car actually was assembled. Try to buy a car that was built on Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday of the week. Wednesday ideally. I know this sounds silly, but think about yourself. Do you do your best work on Monday or Friday. Also I will never buy a brand new car again. As soon as you roll it off the lot the car has depreciated $1000-5000 or more. About $3000 in our case. Buy a car thats about 2-3 years old and get the extended factory warranty. Let the dealer eat the depreciation. Sorry again for you suffering. I have been there.
  • etcarrolletcarroll Member Posts: 87
    I have a 2001 LS with 85k miles. Mileage has been fairly consistent at 23 and a fraction mpg, mostly highway commuting at 70mph, about 30 miles one way. With last oil change I switched to 15w-40, and ran second jug of Techron fuel injector cleaner through tank. First jug was at previous oil change.

    With no other changes, have noticed a definate improvement in mpg, nothing tremendous, maybe 2 or 3 mpg more, but definate.

    Meanwhile, others are telling me this oil is bad, too thick for tolerances of the 3.8l engine. I should go back to the recommended 10w-30.

    I'm thinking of staying with the 15w-40, at least during the Summer.

    What are others' thoughts?
  • hatethiscarhatethiscar Member Posts: 1
    I think I am having problems with my security system. I get stranded all the time because I think it is not recognizing the key so the car won't start. The engine doesn't even click but everything else works, like the lights and windows. I only have 1200 miles left on my extended warranty. My security light comes on all the time after short trips. Then every now and then, with no warning it won't start at all. The dealer worked on my computer and told me I needed a new battery. Then charged me $40.00 for testing my battery. (I was never told upfront there would be a charge). I had already had the battery tested at another place and was told the battery was fine.But after having the computer fixed and being stranded again I replaced the battery myself.That was 3 weeks ago. Yesterday I was once again stranded because the car would not start. I had power but the engine would not turn over at all nor would it jump start. While waiting for my tow I tried it one more time and it suddenly started. I am trying to get it fixed under the extended warranty but I can't wait to get rid of it. The dealerships are not very happy to help me with this. I also have had problems with the brake rotors, brakes, and computer too. Has anyone else had this Problem?
  • walkercwalkerc Member Posts: 2
    We have a 1997 Chevy truck that had the transmission go out at 40K miles. Complained to the GM Service Rep, they regularly visit dealers, and we were charged only $1200 instead of the original $2800 quoted.
  • walkercwalkerc Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 had the air bag light come on at about 25K, then go off at 30K. It came back on again at about 50K, so I took it in and they replaced the entire wiring harness(this took 2 weeks). Fortunately, I had purchased the extended warranty. A friend has the same car with about 60K and the same thing has just happened to her! Looks like a problem inherent to this vehicle, which should be no surprise to Chevy by now. Complain to the corporate service rep.
  • erknottserknotts Member Posts: 5
    My 01 LS just rolled over 100K. I need to know what all I need to do to get another 100K. I read the book and it only said to replace the sparkplugs and check the sparkplug wires? Any advise would be appreciated.
  • evansevans Member Posts: 1
    My wife and I purchased a 2000 Impala LS back in 1999 and are extrememly happy with it. About a month ago, however, it started stalling. By stalling I mean riding at 75 miles per hour down 93 in Boston and having the engine completely shut down on you. We've had it in to our mechanic now for over a week, hooked up to mibile and stationary computers and he has no answers. He can't figure out what's wrong. After it stalls, sometimes it starts up right away and sometimes we have to wait a few minutes. Any body have any thoughts? Heeeeeeeeelp!!
  • dgonzalez13dgonzalez13 Member Posts: 110
    Have the S-Belt looked at and replaced if necessary. Maybe Transmission flush/filter. Check the hoses visually for cracks. Check the coolant and coolant reservoir for cruddy muddy buildup, maybe do a radiator flush and fill.

    If you do the spark plugs, get the spark plug wires changed as well.
  • ghostwolfghostwolf Member Posts: 91
    Hey Ric,

    Most likely what happened is that when you preset your buttons they were saved in Jazz mode. What you do is reset your presets. For example, press button 1 (the radio tunes to your station) then change your tone to manual, then press and hold button 1 again until it beeps. Then do the same thing for all your other presets.

    In theory the way its suppose to work is that you could have button 1 tuned to a rock station and have the tone set to rock, button 2 to a talk station and have the tone set to news, etc, etc.

    Let me know how it works out for you
    gw
  • etcarrolletcarroll Member Posts: 87
    My 2001 LS, 88.5k miles just started to show following;

    - will not upshift smoothly, at about 3500 rpm I have to take my foot off of the gas a moment, step back on, it upshifts

    - will not 'make power' under a load, for example, just came to a stop at a moderate hill, proceeded up hill and cars mildly shudders and bucks - reminds me of my motorcycle when main tank is empty and I hold off of throwing it onto reserve, and try to give it the gas.

    All fluids look good, just put in a tank of fresh gas, made sure filler cap was seated properly, will get a new air filter on way home.

    Taking it into shop tomorrow.
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    Just a guess, but an ignition switch is my guess since your trouble mimics what I had on a 1997 Blazer. It could be anything, but an ignition switch failure won't drop a trouble code or check engine light. Good luck, but it will get worse b4 it gets better, & hopefully you don't get killed in the interim.
  • etcarrolletcarroll Member Posts: 87
    Problem was my catalytic converter had come apart on inside and blocked exhaust flow combined with bad spark plug wires. Runs fine now - cost; $1165.
  • mvanzantemvanzante Member Posts: 7
    Okay, well I need some input from you guys because I feel like I'm being fed a load of crap. Here's the deal:

    About a week ago I was driving my 2003 LS at highway speeds when I'd notice the tachometer spike a few hundred RPMs and I'd feel the car jerk just a slight bit. This obviously concerned me, so I waited till I needed gas (about 3/16 of a tank remaining) and filled up as well as added some fuel injector cleaner. After that the jerking happened only a few times and then calmed down for the remaining 100 miles of my trip.

    The next day I set up a service appointment with a chevy dealer. Right away they hooked up the computer and found that my 3.8 L V6 was misfiring on all cylinders (problem code P0300), but they weren't exactly sure why. It took two full days to diagnose that the fuel in the tank had a specific gravity that was higher than expected. According to the report, the fuel tested with a specific gravity of .756 and normal tolerance is .720-.730 specific gravity.

    To fix the problem they dropped, drained, and cleaned the fuel tank, replaced the fuel filter, and performed extensive cleaning of the fuel induction system, intake manifold, and throttle plate. Total bill? $611.81!

    As far as I know everything is working great now. Apparently there are no more misfires read by the computer for the last 30 miles. Additionally, the dealer warrantees this work for the next 12 months/12,000 miles, so if this comes up again soon, they will fix it under warranty.

    My big concern, though, is that the whole specific gravity thing is a bunch of hogwash. I did some quick research and according to BP/Amaco the average specific gravity of a gallon of gas is .750. Does anybody know anything about this?

    Also, has anyone had any luck with getting fuel companies to reimburse you for fuel-related repairs? The dealer believed it was the tank of gas before my last refill (the remaining 3/16 of a tank mentioned above) that caused the problem. If this was the case, and assuming that the added gasoline fell within normal parameters and mixed evenly with the bad gas, then by my calculations the bad gas would have had a specific gravity of .899!

    Unfortunately, most of my evidence here seems fairly circumstantial. Obviously I don't have fuel samples and I don't even have my receipts (lesson learned, keep your fuel receipts!). To top it all off, I bought the last three tanks of gas from different companies, so any one of them could start the finger-pointing game.

    Any advice (or consolation) you guys have would be appreciated. If I'm being lied to here I definitely want to know, although I'm not sure what to do about it.

    Thanks,
    Matthew
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Member Posts: 410
    My opinion, so here it goes. I'm guessing your fuel injectors got dirty causing your issue. This happens to some Chevy's especially in states with 15% MTBE gas additives like California where I live. My dealer cleaned my injectors for FREE, & I had over 50,000 miles on my 1997 Blazer at the time. Just my opinion, but if you purchased your vehicle where you had it serviced they should have taken care of it "in house". Fuel does cause this over a period of time, but if you are really lucky, go to the last placed you filled up b4 your last fill-up & see if they've had other inquiries such as yours & if they have you'll probably be reimbursed. Good luck.

    Myself, I added Techron every 5000 miles & still had clogged injectors/throttle body issues. I was quite surprised considering I do more preventative maintenance than most people I know. As far as fuel issues & specific gravity, I'd be wary. Just don't sound right unless lots of folks are having the same issue.
  • cwdellcwdell Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 ls with 70,000 miles and for the last 8000 miles have been having an intermittent problem with not starting. there is power to all accessories but car will not turn over, usually after waiting a few mins car will start with no problem. cannot seem to isolate the problem since it is so intermittent any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • bradharmerbradharmer Member Posts: 15
    Hi,

    I'm working on replacing the plugs and fuel filter on my 2000 LS. I was able to get the front plugs with no problem, however, the back
    three look like its gonna be a real [non-permissible content removed]. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get at them.

    I'm also replacing my fuel filter. Are there any gotyas I should look out for?

    Thanks!

    BRAD
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    bradharmer,
    The back three plugs are easiest from underneath the car. Make sure the engine is cold. Use jack stands and set the park brake.
    To replace the fuel filter, relieve the fuel pressure before you disconnect the lines.
  • geezr2geezr2 Member Posts: 7
    Hi GW! Sry for the late reply,but I only saw it today.I reset all the radio presets,and it worked like a charm.TY so much!

    Ric :o)
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Oddly enough, I just replaced my fuel filter on Saturday...the filter holds a good bit of fuel, so be sure to have something handy to catch it.

    I haven't replaced plugs yet, but seems like I read somewhere that you can release the couple of top engine mounts and tilt the engine somehow to reach the ones in the back. I don't remember specifics (and you may have already tried this), but I was thinking when I was changing oil on Saturday as well that I'd have to deal with that sooner or later.
  • husonihusoni Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a fleet Impala '03 80k. I don't get the gas milage I should as well as I believe my car runs a little hotter than it should. Does any body know about where my sensor should be during "regular" highway driving?
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