I recently got 4 new tires on a 2001 Toyota Corolla. Ever since, when going over 50mph, my steering wheel vibrates and shimmies back and forth. I did NOT have this problem with my old tires. I've gone back 4 times now...tires have been balanced several times, had a wheel alignment, stabalizer links are OK. Now the mechanic at this place is telling me that it's because I have "bent rims". Could this be the cause of the shimmy, especially since it didn't happen before I got the new tires? Seems to me it could be defective tires. Please let me know what your best guess is. I'll be happy to answer any other questions you have that I didn't specify the answers to.
Rims have a maximum amount of runout allowed and that needs to be measured in the groove where the bead of the tire sits--not on the outside wall where paint runs can cause greater tolerance.
If your tires didn't shake with the old ones, you probably don't have a bent rim.
Were they saying ALL the rims are bent!!! Usually people get one from hitting a curb or something.
i am not sure if this was tried,have the tire guy rotate the tires and see if the pattern changes.hopefully from the steering wheel you will feel the vibration thru the seat or it may disapear.maybe then he will exchange a couple of tires.
I hope this is as straightforward as I think. I have a 1998 Mustang GT with only about 52K miles on it. I noticed this week that it was having trouble starting, so I got a new battery from Walmart. That seemed to fix the problem for a few days. Then last night I was sitting at a light near my house when the car started beeping, my electrical accessories went out, and the car died.
My wife walked home, and drove her truck back. We jump started the Mustang, but it died after a few seconds. So, with some help, I pushed it home and there it sits.
I think it's the alternator, which is pretty easy to fix. What do you think?
Hard to say but it sounds logical. You could get your battery all charged up, then drive somewhere nearby and have the alternator tested...or you can take the alternator off and have it bench tested. If you put in a freshly charged battery and the car runs fine, then really you've pretty much answered your question that it must be the alternator.
I have a 1998 crown victoria. The other day, the engine just stalled on me while I was driving. The battery light was lit up. however, it started right away. The same thing happened again yesterday. I am not sure what is wrong. can you help me out and let me know what could be wrong and how to fix it. Thanks, I appreciate your advice.
I have a 1997 Chevy suburban 1/2 ton 4x4 350 vortec. The vehicle starts and runs till it it gets warm then dies. it will not start back up until it cools off. while it is warm and I turn the key to start i do not hear the fuel pump cycle like I normally do.The check engine light does not come on.I was told to change the fuel pump relay so I did and it is doing the same thing. where should I start. Is there some kind of sensor. Also the vehicle is not overheating and the fuel filter has been changed.
Well, I took off the alternator and brought it to an auto parts store. They tested it and said it was fine. I'm stumped. I put the alternator back on, and then I checked all the fuses, no problems there. Tomorrow I'm going to borrow a battery charger, charge up the battery, start the car, and then try to trace the problem.
I guess it could be some kind of computer issue, I remember years ago I had an Escort that kind of did the same thing. It was some kind of ignition module as I recall.
Well you're doing the right thing by taking a step by step process with it. Every time you eliminate a possible cause you are one step closer to a solution. Computer failure is pretty rare, but sensor failure isn't.
i have a 1999 vw beetle automatic trans with a 2.0 the trans will shift fine one day and the next day it wont come out of first gear took it to a transmission shop and thay hooked it up to the computer and thay told me it was fine and that there was a electric problem some where and it was better to take it to a vw dealer but the vw dealer sucks here please help me and let me know how to fix it thank you
I think I have a clue... I charged up the battery, then put it back in the Stang. I read the voltage across it, 12.5V. Then I started the car and let it idle, with all electric accessories off. The voltage: 12.0!
So that tells me the alternator is not charging the battery. I read somewhere that the alternator has a fuse link to protect it. Could it be that this burned out, or is the alternator really bad, even though it tested good?
A month ago, my 2002 Mitsubishi Mirage (used car) started to give off this intermittent 'grinding sound' (or is it known as 'pinking sound') whenever I accelerate. At first I thought it was due to dust accumulated at my brakes but it still came on after several power washing. I'm wondering if this has got anything to do with the oil change I had done for the previous 3k miles or is it the gas octane (89) I'm using
Now, my car is due for servicing (45K miles) and will not want to pay a hefty sum of maintenance to those maintenance shops waiting to 'rip' their customers off. In fact, I am also considering a tire rotation/wheel alignment in addition to the usual oil change.
Can anyone please advise me what are the possible causes to the sound and how much will I be expecting to spend on the maintenance/repair?
Try a tankful of highest octane gas you can find and see what happens. If it is indeed "pinging" that you are hearing, it should go away when you do that.
Well I can't hear what you're hearing. Real "pinging" sounds like a chain dragging under your car. It only happens on acceleration when the car is working or under load. You may need to have a friend or mechanic ride with you to determine if this is really pinging. If it is and it's heavy and continuous, it can damage your engine.
Yup. That's what it sounds like. It needs to be looked into.
Thanks for your patience and prompt response. I just want to gather more advice before I go to the mechanic. Majority of mechanics are happy to tell you that the pinging sound is serious. Hence, it helps to have some preparatory advice before I bring my car to the workshop.
Could you offer some advice as to what parts I am looking to replace when I bring the car to the mechanic? Any idea on the range of cost this will incur?
Well pinging is usually a condition caused by either wrong engine timing or by heavy carbonization of the cylinders. Your car's computer is supposed to adjust your timing for you as it senses engine "knock"---so perhaps one of your engine's sensors is out of whack and the computer can't adjust your timing properly.
Heavy pinging that doesn't go away will most certainly harm your engine, and can punch a hole clean through your pistons.
Hey kids- My 2001 nissan sentra GXE started having big time performance issues- like not being able accelerate very quickly and making funny popcorn popping like noises in the muffler region of my car. The check engine soon light was on as well so I brought it to my local mechanics who have done a great job for all of my cars.
They inspected the engine light and multiple codes came on. They cleared the codes, took it on a road test and only the 02 sensor & engine lean codes came back. My car had a engine misfire from Cylinder #1 and they replaced the 02 sensor, 4 spark plugs, and cylinder #1 coil and they cleared the codes. They took it on a test drive and the codes did not return. When I went to pick up my car after work as soon as I turned the car on the check engine light came on. I left it for the mechanics to keep working on. They told me that the error was still indicating a bad 02 sensor even thought they had just replaced it. They put another one in- cleared it- drove it and the light came back on- they put in a 3rd new one- drove it for 5 miles and it did not come back on. So I pick it up again and drive home and 6 miles down the road the light comes back on. I brought it back to them this morning.
Anyone else have or have heard of this problem where 02 sensors that are new keep causing the check engine light to come back on?
All of the performance issues are gone since they worked on it the first time- its just that stupid check engine light that keeps coming on, and I need it to stay off because you can't pass emmisions inspection in AZ with it on.
The scan tool that says that an O2 sensor is defective hasn't been invented yet. First, diagnostic trouble codes refer to sensor circuits, not necessarily the sensors themselves. Second, if there's an engine driveability problem causing the engine to run lean, then the O2 sensors are going to keep reporting a lean mixture and your mechanic can keep replacing them until the threads in the manifolds are worn out without fixing the problem. Find out why it's running lean.
My 1998 Chrysler concorde (125k) spews out an excessive amount of exhaust upon acceleration and my gas mileage is low. I had the pcv valve replaced by the dealer who said this may fix it or else it may be a valve. I don't drive this car much anymore (approx 1k per month), do you think it might last for another 12-15k? If not is there something inexpensive I can do to get it to last that long? Thanks,
Time to stop guessing and throwing parts at the car and get some quantitative data.
Not sure what you mean by "excessive exhaust" as this could be BLACK like unburned fuel or BLUE like burning oil----those two colors mean two very different problems.
So you'll need to do a cylinder leakdown test to see if you have excessive engine wear and piston ring blow-by, and if not, then a fuel/air analysis/computer scan to see if you are misfiring on one or more cylinders. If you are spewing out unburned fuel, you are going to wreck your catalytic converter pretty darn quick.
what are good and bad numbers? I had my two front 15,000 mileage Kumho tires done- both rims passed radial (up and down) runouts were .005 and .008. the road force with the tires was 17 pounds on one tire - rated as a pass
and on the 2nd tire was 26 pounds, rated "marginal" for the tire but the tire/wheel assembly was a "pass" .
1. are these numbers good or bad? 2. what do you pay for a road force hunter 9700 machine balance? Nissan dealer in So Carolina want $40 per tire (!!) Infiniti dealer wants $35 per tire
The Hunter machine gave "good" and "bad" indications, which you explained in your post. I think you can trust the machine to be objective.
If your rims were measured with the tires still on them, then you didn't get a complete picture of the state of the wheels - just an indication. The best way to measure wheels is with the tires off and then measure exactly where the beads seat.
There is a "quirk" in the Hunter machine where it judges wheels to the same criteria as the tires and the assembly. This means that a horrible wheel will "pass". However, what's important is the assembly value. Just keep the wheel peculiarity in mind when trying to judge the wheels by themselves.
When my wheels on my car were being checked for uneven rolling, the dealer sounded like 12 and under were good numbers--but the auto company felt that 18 and under was okay. When they shipped tires that had been prescreened, those tires were 18 and under (I may be off 1-2 units on the 18). On my car when the 3 wheels were below 10 and one was 11 or 12, I could feel a slight uneveness with the 12 on the front. The Hunter suggestion is put the two highest reading tires on the back.
I know that 20K later, the wheels and tires are still balanced. This supports my premise that round and balanced tires stay balanced a lot longer (if rotated properly at 6-8 thousand miles).
I have a metallic grinding noise when I shift from 1st to 2nd and sometimes 3rd, on a cold engine. This sound is new. Also, the oil and battery lights flash for a second when I start the car - Are they all related? If not, are you at least familiar with the noise? It is freaking me out. Thanks! AJ
Not gears grinding, but it sort of sounds like a table saw (or one of those kind of instruments) cutting through wood. That is okay if you cannot identify it - I just wanted to "self-diagnose" before I took it to the car place!
Weird...could be linkage rattling or something loose in the upper shifter mechanism...there are all kinds of little springs an balls and stuff that can get loose.
I HAVE A 1994 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE, HAS A 3.8 ENGINE, 79000 MILES. MY PROBLEMS STARTED A COUPLE MONTHS AGO, WHEN THE CAR STARTED IDLING VERY POORLY AND THE TACHOMETER WOULD GO UP AND DOWN. THEN IT WOULD START IDLING FINE AND DRIVE PERFECT. MIGHT RUN GOOD FOR A FEW MINUTES OR HALF A DAY. I HAD A SCAN DONE AND IT DIDNT GIVE A SPECIFIC SENSOR, BUT WAS TOLD TO TRY REPLACING CAM SHAFT SENSOR. ( I DO REMEMBER THE PRINT OUT SAID SOMETHING ABOUT NOT TOGGLING)I DID BUT IT CHANGED NOTHING. I REPLACED MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR STILL DIDNT IMPROVE. AFTER A WHILE IT GOT TO WHERE IT WAS ACTING UP MORE FREQUENTLY. I TOOK IT TO A GARAGE AND HE SAID HE FOUND SOME LOOSE GROUNDS, I WENT AND PICKED IT UP AND STILL HAD THE PROBLEM, TOOK IT BACK TO THE GARAGE AND HE CALLED AND SAID THE BATTERY CABLES WERE SPARKING (ARCING) WHEN ENGINE WAS UNDER A LOAD. HE FIXED THAT. SINCE THEN THE TACH GOING UP AND DOWN HAS STOPPED. IT RUNS GOOD MOST THE TIME, BUT STILL HAS A LITTLE MISS. ALSO, SOMETIMES WHEN STARTING IT DIES, IT HAS STARTED RIGHT UO EVERY TIME EXCEPT ONCE AND THAT TIME I HAD TO CRANK IT SEVERAL TIMES. I DECIDED TO GET BRAVE A DRIVE OUT IN THE COUNTRY TO SEE HOW IT DID AFTER DRIVING FOR 20 OR 30 MILES. IT DIED FOUR TIMES. EVERY TIME I JUST PUT IN NEUTRAL WHILE STILL ROLLING AND STARTED IT RIGHT BACK UP. DRIVING THE 20 MILES BACK IT DIDNT DIE ONCE. TODAY I DROVE IT AROUND TOWN AND DIDNT DIE ONCE. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS STILL ON, AND I ALSO NOTICED THAT THE TRACTION CONTROL TURNS ITSELF OFF WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND I CANNOT TURN THE TRACTION CONTROL BACK ON. (NOT THAT I CARE CAUSE I DONT LIKE THE TRACTION CONTROL ANYWAY) ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED, THANKS
I've got a 1989 ford t-bird. She's been good to me but lately it seems I can't give her enough batteries and alternators to keep her running. The parking brake light is always on even though the parking brake isn't. It's affected my blinkers but the hazards work. I checked all the fuses and they're all good but after I get a new battery in she'll die in about a week after that. Something's killing my alternator which in turn is not allowing my battery to charge back up. An interesting note is that even though the hazards work my rear driver tailight won't always blink. I'm gonna replace the whole blinker and hopefully it will just be a short but I've got a sinking feeling I won't be that lucky. Anyone else out there have similar problems? Any advice would be appreciated. thanks, -Eddie
Best turn your CAPS LOCK off and retype your post...most people in online forums will ignore any postings typed all the CAPS as they are too hard to read.
If your battery is being drained and you are using your alternator to charge it all the way back up again, that's what's killing your alternators. You can't use the alternator to charge up a completely dead battery without damaging it eventually.
So until you find out what is draining your battery, you'd better recharge your battery on a charger.
I have a 1995 SL 500 and my sensors are reading 20-30 mph slower and its causing additional problems to my computer, the worst being the top will not go up or down unless I clear the memory by removing the positive battery cable. Anyone have this problem before and if so, please help.....
Is there any way to prolong the life of the outer C-V joint boots in fwd cars? Some say to use silicone spray, but doesn't silicone contain petroleum distillates which actually attack rubber over time?
When I drain and refill my '98 Nissan Frontier with the spec'd amount of oil (3 3/4 quarts), the dipstick always indicates a rather significant overfill. Of course, I change the filter also. Should I go by the dipstick or by the specs? (I've never had this problem with my other vehicles in 30 years of ownership.)
Hi Mr. Shiftright, only me (Candie) yet AGAIN. I think my car is haunted. (Joking) but seriously, for 3 weeks the power locks would not work. The car would unlock but not lock. When I tried to "unlock" I would hear a dull motor like noise and therefore assumed something was dead. I went out today and low and behold the door locks lock and unlock. I haven't a CLUE what is going on now.
I had a similar problem only one time when I first got the car (9/04) and I put the back window down and it would not go up. My mechanic fixed it (or so he said) but I am wondering if this is related to my above problem with the locks? In other words, my electrical system? I can't imagine why something would not work one day (for 3 weeks) and then suddenly work again, can you?
Any suggestions? I'm about worn out with questions regarding this vehicle. It's only got 29,000 miles on it to date, and I never expected so many problems.
Okay, that's just engine wear...probably worn rings...not much you can do, but it can still run for a long long time, Once you start burning a quart of oil every 500 miles or so, the end is near.
No way to preserve CV boots other than always replace them with top quality boots, not stuff from Sri Lanka or wherever.
I tend to trust the dipstick reading but sometimes you can be fooled, say if the oil pan has been dented. You may wish to check this; otherwise, I'd check the oil level after you've changed the oil and driven for a few miles.
Over-filling isn't great as it might blow out engine seals.
Sorry I have no experience with this car or the system it uses for door locking.
