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The attendants say the fumes are not venting and causing the nozzle to stop pumping. Can this be so? Any ideas on what the problem could be and how to fix it? Thanks !!
I think it might have something to do with the transmission, but am not sure....
I took it into a dealer and they said to rev the engine to redline once in a while. i did that and it seemed to have solved the problem, but then it came back!!! and the REAL PRBLEM is that my warranty has run out now...
Did anyone else have a similar problem?
What was the solution?
Why she thought granddad's Cadillac needed a few candy bars wasn't determined.
Thanks, -Matt
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d800d5c9e.gif
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d801eb341.gif
only other thing i can think of is possibly having a clog somewhere in the block/head.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I run an after market heavy duty radiator in my 94 Wrangler with the stock 4.0 six, and I never have overheating problems, even in the Arizona summer.
You didn't say what the radiator was from, but if you think it's to small that would be the first place I would look.
p.s. i have just changed the air filter and spark plugs about 200 miles ago..
ok, i have a 1992 Saturn SL2. today (11-15-05) my car behaved differently. normally it has a powerloss on take off then builds back quickly as i shift. that's right i have a 5 speed stick. now i have no problems shifting, but i have lost most of the power. first gear is slow power , second is the same, third builds ok as does fourth, but by the time i shift into fifth, even with the accelerator to the floor, i cannot go any faster than 50 mph. normally by this time i'm hitting about 70 mph. i think it's a compression problem, if so do i need to replace the head? other sites i have been to say that there is a head problem in that a defect causes them to crack prematurely. i don't know if this is true. please help. this is my only means of transportation for work and my commute has me driving through a major shipping route for my location.
You haven't taken the thermostat out have you? HAVE YOU?!!! :surprise:
If not, you just stir up the air, you don't pull it through the radiator.
Has the fuel filter been changed? This should definitely be the next thing checked.
Has the air filter been changed?
Have the plugs and plug wires been changed?
What about air flow? Is the air going through the radiator? Not around it?
I also can't be for sure if the car has a timing chain or belt? Again, the owners manual says nothing about timing belt replacement. So I guess it has a chain? Any help would be great. Thank you,Sheldon
Water pump could go a long time and there is usually no set time to replace one. As for maintenance, a coolant flush every few years is probably the best you can do for it.
Ken
Thank You
96 Fleetwood 350 LT1
Best regards
Chris
The 165 is probably basically staying open all the time, which may not let the water stay in the radiator long enough to cool down.
Sometimes too much is too much.
Also, 210 is really not that hot. Remember antifreeze 50/50 will boil at about 250 degrees, under pressure. (You do have a radiator cap on this thing, right?). Running at 230 or so should be fine.
a little experimentation to rule out a bad relay may be worth your time.
Can anyone tell me how in can test the crank sensor? :confuse: