Got a Quick, Technical Question?

rembrandtstl

Can anyone offer some advice or direct me to a site that will answer my question? :confuse:

rembrandtstl

superg1

The "check engine" light is on in my 2000 galant. I had a code scan done and it came back that the car is not getting fire to the number 4 cylinder. I changed both coil packs the spark plug wires and plugs. The problem was gone for about a week, but now the light is on and the car is hesitating again. I check the new plugs and they're all clean. What gives? :confuse:

Mr_Shiftright

They may mean an "idler pulley" which on some cars helps to guide the drive belt around.

Sounds like either an idler pulley bearing (not such a big deal) or a loose belt.

Mr_Shiftright

Sorry, a/t computer sensors are outside my expertise.

stapps

I need to replace the inner tie rods on my 97 mustang, but the rubber boot has a clamp that I've never seen before. How do I remove it(without breaking it)?

navyair

I have a '96 Chrysler Cirrus (62k miles) with a popping sound in the left front end. Believe it to be the shock/strut assembly. Haven't had the wheel off yet.

How much of a job is it to change out the shock/strut assembly? I've seen it listed on line as just a replacement shock, or a strut assembly. Looking for any "got you's" on doing the job. I have a set of coil spring compressors and will order the replacement shocks once I scope the job. (Might as well change both out at the same time).

Any tips/references sincerely appreciated.

pcfig

Not real mechanical,'99 Mazda Millenia S(93k),CEL on,codes from local repair shop indicate "bank 1&2 catayltic converter efficiency",dealer will do in-depth code read for $150,after reading similar posts suspect sensors(all 3??) need replacing,dealer cost=$300-$400(for just one i think),thought this would be good place to start because if it needs new converter(s) dealer is quoting $1000!!!!! So what do you think?Forget the in-depth code read and "try" to install new sensors?What is the process?Thanks so much for any advice/help/wake-up slap!!P.S.-Car runs great,no misses,hesitations,noises....nothing but CEL.

davidmilne

We have had a problem with our 1991 Volvo 940 rear suspension system. We have replaced the rear suspension system twice and each time soon after it was replaced the rear end of the car sagged. My mechanic tells me that it is a design error and it cannot be corrected. Does anyone know of a solution? Except for the rear suspension the car is in great shape.

qbrozen

check ipdusa.com.
I've noticed in their catalog that they offer something to fix "saggy rear suspension" on particular models. Never really paid much attention to it since it doesn't apply to mine, so I don't know the details.

ross

I have a 94 GEO Tracker with 128,000 miles. I am replacing the calipers, rotors, and hopefully the front wheel bearings. I got the rotors off and am trying to get the wheel bearings off but the actual is not what is in the Chilton book or autozone website. It shows a spindle, but there is a round hollow threaded ? and the bearing is inside it. I took the screws off the front wheel bearing lock plate and the book says to then remove the front wheel bearing lock nut and thrust washer. I am looking at the round thing that the screws went in, but there is no washer or lock nut ( unless it is behind the round plate with the screw holes in it) and am afraid if I try to force it off, I will screw up the threads in front of it. Does it screw off or what? Thanks for any help. The manual is for 86-95 so going for a different year doesn't help. I tried online for the Storm or Metro, but did not find anything on them. I am stuck! :mad:

lancerfixer

Yup. IPD. They've got a rear suspension kit that basically "back-converts" the self-levelling rear suspension (called Nivomats) to a conventional type. It's actually quite a bit less expensive than the Nivomats, as well, and will fix your problem.

gtt1

I have a 73 Eldorado, when you put it into Rerverse it bangs bad, like a broken motor mount, or like if the idle was too high.
Mounts, axles, CV joints are all good and the engine does not move or shift around. Going into Drive also does it, but not nearly as bad.
The engine idle is fine and it shift good one you get it into gear, with no slipping.
This is the TH425 and I have not been able to find anything at all about it on the net.
Please help

bolivar

On a newer model Cadallic than yours (early 90's???? Don't really remember.) with this kind of problem - someone that appeared knowledgable said the 'big bang' was a symptom of a bad problem. A clutch broken or some such thing. Indicated if it wasn't repaired, big damage to the transmission was upcoming.

mike062079

my 99 grand am is getting bad gas mileage(about 17 mpg highway) ive changed plugs an wires but theres not any improvement. no codes are being thrown. i dont want to spend money and just start replacing things. have any ideas like an O2 sensor??

lancerfixer

Check your tire pressure, too.

burdawg

Check the wheel alignment also.

user777

sure: besides driving style and tire inflation pressure and alignment, the O2 sensor, a clogged CAT, stuck injector(s), dirty air filter, MAF sensor or EGR valve, binding brake or axle bearings...engine running at wrong (low) temperature, transmission problem (not going into OverDrive)...

who's to know?

seems like more and more people are sensitive to poor mileage with the cost of fuel... maybe there's a specialist that does ONLY this sort of root cause work.

if not, i imagine there would be a business there, but people wouldn't be too interested in paying much for the analysis. don't know how much is possible through an OBD-ii reader alone.

clas

I have a 1997 Oldmobile Cutlass with a 3.1 V6. A month ago it started bucking while in motion. Then the car quit all together. The engine would crank but not fire up. The fuel pump is good but will not activate unless I manually place a jumper wire where the Fuel pump relay goes. We also noticed that the fans are no longer working either. Anyone have a similar problem? We ran a jumper wire from the body to the side of the relay that is supposed to be grounded and the relay activated the fuel pump and the engine started.

fordputz

definately a vacuum problem had the probem on same vehicle. this vehicle is trouble. abs, brakes, cat converters, intake runners, cv joint, press brake to shift won't work on and on and on, good luck!

fordputz

check grounding to your relay box, all that at once probably means several relays don't have groung. batt cable may have a smaller wire that has corroded of.

jellohead

Can someone tell me where the doors sensors are located in a 2000 Ford Excursion?

sirwilliam

My stepdaughter has a 1995 Dodge neon sport with 168000 miles. The other day her engine started make noise and stranded her on the way to school. Her dad had it towed to the wrecking yard where he works. He did some minor investigating and found it was a possible blown head gasket. If the engine needs replaced he can get a used one through he place of business. He said the only problem was the 1995 was a model where only a 1995 engine would fit and when they find one it would be approx $1750. Does anyone know if there are other options short of rebuilding? I do not have access to the car now but the vin# is 1B3ES67CXSD580633.

Mr_Shiftright

Well first off I was struck by the vagueness of the diagnosis. A head gasket IS or it ISN'T. It's pretty apparent.

But the question really is, IF it was a head gasket, why replace the engine unless daughter just ran the engine regardless of all kinds of noises, alarm bells, overheating, etc that blown head gaskets tend to signal.

Blown head gaskets are no strangers to the Dodge Neon. So here's what I'd do.

Determine for sure the head gasket is bad.

Pull the head and examine the engine internally. Unless a rod is knocking, chances are you can machine the head, change the oil, flush the coolant, slap on a new gasket and have a car again.

The used engine routine isn't all that great an option in this particular case because these engines are prone to head gasket failure. So, if you have a 1995 used engine, what have you got here?

qbrozen

And, adding to what was already said and asked ... why the heck would a used engine from a scrapyard cost $1750??? You could get an entire '95 Neon for that kind of money, and it wouldn't have 168k miles!

Mr_Shiftright

Maybe they meant with labor included.

More like $1,000 for a 1995 Neon, maybe $1,500 for a mint one from a dealer.

alcan

The quote might not be too far out of line. Check this out:

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Mr_Shiftright

oops! That link's busted.

pgilbert

My 1988 Corolla sporadically refuses to allow the ignition key to turn. After jiggling one or several minutes it will suddenly turn and thus operate the starter motor normally. Trying another of our numerous keys for this car apparently does not help. I wonder if spraying in a lubricant would be OK - or might this be a bad idea, with all the wiring involved in the mechanism? The logical ignition key replacement job does not appeal as a solution.

fizzgex

I have a question!

The windshield wipers on our '93 Ford Tempo go on at random intervals, turning the rear left turn signal on and causing the front left headlight to dim (we got pulled over for this last night). Is this a wiring problem that can easily be fixed? We're well aware that this car is . . . not up to regular standards. There seems to be many electrical problems with the car, including its inability to lock or roll down the windows.

Mr_Shiftright

NO! No "spray". Use only graphite lock lubricant. If that doesn't work, then the tumblers are just too worn out and you'll have to go to a locksmith and have a new one installed (or a new lock assembly).

E3MP6

3800 S2, (not supercharged). Need to change plugs and wires, but can't reach 2 of the 3 on the transverse mounted engine. Chilton manual says I can rotate the engine forward a few inches by removing the bolts on the front mounted wishbone motor brackets. No problem. They also say to either chain/hoist the engine (safety/ put it back in place), but I don't have one. Alternatively, they show a screw/bar with hooks on the end that can be placed in specific holes/brackets to allow the engine to rock forward w/o dropping.

