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Dumb question: I see 2 drain plugs for the transmission and differential, but no filler plug. Where's the filler plug and is there a second filler plug for the differential ?
Thanks
You fill through the transmission dipstick tube. You'll need a funnel small enough to fit into the tube, or use a plastic tube extension that will. The differential will be filled as you fill the transmission. The only reason for the separate drain plug on the differential was to assure full drainage of that component. Check your owner's manual - if it states Toyota T-IV ATF, DON'T substitute Dexron III ATF. When you drain, you'll end up with nearly half the fluid retained in the torque converter. Refill, button everything up and take the car out for ~6 miles to fully warm and mix the fluid, then drain and refill again. Do one more ride and repeat another drain and refill. At that point you'll effectively only have about 12% of the old fluid left in. If the old fluid smelled burnt, though, better do a fourth drive, drain, and refill.
(Your question wasn't dumb.)
I'm not sure if this is true on the Camry 4-cylinder. I seem to remember a couple of horror stories about people thinking the differential was filled, but in fact it was empty. You might want to ask on the Maintenance Board, "Got a quick technical question?"
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef2398d/1858
The transmission fluid specified is Dexron III for the '96 (I had a '97, and it used Dexron III).
Just bought a 1998 Camry and I'm wanting to change the transmission fluid. I picked up some AT fluid, and the transmission pan gasket and filter from pep boys last evening.
My dilemma is that I want to change the fluid but I know draining the fluid won't complete empty out to old fluid. I figured i'd just drain and refill through the drain plug on the AT the first go around.
Then drive for a few days then again drain and remove the second time remove the pan and replace the filter and refill again with fresh fluid.
Anything wrong with this approach?
The Camry has 106k miles on it and the fluid looks pretty old.
I understand your apporach but just kind of time consuming and hate to say that, the fluild will still be brown.
I used to try to save money by doing such job myself (including changing the oil) but as I getting older and see the do-it-yourself result vs. the dealer's work, I just don't see the value. I guess my time worth more than the money I save
It takes about an hour. Use whatever fluid is recommended on the dipstick, or in the manual. Our Camry's and Corolla's take Dexron, but the Celica takes Toyota Type IV fluid, available only from Toyota, at about $3.50/qt. Use what's recommended, or you'll be sorry. It's still less expensive than having it done.
1. Drop the pan, drain the fluid, replace the filter, and reinstall the pan as you usually do.
2. Add 3 quarts of fluid.
3. Remove the fluid return line at the transmission (usually the upper of the two lines), and place it into a one-gallon milk jug or similar semi-transparent container. You may want to place the container in a box with rags around it so that it doesn't spill.
4. Start the engine, and let about a quart or so of fluid get pumped into the milk jug (about 10-15 seconds).
5. Stop the engine, and add a quart of fluid to the transmission.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you get new fluid out of the drain line.
You'll use about 8-10 quarts of fluid total, including the 3 you put in at the beginning, so you may need more than one milk jug.
7. Reinstall the drain line to the transmission, start the engine, and check for leaks.
8. With your foot on the brake, put the transmission in each gear, then into Park.
9.Let the car down and check the fluid level on the dipstick. Add fluid if needed to bring it up to the proper level.
10. Take it out for a test drive, and check the fluid level again.
Out of curiosity I have a question that has me scratching my head.
The 98 Camry owners manual makes no mention of checking the automatic transmission fluid level. Why would that be?
I assume the instructions in the Haynes repair guide is correct. Check after vehicle has been drive at least 10 miles, place transmission selector in each gear once, then check fluid level with transmission in park, engine running.
Why would Toyota feel it necessary to leave this out of the owners manual?
Alex
I didn't realize it wasn't in the owner's manual. I guess not many people bother to check it themselves these days, preferring to leave the job to the dealer or quickie-lubes of the world.
Don't let any repair shop sell her on a "flush" -- it is expensive and unnecessary.
But Toyota says to use no other kind of ATF other than T IV because it can cause poor shifting. You have got me wondering alright lol
I think you've got the best suggestion already. Take the vehicle to get the transmission inspected by another party.
You can check the fluid yourself though as its rather simple. The fluid is red when its new and discolors with ages and abuse. Also the smell of the fluid will change.
Here are some links which might help on how to check
the fluid level.
http://www.samarins.com/check/transmission.html
How to check automatic transmission fluid:
http://www.samarins.com/maintenance/simple.html
It's a good idea to change the fluid every 30,000 miles to keep it in good shape. You can change the fluid yourself, on the Camry it's easier than most vehicles because it has a trans drain plug, which alot of cars don't.
If there is a burned smell just change the fluid and then drive it a few hundred miles. Change it again, drive it again, once or twice more. And that will give your transmission a good shot at further life if it is still working ok. Changing the fluid will take about a case worth, 12 qts and this will cost about $20 -25 if it uses Dexron. (Check owners manual on what fluid to use, this is important!)
Next time though, refuse a flush. Just drain and refill -- there is a drain bolt on the underside of the transmission pan. Just under 4 quarts will come out -- replace with the same amount of fluid -- Toyota T-IV ATF. True, with a drain and refill, you won't get all of the old fluid out, but that's ok.
If you changed the coolant at 30K miles (and refilled with the original Toyota super long life coolant), you're supposed to be good for 100K miles. Some say, however, not to wait that long.
When you do change it again, it IS better to flush with water so you get all of the old coolant/water mixture out of both the radiator and engine block.
I have a 2003 Camry SE 4Cyl Auto that has a peculiar problem. It seems as if whenever the temperature rises, the car has a tendency to not shift out of park at all. The pedal can go all the way to the floor, handbrake down, ect... but the darned thing won't shift out of park. Now this only seems to happen during warmer temperatures and only just recently seemed to happen. Anyone have any ideas or similar problems?
TIA
Thanks
Dave
First: The speedometer/odometer cut out and works only sporadically
Second: The car began to stall at stops RPMs drop sometimes while still stopping, other times once stopped or in park
Then: Had my husband change spark plugs and problem stopped for a few days then came back and..
Finally: Transmission does not always shift while accelerating. For insatance-was doing 15mph at over 3kRPMs.
All of these things happened within about a week of each other. I had my transmission fluid replaced and a leak repaired at the end of November.
Thanks for your help!
If you know how to check the tranny fluid level, you may at least want to do this first.
I took it back and they say there is nothing wrong with it. HELP!
(My husband said he thought it was the U joints but the Toyota people say this car doesn't have U joints.)
Thanks for any help you can give. I'm frustrated and it's an uncomfortable ride but I can't afford a new car right now.
This is our 'standby vehicle' and the fluid is VERY brown and the vehicle has started jumping out of gearoccasionally..The transmission has also been OVER filled.
Any assistance greatly appreciated.-
Thanks , John.
Next time when the car is cold try turning in a tight, the tightest, circle while driving slowly forward and see what kind of sounds you get from the CV joints.
Maybe you can get a second opinion from another shop -- your original guy should have been able to spot the bad mounts before the car was sent to the tranny guy.
I don't think it's too wise to have the engine/tranny flopping around if the mounts are indeed shot. But maybe you could replace just the rear one first if you want to minimize costs for now.
I have a Toyota Camry V6-XLE, year 1997 and about 175000Km on that.
A couple days ago I noticed that when I go from Neutral to Direct, there is a sudden movement on the motor. So far it never happened when I start the motor and it is cold; but it happens when the motor and transmission are warm.
It happens occasionally. Sometimes everything is good but sometimes it happens. The transmission oil has been changed (flushed) about one year ago.
I appreciate any suggestions about the probable cause.
Thanks for advice.
I noticed something else, which is the shifting happens in 3000 RPM, normally it was less than 2000RPM.
Do these problems relate? (probably yes) What is your opinion?
Regards
Previous post is not a simple reply – this is actually 11-th edition of “Wwest Mythology”. Previous 10 editions have been discussed and bitten to death in approximately ~1000 posts in a number of forums/sites. I have read some of those. What is the result? See here:
[url=http://www.siennaclub.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=6921&hl=]http://www.sie- nnaclub.org/forum/index.php?...ic=6921&hl=[/url]
As if previous discussions do not exist, wwest posts the same stuff again and again and again
Like a Big Propaganda Machine, wwest is in a win-win situation: if you start infinite discussions and win – it does not mater, next time he will post exactly the same stuff. If you ignore him – he will flood forums and poor readers would have to deal with it anyway.
END OF DISCLAIMER[/quote]
Okay, "teacher" will take a different tact, tactic.
Do you know how many things in a car simply waste energy....???
A) Power stearing hydraulic pump when there is no "stearing" to be done. What, 98% of the time?
And yes, I do know that PS pressure helps "hold" the stearing in a "set" position, but just how much energy does that require in comparison to the HUGE losses?
The PS must have the pumping capacity/volume/displacement to help, SERIOUSLY help, turn the wheels at or near a dead stop(parallel parking...), all the while with the engine turning only at idle, of maybe slightly above.
So, 2200 RPM and driving straight down the highway at 65MPH guess how much pressurized PS fluid is simply being bypassed back into the sump.
Is it any wonder that many cars are converting to electric power stearing, even at the risk of having the solid state electronics overheat and therefore automatically going into a sub-standard power assist mode?
B] Gear-type engine lubricating pump. Again, pumping volume/capacity/displacement must accomodate full pressure and flow even with the engine at idle. So as engine RPM rises the EXTRA pumping capacity must be bypassed back into the sump.
Either BMW or MB, don't remember which, has already gone to a variable displacement engine lubricating oil pump in oder to reduce these losses and thereby reduce the engine heat load and also increase FE.
C) A/C compressor. Here again, the compressor pumping capacity must be such that it can provide FULL cooling capability at engine idle on a BRIGHT and SUNNY 100F (or above) day. In this case the A/C clutch along with a reasonably sized liquid refrigerant storage reservoir has been used for "eons" to ammiliate the effects of continuous engine loading by the A/C compressor.
So why do you suppose so many new vehicles are coming out equipped with the new variable capacity "swash plate" type A/C compressor, and the compressor clutch?
Because it is better design practice, overall, to have a continous ~2HP load on the engine rather than an intermittent load of ~7HP.
[b]Getting the picture..?[/b]
D) And just what is the deal with the torque converter (hydraulic TURBINE pump, slush pump, etc.), just how lossy is that sucker?
The slush pump, torque converter, is really required ONLY to act as an automatic clutch. At low engine speeds, idle, the losses are so high that virtually no torque is coupled to the transaxle input shaft. NONE would be ideal, but nowadays you need a clutch pedal for that. The nice thing about the torque converter is that it also acts as a reduction gear ratio at low torque loading. But, that's where the torque converter lockup clutch comes into play. In OD it is highly desirous to have the engine operate at the lowest speed at which it can produce "just" enough torque for the current load factor...roadspeed. So at low engine RPMs the HIGH LOSS torque converter is bypassed by the lockup clutch.
E) This one is slightly off point but I bring it because if I don't someone else will.
The engine coolant water pump.
Almost all engine coolant water pumps are of the centrifical, turbine, type and thereby self limiting insofar as pumping volume is concerned. Obviously there is some "needless" loss involved here otherwise the water hoses would not "swell", balloon, as engine speed rises beyond the point wherein the thermostat will accomodate the pump volume. Other than the current crop of hybrids, all equipped, to my knowledge, with electric water pumps, other manufacturers have already converted to electric pumps, if not altogether then at least apartially so, for the cabin heater.
[b]Get the picture..?
No...?[/b]
F) And finally....
The gear type ATF pump.
Like everything else above the most critical situation insofar as determining base pump volume occurs with the engine at idle.
Hmmmm..
Let's think this over a bit.
Just what "work" does the ATF pump have to do with the engine at idle?
Shifting from park or neutral to drive or reverse is clearly not critical insofar as pumping volume is concerned...
Upshifting once underway always involves engine RPM well above idle....
Aha, DOWNSHIFTING....
So, when does an automatic downshift with the engine at idle or nearly at idle.
Not for passing, kickdown, certainly...
But then how about just before coming to a full stop...?
Or during coastdown periods with the throttle fully closed...?
In both of these latter instances if the transaxle is to downshift lots of ATF pressure/flow will be required to ascertain the downshift clutches are quickly and firmly seated. Otherwise, with low or marginal ATF pressure these clutches would undoubtedly incur some serious level of slippage and the wear associated thereto.
So, the engineers say to each other, if we could eliminate just these two instances the ATF pump FIXED capacity could be a LOT lower and that would undoubtedly inprove FE overall while reducing the heat load and clutch wear rate.
Say, what does a stick shift driver do in these instances. Well as the cars coasts to a stop teh driver would normally disenage the clutch and slip the transmission into 1st.
Well, we can't disenage the clutch....Can we...??
Sure can, simply "upshift" the transaxle a few notches, no substantial level of engine compression braking, NO transaxle clutch wear. Who cares if the upshifted clutches don't quickly fully and firmly engage...!
But what about coastdown periods at 40-30MPH with the engine at idle...?
Why not upshift then too, who's to notice?
________________________________________
The theory behind the above dissertation arose because I noticed a seeming abiguity between my earlier theory, "protect the drive train using DBW to prevent engine compression braking.'
Owners have been reporting that while in cruise control the engine/transaxle ECU will actually command a downshift to retard roadspeed going down a hill.
Me..."What? Downshift a FWD or F/AWD vehicle and actually take advantage of engine compression