Got a Quick, Technical Question?

njlinc

I've had the car for 3 years. Over the past 2 months with the tank as low as a quarter full, various fuel attendants have had problems pumping gas into the tank. Right from the start of the attempt to put fuel in the tank, the nozzle releases every few seconds.

The attendants say the fumes are not venting and causing the nozzle to stop pumping. Can this be so? Any ideas on what the problem could be and how to fix it? Thanks !!

inajoong

I have an 02 Jetta(v4 auto) and sometimes when the car shifts from 1st to 2nd(auto trans) i feel a SMACK in the rear end as if I just got rear ended by another car.

I think it might have something to do with the transmission, but am not sure....

I took it into a dealer and they said to rev the engine to redline once in a while. i did that and it seemed to have solved the problem, but then it came back!!! and the REAL PRBLEM is that my warranty has run out now...

Did anyone else have a similar problem?
What was the solution?

bolivar

A simular problem was resolved in a message on some forum - the gas tank was dropped, a little granddaughter was questioned, and she was the source of several candybars in the gas filler hose.

Why she thought granddad's Cadillac needed a few candy bars wasn't determined.

mtkonold

Hey guys, Ill give you a brief biography on my car. We got the car at 90,000 miles and have yet to replace the distributor or the timing belt. Our mechanic at home told us that the distributor was 'cracked' somehow and would eventually need replacing. Now one day i go to get in my car in it cranks, but it wont turn over. I do the spark test, where i take a plug and put a screwdriver in it and hold it near a piece of grounded metal to see if i cant get an arch, and i get nothing. I was told this will sound mostly like the igniter, so i replaced that today. Upon disassembling the distributor there was oil EVERYWHERE. i mean in the plugs for the wires, just everywhere. I successfully replace the igniter and the exact same thing. do you guys suggest replacing the entire distributor, because that is the plan for tomorrow. any input would be apprecieated.
Thanks, -Matt

bugler

Does anyone have a carb vacum routing diagram for the 87 dodge omni thank you

ozmitsu03

I am looking for a fuel pump wiring diagram for a 1999 ford countour need to run a hot line to the remote ont he fuel pump to get hte car started. wondering which color wire i need to do that with. please let me know if anone has a clue which wires i need to connect thanks.

ghood

i have a 91 lincoln continental and on a recent trip to syracuse, it completely crapped the bed. The car starts up but when i put it in drive it won't budge. When my friends pushed it while i was flooring it, it would catch and slowly start working again, but every time i let the speed hit 0 we'd have to repeat the process all over again. The car also wouldn't even coast down the hill to my house while it was in neutral and finally the steering wheel locked up to top it off. Advice will be greatly appreciated..thanks

mamabear3

We had the same thing happen to our hyundai sonata. Braked for a curve when I came out of curve. Applied gas engine roared and lost control. My dad had to ajust something under the hood. Do you know of any recalls on this. I have a wrecked car and I am not happy. Its a 1999.

alcan

This what you're after?:

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d800d5c9e.gif

alcan

Try this, right lower corner:

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801eb341.gif

timmer23

I am unable to open the hood of my '91 Pontiac Trans AM. When I pull the release handle, I can hear a pop but the hood barely raises. I tried to get my fingers under the hood by the headlights and pull up, but it won't budge. When I push down, I can hear it latch. What can I do to get the hood up?

mikalangelo

My 2001 Ford Escape is idling high regularly. 2000 RPM's is normal. I can leave it in gear in first or second and it will drive itself with no gas application. It is a 4cyl manual 2001 Ford Escape

cj54me

350 chev engine small block, radiator is from ford truck. but I dont think it has enough capacity. anyways jeep used in desert to enjoy wheeling, has elec spal fan 1650 cfm, running 195 fan switch and 180 thermostat.runs 210 and keeps creeping up in temp sitting in hot weather is not good.drove this weekend on freeway to wheeling and temp still goes up even at freeway speeds.I need to get this right, so peace of mind will make me feel better. it was up to 215 at freeway speeds...new water pump radiator roddid out, I can't figure it out...can some one help :sick:

Mr_Shiftright

Overheating at speed most definitely means a WATER circulation problem, not an electric fan or air circulation problem.

qbrozen

an electric fan? Are you sure that's enough? Don't 350s typically have direct crank-driven fans? I'm really not familiar with the cfms typically put out by either electric or mechanical fans, so i'm making a guess based on the info provided as to what you should check out.

only other thing i can think of is possibly having a clog somewhere in the block/head.

Mr_Shiftright

If he's running an automatic transmission, he definitely needs a trans cooler, too.

qbrozen

ah, good catch. If this is done like other jeep/350 conversions I've seen, it most likely has a TH350/400 GM tranny in it. If not properly cooled, that could very well be contributing to the overheating problem.

williepp

The other day my daughter was driving the jeep and the engine started to rev up. The transmission would not run. After I got the jeep home I jacked the rear end up and no matter what gear the transmission was in the tires would spin in either direction.

burdawg

Everyone I know that has done the V8 conversion has put a heavy duty radiator in with at least four rows. Some have even gone bigger, depending on if they are rock crawling or just using the jeep trails.
I run an after market heavy duty radiator in my 94 Wrangler with the stock 4.0 six, and I never have overheating problems, even in the Arizona summer.
You didn't say what the radiator was from, but if you think it's to small that would be the first place I would look.

toruswi

my car starts fine... but after i drive it about 3-5 miles and the engine warms... it'll decide not to maintain speed. then i can put the gas peddle 3/4 the way down to the floor and i wont do anything, but if it put it to the floor it'll downshift and accelerate as if there was nothing wrong till i let off again... what is going on with my car?!? :sick:

p.s. i have just changed the air filter and spark plugs about 200 miles ago..

frostedfog

hey folks. i have a problem and need help diagnosing it and pray i'm wrong with my initial prognosis.

ok, i have a 1992 Saturn SL2. today (11-15-05) my car behaved differently. normally it has a powerloss on take off then builds back quickly as i shift. that's right i have a 5 speed stick. now i have no problems shifting, but i have lost most of the power. first gear is slow power , second is the same, third builds ok as does fourth, but by the time i shift into fifth, even with the accelerator to the floor, i cannot go any faster than 50 mph. normally by this time i'm hitting about 70 mph. i think it's a compression problem, if so do i need to replace the head? other sites i have been to say that there is a head problem in that a defect causes them to crack prematurely. i don't know if this is true. please help. this is my only means of transportation for work and my commute has me driving through a major shipping route for my location.

alcan

The head cracking allows engine oil into the cooling system and coats the inside of the rad overflow bottle with oil. Won't cause a lack of power. Is the check engine light on?

burdawg

Is the clutch slipping? Does the engine rev up but you don't go any faster?

cj54me

ref to my 350 chevy heating up, last weekend drove a freeways speeds, temp went up to 220, at about 2300 rpm, not good, then stopped let it cool and ran at street speeds cooling went down to 190 and stayed there. I am not running auto trans, manual, has a ford radiator with 3 rows...I'm wondering whats up :confuse:

Mr_Shiftright

If it gets hotter the faster you go, you have a coolant circulation problem. The coolant is not exchanging heat fast enough.

You haven't taken the thermostat out have you? HAVE YOU?!!! :surprise:

bolivar

Do you have a shroud around the fan?

If not, you just stir up the air, you don't pull it through the radiator.

bolivar

Fourteen year old car.

Has the fuel filter been changed? This should definitely be the next thing checked.

Has the air filter been changed?

Have the plugs and plug wires been changed?

Mr_Shiftright

Good suggestion but I've read that shroud problems are more for low road speed rather than highway hi-speed problems---the idea is that at 75 mph you have all the air you'll ever need going past the radiator, and if it STILL heats up then the heat is not being exchanged (not enough circulation).

mcgee3

I own a 1991 240 sedan, and when I apply the brakes I almost always hear an annoying and very loud hum coming from the rear. I have no idea what this could be seeing that the rotors are new and so are the brakepads, and this was going on b4 I replaced them.Any ideas? a friend/mechanic told me it might be the emergency brake shoes or pads Thanks for any input its driving me nuts, but I love the car!!!!

bolivar

Yea, you are probably right. Shroud probably isn't a concern at speed.

What about air flow? Is the air going through the radiator? Not around it?

snichols

I own a 2003 Infinity QX4 w/ 90,000 miles. I would really like to know what the recommended water pump maintenance/replacement is? The owners manual does not provide any water pump info. I have looked over the pump and cannot see a "weep" hole in it's housing? Any helpful information I could get would be great.
I also can't be for sure if the car has a timing chain or belt? Again, the owners manual says nothing about timing belt replacement. So I guess it has a chain? Any help would be great. Thank you,Sheldon

dac63

Daughters 92 eclipse died while turning into parking lot. No spark at any plug. replaced distributor(coil pack, shaft sensor, pwr transistor)Has good fuel flow at injector rail, cranks over strong. 12 volts present at distributor connector. all fuses check good. suspect ECM. any clues or help are appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright

I think your car does have this "silent timing chain" which means you don't normally have to replace it. You'd better double check with the dealer but that's my recollection.