I can't find (a) where do I put this hook/bar/screw thing and (b) where can I buy one?

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like a dealer tool if it fits into a specific bracket.

jcoel04

My Mazda MX6 LX has power window - which went out on it last week. The problem is that the windows were down at the time. I have disassembled the door in order to manually raise the window but it is "locked" down. Is there some way to release this so that the window can be raised until I can get a new switch?

bolivar

In general, for power windows, you are going to have to remove the window motor in order to manually raise the window. If you can do this, you might have to reinstall the motor to keep the window up. Or tape it up. On the inside, with a couple of strips of duct tape would make it about as secure as with the motor installed.

And, how do you know the switch is the problem? Your motor may have quit. If you tear into it, pull the connector to the motor. There should be only 2 wires. Put a volt meter across these wires at the connector. Push the window button for up. (With key 'on' of course.) There should be 12volts there. Push the window button for down. There should be a -12volts there. (In any case the voltage should reverse for up and down.) If you get these reverse 12volts, the switch and wiring are fine. And the motor is dead. If you don't get these voltages, the problem is in the switch or wiring.

bri3

Im getting a 16 code for an obd1 system wich told me that my egr position sensor or circuit was the fault. I checked the position sensor and it checked out all right. this only leaves the ecm as the culprite do you agree.

steine13

Real men do this by placing the car firmly against something solid, like a tree, a garage, or a mother-in-law [click&clack trademark joke] and torquing the engine in first gear.
I've never done this, but I've heard a local mechanic desribe it on the radio... a web search might really help you out.
Good luck,
-Mathias

imidazol97

>tree,

I'd expect a round dent in the front bumper if much pressure is applied to the tree!

I think I'd put blocks in front of all 4 wheels and torque a little or put on emergency brakes and try a little torque, brakes and park.

Mr_Shiftright

My car would probably knock my garage down--LOL!

alcan

Don't believe everything you hear on the radio. Engines torque rearward in any forward gear range, except Honda 4 cyl's which rotate counterclockwise.

alcan

GP 3800 rear plugs are pretty straightforward to reach, but if you want more room buy an appropriate length turnbuckle with S bolts and maybe a bit of chain at your local Home Depot. Make sure the heat shields go back on the wires, use dilectric silicone grease in the boots, and consider changing the wires anyway if it's got 70-80K or more. Use ACDelco only or you'll be doing it again.

steine13

Notice I was unspecific, cuz it occurred to me that I don't know which way... so back up against the tree and use reverse. Or not, it's just a suggestion.

I wouldn't worry about denting the bumper.
BTW, today I was driving somewhere with my wife, but in separate cars.. so at the light, I had to ease up until I touched her bumper... which she didn't notice. Then started to push. Just a little. She did notice that.
It was hilarious, trust me.

No idea too dumb to try,
-Mathias.

pgriffin1

How do I replace the dust & pollen filter on my 2002 Honda Odyssey Van? Thanks, Phil Griffin

Mr_Shiftright

Cut and paste and put your question here:

Honda Odyssey Problems and Solution Forum

MrShiftright
Host

jim735

will any heads from any other bmw moter fit my 1988 735i i found a 633 in a yard with a good head

juanitoramos

I have a 88 2.8L V6 S10
I took it to get it smogged and the tech said that the CO levels are too high and it might not pass smog and that the reading was 2.75% when it should be at the limit of 0.82%
Any suggestions to get it to pass smog?

cwon

I have an 85 Trans am with the transmission just rebuilt. It has a 4bbl carb 305 engine. Every morning the car is hard to start and the engine hesitates when it's cold. When I step on the gas, it will not respond right away. It takes a second or so and then it just goes. After the car has run for awhile, the condition gets a little better and the hesitation is shorter. And I can even start the car without stepping on the gas peddle for the rest of the day. But after a night at the garage, it starts all over again in the morning. Can anybody tell me what can be wrong?

Thanks

alcan

Probably the choke isn't coming on. With the engine cold, remove the air filter. The choke plate should be wide open. Open the throttle and the choke plate should close. If not, look for a disconnected link or defective choke coil.

branw

At any given moment wether cold or warm, while driving down the road the speedometer needle will jerk to the right and the engine will stutter. If you don't immediately let off the gas it will die. If it does die, you have to turn the key off before restarting or else it will just turn over until the battery goes dead. This occurs at any speed and it is happening more and more frequently. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? Thanks. Brandon

alcan

Check the speed sensor and it's associated wiring.