You may want to use the "Browse by Vehicle" feature to the left of this page and see if you can comment on this problem in various Cavalier forums. Try one forum at a time, though, don't try multiple postings.
Just changed my hydrolic lifters in my 1995 Grand Am Gt V6 3.1L; and 3 of my lifters now wont pump the oil through when i adjust my valve lash tighter; but when its lose shes fine.
Hi, My 2003 Honda CRV has a "no service battery". The test indicator window turned red saying "distilled water". The test window comes up, but a mechanic we spoke to said not to put water there. Where do we add the water? :confuse:
At the oil change place the technician is asking me change the power steering fuid and fuel injector cleaning. My car is a 2003 Corolla and has 20,000 miles on it. The car works perfectly. No problems.
The fluid change will cost me about $140 and fuel injector cleaning another 150. Do I need to do this at this stage?
Comments
Thanks in advance.
-Brian
Sounds like bad tires to me, too, especially since the shimmy and vibration are speed-specific.
If your tires didn't shake with the old ones, you probably don't have a bent rim.
Were they saying ALL the rims are bent!!! Usually people get one from hitting a curb or something.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My wife walked home, and drove her truck back. We jump started the Mustang, but it died after a few seconds. So, with some help, I pushed it home and there it sits.
I think it's the alternator, which is pretty easy to fix. What do you think?
I have a 1998 crown victoria. The other day, the engine just stalled on me while I was driving. The battery light was lit up. however, it started right away.
The same thing happened again yesterday. I am not sure what is wrong. can you help me out and let me know what could be wrong and how to fix it. Thanks, I appreciate your advice.
I guess it could be some kind of computer issue, I remember years ago I had an Escort that kind of did the same thing. It was some kind of ignition module as I recall.
Any other ideas? Thanks!
So that tells me the alternator is not charging the battery. I read somewhere that the alternator has a fuse link to protect it. Could it be that this burned out, or is the alternator really bad, even though it tested good?
Thanks!
Now, my car is due for servicing (45K miles) and will not want to pay a hefty sum of maintenance to those maintenance shops waiting to 'rip' their customers off. In fact, I am also considering a tire rotation/wheel alignment in addition to the usual oil change.
Can anyone please advise me what are the possible causes to the sound and how much will I be expecting to spend on the maintenance/repair?
What if the highest octane gas does not solve the problem? I've been using the mid range octane gas for months but never have such problem.
Thanks for your patience and prompt response. I just want to gather more advice before I go to the mechanic. Majority of mechanics are happy to tell you that the pinging sound is serious. Hence, it helps to have some preparatory advice before I bring my car to the workshop.
Could you offer some advice as to what parts I am looking to replace when I bring the car to the mechanic? Any idea on the range of cost this will incur?
Heavy pinging that doesn't go away will most certainly harm your engine, and can punch a hole clean through your pistons.
My 2001 nissan sentra GXE started having big time performance issues- like not being able accelerate very quickly and making funny popcorn popping like noises in the muffler region of my car. The check engine soon light was on as well so I brought it to my local mechanics who have done a great job for all of my cars.
They inspected the engine light and multiple codes came on. They cleared the codes, took it on a road test and only the 02 sensor & engine lean codes came back. My car had a engine misfire from Cylinder #1 and they replaced the 02 sensor, 4 spark plugs, and cylinder #1 coil and they cleared the codes. They took it on a test drive and the codes did not return. When I went to pick up my car after work as soon as I turned the car on the check engine light came on. I left it for the mechanics to keep working on. They told me that the error was still indicating a bad 02 sensor even thought they had just replaced it. They put another one in- cleared it- drove it and the light came back on- they put in a 3rd new one- drove it for 5 miles and it did not come back on. So I pick it up again and drive home and 6 miles down the road the light comes back on. I brought it back to them this morning.
Anyone else have or have heard of this problem where 02 sensors that are new keep causing the check engine light to come back on?