Water pump could go a long time and there is usually no set time to replace one. As for maintenance, a coolant flush every few years is probably the best you can do for it.

kkl1

I have a 1998 Honda Prelude whose CD/tuner head unit intermittently lost power for 5-10 seconds several times each day. I had the Honda repair shop go over the electrical system, but they could not find the problem. Three weeks ago the starter began malfunctioning with anemic starts and I had it replaced 2 weeks ago. Interestingly, my CD/tuner head unit has been functioning normally since the starter replacement. I am certainly happy about this, but also curious about the relationship of the malfunctioning starter to the head unit cutting out. Was there indeed a relationship or is this coincidence? Thanks for your opinions.

Ken

390feking

can i saftely use a 130 amp alt. vs standard 95amp alt.

sando

Can't open the door from the inside on the driver's side. It will open from the outside with the key. Has anyone had to attempt to fix this; does it involve removing total inside door panel? I attempted to remove panel, could not pry off handle to roll window up/down. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. 97 lsi geo metro hatchback.

alcan

Yes. The voltage regulator will limit alternator current output to that required by the electrical system.

390feking

Ok Thank You , Does that mean that existing wiring is up to the extra loads from a 130 amp to be short i don't need to upgrade the fuse link or wires? :confuse:

Thank You

Mr_Shiftright

The only thing I can think of is that a dragging starter can consume ENORMOUS amperage and seriously deplete a battery and put a lot of strain on an alternator. Whether or not that dropped the voltage to the CD head enough to affect it, hard to say.

christer1

Hi, can anybody pleace tell me/ check what stuff i need to change/ repair on my car the trouble code are P0410 Secondary air injection, Air injection system malfunction , P1661 Miss firing och P0300 Random multiple.

96 Fleetwood 350 LT1

Best regards

Chris

glitzigirl03

Any time I put the car in reverse I hear a low whining sound, it happens whether or not I am depressing the brake. Any ideas what could be causing this?

copterdr

HELP IS THERE A fix for the front stut top rubber mount mine keep ripping the center bushing out of the rubber and these are getting rather expensive a new mount and strut $250.00

doyin

Ive got a 97 altima which throws this code.It means the ECM and TCU arent communicating.No driveability problems because the TCU and ECM are directing their respective sensors,just not interacting with each other.Checked the connecting wire from ecm to tcu,no breaks but I think there's a connector in between which I havent been able to find.Anybody have any similar issue?

doyin

Had the same thing on my altima.Turned out to be my Throttle position switch.Dont know if you've got anything like that but I changed mine and voila!

cj54me

went to rad shop and had the block flushed and had alot of debris, the back flush radiator that had been recently rodded out. ran jeep and temp still climbing to 210, keeps creeping up. switched back to mechanical fan and removed elec. flow is great, running 165 thermostat, but still goes way beyond that point in temp reading.has a 4 speed 1 ton tranny with granny gear. so dont think its causing heating factor.it has a ford radiator in it because of the space that is very minimal the core is only 16'x15.75 ita a three core, I hear that the newer type fin that is aireated would cool better....and a heavy duty radiator....what ya think :confuse:

dave8697

My 96 Riviera has problem. Started hearing cooling fan come on at startup. It was 17 degrees last week and both fans were running full speed when I started car. I have never added coolant to overflow tank because it has about an inch at the bottom. Since it is winter, I have pulled 60 amp fuse for fans because I read that fan motor bearings will wear out fast. For 1.5 years previous I never recall hearing fan run, even on hottest day of summer when outside temp was 103. Relays seem ok, car has no leaks, car temp guage stays at 195 after warmup.

bolivar

I would try putting a 195degree thermostat back in.

The 165 is probably basically staying open all the time, which may not let the water stay in the radiator long enough to cool down.

Sometimes too much is too much.

Also, 210 is really not that hot. Remember antifreeze 50/50 will boil at about 250 degrees, under pressure. (You do have a radiator cap on this thing, right?). Running at 230 or so should be fine.

user777

just a comment. had a 94 accord whose fans ran constantly with engine off. never had a problem with engine temp. opened the fuse/relay compartment under the hood and experimented. swapped the fan relay for the power window relay (had same part number so i knew same internal configuration) and the fans stayed off after driving. when to autozone and got a replacement fuse for about $24. no problem after.

a little experimentation to rule out a bad relay may be worth your time.

dave8697

The car has 2 fans. I experimented with the relays. There are 2 relays, one for fan #1 and one for fan #2. I took one out and one fan ran full speed and the other ran about 1/4 speed. Then I put that one back in and took out the other relay. The fans switched and the other one ran fast with the first one running slow. So I figure that the relays are acting identical and it is unlikely that they both failed simultaneously, so they must be good. They are identical parts. So I think I can rule out bad relays.

vikingca

Hi
Can anyone tell me how in can test the crank sensor? :confuse: