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    workdawgworkdawg Member Posts: 3
    Somebody help me out here......where in the world are the spark plugs on this van??? :cry: :cry :cry: "
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    suvshopper4suvshopper4 Member Posts: 1,110
    Isn't that model hydrogen powered?

    HTH.
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    workdawgworkdawg Member Posts: 3
    ">Ok now I am really looking stupid? Hydrogen powered?? I haven't a clue. My daddy always worked on my vehicles before.....let me explain problem.....was running fine....filled gas tank.....ran fine home..........was parked for about 2 weeks.......ran fine first 10 miles then like all hell broke loose...........it does not idle well, it sounds as though sputtering when acclerated and the whole daggone van shakes when driving. Someone suggested SeaFoam.....tried this but still doing same. ????? :(
    Pattie B
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    aguilaraguilar Member Posts: 1
    I NEED HELP MY NISSAN ALTIMA 1996 RAN WITH OUT OIL AND NOW THAT IT HAS OIL IT SHAKES AND WONT GO OVER 25 WITH OUT SHAKING THE OIL LIGHT NEVER CAME ON
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    2me2me Member Posts: 7
    I checked the codes and got a 51 lean fuel error and nothing else. could this be the fuel pump???
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Have the fuel pressure checked with a proper pressure gauge.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    At the business end of the spark plug wires:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8018ac4a.gif
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    smallwoodsmallwood Member Posts: 1
    my 320 ml 2001, had a test done and the people told me it is the fuel trim ? what is a fuel trim and how do i fix it .... :cry:
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    sterjesssterjess Member Posts: 2
    Hello all, I have a question of why my oil pressure light won't go out after I just rebuilt my
    engine in my '92 Geo Metro. I used all standard size bearings. I pulled my oil pressure sending
    unit and started it to see if any oil is getting to it and oil started coming out of the hole so
    oil is being pumped, just not very much it seems. When I put it together I used assembly lube on
    all the bearings, could it be that this lube is blocking the passages some and might just take
    awhile of running to get through? I let it run for a minute or so and pulled my oil fill cap off
    to see if any oil was being thrown by the cam and it doesn't appear that it is. I also noticed
    when I was putting it together the oil passages on the head gasket I used didn't seem to be the
    same sizes as the passages on the head and block. The rebuild kit I used is by ITM if anyone has
    used them before. I've only let it run a couple of minutes since the rebuild but since the light
    isn't going off I'm not sure it's a good idea to let it run much more w/o knowing why it doesn't
    appear to have oil pressure. Any input would be appreciated.
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    shanmacshanmac Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone give a sugestion as to what the ticking is on my Passport??? Have been told 4 different things
    1. the lifters
    2. timing belt
    3. the injectors
    4. bad gas
    this has been going on for a couple of weeks and almost sounds like the fan blade hitting it's cover.
    Many thanks to those who can help!! :cry: :confuse:
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    There isn't "a fuel trim", it's a condition. The engine control computer turns fuel injectors on and off to provide the correct air/fuel mixture, based on inputs from several sensors monitoring engine operating conditions. After the fuel is burned, the oxygen sensors in the exhaust system send a signal back to the computer to fine tune the mixture. If the sensors signal back that there's excessive oxygen in the exhaust indicating a lean mixture, the computer will start increasing the amount of fuel supplied (+ fuel trim). If the sensors detect low oxygen indicating a rich mixture, the computer will decrease the fuel supplied (- fuel trim). If the computer reaches the limit of how much fuel it can add or take away, a code is set for fuel trim. If the code was for + trim, the engine's running lean. If the code was for - trim, the engine's running rich.
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    tim5660tim5660 Member Posts: 4
    My 93 Toyota Land Cruiser failed the idle portion of the GA emission test. All other portions passed, but the CO% at idle is 1.70, while 1.20 is passing (the 2500rpm number was .003, with 1.20 to pass). They said it didn't contain enough air (?). I did an ignition tune up prior to the test, and have checked the air filter and cleaned the throttle body since, the attendant recommended high octane and injector cleaner to improve this. What else can I do, or is this something for a professional?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You hear this when your car is idling and you lift the hood and listen, or are you talking about hearing it as you are driving?

    If AT IDLE with you looking in, I can tell you to eliminate BAD GAS

    If WHILE RUNNING, you can eliminate injectors

    So what you need to do is tell us if this is at IDLE or running, and if the noise increases steadily as you accelerate, and the noise decreases in frequency as you decelerate---or if the noise stays the same no matter what you do?
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    jackiewjackiew Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Cadillac and when the air temperature is cold outside, it will not shift into reverse or forward until it has warmed up for several minutes. One mechanic told me I needed to rebuild the transmission, but another retired mechanic feels that all it needs is to have the transmission filter replaced. Has anyone out there had similar problems with the cadillacs? And how was it resolved?
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    mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Alcan and Mr shiftright if you remember the troubles I was having with the CEL and drawing code 159 MAF that I mentioned in post #1830. To repeat before I order the MAf do either of you think, that the air filter box being exposed (to the orange colored top of the filter that I can see in the front passenger side of the corner which is before MAF and the throttle housing could be the cause of any problems. Alcan you say a lot of times the intake housing has cracks and is taking in more air than it should. Could the air be coming in at the corner of the filter housing and be causing any problems?
    Would a lean air mixture cause loss of power in higher mountain ranges where air is even thinner?
    Also could MAF being out of whack for 3 months cause the newer symptom I described on may last day leaving Greece (on the way to airport car was shuddering a little at around 65 MPH and higher) After my wife dropped me off symptoms persisted till she got back to city and lower speeds (45 MPH ) and then car seemd fine to her aside from CEL.
    I am sending her back with new Filter and will examine closing of air filter box when I get back to Athens. Should I buy a new MAf just in case, and if the answer is yes, are the Bosch ones that I see online OK? Or do I need an OEM Mazda (remanufactured only ).
    Thx a lot
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well if you were getting NO oil pressure the engine would sound like the hammers of hell.

    Best thing you can do first off is screw in a regular oil pressure gauge and see how much pressure you have. Don't mess around with idiot lights at this point.

    If your gauge shows unacceptable oil pressure there is probably an assembly issue somewhere, yes. You might drop the pan if you can and check the oil pump pickup tube and screen.
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    jackiewjackiew Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Cadillac and when the air temperature is cold outside, it will not shift into reverse or forward until it has warmed up for several minutes. One mechanic told me I needed to rebuild the transmission, but another retired mechanic feels that all it needs is to have the transmission filter replaced. Has anyone out there had similar problems with the cadillacs? And how was it resolved?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a sluggish valve body. A trans. service might help. Back in more sexist times they used to call this "morning sickness". If nothing works you can drop the valve body and have it thoroughly cleaned I think without tearing into the transmission proper.
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    crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    i got a feeling the O2 sensor may not have been hot enough due to waiting in line possibly.your high speed readings were great.maybe the engine was shut off in line.i would make sure you have clean engine oil in the engine,if you have to wait in line keep the engine running at a high idle to keep the O2 sensor good and hot.do not fill your gas tank immediately before your visit either.for the "retest"use gas which contains a small amount of alcohol(up to ten percent).i read that mixture helps lower emmisions.do not use high octane unless your manual calls for it or there is a detonation problem.high test may actually hurt the readings.after all this studying you should ace the exam.
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    imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,177
    I agree with all crank said. For our tests we used to have here in Ohio, adding a tank of fuel with alcohol in it and before the test driving a long distance before stopping at the emission test facility would help. I had a recent oil change and drove about 15 miles down the interstate and then would 3-4 miles to the check site.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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    krossoverkrossover Member Posts: 2
    So my check engine light came on then went away after I stopped and restarted the care but noticed a loud squeek coming out of the distributor. 2 days later the car died on me at night. After doing research on the net, I figured it might be a tune-up issue so I begin doing a tune up when I break the ignitor in the distributor. As I go to remove the ignitor I stripped the screw head so I fork up $75 to have a guy come check it out. Upon removing the entire disturbutor he tells me that it's FROZEN because he couldn't turn the rotor manually and that I would need an entire new Distributor. Then and there I became weary of what he said because when the rotor was in (before I broke the ignitor) it would rotate when I started the care.
    So my question(s) is:
    -Is it true that if you can't rotate the rotor manually when the distrutor is out, it is damaged and needs replacement with an entirely new one?
    -How reliable is an after market distributor in your opinion?

    Any help and/or advice greatly appreciated.
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    boomer9boomer9 Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get any results from this rotten egg smell issue? My daughter just purchased a 2006 Toyota Solara and is getting this same smell. WE had the problem with a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner in the family as well.
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    I've not been reading messages for a while, so maybe you have gotter later replys.

    I would trust the manual for the amount of oil to add. If you are using the recommended filter. One smaller might mean less oil is needed - a larger one might show the underfill you are seeing. The engineers that designed the motor should have given the spec for the manual. You might not even have a correct dipstick in the motor.

    Cadillac Northstars almost all give a half quart low reading when the recommended 7 1/2 quarts are used. All the dipsticks seem to be wrong. If you put more oil into a Northstar to the 'full' mark on the dipstick, it just pulls it through the PCV system and burns it.
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Do you need to change the power steering fluid and have the injectors cleaned at 20,000 mile?

    No.

    Probably never need to have these services done.
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    bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The disc rotors are probably warped. This causes 'pulsing' when braking.

    The noise may be the 'wear sensors' which make a noise when the brake pads are worn out.

    Have your brakes fixed. It will probably need new rotors and pads.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Good advice except for the O2 sensor temp. According to my info it uses a heated sensor.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    "-Is it true that if you can't rotate the rotor manually when the distrutor is out, it is damaged and needs replacement with an entirely new one?"

    The distributor housing has 2 bushings which support the shaft. There should be virtually no resistance to the shaft turning whith the distributor off the engine.
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Any cracks or other damage in the air intake system after the MAF will allow unmetered air to enter the engine, causing a lean condition and pretty much all the symptoms you describe. A leak in the air filter housing won't do it, but brings up another possibility. Most MAF's use a heated wire, with the ECM monitoring the current through it. As airflow increases, there's more cooling effect on the hot wire and decreased current flow through it. If unfiltered air has been pulled through, check for a dust bunny on the MAF hot wire. Will insulate it and cause your symptoms. Can usually be cleaned by a blast of aerosol air intake cleaner after removing the MAF sensor. Don't get too Rambo with it, the wire's pretty thin.
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    joshtoyjoshtoy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Tacoma Pre-runner 4Cyl. Sluggish between 55-60 MPH, struggles on slight inclines. Just over 70,000 miles. Toyota of Augusta said $4500 for a new engine head. HELP!!! It runs better with a half tank or more of gas. Runs real bad with less than a 1/4 tank. HELP! :cry:
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Fuel pressure ok? Any exhaust restriction?
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    mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    I dont think you will remember my post. Its been sooo long and an ongoing process, but after I installed the tranny cooler which the mechanic disconnected and moved the radiator to do, the CEL started coming on at much lower engine rpms and temperature. Thats probably what caused the air filter box to open a crack, the pulling on the intake housing. I had blown it clean with Aerosol pre installing tranny cooler.
    Now I think I will either try aerosol on it again , carb cleaner,or just buy a new Bosch for $106 online.Do you have any experience with the carb cleaner? If you think its not a good idea , (wire is very thin I have seen it) ,do you think the Bosch will be ok not being OEM?
    I have to lug it to Greece and want to be sure about it . Mazda has reman only. Bosch has new ones
    Thx Alcan for your quick reply and time
    PGP :)
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    cornellpinoycornellpinoy Member Posts: 196
    On a '94 Olds Cutlass Supreme, the rear taillamps do not always illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed. However, the center brake light ALWAYS illuminates when the brake pedal is pressed. The taillamps illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed only if you play with the hazard switch.

    The bulbs in the taillamps are good. The turn signals and hazard flashers operate correctly.

    Any ideas?
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    fgmyedfgmyed Member Posts: 6
    We have 1996 BMZ Z3 and 1999 Infiniti I 30 and both cars windshield wiper fluid sprays do not work. When we try to turn it on we can hear the pump working and both reservoirs are full. My guess is lines are clogged. My question is how do you clean the lines? Thank you.
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    bbenenfeldbbenenfeld Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2002 lexus 430sc. i put on regular tires instead of the run flats and it handles much better. there is a place for a spare tire but no one knows where to get it. Please help. --bbenenfeld
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    bbenenfeldbbenenfeld Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2002 lexus 430sc. i put on regular tires instead of the run flats and it handles much better. there is a place for a spare tire but no one knows where to get it. Please help. --bbenenfeld
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's probably the nozzles themselves that are plugged. It's best to just get new ones installed--it's not expensive to do that. You can use a pin to clean the nozzles but that's usually just temporary. The lines really can't "plug" but they can fall off---of course, if the lines were loose you'd see fluid leaking out.
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    17181718 Member Posts: 3
    HELP!!!!!! Where is the thermostat located and how hard is it to replace? The heater and defroster in my 2000 Mazda is blowing plenty of air, but it's not getting hot......hoping this will be an easy do-it-yourself fix. :cry: thanks!
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    that's probably not your problem. What is your engine temperature gauge reading?
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    alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Mr. Shiftright is probably right, but here's the location for future reference:

    http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d801444ef.jpg
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    tim5660tim5660 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the input. You and others have mentioned adding alcohol, what type of alcohol do i use for this, or is it just called alcohol? is this hardware store stuff or automotive, and by 10%, do you mean volume (10% of the gas in the tank)? Once you mix in with the fuel, how long do you figure it takes to get through the system? Thanks again, I really am trying to ace this one!!
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    imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,177
    Some brands of gasoline have up to 10% ethanol in them along with proper other chemicals to help it disperse and stay dispersed. Speedway (a Marathan subsidiary) and Clark are two in this area. Often the off-brand gasolines have the alcohol added. In this state the pump must have a tag that says in letters 1/2 inch that the gas contains up to 10% ethanol.

    In a few metro areas the alcohol mixture is required as apart of meeting their EPA clean air standards in the summer.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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    rembrandtstlrembrandtstl Member Posts: 5
    ;) Hope someone can help. Having a no start problem. Replaced fuel pump & its wire harness, relay, injectors & their wire harness. Checked fuel pump fuse.
    Engine cranks. But NO power detected coming to the injectors.
    Dealer suggested it was the power control module instead of the OBD and gave us a drawing showing the PCM on the pass. side of the engine inside the van.
    BUT, we can't find it!!!! :confuse: The Haynes book doesn't show location either.
    Originally what started this episode was I accellerated from a stop and about 30mph heard a thump and the van died. Had a 1988 van fail the same way and replaced the fuel pump and everything was peachy. But this one!!!
    :cry: Any help with identifying the PCM or other suggestions as to problem?
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    mazda626atxmazda626atx Member Posts: 227
    Alcan please look at my post #2031
    Thx PGP
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    dlewarsdlewars Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a '95 Metro LSi.

    When I checked the oil, there was nothing registering on the dipstick.
    Added three quarts, and it still registered as low.

    I checked 4 days later, after the "check oil" light started coming on interminttently, and again there was barely anything on the dipstick, so I added two more and, again, barely a mark on the dipstick.

    How much oil should this puppy actually have?

    I don' t see any oil being leaked below or on the engine block.
    I don't see any smoke indicating I'm burning oil.
    The engine's not knocking.

    I do, however, have a non-stop 'check engine' light.
    The car was previously owned by a mechanic who said there was nothing wrong with it.

    I'm really at a loss about what to do with this oil issue. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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    shanmacshanmac Member Posts: 2
    the ticking is while idling and while driving, this starts as soon as I turn the key!! It does increase as I accelerate and seems to get louder. Any suggestions??? ;)
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like the lifters are noisy for some reason, based on what you tell me. Perhaps on your engine these are adjustable? If not, you have an upper engine oil pressure problem of some kind it sounds like.

    A good mechanic should be able to identify noisy lifters immediately and without question in his mind.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Take it back to the person who sold it to you and ask them to fix it or to be prepared to go to Small claims court. This sounds like a serious issue. You only have 3.3 quarts of oil in that engine.
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    dmwill1dmwill1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey Sorry I didn't get back for a while but you were right. It was the motor mounts. I changed all of them and it's fine now. Thanks
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    josefen247josefen247 Member Posts: 1
    ok, this problem started on new years eve. my alternator belt snapped and i had my father replace it. also replaced the power steering belt, it was getting worn. about 2 days later, it snaps again and i have to get my car towed home. i ended up buying a new alternator, from autozone, ended up having to replace it 3 times. finally took it to a garage and they replaced the power wire on the harness. it stopped making the noise for about 3 days, and it started again. i took it to midas and had them look at it, they couldnt find a problem. i havent snapped anymore belts since then, but it still makes the sound when its wet or if i start the car and the a/c is running, or, if im stopped at a red light with a/c on and when i go to accelerate, it starts again. i was told it could be my pulley, but i dont know. im confused and stressed! HELP!!! :confuse:
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    brandoncoloradbrandoncolorad Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, I have a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2. I have been having auto trans problems. The lights on the dash have been erratic, and some days it shifts real hard and other days it is fine. I took it to a transmission place, they told me it was a "neutral sensor." I assume what they found the problem to be is the "range/mode" sensor. I think this fits the problem better. Here are my questions.
    1) Would a faulty neutral sensor cause a problem like this?
    2) Do I have to go into console, or under car to replace the range/ mode sensor?
    3) Is it okay to buy one of these used (junkyard)?

    Thanks for any help!!!
    brandoncolorado At cliffhanger.com
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