All of the performance issues are gone since they worked on it the first time- its just that stupid check engine light that keeps coming on, and I need it to stay off because you can't pass emmisions inspection in AZ with it on.
Thanks
-Daniel
Thanks,
Not sure what you mean by "excessive exhaust" as this could be BLACK like unburned fuel or BLUE like burning oil----those two colors mean two very different problems.
So you'll need to do a cylinder leakdown test to see if you have excessive engine wear and piston ring blow-by, and if not, then a fuel/air analysis/computer scan to see if you are misfiring on one or more cylinders. If you are spewing out unburned fuel, you are going to wreck your catalytic converter pretty darn quick.
I had my two front 15,000 mileage Kumho tires done- both rims passed radial (up and down) runouts were .005 and .008.
the road force with the tires was 17 pounds on one tire - rated as a pass
and on the 2nd tire was 26 pounds, rated "marginal" for the tire but the tire/wheel assembly was a "pass" .
1. are these numbers good or bad?
2. what do you pay for a road force hunter 9700 machine balance? Nissan dealer in So Carolina want $40 per tire (!!) Infiniti dealer wants $35 per tire
The Hunter machine gave "good" and "bad" indications, which you explained in your post. I think you can trust the machine to be objective.
If your rims were measured with the tires still on them, then you didn't get a complete picture of the state of the wheels - just an indication. The best way to measure wheels is with the tires off and then measure exactly where the beads seat.
There is a "quirk" in the Hunter machine where it judges wheels to the same criteria as the tires and the assembly. This means that a horrible wheel will "pass". However, what's important is the assembly value. Just keep the wheel peculiarity in mind when trying to judge the wheels by themselves.
Hope this helps.
I know that 20K later, the wheels and tires are still balanced. This supports my premise that round and balanced tires stay balanced a lot longer (if rotated properly at 6-8 thousand miles).
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks!
AJ
On a Chrysler Stratus V6 2.5l model 1995, that we have chage the gearbox, we have electrical probems wen we put he engiene on.
The screen-wipper, the electrical door locking, and all the dashboard don't work.
At time on the dashboard is write "NO BUS"
The engine an the new gearbox work well.
We ave controlled the fuse, wiring, and relay and we don't find problems.
Is someone have an idea.
We serch an electrical diagram of this car. If you can send copy of it it will be great.
Thanks in adavnce, and sorry for my poor english. We are outside US.
Best regards.
Marc
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/dc/62/09- 00823d801edc62.jsp
thanks,
-Eddie
Host
So until you find out what is draining your battery, you'd better recharge your battery on a charger.
When I drain and refill my '98 Nissan Frontier with the spec'd amount of oil (3 3/4 quarts), the dipstick always indicates a rather significant overfill. Of course, I change the filter also. Should I go by the dipstick or by the specs? (I've never had this problem with my other vehicles in 30 years of ownership.)
I had a similar problem only one time when I first got the car (9/04) and I put the back window down and it would not go up. My mechanic fixed it (or so he said) but I am wondering if this is related to my above problem with the locks? In other words, my electrical system? I can't imagine why something would not work one day (for 3 weeks) and then suddenly work again, can you?
Any suggestions? I'm about worn out with questions regarding this vehicle. It's only got 29,000 miles on it to date, and I never expected so many problems.
Thanks once again
Candie
I tend to trust the dipstick reading but sometimes you can be fooled, say if the oil pan has been dented. You may wish to check this; otherwise, I'd check the oil level after you've changed the oil and driven for a few miles.
Over-filling isn't great as it might blow out engine seals.
You may want to use the "Browse by Vehicle" feature to the left of this page and see if you can comment on this problem in various Cavalier forums. Try one forum at a time, though, don't try multiple postings.
MrShiftright
Host
anyone know what the problem is?
My 2003 Honda CRV has a "no service battery". The test indicator window turned red
saying "distilled water". The test window comes up, but a mechanic we spoke to said not to put water there. Where do we add the water? :confuse:
The fluid change will cost me about $140 and fuel injector cleaning another 150. Do I need to do this at this stage?